©I|e  i.  B.  Btll  ICtbrarg 


North  C£ar0ltna  g>tatp  Imnpraitg 

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K2 


THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  ON  THE  DATE 
INDICATED  BELOW  AND  IS  SUB- 
JECT TO  AN  OVERDUE  FINE  AS 
POSTED  AT  THE  CIRCULATION 
DESK. 


Making 
Horticulture  Pay 

Experiences  in  Gardening  and 
Fruit  Growing 


Compiled  and  Edited  by 

M.    G. KAINS 

Associate  Editor  A  mtrican  Asricitlturint  Wteklies 


NEW  YORK 

ORANGE  JUDD  COMPANY 
1909 


Copyright,  1909 

Orange  Judd  Company 

New  York 


Printed   in    U.   S.   A. 


■€. 


PREFACE 


THE  prime  object  of  Making  Horticulture  Pay 
is  not  to  teach  the  speciaHst  how  to  make  his 
specialty  profitable ;  he  knows  that  already.  Nor  is 
the  principal  aim  to  teach  mere  money  making; 
that  has  long  been  over-emphasized  on  every  hand, 
with  the  result  that  people  are  so  attracted  by  the 
glitter  of  gold  that  they  lose  sight  of  the  really 
profitable  features  of  the  thing  in  hand,  whether 
that  be  gardening,  orcharding,  or  general  business. 

To  make  horticulture  pay  in  the  largest  sense  is 
to  realize  and  establish  an  improved  mode  of  liv- 
ing, a  better  appreciation  of  what  is  good  in  life,  a 
deeper  sympathy  and  understanding  of  the  universe 
as  typified  by  cultivated  plants.  Hence  the  dom- 
inant idea  of  this  book  is  to  encourage  the  average 
farmer  and  householder  to  emancipate  himself  and 
his  family  at  least  a  little  from  the  routine  still  too 
common  in  farm  living,  to  make  some  of  the  barren 
spots  fruitful,  to  eliminate  some  of  the  drudgeries 
(work  for  wage  is  drudgery,  but  work  for  better 
living  is  play),  and  by  example  rather  than  precept 
to  spread  the  good  news  that  the  men  and  women 
whose  farms  include  orchards  and  gardens  are  more 
than  landlords  and  landladies  of  dirty  acres:  they 
are  the  real  lords  and  ladies  of  the  land. 

In  this  aim  the  editor  has  striven  in  the  follow- 
ing pages  to  present  experiences  of  actual  farmers 

V 

j/4-  PROPERTY  OF 

A.  A.  E.  coi_i_e:qE 


yi  PREFACE 

rather  than  of  specialists,  and  especially  experiences 
of  women,  because  on  so  many  farms  the  women 
are  the  gardeners  and  small  fruit  growers,  but  are 
usually  so  modest  that  it  is  hard  to  induce  them  to 
write.  These  experiences  have  been  gathered  from 
very  many  states  so  as  to  show  the  wide  territory 
over  which  fruit  and  vegetable  growing  is  being 
made  profitable.  Since  the  money  standard  is  the 
one  by  which  the  majority  of  people  judge  of  profit, 
figures  have  been  presented  wherever  reliable  ones 
could  be  procured.  Some  of  these  have  been  sup- 
plied by  market  gardeners  and  fruit  growers,  but 
preference,  where  there  was  a  choice  has  been 
given  to  "  home  figures." 


Table  of  Contents 


Chapter  I. 


Introduction 


Chapter  II. 
Garden  Soils  and  Their  Care   - 

Chapter  III. 
Fertilizers  and  Fertilizing         -        -:i 

Chapter  IV. 
Water  and  Its  Control      -         -         - 


Chapter  V. 
Function  of  Cultivation   - 

Chapter  VI 
Fruit  Plantations  and  Their  Care 

Chapter  VII. 
Orchard  Fruits         -         -         - 

Chapter  VIII. 
Small  Fruits     -         -         -         - 

Chapter  IX. 
The  Vegetable  Garden     - 

Chapter  X. 
Spraying  -        -        - 

Chapter  XI. 
Ornamentals 


Page 
1 

5 

9 

17 

22 

25 

40 

86 

121 

239 

247 


¥ii 


List  of  Illustrations 


PAGE 

A  Promise  of  Prosperity   ....      Frontispiece 

Weeders  and  Cultivators 7 

Combination  Hand  Cultivator  and  Drill     .      .        15 

Styles  of  Harrows 20 

Roller 23 

Planker 23 

Planker 24 

Layering 25 

Mallet  Cuttings 26 

Root   Cutting 26 

Root   Cutting 27 

Cutting  Bed  Flower  Pot 27 

Eye  Cutting 27 

Marker  and  Flat 28 

Budding  Knife 28 

Styles  of  Grafting 29 

Tree  Setting  Devices 40 

Folding  Ladder 51 

Box  Packing  Apples  for  Fancy  Trade     .       Halftone 

Barrel   Presses 55 

Fruit  Harvesting  Ladders 70 

Bartlett,  the  Pear  for  the  Millions      .      .       Halftone 

Pruning  Young  Peach 73 

Fruit  Gathering   Ladders yy 

Oregon  Silver  Prune  for  Golden  Profits       Halftone 

Fruit  Ladder 81 

Plan  of  Farm  Garden  and  Small  Fruits     .      .       87 

Blackberries  Grow   Naturally 91 

Field  of  Lucretia  Dewberries       .      .      .       Halftone 

Four  Years  in  Grape  Training 100 

viii 


LIST  OF   ILLUSTRATIONS  IX 

PAGE 

Grape  Trained  Over  Window 102 

Grape  Trellis  and  Vines 103 

Holding  Raspberry  Wires  Tight     ....  105 

Blackcaps  Pruned 106 

Post  for  Raspberry  Vines 107 

Pruning   Raspberries 108 

Yoke  for  Toting  Berries ill 

Strawberry    Pruning II2 

Spades 122 

Garden  Fork 122 

Dibbles  and  Trowels .  124 

Wheelbarrow 126 

Barrel  Truck 127 

Weeders         130 

Hotbed  Yard 142 

Hotbed 144 

Row  Marker 146 

Making  Straight  Rows 146 

Celebrated  Snowball  Cauliflower     .      .       Halftone 
A  Wealth  of  Blessings  for  Which  to  be  Thankful 

Halftone 

Potted  Tomato  Plant 233 

Tomato  Trellis 235 

Apple  Calyces 240 

Apparatus  for  Combating  Plant  Foes    .      .      .  242 

Home   Greenhouse 248 

Ventilator  for  Greenhouse 251 

Home   Greenhouse 255 

Cellarway  Greenhouse 256 

Permanent  Plant  Pit  and  Hotbed     ....  258 


List  of  Contributors 


Page 

Adams,  E.  E.,  Ontario 136 

Agriculturist,     American,      New 

York ISO 

Allen.  C.  L.,  New  York 194,  259 

Allen,  W.  F.,  Maryland 172 

Ballou,  Prof.  F.  H.,  Ohio 79,  81 

Black,  Charles,  New  Jersey.  .141,  199 

Blackwell,  Eli,  New  Jersey 78 

Blackwell,  S.  J.,  New  Jersey 97 

Broadway,  J.  W.,  New  Jersey.  .  .  156 

Brown,  A.  N.,  Delaware 97 

Brown,  C.  G.,  Delaware 161 

Brown,  Theodore,  New  Jersey.  .  173 

Browning,  Mrs.  C,  Rhode  Island  236 

Burke,  W.  H.,  Michigan 112 

Burkett,  Prof.  C.  W.,  New  York.  5 

Bym,  W.  W.,  Maryland 169 

Carter,  J.  E.,  Delaware 101 

Clifford,  W.  G.,  Illinois 56 

Colby,  H.  E.,  Iowa 197 

Collins.  D.  L..  New  York 189 

Coombs,   F.,  Massachusetts 76 

Cooper,  W.  A.,  Ohio 74 

Cordley,  Prof.  A.  B.,  Oregon 245 

Crawford,   Matthew,  Ohio 120 

Dallinga,  R.  J.,  Ohio 146 

Davis,  Prof.  V.  H.,  Ohio,  33,  126,  187 

Dawson,  W.  G.,  Maryland 151 

Eastman,  A.  A.,  Maine 80 

Editor,  New  York 220 

Emerson.    Pennel,    Delaware....  97 

Fall  Brook  Farms,  New  York.  .  .  46 

Famsworth.  W.  W.,  Ohio 118 

Fischer,  L.  P.,  New  Hampshire.  .  177 

Fraser.  Prof.  Samuel,  New  York  163 

Funk,  Dr.  J.  H.,  Pennsylvania.  .  72 

Gano,  W.  G.,  Missouri 74 

Gebhard,    Benton,    Michigan....  40 

Harrison.   Orlando,   Maryland.  .  .  30 

Headden,  Dr.,  Colorado 246 

Henderson,  Peter,  New  York.  .  .  206 

Hepworth,  J.  A..  New  York.  ...  93 

Homa.  J.  E..  New  Jersey 191 

Howard,  Prof.  W.  L.,  Missouri.  .  114 

Howelsen.    Sivert,    Illinois 176 

Hubbard.   G.    M.,   Massachusetts  210 

Hunt.    H 273 

Hunt,  L..  Vermont 45 

Huth.   Alexander.   Massachusetts  186 

Irvine.   W.  A..   Missouri 52 

Jeffers.  A.,  Virginia 147 

Johnson,   L.   R..   Missouri.  ..  .78.  110 

Johnson,  Mrs.  Mary.  Indiana.  .  .  .  103 

Jones,    Laura,    Kentucky 265 

Jones.  Willard,  New  York 211 

Kains,  M.  G..  New  York 168,  220 

Kelsey,  D.  S..  Connecticut. .  156,  219 


Page 
Kerr,  J.  W.,  Maryland 83 

Kiner,  Francis  C,  Illinois 232 

Kuntz,    Mrs.    Preston,    Pennsyl- 
vania      131 

Lutes,  T.  B..  New  Jersey 152 

McAllister,   Mrs.   Zacheus,  Maine     86 

McLeran.  F.  B.,  Minnesota 149 

Meller,  C.  L..  Wisconsin 267 

Miller,   Frank  S.,  Ohio 208 

Miller.  Wm.  F.,  New  Jersey 202 

Morris,  Dr.  R.  T..  New  York 38 

Munger,  M.  H.,  New  York 109 

Murray,  Mrs.  E.  B 271 

Ormsbee.  C.  O..  Vermont 185 

Orsburn,  J.  G.,  Kentucky 214 

Overhiser,   B.   B 184 

Pomerov,  A.  C,  New  York 68 

Powell,  George  T.,  New  York,  58,     60 

Powell.  Solan  P.,  Ohio 184 

Price,  Henry,  Ohio.  . 209 

Rennie,   Joseph.   Illinois 18 

Richardson,  C.  J.,  Ohio 192 

Riddle.  W.  H..  Maryland 22 

Ritterskamp,  W.  J.,  Indiana.  . .  .    233 
Roberts,  Horace,  New  Jersey.  .  .      65 

Ross,  A.  B.,  Pennsylvania 121 

Rushing.  R.  B..  Illinois 117 

Scoon,  C.  K.,  New  York 63 

Seal.  L.  C.  Indiana 153.  212 

Sharpe.  Dr.  M.  R.,  Maine 139 

Sheppard.  Cora  J..  New  Jersey.  .    155 
Smith,  Irving  C,  Wisconsin....    179 

Snyder,  Walter,  Maryland 53 

Stetzer,  B.  H.,  New  Jersey 214 

Stewart,  Prof.  F.  C.  New  York.  .    244 
Strange,  S.  H.,  North  Carolina.  .      94 

Strubler,  Phil,  Illinois 96 

Suter,  W.  F.,  Pennsylvania 226 

Sutheriand,  H.  A.,  New  York.  . .    160 

Taft,  Prof.  L.  R.,  Michigan 239 

Taylor,  John  H..  New  Jersey 189 

Thayer,  I.  A..  Pennsylvania.  .  .  .    120 
Thomas,  J.  F.,  Pennsylvania.  ...    118 

Tong,  George,  Minnesota 205 

Umoselle,  E.  A.,  New  Jersey.  .  .  .    107 

Vail.  John  E.,  Iowa 207,  237 

Voorhees.  Dr.  E.  B..  New  Jersey       9 

Wall.  T.  L.,  Pennsylvania 222 

Warner,  S.  H.,  Massachusetts.  .  .    116 
Warren.  Prof.  G.  H..  New  York     36 

Wells,  Frank  S.,  Michigan 184 

Whitten,  Prof.  J.  C,  Missouri.  .  .    178 

Willard.  S.  D.,  New  York 62 

Williams,    Cora   B 269 

Woodward,  Mrs.  H.  M.,  Illinois  133 
Young,  John,  New  York 160 


CHAPTER  I 
Introduction 

Ef  I  had  f  git  rid  2iv  a  ^rees  spot  onto  my  karpit  or  a  gar' 
ding  spot  onto  my  far?n,  i  ud  tackel  the  grees  spot. 

— Joe  Moggason, 

If  one  really  desires  to  succeed  in  horticulture, 
nothing  can  stop  him.  The  little  failures  that  may- 
appear  from  time  to  time  with  various  plants,  and  in 
different  seasons,  always  lead  to  better  directed  ef- 
forts, and  consequently  better  success,  provided  the 
desire  to  have  a  garden  is  genuine.  Supposing  some 
kinds  continue  to  fail  even  under  the  best  of  treat- 
ment, one  is  not  obliged  to  give  up.  There  are  other 
varieties  in  abundance  and  the  right  ones  are  sure 
to  appear  if  one  is  persistent. 

What  matter  if  one  has  not  the  "  rich  garden 
loam,"  the  "  southern  exposure,"  and  the  other 
factors  that  writers  on  horticulture  emphasize  so 
often?  They  are  all  secondary  to  the  desire  to 
have  gardens  and  orchards.  With  the  desire,  one 
can  succeed  in  spite  of  their  absence.  Why,  up  in 
Canada  I  had  a  garden,  a  good  garden,  one  whose 
fruits,  flowers,  and  vegetables  paid  me  well,  on  a 
clay  soil  heavy  and  sticky  enough  to  make  into 
brick.  In  Michigan  I  had  another  good  one  on 
such  light  sand  that  I  was  almost  obliged  to  sit 
on  it  to  prevent  its  being  blown  away  when  it  was 
dry,  which  it  was  most  of  the  time.  In  the  District 
of  Columbia  I  had  one  on  mud  flats  pumped  up 
from  the  bottom  of  the  Potomac  river  to  fill  a 
marsh.  This  land  was  so  hard  that  when  first 
plowed  the  three-horse  team  turned  it  up  in  clods 


rnonRTT  library 
N.  C.  State  CoUqfi 


2  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

as  big  as  my  body,  and  it  was  so  full  of  poke  and 
bindweed  that  three  years  were  needed  to  get  the 
upper  hand.  But  I  had  my  garden — Uncle  Sam's 
garden,  rather,  this  one.  Again,  in  New  York 
state  I  have  had  gardens  on  such  steep  and  stony 
land  that  without  very  careful  handling  the  top  soil 
would  journey  off  to  sea  whenever  there  was  a 
rain,  and  leave  nothing  but  a  stone  quarry  behind, 
a  thing  that  occurred  in  spots  more  than  once. 

My  plantations  have  ranged  in  size  from  a  tenth 
of  an  acre  to  30  acres,  but  for  downright  profit  the 
smaller  ones  have  paid  more  to  the  square  foot  in 
actual  money,  not  to  mention  joy  and  good  living, 
than  the  big  ones  ever  did. 

If  one  really  desires  to  have  fruit,  vegetables, 
flowers,  and  attractive  home  grounds,  neither  poor 
soil,  nor  lack  of  time,  nor  hillsides,  not  stones — 
nothing  can  stop  him.     He'll  have  it. 

THE  FARMER'S  OPPORTUNITY 

It  is  the  farmers'  and  village  residents'  privilege 
to  enjoy  abundance  of  the  best  fruit  and  vegetables, 
but  how  many  realize  it?  Taking  the  country  as  a 
whole,  very  few.  Why?  Is  it  because  of  the  cost? 
Surely  not.  A  first-class  orchard  and  berry  patch 
big  enough  to  supply  any  family  with  ample  fresh 
and  canned  fruit  for  the  year  can  be  bought  and 
planted  for  $10  to  $20,  and  the  annual  cost  of  care 
should  not  exceed  20  per  cent  of  the  first  cost.  Five 
dollars'  worth  of  choice  vegetable  seeds,  properly 
planted  and  cared  for,  will  yield  a  wealth  and 
variety  of  food  that  cannot  be  bought  from  the 
huckster  for  twenty  times  that  amount.  They  will, 
moreover,  be  fresh  and  ready  when  wanted,  which 
purchased  vegetables  not  always  are.    And  as  to 


INTRODUCTION  3 

flowers  and  ornamental  shrubs  and  trees,  these  can 
be  largely  found  in  the  woods  and  fence  rows. 
They  are  often  far  better  than  the  costly  things 
offered  for  sale. 

The  farmer  who  has  no  orchard  and  no  garden 
must  either  have  a  bare  table  or  buy  what  he  needs. 
To  do  either  is  expensive.  Fruit  and  vegetables 
cost  far  less  than  flour  and  meat.  If  produced  on 
the  place,  they  cost  still  less  than  if  bought  from 
the  vendor.  Hence  the  more  abundant  the  home 
supply,  the  smaller  the  butchers'  and  grocers'  bills. 
From  this  it  is  evident  that  doing  without  garden 
and  orchard  is  false  economy,  because  one  pays  out 
more  money  to  get  less  than  if  he  used  a  fraction  of 
the  amount  as  a  garden  and  orchard  investment.  He 
is  living  expensively,  but  by  no  means  luxuriously; 
whereas  garden  and  orchard  reverse  the  case  and 
enable  him  to  live  luxuriously,  with  economy. 

FARM  VALUE  INCREASED 

There  are  more  ways  to  make  horticulture  pay 
than  by  growing  a  big  acreage  of  some  fruit  or 
vegetable  crops  and  sending  the  produce  to  market. 
Special  emphasis  is  laid  on  this  home  phase  of  hor- 
ticulture, because  it  is  least  appreciated.  A  well- 
kept  garden  and  orchard  make  every  farm  worth 
more  than  the  same  farm  would  be  without  them. 
Each  is  recognized  as  a  permanent  asset  far  more 
valuable  than  the  original  cost  plus  the  annual  cost 
of  care.  Each  yields  an  average  annual  revenue 
with  less  yearly  attention  than  any  equal  area  on 
the  farm.  Hence  the  increased  value  of  the  place. 
But  more  important  is  the  fact  that  well-chosen 
shade  trees,  ornamental  vines  and  shrubs  and  hardy 
perennial    flowers,    tastefully    arranged    about    the 


4  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

place,  make  a  home  instead  of  a  group  of  barns  and 
houses,  big  and  little.  A  farm  with  a  home  on  it 
has  an  increased  value  far  in  excess  of  the  cost  of 
the  gardens  and  grounds  that  make  it  a  home. 

From  such  a  home  the  rising  generation  is  slower 
to  depart  than  from  the  farm  where  they  are  ab- 
sent, and  to  it  those  who  do  leave  will  return  more 
gladly  than  to  the  bleak  acres  void  of  either.  There- 
fore, if  it  be  true  that  human  love  is  reached  by  the 
highway  to  the  stomach,  and  that  digestion  is  better 
where  one  is  contented  and  happy,  it  certainly  fol- 
lows that  love  of  home  will  rest  upon  a  far  more 
secure  footing  where  gardens  and  orchards  are  part 
of  the  farm  equipment  than  where  they  are  not. 
So  the  farmer  who  has  both  is  the  man  who  is  not 
only  enjoying  life  as  he  goes  along;  but  is  fostering 
a  love  of  home,  which  is  the  bulwark  of  nations. 

There  is  still  another  way  in  which  horticulture 
will  pay,  and  that  is  in  the  opportunity  it  affords 
to  help  one's  neighbors.  At  first  this  may  seem  to 
be  limited  to  giving  away  a  few  vegetables,  fruits, 
and  flowers,  or  inviting  friends  to  enjoy  these  lux- 
uries on  the  place  or  at  the  home  table.  But  soon 
these  hospitalities  do  their  gentle  work  and  one 
neighbor  after  another  will  begin  to  slick  up  his 
place  a  bit  and  plant  an  orchard  and  a  vegetable 
garden,  and,  perhaps,  a  little  later,  set  out  some 
ornamentals.  Thus  the  whole  community  will  get 
the  benefit  of  one  good  example.  Who  can  estimate 
the  value  to  the  nation  as  this  influence  extends? 
The  way  to  estimate  how  horticulture  pays  is  far 
beyond  any  little  dollars  and  cents  measure,  though 
this  must  not  be  dropped  from  view. 


CHAPTER  II 
SoOs  and  Their  Care 

//  ts  more  profitable  to  use  soil  for  gardening  than  for  writing 
autographs  on  newly  scrubbed  floors. — Btick  Mc  Crawley. 

There  is  no  set  standard  for  measuring  the  qual- 
ities or  classifying  the  merits  of  soils.  Some  soils 
are  naturally  fit  for  fruits  and  vegetables,  others 
have  to  be  bolstered  up  and  coaxed  and  others  are 
altogether  out  of  garden  and  orchard  classes.  These 
last  are  few.  They  are  too  insignificant  to  serve 
as  drawbacks.  On  every  farm  a  garden  patch  and 
a  fruit  plantation  site  can  be  found.  If  not  already 
serviceable,  it  can  be  made  so.  Good  drainage, 
good  tillage,  an  abundance  of  manure  and  high- 
grade  fertilizers  will  do  wonders.  Stubborn  the 
soil  may  be,  but  by  proper  handling  in  time  the 
most  stubborn  soil  will  respond.  And  sour  or  hard 
or  light  or  stiff,  these  five  will  prove  a  general 
panacea  for  most  troubles  and  difficulties.  In  fact, 
every  bit  of  knowledge  gained  about  soils  empha- 
sizes only  the  more  the  healing  effect  of  tillage  and 
humus  in  soil  difficulties. 

"The  real  secret  of  tillage,"  writes  Prof.  C.  W. 
Burkett,  "  lies  in  the  depth  that  the  soil  body  is 
stirred.  Shallow  spading  or  plowing  will  not  do 
the  stunt.  One  must  have  a  deep  body  of  soil,  lo 
to  15  inches,  and  this  must  be  so  well  worked  that 
no  clods  will  be  found  anywhere.  Particularly  not 
down  below,  because  clods  resting  there,  although 
covered  up,  will  interfere  with  air  and  water  cir- 
culation and  with  the  spread  of  the  roots.    A  strict 

6 


6  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

observance  of  these  facts  will  aid  in  securing  quick 
growth  and  a  heavy  yield. 

"  The  soil  all  the  way  down  should  be  fine, 
mellow,  and  yet  compact.  It  should  be  healthy, 
rich  looking,  and  in  good  heart.  This  condition  is 
obtained  when  lime  has  been  added  to  sweeten  the 
soil  and  to  keep  it  sweet  when  vegetables  and 
stable  manure  are  liberally  applied  to  loosen  and 
liven  up,  and  when  fertilizers  are  injected  to  stim- 
ulate growth  and  to  keep  the  soil  abundantly  sup- 
plied with  immediately  available  plant  food. 

"  After  getting  the  garden  going  change  the  crops 
around.  Do  not  grow  the  same  crop  year  after 
year  in  the  same  spot.  Garden  crops  rebel  against 
this  hardship  just  as  do  field  crops.  Their  roots 
like  change;  they  enjoy  variety  just  as  do  live, 
active  men  and  women.  And  there  are  good  rea- 
sons for  this  change.  Plants  differ  in  their  tastes. 
Grown  in  the  same  place  for  some  years  they  find 
the  soil  stale ;  they  grow  tired  of  it.  Potatoes  do  well 
following  peas  and  beans ;  melons  after  potatoes, 
and  cabbage  and  melons  after  turnips  and  corn. 
Change  the  little  spots,  rotate  them  about,  first 
here,  then  there,  then  elsewhere.  It  all  pays,  be- 
cause the  change  is  helpful  to  the  crop. 

TECHNIQUE  OF  HANDLING  SOILS 

"  Try  to  do  the  soil  work  at  just  the  right  time. 
Fall  and  winter  plowing  are  very  helpful.  The 
clods  are  pounded  and  broken  down  by  the  hard 
frost  that  puts  the  soil  in  far  better  physical  con- 
dition than  would  be  possible  by  spring  plowing. 
As  a  rule,  too,  one  wishes  to  get  certain  garden 
crops  started  early.  When  tillage  is  done  while 
the  ground  is  still  wet,  the  land  is  injured,  maybe 


SOILS   AND   THEIR   CARE  7 

beyond  help  for  an  entire  season.  Especially  is 
this  the  case  when  clay  is  more  or  less  prominent 
in  the  make-up  of  the  soil. 

"  But  this  difficulty  is  not  presented  when  fall 
or  winter  plowing  has  been  resorted  to.  The  sur- 
face or  top  soil  has  been  harrowed  and  pulverized 
by  frost,  the  seed  bed  is  aired  and  dried  for  early 


WEEDERS  AND   CULTIVATORS 

1,  Triangular  Weeder;  2,  Spring-tooth  Weeder;  3,  Single- 
row  Cultivator;  4,  Double-row  Cultivator;  5,  Single-row 
Straddle  Cultivator. 


working,  and  the  storage  bed  beneath  has  been 
filled,  thus  providing  for  a  good  moisture  supply. 
Many  seeds  may  be  planted  early,  much  earlier 
than  would  be  possible  if  plowing  is  postponed  until 
spring. 

"  Stable  manure,  when  employed  in  garden  mak- 
ing, should  be  added  in  fall  and  winter  and  not  in 
the  spring.  This  allows  thorough  decay  and  the 
residue    is   better    incorporated    in    the    soil.     The 


8  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

earth,  too,  compacts  better,  capillarity  is  improved 
and  better  heart  is  secured.  These  things  mean 
much  in  handling  the  garden  and  the  orchard  with 
ease  and  satisfaction. 

"  It  is  understood,  of  course,  that  no  neglect  will 
be  shown  in  preparing  the  seed  bed.  The  closest 
observance  will  be  given  to  all  details  of  fining, 
pulverizing,  leveling,  and  even  smoothing  the  sur- 
face earth.  And  since  the  soil  is  to  be  so  full  of 
rich  humus  material,  every  precaution  at  seeding 
will  be  taken  to  have  the  garden  seed  covered  just 
right  and  the  soil  all  about  pressed  or  compacted. 
Shrewd  gardeners  use  a  board  or  the  foot  for  this 
purpose.  Such  are  the  final  touches  to  complete 
the  work." 


CHAPTER  III 

Fertilizers  and  Fertilizing 

Most  plants  thrive  best  on  three-coursg  meals:  potash,  phos- 
phoric acid,  and  nitrogen. — All  Authorities. 

In  gardening  two  factors  are  essential :  First,  a 
soil  that  is  capable  of  absorbing  and  holding  water 
without  being  so  compact  and  tight  as  to  prevent 
free  movement  of  water  in  all  directions,  and, 
second,  plant  food.  "  Probably  a  typical  garden 
soil  would  be  a  sandy  loam,"  writes  Dr.  E.  B. 
Voorhees,  director  of  the  New  Jersey  Experiment 
Station.  "  This  kind,  however,  would  be  largely 
regarded  as  a  good  place  for  the  plants  to  grow, 
rather  than  as  a  source  of  the  food  required.  Hence 
the  second  factor,  an  abundant  supply  of  all  kinds 
and  forms  of  plant  food  needed. 

"  This  latter  may  be  accomplished  by  the  use  of 
the  manures,  preferably  well  rotted,  which  contain 
plant  food  in  more  or  less  soluble  forms,  but  which 
possess,  in  addition,  decaying  vegetable  matter, 
so  important  in  contributing  to  the  physical 
character  of  soils,  more  especially  in  the  matter  of 
holding  moisture.  Hence,  any  soil  well  adapted 
naturally  for  gardening  should  either  be  heavily 
manured  or  should  have  been  subjected  to  green 
manuring  for  a  sufficient  period  of  time  to  build  it 
up  in  vegetable  matter. 

"  Owing  to  the  cost,  both  in  money  and  labor,  of 
supplying  the  food  requirements  through  the  use 
of  manures  only,  nowadays  resort  is  made  to  com- 
mercial fertilizers.     These  not  only  supply  the  total 


10  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

food,  but  are  capable  of  supplying  it  in  such  forms 
as  to  enable  the  plants  to  absorb  it  at  once.  That 
is,  there  is  no  necessity  for  any  delay,  in  order  that 
the  plant  food  constituents  themselves  may  be  made 
available. 

"  Fertilizers  are,  therefore,  capable  of  supplying 
the  needed  requirements  when  other  conditions  are 
favorable  and  may  be  grouped  into  three  classes, 
i.  e.,  general,  specific,  and  basic.  That  is,  a  general 
formula  would  be  one  that  is  not  made  for  any 
specific  crop,  but  which  contains  both  soluble  and 
insoluble  forms,  with  the  idea  of  building  up  the 
soil  in  the  constituents,  rather  than  meeting  the 
special  requirements  of  any  one  crop. 

GENERAL   FERTILIZER    FORMULAS 

"  The  specific  formulas  are  those  which  are  made 
up  for  the  purpose  of  meeting  a  particular  need  of 
the  crop,  at  a  particular  time,  and  basic  formulas 
may  be  regarded  as  those  which  contain  large  quan- 
tities of  all  of  the  best  forms  of  plant  food.  They 
are  to  be  used  as  a  base  for  supplying  garden  crops 
with  their  general  needs,  with  the  idea  that  amend- 
ments may  be  made  of  nitrogen,  or  of  other  con- 
stituents, as  the  conditions  seem  to  require.  A 
general  formula,  for  example,  may  be  made  up  of  a 
mixture  of,  say: 

Ground  bone   250  lbs. 

Acid  phosphate 500  lbs. 

Muriate  of  potash 250  lbs. 

"  This  will  supply,  not  large  quantities  of  nitro- 
gen, but  considerable  of  the  minerals,  and  so  fortify 
the  soil  in  this  respect.  It  should  be  applied  at  the 
rate  of  500  to  i.ooo  pounds  an  acre,  depending  upon 
conditions. 


FERTILIZERS  AND  FERTILIZING  II 


« 


In  gardening,  the  object  is,  as  a  rule,  not  only 
to  obtain  a  large  crop,  but  to  have  it  ready  as  early 
as  possible.  Hence,  as  a  rule,  soil  supplies  of  plant 
food  are  disregarded  and  formulas  are  made  up  and 
used,  containing  large  proportions  of  all  of  the  con- 
stituents and  in  immediately  available  forms,  be- 
cause the  purpose  is  not  only  to  feed  the  plant,  but 
to  see  to  it  that  such  an  abundance  of  available  food 
is  present  that  under  even  slightly  adverse  condi- 
tions the  plants  may  not  suffer.  That  is,  being  in  a 
soluble  form,  if  dry  weather  comes,  so  long  as  there 
is  any  moisture  in  the  soil,  these  soluble  forms  will 
be  capable  of  feeding  the  plant. 

"A  good  basic  formula  for  such  garden  crops  as 
asparagus,  cucumbers,  early  tomatoes,  onions, 
cabbage,  cauliflower,  celery,  eggplants,  melons, 
peppers,  squashes,  etc.,  may  consist  of: 

Nitrate  of  soda loo  lbs. 

Sulphate  of  ammonia...  loolbs. 

Dried  blood 150  lbs. 

Ground  bone  100  lbs. 

Acid  phosphate 450  lbs. 

Muriate  of  potash 150  lbs. 

"A  mixture  of  these  materials  of  standard  quality 
would  show  an  average  composition  of  5.5  per  cent 
nitrogen,  6  per  cent  '  available '  phosphoric  acid, 
7.5  per  cent  total  phosphoric  acid,  and  7.5  per  cent 
potash. 

TOP  DRESSINGS 

"  In  many  cases  it  might  be  necessary  during  the 
growing  season,  particularly  in  the  case  of  such 
crops  as  early  beets,  early  cabbage,  melons,  and 
celery,  to  make  additional  dressings  of  nitrate  of 


12  MAKING   HORTICULTURE  PAY 

soda,  preferably  in  fractional  applications  of,  say, 
100  pounds  each.  That  is,  the  early  beets,  after 
transplanting  and  being  properly  set,  should  receive 
a  top  dressing  of  loo  pounds  of  nitrate  of  soda 
every  ten  days  until  300  pounds  has  been  applied, 
in  addition  to  800  to  1,000  pounds  an  acre  of  this 
formula.  The  object  of  this  being  not  only  to  give 
the  plant  what  it  needs  at  the  time  it  needs  it,  but 
to  guarantee  the  fullest  use  of  this  substance,  which 
is  so  soluble  that,  if  applied  early  in  the  season,  a 
large  proportion  may  be  lost  by  washing  out  of  the 
soil. 

"  The  same  is  true  of  celery,  which  is  not  only 
greatly  improved  in  quality  when  conditions  are 
made  favorable  for  rapid  and  continuous  growth, 
but  is  also  largely  increased  in  yield.  As  high  as 
400  pounds  of  nitrate  of  soda,  applied  as  above 
stated,  in  addition  to  the  application  of  the  basic 
formula,  has  proved  most   profitable. 

"  The  application  of  these  concentrated  fertiliz- 
ers, more  especially  the  dressing  made  after  the 
plants  are  growing,  should  be  carefully  made,  so  as 
not  to  injure  the  young  and  tender  vegetation.  The 
fertilizer  should  not  be  scattered  broadcast  over 
the  plants  when  the  foliage  is  wet,  but  rather  ap- 
plied along  or  between  the  rows,  and  the  land 
immediately  cultivated. 

"  A  good  plan  to  follow  is  to  apply  the  general 
fertilizer  broadcast  as  soon  as  the  land  is  plowed, 
and  then  worked  in  during  the  subsequent  cultiva- 
tion. A  part  of  the  special  or  basic  formula  may 
then  be  applied  in  the  row,  and  preferably  lightly 
covered  with  soil  before  setting  the  plants  or  seed- 
ing, and  the  fractional  applications  of  nitrate, 
ammonia,  or  acid  phosphate  applied  as  before  out- 
lined.    For  most  garden  crops  there  is  little  danger 


FERTILIZERS   AND   FERTILIZING  1 3 

of  using  too  much,  provided  the  soils  are  in  good 
condition,  the  cultivation  good  and  the  proportions 
of  the  constituents  such  as  to  provide  an  abundance 
of  minerals  in  available  forms." 

LIME  OR  LIMESTONE 

Lime  is  applied  to  the  soil  mainly  to  make  heavy 
soils  lighter,  to  make  sour  soils  sweet,  to  make 
certain  mineral  compounds  soluble  so  plants  can 
utilize  them,  and  to  act  upon  the  organic  matter  and 
make  it  release  plant  food. 

As  to  what  form  lime  shall  be  applied  in,  J.  C.  M. 
Johnson  of  Lawrence  county,  Pennsylvania,  writes : 
*'I  am  confronted  with  the  problem  of  applying  lime 
to  my  soil,  either  in  the  form  of  ground  limestone  or 
of  burnt  lime.  I  have  worked  out  the  solution  for 
the  conditions  on  my  own  farm,  where  I  can  buy 
burnt  lime  at  an  adjoining  farm  at  $2.50  a  ton. 
I  must  import  powdered  limestone  from  Ohio,  pay- 
ing the  heavy  railroad  freight  of  $1.60  a  ton.  If  I 
lived  near  the  works  in  Ohio  and  could  haul  the 
powder  to  my  farm,  the  case  might  be  different; 
or,  if  I  lived  near  the  south  Illinois  penitentiary  at 
Maynard,  I  could  buy  powder  at  60  cents  a  ton. 

"  The  whole  question  is  a  chemical  one.  Its 
solution  depends  upon  the  quantity  of  the  active 
lime  that  I  would  get  in  a  ton.  Limestone,  or  cal- 
cium carbonate,  is  composed  in  the  proportion  of 
40  pounds  of  calcium  with  12  of  carbon  and  48  of 
oxygen.  By  burning  the  stone,  44  pounds  of  carbon 
dioxide  are  driven  off.  That  is,  all  the  carbon  and 
part  of  the  oxygen  are  forced  out  by  heat.  The  56 
pounds  of  quick  or  burnt  lime  left  is  called  calcium 
oxide.  By  adding  18  pounds  of  water  to  the  56 
pounds  of  burnt  lime  we  get  74  pounds  of  slaked 


14  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

lime,  or  calcium  hydroxide.  Thus,  lOO  pounds  of 
limestone,  or  56  of  burnt  lime,  or  74  of  slaked  lime, 
contain  the  same  amount  of  calcium,  which  is  the 
valuable  part  in  either  of  the  forms  of  lime  men- 
tioned. 

"  Which  shall  we  use  on  our  land — the  ground 
limestone,  the  burnt  lime,  or  the  slaked  lime?  As 
each  form  contains  the  same  valuable  element, 
calcium,  the  question  is  evidently  one  of  cost.  In 
order  to  answer  this,  we  must  ask  how  much 
ground  limestone  is  equal  to  100  pounds  of  burnt 
lime.  If  burnt  lime  is  worth $2.50  a  ton,  and  limestone 
powder  is  worth  $1.25  a  ton  at  the  works,  and  the 
freight  on  the  powder  $1.60  a  ton,  how  much  do  I 
pay  for  enough  limestone  to  equal  one  ton  of  burnt 
lime?  It  is  easily  seen  that  a  ton  of  limestone 
powder  costs  $2.85. 

"  Now,  how  much  limestone  powder  do  I  have 
to  buy  to  get  the  equivalent  of  one  ton  of  burnt 
lime?  Of  course,  we  must  pay  20  times  179  pounds, 
or  3,580  pounds.  This  costs  $5.  Thus,  if  I  apply 
limestone  powder,  I  pay  exactly  twice  as  much  for 
my  calcium  as  when  I  use  burnt  lime  at  v$2.50  a  ton. 

"  From  this  discussion  it  is  evident  that  the  whole 
question  narrows  itself  down  to  the  comparative 
cost  of  each  one  of  the  two  forms  of  lime  consid- 
ered. If  a  farmer  can  buy  limestone  powder  for 
one-half  what  burnt  lime  costs,  and  the  hauling 
distances  are  about  equal,  it  matters  little  which 
he  applies.  Nevertheless,  ease  of  application  should 
be  considered,  for  it  costs  much  more  in  time,  work, 
and  hauling  labor  to  apply  3,580  pounds  than  it 
costs  to  apply  2,000  pounds. 

"  Whoever  is  interested  in  lime,  soil  fertility,  or 
soil  renovation  should  read  what  leading  author- 
ities say  on  the  subject  in  various  books  on  soils. 


FERTILIZERS  AND   FERTILIZING 


IS 


There  are,  of  course,  other  questions  to  consider 
besides  the  cost  and  ease  of  application  in  connec- 
tion with  the  application  of  lime ;  for  example, 
some  authorities  claim  that  burnt  lime  depletes  the 
humus  in  the  soil,  and  ground  lime  increases  the 
humus  content.  Such  questions  are  taken  up  in 
books  on  soils.  The  question  I  have  been  consider- 
ing is  one  of  the  cost." 


COMBINATION  HAND  CULTIVATOR  AND  DRILL 


GREAT  VALUE  OF  HUMUS 


Humus  in  the  soil  has  seldom  been  taken  at  its 
full  worth.  The  mission  which  it  fulfills  is  second 
in  importance  only  to  that  which  is  fulfilled  by  the 
presence  of  plant  food  in  the  soil.  Humus  is  help- 
ful in  keeping  soil  in  proper  physical  balance,  in 
binding  soils  that  are  much  prone  to  blow,  in  in- 
creasing the  power  of  soils  to  absorb  and  hold 
moisture  and  in  making  more  effective  the  action 
of  fertilizers. 


l6  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

When  the  humus  is  exhausted  the  physical  con- 
dition of  the  soil  suffers.  The  soil  becomes  more 
impacted,  less  easily  aerated,  and  less  easily  pene- 
trated by  the  roots  of  plants.  Some  soils  so  light 
as  to  lift  with  the  wind  can  be  kept  from  blowing, 
at  least  in  a  great  measure  by  simply  keeping  them 
stored  with  grass  roots  or  other  vegetable  matter 
buried  in  the  soil.  The  increase  in  the  power  of 
soils  to  hold  moisture  is  very  great  when  well  stored 
with  humus.  When  commercial  fertilizers  are 
sown  on  land  they  will  fail  to  respond  properly 
unless  the  land  is  supplied  with  humus. 

Such  being  the  case,  every  effort  should  be  made 
to  store  the  soil  with  humus.  It  would  not  be  impos- 
sible to  have  excess  of  humus,  but  in  practice  this 
seldom  happens.  Humus  may  be  put  into  the  soil 
in  the  form  of  clover  roots  and  of  grass  roots,  of 
buried  catch  crops  and  barnyard  manure. 


CHAPTER  IV 

Water  and  Its  Control 

The  better  the  drainage^  the  surer  the  water  supply. 

— New  Engla7id  Homestead. 

The  importance  of  having  the  garden  well 
drained  is  not  half  appreciated.  Of  course,  if  the 
land  is  naturally  well  drained  there  would  be  no 
necessity  of  doing  the  thing  artificially.  But  if  the 
land  is  low  or  pockety,  it  is  likely  to  need  draining. 
While  water  is  necessary  to  crop  growing,  excess 
of  water  is  a  detriment  in  several  conspicuous  ways. 

First,  the  soil  is  sure  to  be  cold  and  wet  in  spring 
and  consequently  late ;  second,  it  is  likely  to  be- 
come dry  and  to  bake  during  summer,  because  the 
water  has  evaporated,  and  thus  the  crops  suffer  for 
lack;  third,  it  may  become  sour  and  filled  with 
weeds  difficult  to  eradicate,  and  for  both  these  rea- 
sons it  would  be  hard  for  cultivated  plants  to  get 
along. 

Drainage  takes  away  excess  water,  makes  the 
soil  warmer  and  earlier,  removes  the  cause  of  sour- 
ness, but,  most  important  of  all,  it  prevents  the 
baking  of  the  soil  during  summer.  In  fact,  in  this 
last  direction  it  positively  increases  the  amount  of 
water  available  to  the  plants  during  hot  and  rain- 
less weather,  for  it  insures  a  steady  water  flow 
from  below  toward  the  surface  beneath  which  it 
may  easily  be  held  by  good  methods  of  tillage. 

Upon  a  somewhat  larger  scale  than  the  ordinary 
home  garden  is  the  following  experience  which 
illustrates  not  only  the  importance  of  good  drain- 

17 


l8  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

age,  but  a  simple  method  of  laying  tile.  Joseph 
Rennie  of  Lake  county,  Illinois,  writes: 

"  I  have  15  acres  of  land  devoted  to  the  raising  of 
vegetables,  and  five  acres  of  that  area  are  drained. 
My  first  attempts  at  draining  were  a  failure.  The 
reason  for  this  I  afterward  found  to  be  that  I  had 
placed  the  tile  only  2  feet  deep,  and  the  water  never 
drained  out,  so  that  the  ground  above  the  tile  was 
dry.  An  old  farmer  said  to  me :  '  It  isn't  the  sur- 
face water  that  spoils  your  crop,  it  is  the  suck 
water.' 

"  I  relaid  all  the  tile  y/2  feet  deep  in  the  shallow- 
est places,  and  as  much  as  6  feet  deep  in  some  of 
the  other  places.  I  got  a  good  fall,  and  all  of  the 
tile  is  below  the  frost  line.  I  think  the  frost  does 
not  hurt  the  tile,  even  when  it  is  not  below  the 
frost  line,  provided  the  water  can  all  flow  out  and 
not  get  frozen  up  in  the  tile.  If  it  freezes  in  the 
tile,  the  tile  will  go  to  pieces. 

"  Part  of  my  tile  is  laid  in  quicksand,  but  it  has 
given  me  no  trouble.  In  laying  in  quicksand  it  is 
only  necessary  to  get  a  smooth  surface  on  which 
to  lay  the  tile,  and  then  pack  in  around  it  with  the 
surface  soil.  The  quicksand  taken  out  of  the  ditch 
can  be  used  to  cover  over  the  top  of  the  surface 
soil.  Some  of  my  neighbors  in  laying  tile  in  quick- 
sand cover  the  joints  with  tarred  paper,  fearing  that 
the  sand  will  run  in  around  the  joints  and  fill  up 
the  tile,  but  I  believe  little  sand  goes  in. 

"  My  soil  is  a  sandy  loam,  and  I  lay  my  lines  of 
tile  30  feet  apart.  Some  of  my  neighbors  who  have 
a  heavy  clay  soil  lay  their  lines  about  a  rod  apart. 
My  method  differs  in  that  I  run  all  of  my  lines 
parallel  to  each  other,  and  each  line  empties  into 
an  open  ditch.  The  other  way  is  to  lay  one  main 
line  of,  say,  8-inch  tile  and  have  a  large  number  of 


WATER  AND  ITS  CONTROL  IQ 

laterals,  consisting  of  4-inch  tiles.  But  the  trouble 
with  that  comes  at  the  joints.  It  requires  a  great 
deal  of  close  figuring  to  get  the  right  levels  for  all 
these  laterals  and  the  main  line.  Practically  the 
levels  over  the  v^hole  field  have  to  be  worked  out, 
or  there  will  be  trouble.  To  get  a  good  job  with 
that  system  requires  the  skill  of  a  drainage 
engineer.  With  my  system  each  line  is  by  itself,  and 
its  levels  are  the  only  ones  that  have  to  be  con- 
sidered. I  can  do  that  figuring  myself.  One  of 
my  lines  was  400  feet  long,  and  had  but  a  5-inch 
fall,  but  the  levels  for  it  were  about  perfect." 

CONSERVATION  OF  MOISTURE 

Eastern  and  southern  farmers  have  much  to  gain 
by  close  study  of  the  methods  employed  in  the 
West  to  conserve  moisture  in  the  soil,  because 
water  saving  is  their  problem,  also.  When  an 
abundant,  well-distributed  supply  of  rain  prevails, 
good  crops  follow.  This  order  of  things  is  not  the 
general  rule,  however,  as  every  crop  grower  well 
knows.  To  meet  the  situation  so  a  good  supply 
of  soil  water  may  be  had,  even  in  dry  seasons,  is 
possible  if  diligent  attention  be  given  to  the  land. 

Some  of  our  best  farmers  like  dry  seasons,  even 
prefer  them  to  wet  seasons ;  enough  water  is  stored 
away  for  maximum  yields,  weeds  are  not  so  apt  to 
bother,  and  the  work  of  planting  and  cultivating  is 
made  easy  and  inexpensive.  The  water  storage 
work  must  be  done  during  months  long  before 
water  is  demanded  by  growing  crops.  Fall  plow- 
ing does  much,  winter  disking  carries  the  work 
forward,  and  a  big  humus  supply  completes  the  job. 

If  land  is  in  tough  sod  one  cannot  expect  much 
water  to  find  its  way  down;  if  rolling  land  is 
tucked  in  by  a  hard,  smooth  surface  layer,  water 


20 


MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 


will  find  the  stream  with  more  ease  than  the  reser- 
voir down  deep  in  the  soil.  Consequently  if  plow- 
ing, disking,  and  mulch  making  are  delayed  or 
minimized,  the  chances  are  that  the  warm  winds 
of  spring  will  lick  up  water  so  fast  that  the  supply 
can  never  be  fully  replenished. 

The  secret  of  water  control  lies  with  tillage  tools. 
Lands  that  are  to  go  to  spring  crops  should  be 


STYLES   OF   HARROWS 

1,  Disc;  2,  Spike  Tooth;  3,  Adjustable  Spike  Tooth;  4,  Spring 
Tooth. 


broken  and  furrowed.  Any  way  will  do,  but  the 
water  must  be  held  long  enough  to  soak  into  the 
ground.  Then  the  disk  harrow  will  take  care  of 
future  showers  and  at  the  same  time  will  blanket 
in  what  has  already  been  sent  below.  Later  on  this 
land  can  be  plowed  to  good  advantage  all  around. 
The  soil  will  turn  better,  the  team  will  do  more 
work  and  the  crops  will  have  more  water.  It  is 
important  that  close  attention  be  given  this  water 
supply  matter.  It  is  especially  important  with 
lands  frozen  during  much  of  the  winter,  because  the 


WATER  AND   ITS   CONTROL  21 

g^reater  part  of  all  precipitation  is  lost  to  the  soil. 
When  better  preparation  is  given  the  land,  the 
water  supply  will  be  regulated,  fertilizers  will  do 
their  work  better,  micro-organisms  will  be  more 
active,  and,  what  is  more  to  the  point,  crop  yields 
will  be  increased. 


CHAPTER  V 

Function  of  Cultivation 

Dam  the  water  flowing  skyward  from  the  surface  soil; 
Break  the  surface,  keep  it  broken.      This  is  paying  toil; 
For  it  holds  the  water  surely  where  the  crop  root  feeds. 
Gives  the  plants  abundant  ??ioisture  to  supply  their  needs. 

—  Truefellonxj. 

"  Plow  deeply,  harrow  deeply,  and  cultivate 
shallow.  That  is  the  keynote  to  success,"  says 
W.  H.  Riddle  of  Baltimore  county,  Maryland,  "in 
raising-  any  crop  where  the  ground  should  be  plowed. 
The  deeper  the  plov^ing,  the  larger  the  bed  to  hold 
the  rains  as  they  fall.  The  deep  plowing,  say,  8 
to  ID  inches,  prevents  washing,  more  than  shallow, 
as  the  more  water  that  is  held  leaves  less  to  run 
off  the  surface.  To  retain  the  rnoisture  rub  or  roll 
and  harrow  once  as  you  plow.  The  earth  is  like 
a  lamp  wick,  full  of  pores,  and  the  moisture  is 
drawn  up  by  the  sun,  as  the  flame  draws  up  the 
oil.  Leaving  the  ground  open  and  rough  prevents 
the  escape  of  moisture;  closing  up  the  top  with 
fine  dirt  closes  up  the  pores,  so  that  the  moisture 
cannot  escape  any  more  than  the  oil  can  be  drawn 
up  through  the  smut  on  the  lamp  wick. 

"  To  break  up  the  oil  trust  we  have  only  to  leave 
our  lamp  wicks  untrimmed,  and  the  oil  will  always 
be  in  the  bowl ;  so  to  cover  the  farm  with  smut  in 
the  shape  of  fine  dirt  holds  the  moisture,  instead 
of  letting  it  be  drawn  up  by  the  sun  to  fall  down 
as  rain  somewhere  else.  As  farmers  learn  this 
way  of  holding  moisture  they  will  stop  fearing 
drouth. 


FUNCTION   OF   CULTIVATION  23 

"  Harrow  deep,  cut  the  soil  positively  fine  all  over 
4  or  5  inches  deep,  so  the  crop  can  send  out  its  net- 

work  of  roots  all 
through  the  ground  to 
take  up  the  available 
plant  food.  A  clod  is  not 
as  good  as  a  stone  on 
top  of  the  ground;  the 
^°^^^^  latter    will    prevent    the 

moisture  from  escaping,  while  the  clod  will  not 
give  out  any  plant  food.  In  preparing  for  any 
crop  I  go  over  the  land  and  run  my  foot  through, 
toe  downward,  in  the  soil,  so  that  I  cannot  reach 
any  ground  not  cut  to  fine  pieces.  Until  I  get  it 
that  way  I  do  not  want  to  plant. 

"  As  I  have  not  enough  straw,  or  bags,  or  boards 
to  cover  my  ground,  I  mulch  with  a  blanket  of  fine 
dirt  and  keep  the  soil  mulched,  never  letting  a  crust 
form.  This  is  the  whole  secret  of  cultivating  any 
crop.  I  do  not  care  about  killing  weeds.  I  never 
want  to  see  any  to  kill,  so  I  kill  the  seedlings  as  they 
sprout.  Only  those  seeds  on  top  or  very  close  to 
the  top  sprout  and  grow.  I  need  only  to  stir  the 
ground  an  inch  deep;  this  inch  of  fine  dirt  mulch 
holds  the  moisture.  Those  weed  seeds  deeper 
down  I  never  want  anything  to  do  with.  I  let  them 
stay  there,  where  they  lie  down,  and  they  never 
give  me  any  trouble. 

"  Now,  then,  get  your 
ground  plowed  and  har- 
rowed right.  Begin  three 
or  four  days  after  plant- 
ing any  crop  to  kill  those  flanker 
weed    seeds    on   top    as 

they  sprout.  Form  that  inch  of  fine  dirt  mulch  by 
going  over  the  land  twice  with  a  very  fine-toothed 


24  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

harrow,  if  you  have  not  a  weeder,  or  a  surface  cul- 
tivator, whose  wings  or  knife  blades  shave  the 
ground  an  inch  deep.  Failing  this,  take  off  those 
root-murdering  cultivator  teeth  from  the  cultivators 
you  have,  and  bolt  on  the  gangs  of  weeder  teeth 
made  to  go  on  any  style  or  size  of  cultivator,  an(| 
if  not  any  of  these  take  your  horse  rake  and  go  over 
your  crop  twice  before  it  comes  up.  These,  any  of 
them,  will  kill  the  millions  of  weed  seeds  as  they 
sprout." 


PLANKER 


PROPERTY  OF 

A.d6E:-OOuuE:Qe 


nonKTT  unuirr 

JV«  C  State  College 


CHAPTER  VI 

Fruit  Plantations  and  Their  Care 

Order  your  plants  with  reason^  but  insist  upon  their  obedience, 

— Orange  Jiidd  Farjner. 

PROPAGATION 


Several  methods  of  propagation  are  so  simple 
that  any  amateur  may  practice  them.  Probably  the 
simplest  of  all  is  layering.  In  this  case  a  new  plant 
is  procured  without  severing  a  stem  from  the  parent 
plant.  The  simplest  forms  of  this  method  are  with 
the  strawberry,  which  sends  out  runners  that  need 
only  be  anchored  with  stone  or  clod  in  order  to 
take  root,  and  with  the  blackcap  raspberry,  which 
takes  root  from   the   tips  of  the   present   season's 


LAYERING 
A,  Black  Raspberry;  B,  Strawberry;  C,  Grape;  D,  Quince. 


26 


MAKING    HORTICULTURE   PAY 


canes,  if  these  are  anchored  so  the 
wind  does  not  whip  them  about. 

Modifications  of  this  method  are 
employed  with  the  grape  and  other 
vines,  currants,  gooseberries,  etc., 
which  are  buried  shallow  and  al- 
lowed to  remain  so  for  several 
weeks.  The  buried  shoots  readily 
take  root  and  can  be  severed  so  that 
at  least  one  bud  or  growing  stem  is 
allowed  to  each  little  clump  of  roots. 
With  quinces,  gooseberries,  and 
currants  mound  layering  is  often 
resorted  to.  This  consists  in  piling 
earth  around  the  bushes  to  the 
depth  of  several  inches,  and  when 
the  stems  have  rooted,  cutting  these 
off  with  their  attached  roots,  and 
transplanting. 

Propagation  by  cuttings  is  so 
simple  with  most  outdoor  plants 
that  anyone  can  employ  it.  For  in- 
stance, blackberries  and  red  rasp- 
berries need  only  to  have  their  roots 
cut  in  pieces  and  these  planted  in 
moist  soil  in  order  to  secure  new  plants.  Grape 
vines  may  be  cut  into  single  eyes  or 
two-eyed  pieces,  and  buried  for  sev- 
eral weeks.  Sometimes  they  are  cut 
with  a  heel  or  mallet  so  as  to  get  a 
wider  area  and  root  surfaces  for  each 
stem.  As  soon  as  they  are  rooted,  and 
the  tops  are  growing  nicely,  they  may 
be  transplanted  to  nursery  rows  and  al- 
lowed to  grow  a  season  before  being  set  root 
in  place.   All  these  plants  mentioned  are      cutting 


FRUIT    PLANTATIONS    AND   THEIR    CARE 


27 


ROOT  CUTTING 


SO  treated  in  early  spring,  and  so  are  currants  and 
gooseberries  and  many  hardy  shrubs  for  orna- 
mental purposes.  In  many  cases 
the  twigs  are  merely  pushed  into 
the  ground  and  the  earth  firmed 
about  them. 

For  indoor  cuttings  a  saucer 
may  be  filled  with  sand  and  kept  moist  for  such 
green  w^ood  cuttings  as  geranium,  carnation, 
chrysanthemum,  etc.  When  these  have  produced 
roots  they  may  be  transplanted  to  little  pots  or 
boxes  and  transplanted  again  from  time  to  time  as 
the  plants  grow,  and  fill  the  pots 
with  roots.  Always  in  making 
green  wood  cuttings,  it  is  advis- 
able to  cut  close  to  a  bud  at  the 
lower  surface,  at  least  one  half. 

A  very  convenient  method  of 
securing  rooted  cuttings  is  to  use 
two  flower  pots,  a  large  one  with 
gravel,  broken  pots  or  other  ma- 
terial in  the  bottom  to  form  drain- 
age, and  then  a  smaller  pot  with  the  drainage  hole 
plugged  to  prevent  leakage.  This  pot  is  then  set 
upon  the  drainage  and  the  space  between  the  two 
pots  filled  with  sand.  Finally  the  inner  pot  is  filled 
with  water  and  the  cuttings  placed  in  the  sand 
around    its    edge. 

For  starting  seedlings  in  the 
greenhouse  or  in  hotbeds,  it  is 
often  desirable  to  use  flats,  that 
is,  boxes  not  over  3  inches  deep 
and  of  any  other  convenient  dimensions.  These 
boxes  are  filled  almost  full  of  soil  and  the  seeds 
sown  therein.  They  are  also  useful  for  pricking 
out  seedlings  of  such  plants  as  cabbage,  cauliflower. 


FLOWER   POT 
Cutting  Bed 


EYE   CUTTING 


28 


MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 


MARKER  AND  FLAT 


tomatoes,  peppers,  etc. 
The  young  plants  are 
put  at  distances  of,  say, 
2  inches,  to  develop 
abundant  roots,  and  to 
become  stocky.  In  order 
to  get  them  at  even  in- 
tervals, a  marker  is  often 


used  as  shown  in  the  illustration. 

SIMPLE  METHODS   OF   GRAFTING 

In  grafting  the  simplest  method  is  the  cleft. 
This  method  is  most  commonly  employed  in  large 
trees.  The  stock  or  main  limb  is  sawed  off  at 
right  angles  to  the  direction  of  its  growth.  A  cleft 
is  made  in  the  end  and  a  scion  whittled  in  narrow 
wedge  shape  is  thrust  into  this  cleft,  which  is  held 
open  by  a  wedge  until  the  scion  is  in  place,  then 
the  exposed  surfaces  are  covered  with  grafting  wax. 


BUDDING   KNIFE 


This  is  made  by  melting  one  part  of  tallow  and  two 
of  beeswax  with  four  of  rosin  in  a  kettle,  and  when 
melted,  pouring  into  a  pail  of  cold  water  and  work- 
ing with  the  greased  hands  until  the  stuff  resem- 
bles taffy. 

The  two  essential  points  in  all  grafting  methods 
are  to  have  the  growth  layer  (cambium)  of  both 
stock  and  scion  come  in  contact  and  to  exclude 
the   air.     The   growth    layer   is   between   the   bark 


FRUIT   PLANTATIONS   AND  THEIR   CARE 


29 


and  the  wood.  In  order  to  insure  this  contact,  it 
is  advisable  to  set  the  scion  at  a  slight  angle  across 
the  growth  layer  in  the  stock. 

Another  method  often  employed  is  known  as  the 
side  graft.  In  this  case  the  cleft  is  made  on  the 
side  of  a  limb  and  the  scion  inserted  there  instead 


STYLES   OF   GRAFTING 

A,  Shears;  B,  Grafter's  Tray;  C,  Grafting  Wedge;  D,  Cleft 
Grafting;  E,  Side  Grafting;  F,  Saving  Girdled  Tree;  G,  Whip 
Grafting. 


of  at  the  end,  the  limb  being  sawed  off  after  the 
scion  has  made  a  union.  Still  another  method  em- 
ployed with  small-sized  trees,  twigs  and  branches 
is  known  as  the  whip.  Both  scion  and  stock  are 
cut  diagonally  across,  then  split  down  the  center  a 
short  distance  and  then  the  tongue  of  one  is  made 
to  fit  into  the  cleft  of  the  other.     Finally  the  graft 


30  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

is  covered  with  grafting  wax  or  wound  with  yarn 
dipped  in  wax. 

Occasionally  it  becomes  necessary  to  save  trees 
which  have  been  girdled  by  mice  or  rabbits.  This 
is  a  very  simple  operation  if  performed  in  time.  It 
consists  in  inserting  several  scions  close  together 
and  around  the  trunk,  both  above  and  below  the 
injuries,  and  then  covering  the  exposed  surfaces 
with  grafting  wax.  These  scions  soon  form  con- 
nections between  the  root  and  the  upper  trunk  and 
growth  goes  merrily  on. 

Budding  is  a  form  of  grafting  in  which  a  bud  of 
the  present  season's  growth  is  inserted  in  the  stem 
of  another  tree,  usually  a  small  one,  sometimes, 
however,  in  upper  small  branches.  There  are 
several  styles,  the  commonest  of  which  is  T-bud- 
ding.  In  this  case  a  vertical  slit  is  made  just 
through  the  bark  and  a  cross-slit  made  near  the 
top.  The  bark  is  gently  loosened  and  the  bud  in- 
serted underneath  this  bark  and  then  tied  with 
strips  of  cotton  cloth.  In  a  few  days,  if  the  bud 
has  formed  a  union,  the  string  must  be  cut  to  pre- 
vent strangling.  Another  method  is  to  make  a 
ring  of  the  bark  with  the  bud  just  large  enough  to 
go  completely  around  the  stem  of  the  stock,  from 
which  a  similar  ring  of  bark  is  cut.  Tying  in  the 
same  manner  completes  the  operation. 

HOW  TO  SELECT  FRUIT  TREES 

Two  of  the  important  questions  with  the  fruit 
grower  today  are :  Where  can  I  get  the  kind  of  fruit 
trees  and  select  them  to  my  own  liking?  Orlando 
Harrison  of  Worcester  county,  Maryland,  declares 
there  is  but  one  answer  to  the  questions  :  "  Go  your- 
self to  the  nursery  and  be  convinced  whether  you 


FRUIT   PLANTATIONS   AND  THEIR   CARE  3I 

are  willing  or  not  to  place  yourself  in  the  hands  of 
the  nurseryman.  If  satisfied,  make  up  your  list  of 
varieties  so  the  nurseryman  can  tell  you  whether 
good  or  bad,  or  whether  he  grows  these  kinds. 
Many  growers  want  at  least  ten  times  too  many 
varieties  and  often  worthless  sorts  for  their  locality, 
simply  because  they  have  noticed  the  variety  well 
advertised.     Confine  yourself  to  few. 

"Ask  the  nurseryman  to  explain  his  methods  of 
growing  from  the  seed  or  seedlings  to  maturity, 
and  you  will  then  not  ask  for  cheap  trees.  A  visit 
v/ill  convince  you  that  no  good  nurseryman  is  spar- 
ing either  money  or  effort  today  in  producing  the 
very  best  trees  that  can  be  grown.  He  must  be  up 
to  date  on  practical  and  scientific  problems  per- 
taining to  all  nursery  and  orchard  work,  and  to 
protect  himself  and  you,  you  will  find  he  is  only 
too  glad  to  impart  this  knowledge  to  his  customers. 
A  visit  to  the  nursery  will  convince  you. 

"  Some  nurserymen  employ  the  best  scientific 
men  for  inspection  work  and  fumigation,  and  for 
looking  carefully  into  the  matter  of  spraying  with 
the  proper  materials  and  at  the  proper  time.  These 
men  are  assisted  by  the  state  entomologist  on  both 
scientific  and  practical  points.  A  visit  to  the  nur- 
sery will  convince  you  if  such  men  would  pay  you. 
Some  nurserymen  employ  men  well  posted  on 
varieties  of  fruit,  but  the  best  of  all  is  the  experi- 
mental farm  on  the  nursery  grounds.  Eating  the 
fruit  will  convince  you. 

"  When  you  are  ready  to  select  a  good  tree  you 
will  leave  the  whole  responsibility  to  the  nursery- 
man and  his  men,  and  the  only  thing  for  you  to 
do  is  to  select  the  grade  of  tree.  Convince  your- 
self that  his  seed  or  seedlings  are  the  best.  See  that 
the   roots   are   not   affected   with   knots   or   aphids. 


32  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

Ask  where  the  buds  were  cut  from  and  about  being 
true  to  name.  By  cutting  a  tree  you  can  tell 
whether  the  heart  is  affected  or  not. 

"  Ask  the  nurseryman  not  to  dig  too  early,  and 
use  great  care  in  keeping  the  trees  from  the  sun 
and  wind.  Don't  be  so  rigid  as  to  say  the  peaches 
must  be  8-16  of  an  inch  caliper,  and  not  less  than  5 
feet  high,  and  the  apples  must  be  three-quarter- 
inch,  and  not  less  than  6  feet  high,  when  some 
varieties  will  make  twice  the  growth  that  others 
will.  Too  many  orchardists  insist  that  trees  must 
be  exact  in  size  and  shape.  You  should  remember 
that  trees  are  not  molded,  but  grown,  and  as  varied 
in  sizes  as  your  corn  in  the  field.  It  is  almost  im- 
possible to  keep  in  sizes  and  varieties. 

"  Many  nurseries  can  show  you  something  worth 
while  any  month  in  the  year,  if  you  will  make  the 
trip.  Yet  August  and  September  is  the  best  time 
to  visit  them.  In  January  and  February  you  find 
them  grafting,  March  and  April  planting  and  ship- 
ping trees  and  digging  shrubs  and  plants.  May 
and  June  cultivating  trees  and  picking  strawberries, 
July  to  September  picking  peaches  and  early  apples 
and  budding  trees  in  full  force,  October  and  No- 
vember digging  and  shipping  trees  and  picking 
apples  and  pears,  December  trenching  trees  and 
getting  them  ready  for  early  spring.  The  nursery- 
man has  a  hard  business  to  handle,  and  a  visit  to 
the  nursery  will  convince  you  the  price  of  fruit 
trees  is  far  too  low." 

STARTING  THE  ORCHARD 

The  first  few  years  are  the  most  critical  of  an 
orchard's  existence,  because  neglect  Is  more  likely 
to  occur  and  the  injuries  done  at  this  time  can,  in 


FRUIT   PLANTATIONS  AND  THEIR   CARE  33 

many  cases,  never  be  overcome  by  subsequent  good 
care.  In  discussing  this  question  Prof.  V.  H.  Davis 
of  Ohio  State  University  gives  his  experience  as 
follows :  "  In  my  orchard  of  some  8,000  apple  trees 
and  a  few  hundred  each  of  pear,  plum,  cherry,  and 
peach,  a  plan  somewhat  as  follows  was  pursued 
in  selecting  apple,  pear,  cherry,  and  plum  stock. 

"  I  took  trees  not  more  than  two  years  old  from 
bud  or  graft.  In  my  judgment  trees  of  this  age 
will  stand  transplanting  better  than  older  ones,  and 
in  the  end  w^ill  make  better  trees.  Peach  trees  are 
large*  enough  at  one  year  and  should  never  be  older. 
Trees  were  ordered  in  the  fall  for  spring  shipment, 
at  which  season,  in  my  case,  they  were  set  out.  I 
bought  from  the  large  nurseries  that  grow  their  own 
stock  and  deliver  direct  from  their  own  grounds. 
The  small  nursery  in  the  locality  of  the  orchard 
is  usually  preferable  for  small  quantities  of  plants, 
but  is  not  available  for  large  orders.  I  never  buy 
from  agents,  because  I  object  to  paying  their  com- 
mission. The  nurseryman  who  is  largely  a  dealer 
is  also  avoided,  for  every  time  trees  are  handled 
the  chance  of  mixing  varieties  increases  and  it  be- 
comes more  difficult  to  fix  responsibility  in  case  of 
misrepresentation. 

"  Nurserymen  are  responding  to  the  popular  de- 
mand for  low-headed  trees,  but  trees  are  not  low 
enough  yet.  The  first  branches  should  be  not  more 
than  30  inches  from  the  ground  and  less  would 
usually  be  preferable.  Shipments  should  be  made 
as  early  in  the  spring  as  weather  conditions  will 
permit,  and  upon  arrival  the  trees  should  be  un- 
packed and  '  heeled '  at  once.  Transplanting  should 
be  done  as  early  as  the  soil  will  work  readily. 


34  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

PLANTING  AND  PRUNING 

"  The  roots  shoiild  never  be  exposed  for  any 
length  of  time  to  the  sun  and  wind,  and  should 
always  go  into  the  soil  wet.  In  the  morning,  we 
take  up  about  the  number  of  trees  that  can  be 
planted  before  noon  and  prune  the  roots.  These 
are  placed  on  a  sled  or  wagon  anci  covered  at  once 
with  straw,  carpet,  or  burlap  and  water  thrown 
over  the  entire  bundle  until  thoroughly  wet.  Im- 
mediately after  transplanting,  the  trees  should  be 
well  mulched  with  hay,  straw,  manure,  or  any 
material  not  too  coarse.  This  mulching  is  essen- 
tial, no-  matter  whether  the  clean  culture  or  the 
sod  mulch  system  is  to  be  followed.  The  mulch 
not  only  holds  moisture  around  the  roots,  but  keeps 
the  soil  loose  and  mellow.  A  good  tree  well  planted 
and  well  mulched  will  make  a  surprising  growth 
the  first  year.  I  have  meas-ured  as  much  as  5  feet 
in  our  own  orchard  in  soil  considered  poor. 

"  Pruning  is  the  one  operation  of  the  orchard 
most  neglected  or  improperly  done.  The  roots 
require  little  pruning,  because  50  per  cent  or  more 
of  the  root  system  is  left  in  the  soil,  even  w4th  the 
most  careful  digging.  All  broken  or  mangled  roots 
should  be  cut  off  smoothly  back  to  solid  wood,  in 
order  to  give  the  wounds  a  chance  to  heal  readily. 
A  root  much  longer  than  the  others  may  be  cut 
back  for  the  sake  of  symmetry  and  ease  of  trans- 
planting. 

WHY  TOP  IS  CUT  BACK 

"  After  transplanting,  the  top  is  cut  back  to  cor- 
respond to  the  loss  of  roots.  Otherwise  the 
evaporation  of  moisture  from  the  top  may  be  more 


FRUIT   PLANTATIONS    AND   THEIR    CARE  35 

rapid  than  the  broken  roots  can  absorb  water,  and 
the  tree  suffer,  if  not  die.  With  apple,  pear,  plum, 
and  cherry  from  three  to  five  branches  should  be 
selected  from  those  on  the  tree  as  it  comes  from 
the  nursery,  to  form  the  scaffold  branches  of  the 
future  top.  These  should  be  situated  alternately 
along  the  trunk;  never  opposite  each  other,  and 
should  be  cut  back  to  spurs  5  to  10  inches  in  length. 
The  others  are  removed  entirely.  Each  of  these 
spurs  will  throw  out  several  branches  the  first  sea- 
son, but  the  ends  of  the  spurs  will  usually  dry  out 
and  begin  to  decay. 

"  The  second  pruning  is  confined  almost  wholly 
to  the  removal  of  the  dead  tips  of  these  branches 
or  spurs.  These  are  cut  back  to  the  base  of  the 
first  new  branches,  and  if  the  wood  shows  no  decay 
the  wound  is  left  to  heal.  If,  however,  there  are 
any  signs  of  decaying  wood,  the  cut  is  made  at  the 
base  of  the  next  branch  and  so  on  until  solid  wood 
is  found.  Otherwise  the  decay  will  run  back  into 
the  main  branches,  or  even  to  the  trunk  of  the  tree, 
and  eventually  cause  its  death.  Every  branch  that 
does  not  mar  the  general  form  of  the  top  is  left  on 
the  little  tree  during  the  second  season  to  bear 
leaves  and  manufacture  plant  food. 

"  Root  growth  depends  upon  the  leaves  just  as 
much  as  branch  and  leaf  growth  depends  upon  the 
roots,  and  the  root  system,  weakened  by  trans- 
planting, needs  the  stimulus  of  all  the  plant  food 
possible  in  order  to  renew  the  parts  destroyed. 
This  renewed  vigor  immediately  manifests  itself 
in  growth  of  top,  and  the  less  the  equilibrium  be- 
tween root  and  top  is  disturbed,  the  greater  will 
be  the  tendency  to  bear  fruit  so  far  as  the  pruning 
factor  alone  is  concerned.  Subsequent  pruning 
should  consist   largely  in   thinning  out  the   super- 


36  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

fluons  branches  and  wayward  growth  sufficient  to 
admit  proper  amounts  of  air  and  sunshine.  Many 
branches  marked  for  removal  the  second  or  third 
season  may  very  profitably  be  left  until  they  have 
borne  fruit  for  several  years. 

**  Mice  injuries  are  prevented  by  cleaning  up  all 
rubbish  in  which  mice  might  breed  and  congregate, 
keeping  the  soil  around  the  tree  for  2  or  3  feet  per- 
fectly bare.  Frequently  a  little  mound  of  earth  6 
or  8  inches  high  is  piled  and  tramped  solidly  around 
the  base  of  the  tree.  So  far  as  rabbit  injuries  are 
concerned,  the  removal  of  all  brush,  briars,  weeds, 
etc.,  in  which  rabbits  are  most  likely  to  congregate 
has  prevented  any  serious  trouble  with  me." 

COVER   CROPS   FOR  THE   ORCHARD 

"  Tillage  burns  out  the  humus  and  calls  for  a  new 
supply.  It  lets  the  air  in,  like  opening  the  drafts 
of  a  stove.  The  higher  the  state  of  cultivation," 
writes  Prof.  G.  F.  Warren  of  the  College  of  Agri- 
culture of  Cornell  University,  "  the  more  humus 
needed.  We  must  supply  this  either  in  barnyard 
manure  or  by  cover  crops.  Manure  is  expensive, 
cover  crops  are  relatively  cheap  and  may  be  made 
to  furnish  the  nitrogen  and  humus  at  the  same 
time. 

**  We  pay  15  to  20  cents  a  pound  for  nitrogen 
when  we  get  it  in  a  fertilizer  bag,  but  we  can  get 
along  very  well  without  applying  any  if  we  plow 
under  clover.  Occasionally  the  orchard  may  need 
humus  without  additional  nitrogen ;  then  we  may 
use  rye,  wheat,  oats,  buckwheat,  or  let  the  summer 
grass  and  other  weeds  grow  as  a  cover  crop.  Such 
a  condition  does  not  often  arise  in  practice,  for  few 
soils  are  troubled  with  too  much  nitrogen. 


FRUIT   PLANTATIONS   AND  THEIR   CARE  37 

"A  common  mistake  is  in  letting  cover  crops 
grow  too  late  in  the  spring.  We  sometimes  forget 
that  we  are  raising  fruit,  not  clover.  The  time  to 
plow  is  when  it  will  do  the  fruit  the  most  good ; 
generally  this  is  before  the  clover  has  made  much 
growth  in  the  spring.  But  we  do  not  accomplish 
all  that  we  expect  when  we  leave  the  clover  so 
long.  Before  it  blossoms  it  has  in  it  about  all  the 
plant  food  that  it  is  going  to  take  up.  But  no 
matter  how  small  the  clover  is,  the  ground  should 
be  plowed  at  the  time  the  trees  need  tillage. 

"  Perhaps  the  following  is  as  near  to  a  general 
rule  as  can  be  given.  It  agrees  closely  with  the 
present  practice  of  many  of  our  best  growers.  Plow 
the  land  deep  before  planting;  raise  corn  or  other 
tilled  crops  for  two  or  three  years,  plowing  as 
deep  as  possible  without  injuring  the  roots.  Each 
year  a  larger  space  should  be  left  so  that  corn  will 
not  interfere  with  the  trees.  Crimson  clover  may 
be  sown  in  the  corn  at  the  last  cultivation  and  be 
plowed  under  early  in  the  spring  before  it  has 
made  much  growth. 

"  After  the  second  or  third  year  the  land  should 
be  given  over  entirely  to  the  orchard.  It  should 
be  plowed  early,  before  the  weeds  or  clover  have 
grown  very  much,  plowing  shallower  than  in  the 
first  years.  Continue  tillage  with  a  cutaway  or  a 
spring-tooth  harrow  until  the  middle  of  July  or 
August  I,  then  sow  15  to  20  pounds  of  crimson 
clover  seed  to  the  acre,  or  the  summer  grass  and 
weeds  may  be  allowed  to  grow.  It  is  not  always 
necessary  to  sow  clover  every  year.  If  the  trees 
are  tilled  too  late  in  the  season,  there  is  danger 
that  they  will  make  too  much  growth  in  the  fall 
and  be  more  likely  to  winterkill.  On  some  of  the 
sandy  soils  it  is  not  necessary  to  plow  every  year. 


38  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

Some  years  the  soil  may  be  worked  up  with  a  cut- 
away or  disk  harrow." 

MULCHING  YOUNG  TREES 

"  On  account  of  the  nature  of  the  land  at  my 
disposal  for  nut  orchards,"  writes  Dr.  Robert  T. 
Morris  of  New  York,  "  it  was  necessary  to  devise 
•  some  labor-saving  plan  that  would  cover  the  whole 
ground  in  a  general  way.  The  200  acres  set  out  to 
nut  trees  consist  in  part  of  open  tilled  land,  in  part 
of  rocky  pasture  land,  difficult  of  cultivation,  and 
in  part  of  newly  cleared  forest  land  with  stumps 
and  vigorously  sprouting  roots.  I  had  previously 
had  some  experience  with  perpetual  mulch,  and 
decided  to  apply  this  method  of  treatment  to  the 
entire  orchard. 

"  It  seemed  to  be  desirable  to  confine  the  mulch 
to  limited  areas  around  the  trees,  and  for  this  pur- 
pose I  finally  chose  galvanized  iron  netting.  This 
is  more  expensive  at  the  outset  than  lath  or  boards, 
but  it  lasts  for  20  years  or  more  and  in  the  end  is 
very  cheap.  My  netting  is  i  foot  high  and  it  en- 
circles a  diameter  which  is  estimated  to  include  the 
root  spread  of  any  given  tree.  The  netting  stands 
up  like  a  board  up  to  diameters  of  6  or  8  feet,  but 
after  that  it  is  supported  by  yokes  of  galvanized 
iron  rods  stuck  into  the  ground  at  any  desirable 
points.  As  the  trees  grow  the  diameter  of  the 
mulch  cage  is  increased. 

"  For  mulch  I  use  forest  leaves  chiefly,  as  they 
are  abundant  and  handy.  Wood  ashes  are 
sprinkled  over  the  mulch  in  March.  They  force 
rapid  growth  safely  if  used  properly.  The  chief 
objection  to  the  permanent  mulch  seems  to  be  in 
its  furnishing  a  home  for  field  mice,  which  gnaw 


FRUIT    PLANTATIONS    AND   THEIR    CARE  39 

the  bark  of  young  trees  in  winter.  My  present  plan 
is  to  surround  each  trunk  near  the  g-round  with  a 
collar  of  tarred  roofing  paper  loosely  curved,  but  I 
may  later  choose  a  galvanized  fine  wire  mesh  to  in- 
sure better  circulation  of  air. 

*'  I  do  not  see  why  the  mulch  cage  cannot 
replace  laborious  and  expensive  clean  cultivation 
and  expensive  special  fertilization  of  the  ground 
for  all  sorts  of  orchards.  It  seems  to  have 
solved  the  problem  in  connection  with  a  few  fruit 
trees  on  which  I  have  tried  it.  The  trees  grew  so 
rank  that  it  was  a  question  at  first  if  they  would 
not  spend  all  of  their  force  in  making  wood,  but 
plum  trees,  especially,  bore  so  enormously  in  addi- 
tion to  making  growth,  that  further  experimenta- 
tion will  be  desirable." 


CHAPTER  VII 

Orchard  Fruits 

Efi  hed a  no-'coujiifarm  lu  sel  i  ud plant  f rule  treaz  onto  it 
sozg  to  raze  the  price,  i  ud  talk  cair  ov  thein  soze  ever  ivufi  ud 
bee  spilin  to  by.     but  i  ud  allais  holdfer  a  hier  price. 

—Joe  Moggason, 

TREE  PLANTING 

"  We  receive  trees  many  times  that  are  started 
to  leaf  out  and  with  very  Httle  packing  around  the 
roots,"  writes  Benton  Gebhard  of  Michigan.  **  The 
roots  are  dry  and  many  trees  are  fatally  injured 
when  they  get  to  their  destination.  Sometimes  we 
immerse  these  roots  in  warm  water  to  revive  them. 

*'  The  roots  should  be  packed  in  building  paper 
and  moss,  or  partly  decayed  chaff.     The  material 


3 


TREE-SETTING   DEVICES 

which  holds  the  moss  or  excelsior  would  be  a  proper 
material  to  use  in  packing  the  trees.  Many  nur- 
series use  excelsior  and  rye  straw  in  packing.  You 
can  fill  a  tub  with  water  with  this  class  of  material, 
and  squeeze  the  water  out  as  much  as  you  can,  and 
you  will  have  most  of  the  water  left  in  the  tub. 
But  if  you  take  moss  or  partly  decayed  leaves,  and 
fill  the  receptacle  with  water,  upon  taking  out  the 
moss  or  leaves,  you  will  find  that  half  or  two-thirds 


ORCHARD  FRUITS  4I 

of  the  water  will  be  taken  out  with  it.  That  goes 
to  show  the  material  that  will  retain  the  moisture 
in  packing  trees  for  shipment  over  any  distance. 

"Another  thing  to  be  considered  is  the  treat- 
ment and  handling  after  the  stock  has  been  received. 
Many  nurserymen  are  careless  about  exposing  the 
roots,  put  the  trees  on  wagons  and  drive  two  or 
three  miles  in  the  dry,  hot  sun,  or  sometimes  in  the 
cold,  chilling  wind,  and  this  exposes  the  roots  to 
injury  every  minute.  They  then  throw  the  trees 
into  the  packing  sheds  and  leave  them  exposed  to 
the  cold  or  drying  atmosphere ;  with  the  result  that 
when  the  planter  receives  the  tree,  the  majority  of 
the  roots  are  shriveled  and  injured.  They  should 
use  the  utmost  caution  in  protecting  the  roots,  from 
the  time  the  trees  are  dug  for  packing  until  tTiey 
receive  the  planter's  attention,  and  we  should  give 
them  the  same  care  until  they  are  growing  in  the 
orchard. 

"  The  nurseryman  is  not  to  blame  altogether. 
The  planter  is  to  blame  in  many  instances.  Re 
receives  the  trees  in  a  careless  manner;  he  goes 
after  them  with  a  hay  rack,  and  probably  waits  a 
day  before  he  gets  them,  and  during  all  this  time 
the  roots  are  exposed  and  drying.  He  seldom 
thinks  of  doing  anything  to  protect  the  roots.  The 
next  day  they  are  taken  out  in  the  field  and  thrown 
in  piles,  with  perhaps  horse  blankets  over  them, 
and  perhaps  not;  and  there  they  are  exposed  to 
the  heat  and  drying  wind.  We  have  a  chilly  at- 
mosphere in  the  north,  and  these  tender  roots  are 
injured  as  much  in  that  kind  of  weather  as  in  the 
dry  season. 

"  There  are  many  who  have  no  care  against  that. 
The  buyers  evidently  feel  the  trees  were  sold  by  the 
agent  with  the  agreement  to  replace  what  do  not 


42  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

live,  and  so  it  does  not  make  much  difference.  They 
scatter  the  trees  along  the  Hne,  with  the  holes  dug 
a  day  or  so  before  planting,  and  then,  with  the  roots 
injured  by  drying,  they  plant.  In  many  cases  they 
slash  the  tops  off.  The  tree  nust  have  a  certain 
amount  of  life  in  it  to  mature  the  root  system,  but 
they  have  no  knowledge  of  this  and  lose  severely 
thereby.  They  cut  the  roots  off  too  close  and 
plant  the  trees  in  the  holes  in  bad  weather,  and 
leave  them  to  live  or  die,  and  then  blame  the  nur- 
seryman if  they  die. 

"  The  right  way  is  to  get  trees  as  early  as  pos- 
sible, and  in  good  condition,  and  if  not  ready  to 
plant,  heel  them  in  on  the  north  side  of  the  barn; 
then,  if  the  roots  are  injured,  they  will  be  par- 
tially repaired  in  time  for  planting.  I  have  set 
a  great  many  thousand  trees  having  long  fibrous 
roots,  and  have  lost  very  few  of  them.  The  cherry 
and  the  Japanese  plum  must  be  planted  early. 
They  start  their  fibers  at  the  first  touch  of  warm 
weather,  and  if  they  are  moved  very  much  after 
the  fibers  are  started  it  is  almost  sure  loss  of  the 
tree. 

'Tt  would  be  a  good  practice  to  prune  the  roots 
before  heeling  in.  If  the  roots  are  pruned  early, 
they  have  a  better  chance  to  get  started  before  the 
tree  is  planted,  and  it  will  be  seen  that  the  large 
roots  start  sooner  than  the  smaller  ones.  There 
are  many  fibers  from  the  root,  if  the  root  is  in  good 
condition,  and  they  should  be  kept  in  good  condi- 
tion. 

"  I  have  practiced  carrying  tubs  or  tanks  of  water 
on  a  stone  boat,  with  50  or  100  trees  immersed  in 
water.  Then  I  am  careful  not  to  dig  the  hole  until 
I  am  ready  to  plant  in  it,  or  at  least  not  long  before. 
Then  the  earth  should  be  carefully  filled  in  around 


ORCHARD  FRUITS  43 

fibers  of  the  roots.  I  select  thick  or  rainy  days  for 
setting,  and  carry  our  trees  on  the  stone  boat,  or  in 
our  arms,  without  injuring  the  roots,  where  on  a 
hot  day  they  would  dry,  or  on  a  cold  day  they 
would  be  greatly  injured  by  the  chill.  I  do  not 
puddle.  I  think  under  some  circumstances  pud- 
dling would  be  beneficial,  but  if  the  trees  are 
handled  carefully,  in  a  sandy  soil,  the  majority  of 
the  trees  will  live.  I  have  known  neighbors  around 
me  to  lose  50  per  cent  to  75  per  cent  of  the  trees 
set  out,  when  I  have  received  700  to  800  and  lost 
only  a  dozen  or  so.  I  have  known  others  to  lose 
50  per  cent,  and  I  have  not  lost  10  per  cent  at  the 
same  time,  from  the  same  nursery  and  the  same 
kind  of  trees." 

WHEN   AND    HOW   TO    PRUNE 

The  question  frequently  arises,  when  to  prune. 
Among  the  earlier  horticulturists  this  question  was 
often  answered  as  follows :  Prune  when  your 
knife  is  sharp.  This  is  a  comparatively  safe 
method  to  follow  with  most  plants,  but  where  the 
problem  involves  the  management  of  extensive  com- 
mercial plantations  it  is  not  so  easy  to  prune  in  this 
miscellaneous  fashion.  The  work  must  necessarily 
be  done  at  some  particular  season  and  carried  on  in 
a  systematic  manner  after  some  definite  plan. 

With  most  orchardists  and  gardeners  pruning 
can  best  be  done  during  the  winter  or  early  spring 
months,  and  where  the  object  is  the  removal  of 
small  branches  this  season  is  undoubtedly  quite  as 
satisfactory  as  any  other.  In  fact,  pruning  during 
late  spring,  about  the  time  or  just  previous  to  the 
beginning  of  growth,  is  particularly  advantageous 
with  the  peach,  because  at  that  season,  as  a  rule, 


44  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

all  injury  to  the  annual  growth  from  winterkilling 
will  be  apparent,  and  the  pruner  can  take  advan- 
tage of  this  to  remove  all  dead  or  injured  branches, 
and  at  the  same  time  modify  his  plan  so  as  to  leave 
a  maximum  quantity  of  wood  in  order  to  secure  a 
profitable  crop  of  fruit,  which  might  not  be  pos- 
sible were  the  usual  practice  of  removing  half  the 
annual  growth  followed  in  such  seasons. 

With  apple  and  pear,  which  suffer  less  from  win- 
terkilling, the  annual  pruning  can  as  well  be  done 
in  March,  in  the  north,  as  at  any  other  season. 
With  the  grape,  however,  which  is  likely  to  pro- 
duce a  heavy  flow  of  sap  if  the  pruning  is  delayed 
until  late  in  the  season,  it  is  undoubtedly  best  to  do 
the  pruning  during  the  late  fall  and  early  winter 
months. 

When  the  pruning  involves  the  removal  of  an- 
nual growth,  rather  than  large  branches,  the  cut 
invariably  should  be  made  immediately  above  a 
bud.  If  made  just  below  a  bud,  or  in  the  middle 
of  the  space  between  buds,  that  portion  of  the 
shoot  left  above  the  topmost  bud  invariably  dies 
back  to  the  bud,  leaving  a  blackened,  decaying 
stem,  which  is  of  no  benefit  to  the  plant  and  may 
prove  a  direct  injury  in  that  it  provides  a  means 
of  access  for  injurious  pests. 

To  facilitate  the  healing  process  in  the  plant,  all 
wounds  which  are  made  should  be  left  smooth ;  that 
is,  if  it  is  necessary  to  use  a  saw  in  removing  a 
large  branch,  the  cut  surface  should  be  left  smooth 
and  clean,  particularly  around  the  edges.  The  saw 
should  be  sharp  and  leave  a  clean  cut.  This  in 
turn  should  be  made  smoother  by  the  use  of  a 
pruning  knife  or  a  sharp  chisel.  The  healing 
process  starts  quicker  and  progresses  more  rapidly 


ORCHARD  FRUITS  45 

when  this  precaution  is  observed  than  when  a  rough 

and  jagged  surface  is  left. 

To  obtain  best  results  in  removing  large  branches 
two  cuts  should  be  made ;  that  is,  the  branch  should 
be  sawed  off  i8  or  20  inches  above  the  point  of  its 
origin  to  prevent  splitting  down  and  tearing  off  a 
considerable  portion  of  the  bark.  After  the  weight 
of  the  branch  has  been  lessened  by  cutting  away 
the  main  part  a  second  cut  can  be  made  and  the 
stub  held  in  position  until  the  cut  is  completed. 
This  prevents  the  splitting  down  and  tearing  off 
the  bark,  which  is  likely  to  result  from  the  careless 
removal  of  large  branches. 

The  evil  results  of  splitting  can  be  overcome  fre- 
quently by  cutting  first  on  the  under  side  of  the 
limb  and  then  upon  the  upper  side,  so  that  the 
breaking  of  the  tissue  occurs  near  the  middle  of  the 
wound  instead  of  at  one  side.  When  this  is  the 
case,  tearing  and  splitting  seldom  occur. 

STORING  FRUIT 

"  After  trying  many  different  methods  of  keeping 
the  winter  supply  of  vegetables,"  writes  L.  Hunt 
of  Orleans  County,  Vermont,  "  I  have  settled 
upon  the  following  plan  as  best  suited  to  my  needs : 
Apples  I  tried  in  barrels,  boxes,  and  wrapped  in 
paper  on  shelves.  I  then  tried  spreading  them  out 
not  more  than  three  or  four  deep  on  the  cellar 
bottom,  which  is  of  soil  and  dry.  Wealthy  apples 
picked  early,  before  they  become  fully  ripe  and 
mellow,  will  keep  until  March.  Last  year  some 
were  on  hand  the  first  of  May.  They  were  juicy 
and  crisp,  but  had  lost  their  tartness  somewhat.  I 
find  that  all  fruit  intended  for  long  keeping  should 
be  gathered  before  fully  ripe.    The  flavor  is  not 


46  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

SO  good,  of  course,  but  this  is  more  than  offset  by 
the  increase   in  keeping  quality. 

"  All  cellars  for  the  storage  of  fruit  and  vege- 
tables should  be  as  cold  as  possible  without  freez- 
ing, and  should  be  aired  as  often  as  the  outside 
temperature  will  admit.  If  inclined  to  dampness 
quantities  of  air-slaked  lime  should  be  placed  there 
in  boxes  or  pails.  This  will  absorb  the  moisture 
and  gases  and  keep  the  cellar  dry  and  sweet.  From 
time  to  time  through  the  winter  I  sort  my  apples 
and  take  out  all  that  have  begun  to  decay.  These 
I  feed  to  the  hens  or  pigs.  The  fruit  lying  next  to 
that  which  has  begun  to  decay  will  be  injured  in 
flavor  and  likely  to  rot." 

ADVERTISING  FRUIT   FOR   SALE 

At  a  recent  fruit  growers'  meeting  considerable 
attention  was  attracted  to  the  exhibit  of  boxed 
apples  by  the  imiform  packing,  but  more  especially 
by  the  way  which  the  exhibitor,  Fall  Brook  Farms, 
was  taking  to  advertise  the  fruit.  A  neat  four- 
page  circular  showing  two  full-page  scenes  on  the 
farm,  the  other  two  pages  telling  of  the  farm's 
products,  was  being  handed  to  visitors.  This  cir- 
cular not  only  described  the  orchards,  but  men- 
tioned the  other  farm  products,  such  as  pigs,  seed 
corn  and  oats,  hay,  pears,  peaches,  etc.  In  dis- 
cussing the  picking  and  packing,  the  circular  reads 
as  follows: 

"  All  our  fruit  is  handled  with  care.  This  costs 
us  more,  but  it  insures  you  a  better  product.  Fruit 
is  picked  by  hand  into  a  basket  and  picked  out  of 
the  basket  when  needed  for  packing.  It  is  not 
poured  out.  Apples  need  to  be  handled  like  eggs. 
All  apples  are  wiped,  wrapped  singly  in  tissue  paper 


ORCHARD  FRUITS  47 

bearing  our  trade  mark,  and  packed  in  paper-lined 
boxes.  But  one  grade  of  fruit  is  packed  in  boxes, 
and  that  is  the  best.  The  number  of  apples  in  a 
box  varies  with  the  size ;  it  may  be  45,  96,  128,  or 
up  to  200.  Specify  the  size  you  desire  when  order- 
ing. We  guarantee  this  fruit  to  be  well  grown, 
well  packed ;  and  to  be  in  sound  condition  when  it 
leaves  us.  If  it  arrives  otherwise  you  will  do  a 
favor  by  notifying  us  of  the  fact  at  once." 

Following  this  quoted  paragraph  are  brief  notes 
concerning  principal  varieties  the  farm  has  to  sell, 
as  follows : 

"  Baldwin,  a  good  size  red  apple,  a  good  keeper, 
and  suitable  for  eating  or  cooking.  Northern  Spy, 
an  apple  of  the  highest  quality,  spicy,  red  and 
yellow  streaked,  excellent  for  dessert  or  cooking. 
Rhode  Island  Greening,  a  green  apple,  sub-acid,  and 
excellent  for  culinary  purposes.  Roxbury  Russet, 
an  admirable  late  apple  with  a  russet  and  green 
skin,  usually  used  for  dessert." 

From  these  quotations  the  reader  will  gather 
valuable  hints  as  to  satisfactory  ways  of  disposing 
of  produce.  Nothing  is  so  useful  in  building  up  a 
business  as  a  clear-cut  policy  like  that  indicated 
above.  The  customer  very  soon  learns  to  know 
that  the  farmer  can  be  depended  upon,  and,  with 
this  knowledge,  will  not  be  tempted  to  go  elsewhere 
in  making  purchases ;  indeed,  he  will  often  place 
orders  ahead.  This  is  well  attested  by  many  who 
have  tried  the  plan. 

THE  APPLE 

The  apple  succeeds  over  a  wider  territory  than 
any  other  temperate  climate  fruit;  it  offers  wider 
opportunity  for  utility  than  any  other  fruit,  and  it 


48  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

can  be  put  to  a  larger  variety  of  uses  than  any 
other.  Some  varieties  do  better  on  one  kind  of 
soil  than  other  varieties  will,  but  in  general  apples 
will  succeed  well  on  almost  all  soils,  where  agri- 
cultural crops  are  grown.  A  rather  strong,  loamy 
soil,  ranging  between  sandy  and  clayey  soils,  should 
be  given  the  preference,  especially  where  the 
ground  is  rather  high.  Some  few  varieties  do  well 
on  extremes,  but  these  cases  are  rare.  Soils  rich 
in  humus  are  not  desirable,  since  they  are  likely 
to  produce  too  much  wood  growth,  but  a  reason- 
able amount  of  humus  is  necessary.  This  is  easiest 
secured  by  plowing  under  a  clover  sod  and  by  using 
an  annual  cover  crop  of  crimson  clover,  cow  peas, 
or  vetches.  In  special  cases  the  ground  may  be 
allowed  to  stand  in  grass  and  mowed  once  or  twice 
a  season,  but  generally  this  practice  is  not  looked 
upon  with  favor.  Clean  culture  is  the  more  de- 
sirable way  of  managing  the  apple  as  a  rule. 

Most  standard  varieties  should  be  set  40  to  50 
feet  apart.  Smaller  growing  standards  may  be  set 
as  close  as  30  feet,  but  usually  this  is  not  good  prac- 
tice, because  the  trees  are  likely  to  interfere  with 
one  another.  Such  trees  are  used  as  fillers  and 
cut  out  when  they  begin  to  interfere  with  the  per- 
manent trees.  By  the  term  "  filler "  is  meant  a 
quick-maturing  variety  of  small  growth  which  bears 
for  several  years  before  the  permanent  trees  come 
into  profitable  bearing.  The  danger  with  fillers  is 
that  they  are  too  often  allowed  to  stand  after  they 
begin  to  interfere  with  the  standards. 

Still  smaller  trees  are  used  occasionally  for  filling 
in  between  the  fillers.  These  are  known  as  dwarfs. 
They  have  been  grown  more  or  less  for  50  years, 
but  only  recently  have  they  attracted  the  attention 


ORCHARD  FRUITS  49 

of  commercial  orchardists.  See  Mr.  Powell's  article 
on  page  59. 

Among  the  hundreds  of  varieties  it  is  difficult  to 
select  a  list  that  will  suit  all  conditions  and  require- 
ments. The  following  sorts  are  well  adapted  for 
home  use  and  local  markets  and  many  of  them  are 
general  market  favorites.  They  cover  the  whole 
season. 

Early — Yellow  Transparent,  Early  Harvest, 
Primate,  Early  Joe,  Red  Astrachan,  Oldenburg, 
Chenango,  Sweet  Bough,  Gravenstein,  and  Porter. 
These  cover  the  season  in  the  latitude  of  central 
New  York,  from  about  the  middle  of  July  until  the 
middle  of  September.  They  furnish  a  considerable 
choice  of  flavors  from  rather  acid  to  deliciously 
sweet.  For  home  use  at  least  one  tree  of  each 
should  be  in  every  good-sized  orchard. 

Autumn — IMaiden  Blush,  Fameuse,  Fall  Pippin, 
St.  Lawrence,  Wealthy,  and  Hawley.  These  carry 
on  the  season  well  from  mid-September  until  mFd- 
November. 

Winter — Alackintosh,  Jonathan,  Hubbardston, 
Grimes  Golden,  Tompkins  King,  Wagener,  Bald- 
win, Yellow  Bellflower,  Tolman  Sweet,  Northern 
Spy,  and  Roxbury  Russet  will  furnish  a  succession 
from  mid-November  until  Alay,  or  even  June,  with 
good  storage,  as  described  on  another  page. 

Farther  south.  Yellow  Transparent,  Red  Astra- 
chan, Benoni,  Oldenburg,  Gravenstein,  Haas, 
Maiden  Blush,  Rambo,  Pecks  Pleasant,  Smith 
Cider,  Hubbardston,  Grimes  Golden,  Jonathan,  and 
Winesap  will  furnish  a  good  succession  for  the 
apple  season. 

In  the  northwest.  Yellow  Transparent,  Tetofski, 
Oldenburg,  Fameuse,  Wealthy,  and  Golden  Russet 
are  recommended. 


50  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

RENOVATION  OF  OLD  APPLE  TREES 

Many  old  apple  orchards  have  declined  in  bear- 
ing because  they  have  not  been  properly  managed. 
Usually  such  trees  are  full  of  dead  wood,  water 
sprouts  and  interfering  limbs  which  later  bear  fruit 
in  small  amount  and  of  poor  quality.  Too  often 
such  trees  are  cut  down  as  unprofitable  without 
first  giving  them  an  opportunity  to  redeem  them- 
selves. It  is  impossible  to  say  how  each  tree 
should  be  handled  to  bring  it  into  profitable  bear- 
ing again,  but  whatever  is  done  should  not  be  done 
suddenly.     It  should  be  taken  by  degrees. 

First,  in  the  renovation  of  the  old  orchard,  the 
dead  wood  should  be  cut  out.  If  large  limbs  must 
be  removed, they  should  be  taken  out  part  at  a  time; 
that  is,  the  limb  should  be  sawed  from  beneath 
i8  inches  or  2  feet  from  the  main  trunk.  When 
the  saw  begins  to  stick,  it  should  be  withdrawn  and 
the  final  cut  made  from  above.  This  will  prevent 
all  possibility  of  splitting  down  the  main  trunk. 
When  the  limb  has  fallen,  the  stub  may  be  removed 
close  to  the  main  trunk.  The  closer  it  is  the  better, 
since  the  healing  of  the  wound  is  much  quicker. 
It  is  always  desirable  to  paint  over  wounds  larger 
than  an  inch  in  diameter  so  as  to  protect  the  main 
trunk  from  decay.  Good  white  lead  and  linseed  oil 
is  satisfactory  paint  for  this  purpose. 

After  dead  wood  has  been  removed,  the  water 
sprouts  should  be  taken.  If  there  are  a  great 
many  of  these  it  is  desirable  to  remove  only  about 
a  third  to  a  half  the  first  year.  This  will  prevent 
the  appearance  of  new  water  sprouts  at  least  to  a 
large  extent,  and  the  tree  will  be  encouraged  to 
bear   earlier   than   if   it  is   exerting   its   energy   to 


ORCHARD   FRUITS 


51 


produce  new  wood.  None  of  the  gnarly  living 
twigs  on  the  branches  should  be  removed,  because 
these  are  the  ones  that  bear  the  fruit. 

Frequently  old  orchards  do  not  get  sufficient 
moisture  in  the  summer.  It  is  not  usually  safe  to 
plow  deeply,  because  too  many  of  t^e  roots  might 
be  injured.  A  shallow  surface  cultivation  after 
turning  the  sod  is  better  than  deeper  stirring.  After 
the  ground  has  been  worked,  applications  of  stable 
manure  and  fertilizer  may  be  given  and  cover  crops 
such  as  crimson  clover  sown  toward  midsummer. 
The  management  of  the  orchard  from  then  forward 
will  be  the  same  as  for  trees  that  have  been  prop- 
erly managed   from   the  start. 

If  the  trees  are  of  undesirable 
varieties,  or  if  for  any  other  rea- 
son the  owner  wishes  to  have  dif- 
ferent varieties,  it  is  easier  to  use 
them  as  stocks  for  grafting  the 
desired  kinds  than  it  is  to  plant 
and  care  for  the  new  trees.  Old 
trees  cleft  grafted  will  begin  to 
bear  in  three  or  four  years> 
FOLDING  LADDER  whereas  even  the  quickest  matur- 
ing varieties  of  young  trees 
rarely  bear  at  all  before  five  years.  The  grafting 
is  a  simple  process  which  anyone  can  produce  by 
following  the  directions  given  elsewhere.  If  space 
is  limited  and  if  only  a  few  trees  can  be  grown,  two, 
three,  or  more  varieties  may  be  grown  on  the  one 
tree.  In  fact,  as  curiosities,  trees  have  been  grown 
with  even  more  than  50  varieties  upon  the  one 
trunk. 

Details  of  orchard  management  will  be  found 
under  their  various  headings. 


11 1® 

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52  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

PACKAGES  FOR  APPLES 

As  to  packages  for  apples,  W.  A.  Irvine  of  Greene 
county,  Missouri,  writes :  "  I  used  both  barrels  and 
boxes  last  year  with  satisfaction  from  both  for  their 
special  use,  but  would  have  used  proportionately 
more  boxes  than  barrels  if  I  could  have  gotten 
them.  I  used  both  the  sawed,  smooth  on  one  side, 
and  the  veneer  boxes,  but  the  latter  gave  poor  satis- 
faction, as  they  were  too  frail  and  the  cost  was  the 
same,  lo  cents.  The  sawed  box  was  made  of  gum 
wood,  which  is  rather  brittle  and  a  cherry  color.  I 
would  prefer  white  wood,  which  they  use  in  the 
northwest  and  California. 

"  Box  stuff  can  be  easily  handled,  and  unskilled 
labor  can  put  it  together.  In  marketing  over 
4,000  bushels  of  apples  last  year,  more  than  half 
were  packed  in  boxes.  All  the  number  ones  of 
Jonathan,  Grimes,  Winesap,  York,  Ingram,  and 
Gano,  also  number  two  Jonathan,  went  in  boxes. 
I  could  have  sold  number  one  Ben  Davis  for  25 
per  cent  more  had  they  been  in  bushel  boxes,  in- 
stead of  barrels.  Yellow  Bell  and  Transparent 
should  be  packed  like  peaches,  as  they  are  too  ten- 
der for  ordinary  packages.  They  should  be  picked 
with  extreme  care. 

"  I  face  both  barrels  and  boxes  with  the  same 
class  and  quality  of  apples  they  contain.  The  boxes 
bulge  one-half  inch  top  and  bottom  to  prevent? 
bruising  when  headed.  I  use  the  corrugated  straw 
board  mat,  top  and  bottom,  both  in  boxes  and  bar- 
rels. The  boxes  are  stenciled  on  both  ends  with 
name  of  variety,  grade  and  grower's  name  and 
locality.  The  boxes  hold  not  quite  one  bushel  and 
weigh  from  45  to  52  pounds. 


ORCHARD  FRUITS  53 

"  The  only  just  way  to  buy  or  sell  fruit  is  by  the 
pound.  I  find  that  the  first  and  most  important 
part  is  to  grow  good  varieties  and  quality,  and  have 
but  little  trouble  to  sell  the  fruit,  if  properly  picked 
and  packed.  I  sold  my  Jonathans  and  Grimes  for 
50  cents  for  windfalls  to  $1.50  a  bushel  box,  while 
I  could  not  get  an  offer  for  Ben  Davis  at  25  cents 
a  bushel.  I  find  that  Ingrams  sold  as  readily  after 
holidays  as  Jonathans  did  before.  The  Ingram  apple 
is  without  doubt  the  best  keeper  that  grows  in  the 
Ozarks,  and,  with  extra  care,  can  be  grown  to  a  fair 
size.  I  would  store  all  light-colored  apples  in  a  cool 
storage  or  big  cellar,  as  they  require  a  milder  tem- 
perature than  Jonathan,  Ben  Davis,  or  Ingram.  One 
empty  barrel  cost  me  the  same  as  three  boxes. 

"  I  used  a  packing  table  for  Jonathan  and  other 
fancy  apples,  mounted  on  sled  runners  and  drawn 
behind  the  wagon  with  empty  boxes.  I  used  the 
California  picking  bag  and  another  year  will  use 
one-bushel  baskets  on  a  double-decked  wagon,  and 
pack  under  a  shed  adjoining  my  cool  storage,  or 
concrete  apple  cellar,  32  x  64  feet,  roof  and  all  con- 
crete. In  March  I  sold  number  one  and  fancy 
Jonathan  and  Ingrams  for  $2  a  bushel  box,  and 
there  is  no  reason  why  we  should  not  get  as  good 
prices  as  others,  with  the  same  quality  and  care." 

MARKETING  APPLES 

Walter  Snyder,  a  Maryland  apple  dealer,  writes 
concerning  the  marketing  of  apples,  that  "  the 
apple  should  be  hand  picked.  When  I  say  hand 
picked,  I  do  not  mean  to  take  a  fence  rail  or  a  club 
and  knock  the  fruit  down  on  the  ground  and  pick 
up  by  hand,  as  is  the  custom  prevailing  in  some 
sections  of  our  state.     Ladders  should  be  provided 


54  MAKING   HORTICULTURE  PAY 

SO  as  to  reach  the  topmost  limb,  and  each  apple 
picked  and  carefully  placed  in  the  picking  basket 
carried  by  the  picker,  or  in  the  bag  or  apron  sus- 
pended from  the  neck  or  the  body.  Next  the 
apples  should  be  carefully  emptied  under  the  tree 
on  straw  prepared  for  them.  There  is  a  difference 
of  opinion  among  apple  growers  as  to  whether  it 
is  best  to  let  them  lie  a  few  days  in  piles  under  the 
trees  or  to  put  them  in  barrels  immediately,  but  I 
am  not  prepared  to  express  an  opinion  on  that  sub- 
ject. 

"  My  remarks  apply  more  particularly  to  market- 
ing. For  the  fall  and  winter  varieties,  it  is  always 
profitable  to  double-head.  To  do  this,  first  obtain 
new,  clean  apple  barrels  of  the  standard  sizes ;  the 
standard  apple  barrel  contains  the  same  quantity 
as  a  flour  barrel,  and  the  dimensions  are  as  follows : 
173^  inches  diameter  of  head,  28^^  inches  length  of 
stave,  with  64-inch  bulge  outside  measurement. 
This  standard  size  was  adopted  by  the  then  Na- 
tional, now  International  Apple  Shippers'  Associa- 
tion in  1897,  and  has  been  made  the  legal  standards 
by  most  of  the  large  apple-growing  states. 

"  Having  secured  barrels  and  before  starting  to 
pack,  see  that  one  head  is  securely  nailed,  giving 
the  nails  a  slant,  so  the  points  will  not  puncture 
the  apples  when  put  in;  turn  this  nailed  head  down, 
loosen  the  hoops  of  the  other  head,  and  with  a  slight 
lick  of  the  hatchet  will  drop  in  the  barrel ;  take  it  out 
and  lay  it  alongside  the  barrel.  Now  you  are  ready 
to  begin  packing.  If  you  are  packing  such  varieties 
as  Ben  Davis,  York  Imperial,  Fallawater,  Baldwin, 
Greening,  or  other  kindred  sizes,  nothing  should  be 
put  in  the  number  ones  under  2>^  inches  in  diam- 
eter.    If  such  varieties  as  Rambo,  Grimes  Golden, 


ORCHARD   FRUITS 


55 


Romanlte,  Russet,  Winesap,  and  such  sized  apples, 
you  can  pack  in  number  ones  down  to  2^4  inches. 

"  To  begin  packing,  select  some  of  the  best  apples, 
wipe  them  off  clean  and  place  them  by  hand  with 
stem  end  down  all  around  and  over  the  entire  head ; 
this  is  called  single-facing.  If  you  wish  to  double- 
face,  place  another  row  of  apples  by  hand  on  top 

of  the  first  over  the 
spaces  between  those  on 
first  row.  After  having 
faced  the  barrel,  take  the 
balance  in  baskets  (a  4-8 
sheep-nose  basket  is  the 
best),  lower  the  first  two 
baskets  down  in  the  bar- 
rel, and  dump  carefully, 
so  as  not  to  disturb  the 
plate.  When  the  barrel  is 
half  full  give  it  a  gentle 
shake,  and  when  nearly 
full  a  good  shake,  then 
fill  up  to  the  top,  with 
about  half  an  inch  rise; 
then  lay  the  head  on  and 
with  the  arms  resting  on 
the  head,  shake  well. 
Now  use  the  press, 
pressing  the  head 
down  until  it  fits  into  the  chine,  drive  the  hoops 
down,  nail  securely,  take  from  under  the  press,  turn 
the  barrel  over,  and  mark  variety  of  apple  on  plated 
head.  It  is  best  to  do  this  as  each  barrel  is  packed, 
otherwise  you  are  likely  to  get  the  bottom  head 
marked,  which,  when  opened,  does  not  show  the 
fruit  off  to  advantage." 


BARREL    PRESSES 
1,  Screw  Press;   2,  Lever  Press. 


56  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

KEEPING  APPLES  IN  FARM  CELLARS 

"  I  believe  we  will  never  find  a  more  satisfactory 
package  in  which  to  store  apples  in  the  cellar  than 
the  barrel,"  writes  William  G.  Clifford  of  Illinois. 
"  It  is  tight  enough  to  keep  out  the  air,  and  the 
apples  are  thus  kept  from  drying  out  and  wilting. 
The  barrel  is  of  such  shape  that  one  barrel  cannot 
be  pushed  up  tight  against  another  and  circulation 
of  air  thus  prevented.  For  while  we  do  not  want 
circulation  of  air  among  the  apples  in  the  barrel, 
we  do  not  want  it  in  the  cellar  and  among  the 
apple  packages. 

"  If  the  apples  get  too  warm,  as  they  sometimes 
will  when  the  weather  is  warm  in  the  fall  and  early 
winter,  the  windows  can  be  opened  and  the  cold 
night  air  made  to  circulate  among  the  barrels. 
When  boxes  are  used  they  are  often  packed  so 
closely  that  the  air  does  not  get  in  to  cool  the  fruit. 

"  To  keep  apples  well  I  find  it  necessary  to  keep 
the  temperature  down  as  much  as  possible  during 
the  fall  and  early  winter.  In  midwinter  this  will 
about  look  out  for  itself,  in  this  latitude.  The  man 
who  has  only  one  cellar  under  his  house  will  have 
hard  work  keeping  his  apples  if  he  has  a  furnace 
or  any  kind  of  a  stove  in  it,  as  many  farmers  have. 
I  have  for  many  years  had  two  cellars,  in  only  one 
of  which  any  provision  for  heat  is  made. 

"  There  is  a  door  between  the  cellars,  and  to  in- 
sure that  the  door  is  always  kept  shut,  I  have  a 
rope  that  runs  over  a  block  and  has  a  heavy  weight 
at  the  end.  The  weight  shuts  the  door  as  soon  as 
one  lets  go  of  it.  The  windows  are  small,  and  late 
in  the  fall  I  put  on  the  second  set.  Several  of  these 
are  arranged  to  open,  and  these  are  kept  open  a 
great  deal  on  cold  days  and  nights  in  the  fall,  to  let 


BARTLETT,    THE   PEAR    FOR    THE    MILLIONS 


ORCHARD  FRUITS  57 

in  the  cold  air.  It  is  safe  to  take  chances  even 
with  heavy  frosts,  for  the  cold  would  have  to  be 
quite  severe  to  cool  the  cellar  sufficiently  to  do 
damage  in  a  single  night. 

"  By  giving  close  attention  to  cooling  and  aera- 
tion I  am  able  to  keep  my  apples  much  better  than 
I  could  in  the  old  days  when  I  had  but  one  cellar. 
However,  I  have  observed,  and  have  found  by  ex- 
perience, that  only  certain  varieties  of  apples  will 
keep  well.  The  most  careful  handling  will  not 
keep  the  fall  apples  very  long.  I\Iost  of  these  are 
gone  long  before  Christmas,  and  what  few  remain 
seem  to  have  lost  a  good  deal  of  their  flavor. 

"  Therefore,  my  advice  is  to  get  rid  of  the  fall 
apples  as  soon  as  possible,  and  put  all  the  effort 
into  keeping  the  winter  apples.  Some  of  the  winter 
apples  improve  with  keeping,  and  it  is  not  unusual 
to  have  apples  in  March  that  appear  of  better  flavor 
than  they  were  in  the  fall." 

DWARF  APPLES 

The  culture  of  dwarf  apples  commercially  has  not 
been  undertaken  to  any  large  extent  in  our  coun- 
try. For  many  years,  however,  dwarfs  have  been 
grown  in  private  gardens  on  country  estates  where 
a  few  choice  apples  of  high  quality  were  desired. 
Interest  has  been  awakened  in  trees  of  a  low  form, 
which  may  be  more  readily  reached  for  pruning 
and  gathering  of  the  fruit.  One  reason  for  the  in- 
creasing interest  in  dwarf  apple  trees  is  the  demand 
for  more  high  grade  fruit.  As  at  present  grown 
and  handled  on  standard  trees,  there  is  a  too  small 
proportion  of  fine  apples,  such  as  are  in  demand 
by  the  best  trade. 


58  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

There  are  two  types  of  dwarf  trees,  the  Paradise, 
which  in  character  is  a  strictly  dwarf  tree.  It  has 
a  small  root  system  and  in  most  varieties  does  not 
grow  above  8  or  9  feet  high.  This  has  been  used 
principally  in  gardens,  and  is  capable  of  being 
trained  in  various  ways  and  forms  upon  walls,  as 
is  largely  done  in  Europe,  and  upon  trellises  in  our 
own  country.  According  to  George  T.  Powell  of 
Columbia  county,  New  York,  the  Paradise  dwarf 
is  well  suited  to  gardens  and  to  places  where  land 
is  limited  and  where  but  few  trees  of  small  size  may 
be  planted.  The  trees  come  into  bearing  very 
early,  and  are  desirable  on  this  account.  Mr. 
Powell  has  had  the  Cox  Orange  Pippin  set  fruit 
on  these  trees  at  one  year  old,  and  the  Red  Astra- 
chan  at  two  years,  while  at  three  years  he  has  had 
as  many  as  60  apples  set  on  a  single  tree. 

*'  The  other  type  of  dwarf  apple  with  which  I  am 
vv^orking,"  says  Mr.  Powell,  "  is  that  propagated  on 
roots  of  the  Doucin,  which,  in  character,  is  a  semi- 
dwarf  growing  from  16  to  18  feet  high.  This  tree 
gives  promise  of  having  value  in  commercial  or- 
chards, for  it  will  have  capacity  for  setting  a  liberal 
quantity  of  fruit. 

"  The  root  system  being  small,  dwarf  trees  need 
to  be  planted  deeper  than  standards.  The  union 
between  the  bud  and  the  stock  should  be  set  4  to  5 
inches  below  the  level  of  the  ground.  With  this 
deep  planting  the  question  will  arise.  Will  not  the 
budded  stock  throw  out  roots  above  the  union,  and 
change  the  trees  into  standards?  While  we  are  not 
far  enough  along  in  our  work  to  know  about  this, 
we  do  not  anticipate  difficulty  from  this  source. 
From  experience  with  dwarf  pear  trees,  our  judg- 
ment is  that  by  pruning  the  size  and  form  of  the 
apple  trees  may  be  successfully  controlled. 


ORCHARD  FRUITS  59 

"  The  influence  of  the  dwarf  root  of  these  trees 
will  dominate  the  stock  very  largely,  even  if  a  few 
roots  should  push  out  from  above  the  union.  The 
deep  planting  I  consider  highly  important,  for  we 
intend  to  develop  trees  of  bearing  capacity,  hence 
we  shall  increase  their  size,  keeping  them  low,  but 
spreading  out  the  side  branches,  giving  a  heavy 
bush  form. 

"  In  our  first  planting  of  a  block  of  200  Astrachan 
trees  we  made  this  mistake,  and  at  three  years  from 
the  time  they  were  set,  by  building  up  the  large 
bush  form,  when  loaded  with  fruit  as  they  were  that 
year,  we  found  them  tipping  over  when  the  soil 
was  very  soft  and  wet  after  heavy  rains.  As  we 
were  anxious  to  make  the  proof  of  the  value  of  these 
trees  for  commercial  planting  as  soon  as  possible, 
instead  of  taking  them  up  and  planting  deeper,  we 
had  them  heavily  banked  to  hold  them  in  place,  and 
think  they  will  carry  a  full  crop  of  fruit  through 
the  coming  season  without  difficulty. 

"  In  England  and  France  the  Paradise  trees  are 
frequently  planted  6  feet  apart  each  way.  The  soil 
is  very  heavily  fertilized,  and  the  pruning  is  very 
close.  With  this  close  planting  flowers  and  small 
fruits  are  frequently  grown  between  the  trees,  and 
this  is  the  reason  for  the  very  heavy  fertilizing 
done.  We  are  planting  the  Doucin,  or  half  dwarf 
trees,  20  feet  apart  each  way,  and  the  Paradise 
between  one  way  at  10  feet.  Another  plan  is  plant- 
ing standard  trees  40  feet  apart  each  way,  and  inter- 
planting  with  Doucin  dwarfs  as  fillers,  20  feet  each 
way.  After  working  with  this  plan,  I  am  inclined 
to  change  the  distances,  setting  standards  50  feet 
each  way,  Doucin  dwarfs  as  fillers  25  feet  and 
Paradise  dwarfs  one  way  at  12^  feet. 


60  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

"  For  Paradise  trees  only  the  varieties  of  highest 
quality  should  be  planted,  suitable  for  box  packing. 
This  would  include  Esopus  Spitzenburg,  Jonathan, 
Newtown  Pippin,  Cox  Orange,  Mcintosh,  Grimes, 
Chenango,  and  Fall  Strawberry.  For  the  Doucin, 
a  wider  variety  may  be  selected.  Spy,  Baldwin, 
Rhode  Island  Greening,  Russet,  Fall  Pippin, 
Duchess,  Wealthy,  Twenty  Ounce,  Astrachan, 
Bailey  Sweet,  and  other  popular  kinds,  in  addition 
to  the  list  for  Paradise  trees." 

THE  APRICOT 

This  fruit  is  managed  In  practically  the  same  way 
as  the  peach.  It  is  far  less  appreciated  on  the  farm 
than  it  should  be,  mainly  because  it  is  frequently 
planted  in  places  exposed  to  the  sun,  which  hastens 
blooming.  Often,  in  such  situations,  the  blossoms 
are  nipped  by  early  frost  and  no  fruit  results.  It 
is  desirable,  therefore,  to  plant  this  fruit  on  north- 
ern slopes  and  places  shaded  from  the  early  morn- 
ing sun,  so  as  to  retard  blossoming.  The  fruit  has 
a  plum-like  pit.  The  foliage  is  more  like  the  plum 
than  the  peach.     (See  Peach.) 

THE  CHERRY 

In  recent  years  the  high  prices  for  which  cherries 
have  sold  have  put  this  very  desirable  fruit  in  the 
list  of  luxuries.  According  to  George  T.  Powell  of 
Columbia  county.  New  York,  "  this  applies  par- 
ticularly to  sweet  cherries.  It  has  been  difficult  to 
get  orchards  of  sweet  cherries  started  and  estab- 
lished. There  are  two  kinds  of  stock  used  in  prop- 
agating sweet  cherries — the  Mazzard  and  the 
Mahaleb.     The  Mahaleb  works  easier,  but  the  tree 


ORCHARD  FRUITS  6l 

is  shorter  lived,  while  the  union  between  bud  and 
stock  is  not  always  good.  If  trees  can  be  had  on 
Mazzard  stock  they  will  be  much  better.  It  is 
better  to  plant  small  trees,  one  and  two  years  old. 
They  suffer  less  in  removal  from  the  nursery,  and 
will  be  more  certain  to  grow. 

"  The  site  for  a  cherry  orchard  should  be  elevated 
and  a  north  or  west  exposure  chosen.  Free  circula- 
tion of  air  is  necessary,  as  the  fruit  will  rot  much 
less  under  such  conditions.  Never  plant  in  hollow 
or  low  places,  as  the  fruit  will  be  practically  lost 
every  year  by  rot  in  such  places.  The  soil  should 
be  good,  but  not  too  rich,  as  the  trees  grow  lux- 
uriantly, and  their  bodies  crack  and  burst  on  rich 
soil.  They  should  be  branched  low  in  forming  the 
tops  of  the  trees,  as  they  will  grow  50  feet  high. 
For  two  years  the  soil  should  be  cultivated,  or 
until  the  trees  are  well  established  and  are  making 
good  growth ;  after  that  they  will  do  better  to  be 
left  in  sod,  cutting  the  grass  and  letting  it  lie  upon 
the  ground  as  a  mulch. 

"  The  trees  need  only  slight  pruning,  sufficient 
to  give  them  well-balanced  heads.  After  five  years 
little  or  no  pruning  will  be  required,  if  they  are 
well  formed  by  that  time.  The  Black  Tartarian 
and  Black  Eagle  are  among  the  finest  varieties,  but 
they  are  half  hardy  only,  and  should  not  be  planted 
where  the  mercury  goes  to  12  degrees  below  zero. 

"  The  Yellow  Spanish,  Windsor,  Robert's  Red 
Heart,  Downer's  Late  Red,  are  among  the  best 
varieties  to  plant  for  home  use  or  for  market.  We 
have  picked  400  pounds  of  Robert's  Red  Heart  from 
one  tree  and  sold  the  fruit  for  $40.  At  present  it 
would  readily  sell  for  $80. 

"  In  picking  sweet  cherries  much  injury  is  often 
done  to  the  trees  by  breaking  off  the  slender  spurs 


162  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

Upon  which  the  fruit  is  borne.  The  yield  is  fre- 
quently reduced  one-third  or  more  from  this  cause. 
The  culture  of  the  sweet  cherry  may  be  made  ex- 
ceedingly profitable  if  its  requirements  are  care- 
fully observed. 

"  The  sour  cherries  are  more  universally  planted, 
for  they  are  hardier  and  more  easily  grown.  They 
are  somewhat  dwarfed  in  character  and  do  not 
make  as  large  trees.  While  the  sweet  cherries  re- 
quire 30  feet  space  each  way,  the  sour  varieties 
may  be  planted  16  to  18  feet.  These  should  be  two 
years  of  age  when  planted. 

"  The  Alay  Duke  is  one  of  the  best  and  most 
desirable  for  an  early  market  variety.  Reine  Hor- 
tense  is  also  good,  but  for  the  general  market  and 
for  all  purposes  the  large  Montmorency  is  the  most 
profitable.  Sour  cherries  will  do  well  in  fairly  rich 
moist  soil.  Cultivation  will  be  well  for  them  a 
part  of  the  time,  every  other  year  seeding  to  clover 
for  a  cover  crop  to  occupy  the  land  for  one  year. 

"  The  sour  cherries  are  used  extensively  for  can- 
ning. They  are  picked  in  lo-pound  baskets  and 
carefully  assorted  into  8-pound  baskets,  also  in 
strawberry  quarts,  and  shipped.  One  cent  a 
pound  is  paid  for  picking  and  women  are  paid  10 
to  12  cents  an  hour  for  assorting  and  packing.  The 
sour  cherries  sell  for  6  to  9  cents  a  pound,  and  as 
150  trees  may  be  planted  upon  an  acre,  and  they 
will,  at  15  years,  average  100  to  125  pounds  to  a 
tree,  they  are  one  of  the  most  profitable  fruits 
grown." 

Concerning  varieties,  S.  D.  Willard  of  Ontario 
county.  New  York,  writes :  "  I  have  had  30  years' 
experience  in  growing  cherries,  and  during  this  time 
have  found  the  following  varieties  best  adapted 
to  the  clay  loam  of  my  farm:     Early  Richmond, 


ORCHARD  FRUITS  63 

Montmorency,  Windsor,  Rockport,  Napoleon,  Yellow 
Spanish,  and  English  Morello.  Except  for  remov- 
ing interlocking  or  dead  limbs  I  do  not  prune  the 
trees,  which  are,  however,  trained  when  small  so 
as  to  form  well-shaped  heads.  AVhen  properly 
opened  by  judicious  arrangement  of  the  branches, 
so  as  to  admit  light  and  air,  there  is  rarely  occasion 
for  spraying. 

"  On  recently  planted  trees  I  give  no  cultivation, 
because  it  is  the  general  opinion  that  bearing  cherry 
trees  do  best  in  sod.  No  commercial  fertilizer  is 
given.  In  the  order  of  ripening,  Early  Richmond, 
a  sour  variety,  is  first,  then  comes  Rockport,  a 
sweet  cherry.  Picking  is  begun  usually  about  the 
middle  of  June  and  the  crop  is  shipped  in  8  and 
lo-pound  baskets.  The  price  usually  ranges  from 
5  to  10  cents  a  pound.  Sweet  cherries  are  generally 
set  25  to  30  feet  apart,  and  sour  20  feet.  If  pos- 
sible, a  new  orchard  should  be  planted  in  the  fall, 
but  if  this  cannot  be  done,  it  is  better  to  buy  trees 
in  the  autumn  and  hold  for  spring  planting,  as  it  is 
next  to  impossible  to  have  trees  dug  and  shipped 
in  the  spring  before  the  buds  swell,  and  the  vitality 
of  the  cherry  trees  is  always  injured  if  growth  is 
commenced  before  the  trees  are  dug." 

"As  soon  as  ground  is  dry  in  the  spring,"  says 
C.  K.  Scoon  of  Ontario  county.  New  York,  "  I  use 
a  gang  plow  in  the  cherry  orchard,  going  down 
2  or  3  inches.  Care  should  be  taken  not  to  go 
deeper  than  this,  as  the  cherry  roots  are  near  the 
surface.  The  orchard  is  harrowed  once  a  week, 
or  often  enough  to  keep  the  weeds  down  and  a  fine 
mulch  on  the  surface,  until  the  crop  ripens.  I  then 
sow  a  cover  crop  or  let  grass  and  weeds  cover  the 
ground.  For  a  fertilizer,  I  formerly  used  potash 
and  phosphoric  acid,  but  I  am  convinced  that  my 


64  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

soil  does  not  need  potash.  I  now  use  phosphoric 
acid  only,  at  the  rate  of  3  or  4  pounds  a  tree, 
sowed  broadcast  in  the  spring  and  harrowed  in. 

"  Of  varieties  I  have  found  Montmorency  and 
English  Morello  are  the  only  kinds  of  special  value. 
They  are  the  only  kinds  I  grow  to  any  extent. 
Montmorency  ripens  about  July  6  and  the  other 
variety  about  ten  days  later.  Some  of  my  larger 
trees  have  yielded  150  pounds,  but  half  of  this 
amount  is  considered  a  good  crop." 

THE  NECTARINE 

Nectarines  are  smooth-skinned  peaches,  and  often 
come  from  peach  pits  or  as  bud  sports  on  peach 
trees.  Usually  they  are  inferior  to  peaches,  but 
several  varieties  are  cultivated  more  for  curiosity 
than  anything  else.  (See  Peach  for  methods  of 
management.) 

NUTS 

In  California  the  almond  and  the  English  walnut 
are  grown  commercially,  and  in  the  South  the 
pecan  has  been  planted  in  extensive  groves  within 
the  last  15  or  20  years.  In  many  of  the  states  the 
chestnut  has  been  growing  in  favor  for  commercial 
purposes,  and,  in  a  few  cases,  hardy  English  wal- 
nuts have  proved  profitable.  The  American  and 
European  varieties  of  chestnuts  are  generally  con- 
sidered superior  in  flavor  to  the  Japanese  varieties. 
The  Europeans,  though  larger,  are  not  of  as  high 
quality  as  our  best  American  sorts.  These  varieties 
may  be  secured  from  nurserymen  at  moderate  cost. 


ORCHARD  FRUITS  65 

CHESTNUT 

Chestnuts,  as  a  rule,  do  well  on  light  soil.  They 
are  rapid  growers  and  make  magnificent  shade 
trees  if  given  plenty  of  room.  It  is  advisable  to 
plant  in  groves  or  avenues  to  insure  fertilization  of 
the  blossoms.  They  should  be  planted  not  less 
than  50  feet  apart.  ^lany  of  the  varieties  come 
into  bearing  under  ten  years,  and  some  of  them 
will  even  bear  a  few  nuts  at  five  years.  They  add 
considerably  to  the  beauty  of  the  home  grounds 
if  well  placed,  and  also  pay  a  tribute  in  the  form  of 
nuts,  which,  in  many  places,  can  be  sold  very 
readily. 

"  I  have  been  raising  chestnuts  for  some  years," 
writes  Horace  Roberts  of  Burlington  county,  New 
Jersey.  "  When  I  was  a  very  young  man  the  busi- 
ness was  new,  so  I  began  in  a  small  way,  not  put- 
ting money  in  it  at  all.  Such  a  thing  as  grafting 
chestnuts  was  rare  at  that  time.  I  went  into  the 
pine  woods  where  there  were  seedling  chestnuts, 
cut  trees  out  of  the  way,  put  a  fence  around  a  ten- 
acre  plot  and  let  the  cattle  come  in  to  help  do  the 
trimming,  in  this  way  working  at  a  minimum  ex- 
pense. 

"  Where  one  can  raise  apples  or  peaches  or  nice 
fruits  I  think  it  is  not  worth  while  to  plant  chestnut 
trees.  There  is  more  money  in  the  fruits.  My 
land  was  not  paying  anything,  so  the  little  care  I 
gave  it  at  that  time  produced  a  nice  chestnut  grove, 
which  makes  the  farm  more  attractive  and  at  the 
same  time  brings  in  revenue.  Chestnut  trees  are 
worth  a  good  deal  to  the  farm  as  a  home  maker, 
because  conditions  in  the  farmyard  seem  to  suit 
them ;  chickens  destroy  the  weevils  and  nothing 
will  make  a  child  more  attached  to  its  home  than 


66  MAKING   HORTICULTURE  PAY 

to  gather  chestnuts  as  one  of  the  ways  to  earn  a 
little  pin  money. 

^'  I  have  practiced  only  one  form  of  grafting,  viz., 
the  ordinary  cleft,  the  same  as  is  used  in  grafting 
the  apple.  The  twigs  are  cut  early  in  February 
and  put  in  the  icehouse  so  as  to  be  held  back.  By 
April  20,  when  we  are  done  with  other  grafting,  we 
start  with  chestnuts.  Alany  scions  die  back,  but 
we  keep  working  away  year  after  year  until  we  get 
a  stand.  The  chestnuts  have  always  paid.  I  en- 
joyed the  work  at  once  and  began  to  sell  wood  for 
grafting,  and  very  soon  began  to  derive  revenue 
from  the  nuts.  The  sprouts  on  which  grafting  is 
done  are  cut  about  as  high  up  as  my  eyes';  at  that 
height  they  are  about  as  thick  as  my  two  fingers. 
This  size  heals  over  much  more  readily  than  larger 
sizes.  In  this  respect  the  chestnut  is  more  difficult 
to  graft  than  apples.  I  care  for  my  chestnut  trees 
at  odd  times  with  ordinary  farm  help.  I  was  able 
to  buy  a  large  orchard  adjoining  me  a  few  years 
ago  for  a  good  deal  less  than  the  owner  had  spent 
on  it.     It  has  paid  me  well. 

"  Up  to  the  present  time  we  do  not  understand 
how  to  keep  or  cure  the  nuts,  but  are  learning.  One 
of  our  great  troubles  is  the  worm.  I  found  in  treat- 
ing the  nuts  with  carbon  disulphide  it  did  the  work. 
As  soon  as  gathered  the  nuts  are  put  in  a  barrel 
and  a  saucer  with  four  or  five  tablespoonfuls  of 
liquid  placed  at  the  top  of  the  barrel,  which  is  then 
closed  up  tight.  After  three  or  four  hours  the 
barrel  is  opened  and  the  nuts  dumped  on  the  pack- 
ing house  floor  to  air.  To  be  sure,  the  worms  are 
there  just  the  same,  but  the  buyers  do  not  object, 
because  the  w^orms  do  not  come  out  and  crawl  all 
over  their  stores. 


ORCHARD   FRUITS  dj 

"  By  treating  and  packing  the  nuts  at  once  the 
worms  do  not  seem  to  develop.  That  simple 
remedy  costs  less  than  2  cents  a  bushel  as  we  apply 
it.  Customers  come  back  to  us  now  for  more 
chestnuts  even  at  advanced  prices.  They  are  very 
much  encouraged  over  the  business.  Last  year  the 
revenue  would  make  a  good  rent  for  the  farm  they 
grew  on  and  a  minimum  expense  on  land  where  I 
cannot  raise  anything  else.  Some  neighbors  who 
have  gone  into  the  business  as  a  specialty  have  not 
succeeded  so  well.  It  is  much  better  to  feel  one's 
way  in  this  business  than  to  embark  in  it  largely. 

"  At  first  the  new  Japanese  chestnuts  were  a 
novelty  and  the  bigger  they  were  the  better  they 
sold.  Bitter  nuts  sold  just  as  well  as  the  other 
kind  on  account  of  size,  but  people  have  learned 
better,  and  large  nuts  are  now  hard  to  sell.  Our 
chief  varieties  are  Cooper,  Paragon,  Numbo,  and 
Scott.  Most  of  my  grafting  has  been  with  suckers, 
but  if  I  wanted  to  start  with  nuts  I  would  recom- 
mend home  growing  rather  than  buying  nursery 
trees,  because  these  frequently  die.  A  nice  way  is  to 
start  the  native  sweet  chestnuts  in  flower  pots.  Nut 
trees  have  tap  roots  which  make  them  difficult  to 
transplant,  but  by  putting  them  in  pots  or  kegs  one 
can  control  the  tap  root ;  besides  the  pots  can  be 
set  in  the  garden  in  convenient  places  and  protected 
easily  during  the  first  year,  after  which  they  may 
be  put  in  their  permanent  positions." 

ENGLISH  WALNUT 

Several  varieties  of  English  walnut  have  proved 
hardy  in  New  Jersey,  western  New  York,  Penn- 
sylvania, Ohio,  and  southward,  as  well  as  in  Cali- 
fornia.    Some  of  these  varieties  are  listed  by  seed- 


68  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

men,  but  it  is  only  recently  that  attention  has  been 
drawn  to  their  hardiness.  A.  C.  Pomeroy  of 
Niagara  county,  New  York,  has  several  trees,  more 
than  30  years  old.  These  bring  him  a  nice  little 
sum  of  money  each  year.  They  are  the  most  north- 
erly successful  trees  the  editor  knows  of. 

ENGLISH  WALNUTS  IN  NEW  YORK 

Mr.  Pomeroy  writes:  "In  1876  my  father,  while 
visiting  the  Centennial  Exposition,  secured  some  fine 
English  walnuts  from  a  large  tree  at  Philadelphia. 
These  he  planted  on  his  return  home.  In  due  time 
they  all  produced  shoots,  and,  though  at  first 
slowly,  they  grew  into  strong,  wide-spreading  trees 
which  bear  profitable  crops.  The  older  and  full- 
grown  trees  bear  an  average  of  about  20  bushels 
annually.  The  largest  of  these  measures  46  feet 
across.  As  walnuts  retail  at  about  20  cents  a 
pound,  these  crops  are  worth  $125  each  tree  in  the 
final  market. 

"  The  trees  have  glossy  green  leaves,  and  are 
cleanly  at  all  times,  thus  forming  beautiful  and 
serviceable  shade  trees  as  well  as  profitable  ones. 
Frost  has  not  hurt  our  trees,  as  it  does  those  grown 
from  California  or  imported  nuts.  I  know  of  such 
trees  near  here  30  years  old  that  freeze  back  every 
severe  winter.  They  are  only  10  or  12  feet  high, 
and  have  not  borne  nuts  yet.  My  brother  and  I 
have  propagated  this  variety,  which  Prof.  H.  E. 
Van  Deman  named  Norman  Pomeroy  in  honor  of 
my  father.  They  have  often  stood  temperatures  of 
10  to  15  degrees  below  zero  without  damage. 

"  Preferably  the  nuts  are  planted  in  autumn.  The 
sprouts  will  grow  about  a  foot  the  first  year,  and 
for  the   first   three   years   grow   slowly.     The   first 


ORCHARD    FRUITS  69 

year  is  the  best  for  transplanting,  as  when  older, 
the  growth  becomes  much  more  rapid.  Up  to 
three  years  of  age  they  rarely  exceed  4  feet. 

"  When  set  in  the  orchard  they  should  be  set  40 
to  50  feet  apart  each  way,  and  the  ground  planted 
to  some  cultivated  crop  such  as  corn  or  potatoes. 
Peaches  or  plums  may  be  used  to  advantage  as 
fillers.  The  best  time  to  prune  is  between  fall  and 
spring.  Only  such  branches  should  be  removed 
from  the  main  trunk  as  would  interfere  with  till- 
age. Removal  of  these  will  keep  the  young  tree 
growing  erect,  and  should  be  continued  only  until 
the  trunk  is  6  or  7  feet  high  without  limbs.  If 
planted  in  the  lawn  the  ground  should  be  kept 
spaded  3  feet  around  the  base  of  the  trunk,  and 
during  the  first  summer  in  very  dry  weather  the 
soil  should  be  drenched  in  the  evening  with  water 
two  or  three  times  a  week.  In  the  morning  the 
surface  should  be  raked  to  break  the  crust.  Ordi- 
narily bearing  starts  at  five  or  six  years  and  con- 
tinues annually.  Transplanted  trees  start  to  bear 
when  three  or  four  years  set.  In  my  experience 
trees  bear  sooner  and  oftener  if  planted  in  groups 
of  three  to  six.  This  is  probably  because  the 
pollen  has  a  better  chance  to  reach  the  pistils.  The 
staminate  blossoms  on  individual  trees  open  at 
slightly  different  times  and  thus  insure  better  fer- 
tilization of  the  pistillate  blossoms." 

OTHER  NUTS 

Hazel  nuts  are  scarcely  ever  cultivated  in 
America.  They  are  generally  allowed  to  grow  in 
the  fence  rows  where  they  yield  sufficient  nuts  to 
supply  home  needs.  They  do  best  on  dry,  sandy 
soil,  not  too  rich. 


70  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

Hickories  of  various  kinds,  butternuts,  and  Amer- 
ican walnuts  are  rarely  cultivated.  They  all  make 
useful  and  valuable  trees  for  ornamental  purposes 
or  for  timber  and  yield  more  or  less  nuts  each  year. 
They  are  rather  slow  in  growth,  but  are  well  worth 
having  to  beautify  the  place  as  well  as  to  add  to  the 
variety  of  fruit  for  the  home  table.  These  nuts  all 
have  more  or  less  value  in  the  markets,  so  that  any 
surplus  can  easily  be  disposed  of. 

THE  PEACH 

In  favorable  localities  the  peach  may  be  grown 
from  Connecticut  to  Florida  and  westward,  except 
in  the  coldest  locations  among  the  mountains,  to 
the  Pacific  coast.  In  cold  localities  it  is  generally 
placed   in  sheltered  situations  where  the  sun  will 


FRUIT     HARVESTING    LADDERS 

not  strike  the  buds  too  strongly  during  winter,  and 
thus  make  them  swell  and  freeze.  The  north  side 
of  a  hill  is  better  than  any  other  exposure  in  cold 
localities.  Proximity  to  lakes  and  rivers  is  also 
favorable,  provided  the  trees  are  not  set  on  low 
ground. 

The  peach  does  best  on  light  soils,  but  will  suc- 
ceed fairly  well  on  even  heavy  ones.     The  trees,  as 


ORCHARD   FRUITS  7I 

a  rule,  are  short-lived.  Seldom  do  they  last  in  com- 
mercial plantations  beyond  the  tenth  year.  They 
come  into  bearing  at  three  or  four  years  and  begin 
to  bear  profitably  at  five.  In  some  localities  they  bear 
only  two  or  three  good  crops  before  they  begin  to 
decline.  In  others  they  may  last  for  20  years  when 
properly  cared  for.  Instances  are  recorded  in 
western  New  York  where  trees  have  borne  fruit 
for  40  or  even  50  years,  but  commercially  such 
trees  would  usually  not  be  considered  profitable. 

In  starting  a  peach  orchard,  trees  one  year  old 
from  the  bud  should  be  given  preference  to  older 
ones.  They  should  be  set  18  to  20  feet  apart  in 
the  orchards  and  pruned  to  a  whip  so  that  the  scaf- 
fold branches  may  be  secured  close  to  the  ground. 
Only  three  or  four  such  branches  should  be  allowed 
to  grow.  These  should  be  well  distributed,  not 
in  the  form  of  Y-crotches,  because  these  are  apt  to 
split  when  the  trees  are  loaded  with  fruit.  If  the 
branches  are  well  placed,  they  will  make  trees  with 
well-rounded  tops.  Correct  pruning  will  help  to 
keep  the  form  vase-like.  Little  wood  should  be 
allowed  on  the  inside  of  the  tree.  Each  year  the 
annual  growth  should  be  cut  back  one-half  to  two- 
thirds,  depending  upon  the  position  of  the  fruit 
buds.  These  buds  can  readily  be  recognized,  be- 
cause they  are  blunt,  not  sharp  pointed  as  the  leaf 
buds  are.  Normally  they  appear  in  pairs  with  a 
leaf  bud  between  them  on  the  main  stems  and  also 
singly  on  short  fruit  spurs  at  various  irregular 
places.  The  fruit  spurs  should  not  be  pruned,  be- 
cause they  last  only  two  or  three  years,  and  do 
nothing  but  bear  fruit.  It  is  the  extending  shoots 
that  should  be  cut  back  annually.  By  this  annual 
pruning,  the  amount  of  fruit  can   be  kept   within 


72  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

bounds  and  thus  the  necessity  of  thinning  can  be 
avoided  to  a  large  extent. 

From  the  very  beginning  the  ground  should  be 
kept  cleanly  cultivated  until  midsummer,  when  a 
cover  crop  of  crimson  clover  should  be  sown.  This 
must  be  plowed  under  early  the  following  spring. 
If  the  trees  are  making  too  much  wood  growth  in 
any  year,  it  will  be  best  to  substitute  rye  or  buck- 
wheat, for  the  clover  crop  is  a  cover  crop.  Many 
peach  growers  plant  tomatoes,  potatoes,  cantaloups 
or  other  cultivated  crops  in  the  young  orchard  for 
the  first  two  or  three  years  in  order  to  help  pay  the 
cost  of  cultivation.  It  is  disputed  among  growers 
whether  this  is  an  advantage  or  a  disadvantage  to 
the  orchard  itself. 

Rarely  is  it  necessary  to  give  the  peach  orchard 
any  more  strong  fertilizer  than  is  furnished  by  the 
clover.  Nitrogenous  manures  should  not  be  used. 
Potash  and  phosphoric  acid  are  necessary,  espe- 
cially when  the  trees  are  coming  into  bearing. 
These  fertilizers  may  be  given  in  any  amount,  de- 
pending upon  the  character  of  the  soil,  and  the 
grower's  pocketbook. 

PEACH    PRUNING   AND   TRAINING 

"At  the  Paragon  orchards,"  writes  Dr.  J.  H. 
Funk  of  Berks  county,  Pennsylvania,  "  all  peach 
roots  are  pruned  to  about  5  inches;  the  trees  are 
then  set  about  i  inch  deeper  than  they  stood  in 
the  nursery.  The  tops  are  pruned  before  or  im- 
mediately after  planting;  all  side  limbs  are  re- 
moved, and  the  stem  cut  back  to  10  or  12  inches. 
I  prefer  a  medium-sized  tree,  as  there  are  no  large 
limbs,  but  plenty  of  dormant  buds  to  form  a  fine, 


ORCHARD  FRUITS  73 

uniform  top.     The  shoots  coming  from  these  buds 
give  the  foundation  upon  which  to  build. 

"  Very  little  pruning  is  required  the  first  summer, 
but  the  following  spring  is  the  time  to  select  the 
foundation  branches.  Four  or  five  coming  from 
different  directions  on  the  stem 
should  be  left  to  form  a  symmetrical 
top ;  all  others  should  be  removed, 
and  the  foundation  branches  cut 
back  one-half  to  two-thirds,  accord- 
ing to  the  vigor.  Never  leave  these 
I  limbs  in  such  a  position  that  they 
^^(^  form  a  crotch.  This  is  likely  to 
split  and  ruin  the  tree.  Very  vigor- 
ous trees  will  require  some  pruning 
during  the  summer. 
T>T>TT>TTXT.-  "  If  the  trees  have  been  properly 

PRUNING  11     1        1  1         111  11 

YOUNG  PE\CH  h^"*^^^*^  they  should  be  well  set 
with  stout,  healthy  buds,  and 
should  produce  an  average  of  half  a  bushel  of  choice 
fruit  the  third  season.  The  pruning  now  should 
not  be  so  severe.  I  thin  out  the  branches  that 
crowd  and  cross  each  other,  cut  back  those  branches 
growing  too  tall,  cutting  above  an  outside  bud  to 
give  spread  to  the  top.  Cut  the  lateral  branches 
just  sufficient  to  cause  new  growth  among  the  main 
limbs,  thus  keeping  the  entire  side  of  the  tree  in 
fruiting  condition.  Should  any  portion  of  the  tree 
become  too  thick  to  admit  free  circulation  of  air  and 
sunshine,  then  thin  out  any  time  fruit  is  maturing. 
"  Future  pruning  is  conducted  on  the  same  prin- 
ciples, keeping  the  top  open  and  spreading,  and  all 
bottom  and  lateral  limbs  in  good  fruiting  condition. 
I  never  remove  bottom  limbs  unless  compelled  to 
do  so.  If  pruned  as  they  should  be,  they  will  pro- 
duce heavy  crops  for  many  years. 


74  MAKING   HORTICULTURE  PAY 

"  I  have  a  peach  orchard  five  years  old,  and 
trained  by  this  method,  that  has  but  fev;^  equals. 
•When  in  its  third  year  it  produced  one-half  bushel 
of  really  choice  fruit  to  the  tree.  The  next  year  it 
produced  three  baskets  to  the  tree,  and  in  its  fifth 
year  it  produced  four  baskets  to  the  tree.  The 
proceeds  from  these  three  crops  averaged  over 
$1,400  an  acre,  and  the  orchard  is  just  coming  into 
prime  bearing." 

As  to  harvesting,  W.  G.  Gano  of  Platte  county, 
Missouri,  says :  "  I  pick  my  fruit  in  peck  baskets, 
picking  nothing  but  the  perfect,  well-matured  fruit, 
and  just  as  the  specimen  is  beginning  to  soften,  so 
that  by  the  next  morning  it  is  ready  for  the  retail 
trade.  The  peach  is  a  perishable  fruit,  and  to  en- 
joy its  rich,  luscious,  saccharine  taste,  which  it  can 
only  acquire  by  fully  maturing  on  the  tree,  it  must 
have  a  near  market  and  quick  and  careful  convey- 
ance for  the  consumer  to  enjoy  all  of  these  quali- 
ties, which  make  it  at  once  the  most  luscious, 
healthful,  and  popular  fruit  in  our  market. 

"  In  hot  weather  I  aim  to  pick  each  tree  every 
day,  and  never  longer  than  every  other  day,  and  I 
am  from  two  to  four  weeks  in  handling  every 
variety.  One  year  I  was  four  weeks  handling  my 
Elbertas,  and  picked  peaches  six  days  in  the  week. 
I  try  to  have  trusty,  experienced  men  for  my  pick- 
ers, and  for  the  packers  I  prefer  girls." 

Concerning  varieties,  W.  A.  Cooper  of  Ottawa 
county,  Ohio,  writes :  "  The  hardiest  varieties  I 
have  tested  are  Salway,  Smock,  Elberta,  IMountain 
Rose,  Oldmixon,  and  Lemon  Free.  The  most 
profitable  early  sorts  with  me  are  Mountain  Rose, 
Early  Crawford,  and  Early  St.  John,  while  the  most 
profitable  mid-season  fruits  are  Briner,  Elberta, 
Lemon  Free,  and  Francis.     Our  best  late  varieties 


ORCHARD    FRUITS  75 

are  Smock  and  Salway.  The  most  promising 
newer  varieties  in  this  section  are  Francis  and 
Emma." 

THE  PEAR 

There  are  two  principal  classes  of  pears — the 
European  and  the  Chinese.  All  of  our  finely  fla- 
vored varieties  belong  to  the  former  class.  The 
Chinese  group  contains  such  undesirable  though 
extensively  grown  varieties  as  Kieffer,  Le  Conte, 
and  Garber.  No  self-respecting  person  would  have 
any  one  of  these  varieties  in  his  home  orchard,  and 
no  man  who  seeks  to  do  unto  others  as  he  would 
be  done  by  will  be  tempted  to  plant  them.  They 
have  been  overplanted  in  many  sections,  and,  while 
profitable  at  first,  have  been  growing  less  popular 
annually,  so  that  the  price  paid  for  them  is  steadily 
falling.  The  Kieffer  is  often  sold  in  cans  bearing 
the  label  Bartlett.  This  is  the  strongest  recom- 
mendation for  the  Bartlett  that  could  be  desired. 
There  is  no  comparison  between  the  two  varieties. 
Of  course,  if  one  is  living  in  a  section  where  the 
European  pears  do  not  thrive  the  Chinese  varieties 
may  be  used  as  a  substitute  for  respectable  fruit, 
but  no  one  who  enjoys  pears  will  enjoy  them. 

The  European  pears  do  best  on  a  rather  stiff  soil ; 
the  Chinese  on  lighter  ground.  The  land  should 
be  well  drained,  but  well  supplied  with  moisture. 
Dwarf  pears  should  have  richer,  deeper,  loamier 
soil  than  the  European,  and,  if  the  soil  is  heavier, 
so  much  the  better.  Standard  pears  should  be  set 
20  to  25  feet  apart  each  way;  dwarfs  12  to  15  feet. 
Dwarf  pears  are  so  made  by  grafting  upon  quince 
roots.  By  special  pruning  they  may  be  kept  10  or 
12  feet  high,  otherwise  their   management   is   the 


^6  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

same  as  the  standards.  It  is  usual  to  cut  off  one- 
half  to  two-thirds  of  the  annual  growth  except  on 
fruit-bearing  spurs;  surplus  shoots  should  also  be 
removed. 

Among  the  many  varieties  listed  by  nurserymen, 
the  following  are  considered  superior :  Tyson, 
Summer  Doyenne,  Clapp,  and  Bartlett.  These  will 
cover  the  season  in  western  New  York  from  about 
August  I  to  the  middle  of  September. 

Autumn — Boussock,  Flemish  Beauty,  Buffum, 
Howell,  Louise  Bonne,  Seckel,  Duchess,  and  Shel- 
don. These  carry  on  the  season  from  mid-Septem- 
ber until  about  mid-November. 

Winter — Anjou,  Clairgeau,  Lawrence,  Bosc,  and 
Winter  Nellis.  These  will  carry  the  season  until 
after  Christmas  with  ordinary  storage. 

For  market,  Bartlett,  Howell,  Anjou,  and  Law- 
rence are  perhaps  the  most  generally  profitable. 

RENOVATING  UNPROFITABLE  PEAR 
TREES 

"  Do  not  cut  down  a  pear  tree  unless  trees  are 
growing  too  near  together,"  says  F.  Coombs  of 
Berkshire  county,  Massachusetts.  "  Apple  trees 
have  their  day,  and  the  time  comes  when  they 
should  be  removed,  but  pears  are  long-lived.  They 
are  good  for  generations,  and  will  bear  fine  fruit  if 
rightly  treated. 

*'  Take  a  look  at  the  tree  you  contemplate  re- 
moving. If  its  top  runs  up  slim  and  spindling,  cut 
it  down  a  few  feet,  more  or  less.  Next  with  a  turf 
spade  cut  a  circle  around  the  tree  as  far  as  branches 
extend,  being  careful  not  to  injure  the  roots  of  the 
tree.  Remove  turf  to  a  width  of  3  to  5  feet.  Shake 
out  all  the  loam  from  the  grass  roots  and  cast  the 


ORCHARD   FRUITS 


17 


latter  aside.  Into  this  space  from  which  turf  has 
been  removed,  work  in  very  carefully  a  goodly 
quantity  of  finely  pulverized  old  barnyard  manure. 
Put  it  in  lavishly.     Work  it  well  in,  always  being 

careful  not  to  injure 
the  roots.  Then 
cover  that  space  all 
over  with  fine,  rich 
loam.  This  may  be 
done  in  the  fall,  any 
time  before  too  much 
frost.  The  result 
will  be  a  good  crop 
of  plump,  good- 
sized  fruit.  The 
same  treatment  can 
be  given  in  the 
spring  after  frost  is 
out.  There  may  be 
some  dwarf  varie- 
ties of  pear  trees 
which  are  short- 
lived, but  the  usual 
pear  tree  will  flour- 
ish and  produce  fine 
fruit  to  the  delight  of  generations. 

"Another  important  item  is  that  the  tree  be  not 
overhung  by  any  other  tree.  Pear  trees  should 
stand  in  the  full,  unobstructed  light.  There  should 
be  no  other  trees,  or  shrubs,  near  enough  to  rob 
them  of  their  root  space.  If  one  desires  fine  fruit, 
the  trees  must  be  allowed  all  their  rights ;  and 
must  occasionally  be  fed  after  the  manner  indicated. 
They  are  richly  worth  proper  attention. 


FRUIT  GATHERING  LADDERS 


yS  MAKING  HORTICULTURE   PAY 

HARVESTING  PEARS 

"  My  method  of  harvesting  the  pear  crop,"  says 
Ely  Blackwell  of  Mercer  county,  New  Jersey,  "  is 
to  make  the  first  picking  entirely  of  number  ones, 
sorting  on  tree.  I  use  i6-quart  tin  pails  and  empty 
into  barrels,  facing  two  layers  on  the  head  right  from 
the  picking  pail,  then  emptying  in  the  rest,  shak- 
ing the  barrel  every  time  a  pail  is  emptied.  Fill  as 
high  as  staves,  carefully  placing  top  layers  so  head 
will  settle  down  evenly  when  screw  pressure  is 
applied. 

"  In  about  two  weeks  I  make  the  second  picking. 
Then  the  orchard  is  picked  clean.  The  pears  now 
are  placed  in  heaps  for  sorting  under  a  tent,  which 
we  move  as  needed.  We  also  use  tent  in  picking 
the  first  time  to  shelter  barrels  and  tools.  The 
second  picking  is  sorted  in  two  grades.  We  get  a 
fair  percentage  of  number  ones  this  time,  as  some 
were  missed  in  the  first  picking  and  some  that  were 
too  small  are  now  large  enough  for  first  grade. 

"  This  method  of  sorting  on  the  tree  applies  only 
to  the  fruit  picked  by  my  son  and  myself.  If  we 
have  one  or  two  helpers,  they  try  to  pick  number 
ones  the  first  picking,  but  the  pears  they  pick  are 
emptied  out  and  my  son  or  myself  or  a  trusty 
man  sorts  them  over.  I  never  permit  any  hap- 
hazard packing.  I  always  have  barrels  neatly  sten- 
ciled, with  name  of  variety  and  grade,  and  my  own 
name." 

"  All  kinds  of  pears  will  ripen  if  picked  a  week 
to  a  month  before  they  are  ripe.  For  several  rea- 
sons it  is  much  the  best  plan,"  writes  L.  R.  John- 
son of  Missouri,  "  thus  to  gather  and  store  them 
away.  One  is,  as  they  mature  they  drop  easily, 
and  a  hard  wind  often  blows  ofif  great  numbers. 


ORCHARD   FRUITS  79 

When  blown  down  they  are  nearly  always  more 
or  less  damaged  by  being  scratched  or  bruised, 
gnawed  by  rabbits,  pecked  by  chickens,  and  vari- 
ously injured  by  numerous  other  destructive 
agencies. 

''Another  reason  is  that  some  varieties  are  sub- 
ject to  rot  at  the  core  if  left  on  the  tree  till  ripe, 
and  scarcely  any  variety  is  of  so  good  a  flavor.  In 
case  one  wishes  to  show  a  few  fine  specimens  at 
the  fair,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  tie  a  paper  bag  over 
them  to  protect  them  against  possible  injury  until 
it  is  time  to  gather  them. 

**  The  time  to  pick  may  be  known  by  the  pears 
assuming  a  yellow  tinge.  The  moment  this  can 
be  detected  they  are  ready  and  should  be  gathered 
at  once.  Do  not  pull  or  jerk  them  off,  but  simply 
raise  them  gently  so  as  to  bend  them  back  on  their 
stems.  They  will  then  snap  oflf  without  effort;  a 
straight  pull  will  find  them  very  tough  and  te- 
nacious. Lay  them  away  in  a  dark,  cool  drawer 
on  a  soft  cloth.  Wrap  each  one  in  a  piece  of  soft 
paper.  The  paper  absorbs  the  moisture  and  keeps 
them  from  contact,  which  disposes  to  rot." 

THE  PLUM 

No  fruit  will  replace  the  plum.  It  makes  the 
choicest  of  preserves,  and  many  of  the  varieties  are 
unsurpassed  as  dessert  fruits.  Every  farm  should 
have  at  least  a  dozen  trees  of  various  varieties  to 
extend  the  season,  as  Professor  Ballou  outlines 
below: 

The  plum  does  best  in  rather  strong,  rich  clayey 
loam,  but  even  on  soils  that  are  rather  light  it  does 
fairly  well,  though  the  tree  is  less  vigorous.  In 
planting  orchards,  a  convenient  distance  is  i6  to  20 


So  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

feet  apart.  The  ground  should  be  manured  regu- 
larly and  cultivated  each  year,  as  the  plum,  par- 
ticularly when  young,  is  likely  to  be  injured  by 
weeds.  It  is  desirable  that  several  varieties  be  planted 
together  to  insure  fertilization  of  the  bloom.  It  has 
also;  been  found  useful  to  plant  plums  in  poultry 
yards,  so  that  chickens  can  eat  the  curculios  which 
attack  the  fruit.  These  insects  drop  to  the  ground 
in  injured  fruit,  and  bury  themselves  until  mature. 
They  may  be  caught  in  what  are  called  "  buggers  " 
which  are  like  huge  inverted  umbrellas  mounted  on 
wheelbarrows.  On  one  side  a  slit  is  left  so  the 
umbrella  may  be  slid  under  the  tree  and  around  the 
trunk.  Then  the  tree  is  given  a  quick  tap  with  a 
heavy  mallet  and  the  insects  drop  and  are  caught 
at  the  center  in  a  metal  box  partly  filled  with 
kerosene.  Early  morning  is  the  best  time  to  do 
collecting. 

HARDY  PLUMS 

"  Some  20  years  ago,"  writes  A.  A.  Eastman  of 
Penobscot  county,  Maine,  "  I  took  up  plum  culture, 
purchasing  many  plum  trees  of  different  kinds  of  a 
nurseryman  in  New  York.  I  had  poor  results; 
trees  were  short  lived,  were  tender  and  winter- 
killed badly.  Later  I  got  some  horse  plum  trees 
and  set  them  out  among  the  others.  They  grew 
well,  and  the  next  year  I  grafted  them  to  better 
sorts.  They  soon  came  into  bearing,  and  gave  me 
heavy  crops  every  year  for  several  years,  with  big 
profits. 

"  I  can  raise  better  and  longer  lived  trees  than  I 
can  buy  of  a  nursery  company,  and  they  cost  me 
but  little  labor  and  no  money.  The  trees  soon  come 
into  bearing  and  I  get  good  crops  every  year.     The 


ORCHARD  FRUITS 


8l 


varieties  I  raise  are  Moore's  Arctic,  Lombard, 
Shipper's  Pride,  Niagara,  and  Imperial  Gage. 
There  are  many  other  good  varieties,  some  very- 
good  eating  plums,  but  the  trees  are  tender  and  do 
not  stand  our  cold  winters.  The  Burbank  is  a  fine 
plum  and  a  good  growing  tree,  but  the  fruit  buds 
are  tender  and  winterkill.  The  Abundance  is  an- 
other fine  plum,  but  the  tree  grows  so  late  in  the 
fall  the  wood  does  not  harden  and  get  ripe.  I 
should  not  advise  people  to  set  it  here  in  Maine." 

PLUMS  FOR  THE  CENTRAL  STATES 


According  to  Prof.  F.  H.  Ballou,  "  European 
varieties  of  plums  succeed  well  in  all  parts  of  Ohio 
and  stand  alone  in  their  general 
excellence  for  culinary  purposes. 
The  following  list  covers  the  en- 
tire season  of  nearly  eight  weeks, 
during  which  there  need  be  no 
break  in  the  succession  of  deli- 
cious plums  for  table  use  or  for 
market :  Clyman,  Czar,  Lincoln, 
Bradshaw,  Field,  Imperial  Gage, 
Spaulding  and  Missouri  Green 
Gage,  Lombard,  Empire,  Miller, 
Bavay  (Reine  Claude),  Monarch, 
Archduke,  Golden  Drop,  and  Grand 
Duke. 

"  No  other  class  of  plums  ap- 
proaches the  fine  varieties  of 
Europeans  for  firmness  of  flesh,  richness,  mild- 
ness, and  delicate  flavor  for  culinary  pur- 
poses, but  this  same  firmness  of  flesh  and  richness 
of  quality  soon  cloys  the  appetite  for  these  fruits 
in  their  fresh  state.     Not  so  with  the  finer  varieties 


FRUIT  LADDER 


82  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

of  our  native  plums,  which  might  well  be  classed 
with  grapes,  oranges,  melons,  etc.,  and  which,  while 
they  possess  the  attributes  of  delicacy  of  flavor, 
juiciness,  refreshing  sprightliness  and  healthfulness, 
do  not  possess  that  peculiar  combination  of  solidity 
and  richness  of  substance  which  soon  satiates  the 
appetite.  Indeed,  as  with  grapes,  melons,  etc.,  the 
more  excellent  varieties  of  native  plums  may  be 
eaten  freely  with  relish,  enjoyment,  and  benefit. 

"  To  those  who  are  not  familiar  with  the  im- 
proved varieties  of  native  plums,  and  to  whom  the 
mention  of  which  recalls  to  memory  the  small  thick- 
skinned,  large  seeded,  astringent,  yet  withal  tempt- 
ing, wild  plums  of  some  secluded  nook  on  the  farm, 
the  real  excellence  of  a  basket  of  great,  brilliantly 
colored  Brunswick,  Hunt,  or  Downing  would  prove 
a  revelation.  It  is  desirable,  if  not  necessary,  that 
in  planting  a  succession  of  fruits  for  the  home 
there  be  included  at  least  a  few  trees  of  such  excel- 
lent natives  as  Poole,  Pride,  Brunswick,  Wilder, 
Hunt,   Downing,  Reed,  and  Honey  Drop. 

"  Japanese  varieties,  while  rapid  growers  and  very 
beautiful  in  foliage,  blossoms,  and  fruit,  are  not  to 
be  depended  upon  for  regular  fruiting  in  Ohio. 
While  sufficiently  hardy  in  both  tree  and  bud  to 
endure  most  winters  in  this  latitude,  their  tendency 
to  bloom  early  makes  them  liable  to  be  caught  by 
the  late  spring  frosts.  The  quality  of  Japanese 
varieties,  as  a  rule,  is  decidedly  inferior  to  that  of 
either  the  European  or  native  plums,  both  for  their 
culinary  use  and  for  eating  fresh  from  the  tree, 
though  a  limited  number  of  the  Japanese  sorts  are 
good  for  both  purposes.  The  following  brief  col- 
lection of  varieties  embraces  the  cream  of  the  list 
grown  at  the  station :     Berger,  Red  June,  Burbank, 


ORCHARD    FRUITS  83 

Normand,    Chabot,    October    Purple,    Apple,    Gon- 
zales, and  Nona." 

CHESAPEAKE  PENINSULA  PLUMS 

"  In  my  plum  orchard,"  writes  J.  W.  Kerr  of 
Caroline  county,  Maryland,  "  I  depend  wholly 
upon  phosphoric  acid  and  green  crops  turned  under, 
either  scarlet  clover  or  cowpeas,  or  both.  Native 
plums  are  by  far  the  most  profitable  with  me.  Mil- 
ton, the  first  to  ripen,  and  ready  for  market  here  the 
first  week  in  July,  followed  by  Wildgoose  or 
Whitaker.  These  two  varieties  are  similar  in  every 
way,  ripen  at  same  date,  look  and  taste  alike,  but  I 
have  always  thought  the  latter  less  liable  to  speck, 
and  in  hot  July  weather  the  loss  seems  less.  The 
finishing  up  of  these  carries  the  marketing  to  last 
of  July.  Then  with  Mrs.  Cleveland  to  follow  car- 
ries the  picking  to  August  lo  to  15.  If  these  varieties 
were  self-fertile  I  would  not  wish  to  plant  any 
other  kinds,  but  none  of  them  separately  or  col- 
lectively will  pollinate  themselves  or  each  other. 
I  use  both  the  Smiley  and  the  Newman  as  pollin- 
ators. The  Smiley  does  not  prolong  the  season  as 
above,  but  the  Newman  often  extends  its  ripening 
from  August  10  to  September  20. 

"  For  reliable  crop  production,  and  uniformly 
paying  prices,  the  above  are  greatly  preferable  to 
any  of  the  Japanese  varieties  or  hybrids  that  I 
have  tried.  I  plant  20  feet  apart  each  way,  every 
fourth  row  a  pollinator,  branch  low,  pick  as  much 
of  the  fruit  as  possibly  practical  without  step- 
ladders,  as  pickers  cannot  make  satisfactory  wages, 
by  the  basket,  when  not  standing  on  the  ground. 

"  We  plow  and  cultivate  as  much  of  the  land  as 
we  can,  but  no  animal  large  enough  to  draw  a  cul- 


§4  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

tivator  can  get  within  5  feet  of  the  trunk,  hence 
we  have  overcome  what  Prof.  F.  A.  Waugh  de- 
nominates the  single  tree  disease.  The  varieties 
above  named  will  average  five  to  eight  bushels  to 
the  tree,  and  rarely  miss  a  crop.  If  they  net  2 
cents  a  quart,  I  am  satisfied.  If  more,  which  they 
often  do  in  Baltimore  markets,  there  is  no  kick! 
The  reader  will  please  observe  that  I  am  located 
on  the  Chesapeake  and  Delaware  peninsula,  and 
write  from  that  standpoint." 

THE  QUINCE 

The  quince  is  probably  the  most  neglected  of  the 
cultivated  fruits  in  America.  It  is  usually  allowed 
to  shift  for  itself.  There  is  no  reason  why  this 
should  be.  The  fruit  is  well  worth  a  place  in  the 
home  garden,  and  in  very  many  localities  there  is  a 
good  demand  in  the  local  markets. 

The  quince  does  best  on  a  deep,  rich,  moist  soil, 
but  will  do  well  on  any  land  that  will  raise  corn 
and  potatoes.  Liberal  annual  fertilization  will  pay 
well  as  will  also  clean  cultivation.  Usually  the 
quince  is  grown  in  bush  form,  a  new  stem  being 
allowed  to  grow  from  the  root  each  year  after  the 
second  or  third,  and  an  old  one  being  removed 
when  the  bush  begins  to  be  crowded.  The  usual 
distance  for  planting  is  10  to  12  feet. 

No  fruit  will  take  the  place  of  the  quince.  It 
makes  the  choicest  of  jelly  of  all  our  northern 
fruits,  and,  when  mixed  with  apple  and  pear,  forms 
a  marmalade  milder  than  the  quince  alone,  and 
more  piquant  than  either  the  apple  or  the  pear 
alone.  At  least  three  quince  bushes  should  be  on 
every  farm  to  supply  home  needs.  When  once 
established,  and  properly  taken  care  of,  the  trees 


ORCHARD  FRUITS  85 

will  continue  to  bear  from  the  time  they  are  three 
years  old  for  at  least  40  years.  As  the  plants  cost 
only  a  few  cents  and  as  cultivation  is  so  simple,  no 
one  should  be  without  quinces. 


CHAPTER   VIII 

Small  Fruits 

Small  fruits  are  the  parents  of  large  enjoyment. 

— Buck  Mc  Crawley. 

"  My  small  fruit  garden,"  writes  Mrs.  Zacheus 
McAllister  of  Maine,  "  is  about  195  feet  long  north 
and  south  by  115  feet  wide,  with  a  portion  in  the 
northwest  corner  33  by  75  feet,  taken  up  by  a  hen- 
house, also  four  rows  of  red  raspberries  140  feet 
long  and  three  rows  of  blackberries  75  feet  long. 

"  A  part  of  the  first  row  at  the  extreme  north 
border  is  taken  up  by  currants,  set  under  and  be- 
tween plum  and  pear  trees,  all  set  before  my  com- 
ing to  the  farm  nearly  20  years  ago.  The  white 
currants  were  bought  of  a  nursery  agent,  while  the 
red  are  of  more  ancient  origin.  They  bore  freely 
for  a  few  years,  but  the  worms  troubled  them  badly, 
and  they  were  unprofitable  for  a  few  years  until  we 
sprayed  with  paris  green,  and  now  have  little 
trouble  with  the  worms,  as  so  few  mature.  After 
several  years  I  obtained  as  a  premium  to  a  maga- 
zine three  Fay's  Prolific  currants,  which  bore  their 
first  fruit  ten  years  ago.  They  were  so  large  and 
nice  that  I  began  rooting  some  by  laying  down  the 
branches  in  the  early  part  of  the  season  and  trans- 
planting the  following  year  3  feet  apart  in  the  row 
and  rows  4  feet  apart.  I  have  never  tried  rooting 
from  cuttings. 

"  Ten  years  ago  I  set  12  purple  gooseberries, 
from  which  new  ones  were  rooted  in  the  same 
manner  as  the  currants,  until  three  rows  36  feet 

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88  MAKING  HORTICULTURE   PAY 

long  were  obtained.  These  have  borne  every  year 
since.  Three  years  later  I  procured  from  a  nur- 
sery agent  25  plants  each  of  the  Loudon  and  the 
Marlboro  raspberries,  which  were  set  2  feet  apart 
in  two  rows  each  of  each  variety,  the  rows  4  feet 
apart.  Being  set  in  the  fall  they  winterkilled 
badly,  but  spaces  were  filled  in  spring,  and  the 
rows  extended  to  140  feet  each,  and  have  done  ex- 
ceedingly well.  One  season  they  bore  over  six 
bushels  of  fruit,  or  i^  bushels  to  each  140  feet  of 
row.  The  Loudons  come  on  a  week  or  ten  days 
earlier  than  the  Marlboro.  The  first  were  picked 
July  22  and  the  last  August  19. 

"  One  spring  I  set  six  grape  vines.  Green  Moun- 
tain, Moyer,  Brighton,  Campbell's  Early,  Early 
Ohio,  and  Moore's  Diamond.  When  four  years 
old  they  began  to  bear  plentifully.  These,  in  ad- 
dition to  other  vines  on  the  farm,  make  a  nice 
variety  for  jellies  and  for  eating. 

"  Two  years  ago  I  set  out  50  Red  Cross  currant 
bushes,  two  years  old.  They  all  lived  and  grew 
beautifully.  They  have  made  a  good  growth  for 
next  season's  bearing.  This  variety  is  very  sweet, 
and  is  used  upon  the  table  very  freely,  after  being 
stemmed,  rinsed  in  cold  water,  and  sprinkled  plen- 
tifully with  sugar.  The  Fay's  Prolific  and  native 
red  are  used  more  for  jellies.  The  first  currants 
were  picked  July  15  and  the  last  August  i,  over 
five  bushels  in  all.  I  trim  the  bushes  as  soon  as 
possible  after  the  fruit  is  gathered  and  tie  the  canes 
before  snow  falls,  to  prevent  their  breaking  down 
and  to  facilitate  the  putting  on  of  the  dressing. 

RASPBERRIES  DO  WELL 

"I  also  set  18  Shaffer  Colossal  raspberry  bushes 
in  the  fall,  that  same  year,  bought  direct  from  the 


iSMALL  FRUITS  89 

nursery.  This  plant,  being-  propagated  from  the 
tips,  was  new  to  me,  and  in  buying  in  the  fall 
the  plants  were  small  and  the  roots  smaller,  but  I 
succeeded  in  having  it  come  through  the  winter. 
Every  Monday  I  watered  with  wash  water  and 
many  pailfuls  of  dressing.  I  also  worked  around 
their  roots  throughout  the  summer,  and  as  soon  as 
a  shoot  was  long  enough  to  reach  the  ground,  I 
buried  it  in  the  earth  for  a  new  plant,  after  mellow- 
ing up  the  ground  and  putting  a  stone  upon  the 
plant  to  hold  it  down.  In  the  spring  of  the  second 
year  I  set  the  balance  of  this  row  and  another  be- 
tween the  small  fruit  trees,  which  are  set  20  feet 
apart,  making  two  rows  115  feet  long,  each  having 
22  plants.  From  these  I  raised  enough  plants  to 
set  three  additional  rows  last  season,  besides  many 
plants  which  were  disposed  of.  The  44  hills  in  the 
two  old  rows  yielded  over  five  bushels  of  raspber- 
ries last  year.  These  two  rows  of  bushes  and 
berries  being  interwoven  with  the  new  growth 
made  a  hedge,  the  handsomest  I  have  ever  seen. 
These  purple  berries  I  find  more  acid  than  the  red, 
but  served  with  sugar  and  cream  they  make  a  dish 
fit  for  a  queen. 

"  One-half  the  space  from  the  south  end  was 
plowed  up  and  set  with  raspberries.  A  heavy  coat 
of  dressing  was  applied  from  the  barn  cellar  and 
worked  in  thoroughly  with  a  wheel  harrow  as  soon 
as  the  soil  could  be  worked  in  the  spring.  The  plants 
were  then  taken  up  with  a  spade  from  the  old  rows, 
moved  to  the  new  plot,  while  the  dirt  adhered 
and  set  while  the  ground  was  moist,  and  they  grew 
and  bore  as  if  they  had  never  been  moved.  About 
a  foot  was  cut  from  the  tops,  leaving  them  3  or  4 
feet  high.  A  fine  crop  of  berries  was  secured  the 
first  year.     This  could  not  be  done  profitably  on  a 


90  MAKING   HORTICULTURE  PAY 

large  scale,  but  as  my  three  rows  were  only  115 
feet  long  I  did  it  easily  after  a  rain,  and  felt  repaid 
for  my  work. 

"  This  garden  plot  slopes  a  little  toward  the 
southeast,  and  is  a  gravelly  loam,  and  quite  rocky. 

1  apply  a  shovelful  of  dressing  to  each  hill,  keep  the 
weeds  and  grass  down  and  raise  lots  of  berries. 
The  Shaffer  Colossal  raspberries  are  set  between 
and  under  the  plum,  pear,  and  cherry  trees,  they 
in  turn  being  set  about  20  feet  apart.  This  plot  of 
ground  outside  the  four  rows  of  raspberries  140 
feet  and  three  rows  of  blackberries  75  feet  long,  I 
find  very  profitable  as  well  as  a  fascinating  indus- 
try, having  made  ready  sales  for  all  the  fruit  I  could 
spare." 

THE  BLACKBERRY 

In  no  essential  respect  does  the  treatment  of  the 
blackberry  differ  from  that  of  the  raspberry.  The 
plant  is  a  more  rampant  grower  and  should  have 
more  room.  It  also  needs  more  careful  pruning  and 
pinching  to  secure  best  results.  Six  to  8  feet  is 
the   usual   distance  at  which   rows   are   made   and 

2  to  3  feet  between  the  plants  in  the  row.  Prefer- 
ably, however,  blackberries  should  be  set  in  checks 
6  by  6,  so  that  cultivation  may  be  given  both  ways. 

As  to  pruning,  the  young  shoots  should  be 
pinched  when  they  reach  a  height  of  3  feet  to  30 
inches.  This  can  be  done  with  the  thumb  and 
finger  during  the  summer.  Shortly  after  the 
pinching,  lateral  branches  will  appear.  These 
should  be  pinched  when  they  are  12  to  18  inches 
long,  depending  upon  the  variety.  Some  varieties 
bear  their  fruit  buds  close  to  the  main  stem,  others 
farther  out.     This  feature  can  be  determined  only 


SMALL   FRUITS  9I 

by  observation  of  the  various  varieties.  As  a  re- 
sult of  this  pinching,  the  main  stems  grow  very 
stocky  and  the  laterals  strong  and  more  or  less 
rigid.  They  thus  bear  their  fruit  well  up  from  the 
ground  and  there  is  no  danger  of  the  stems  falling 
over  when  the  crop  is  abundant.  After  fruiting, 
the  canes  that  have  borne  should  be  as  light  as  pos- 
sible for  the  maturing  of  the  young  canes,  which 
will  bear  the  following  season.  Three  to  five 
canes  are  enough  to  allow  to  grow  each  year,  de- 
pending upon  the  strength  of  the  variety.  Large- 
growing  kinds  should  have  the  smaller  number. 
The  old  canes  should  be  removed  from  the  planta- 
tion and  burned.     (See  also  Raspberry.) 

In  some  places  it  is  thought  ad- 
visable to  cover  blackberries  dur- 
ing the  winter  to  protect  them 
from  freezing,  but  usually  it  is 
not  necessary  in  ordinary 
climates  where  the  above  method 
BLACKBERRIES        ^f     pruning     is     practiced.     The 

Grown  naturally  •    ^^      1  -n-  •        1  1  1 

Winterkilling  is  largely  due  to 
immature  wood  which  freezes.  Well-ripened  wood 
is  rarely  injured  by  frost  except  in  very  cold  loca- 
tions. 

Among  the  best  known  varieties  are  Agawam, 
Ancient  Briton,  Early  Cluster,  Early  Harvest,  Erie, 
Kittatinny,  Mersereau,  Snyder,  Taylor,  and  Wilson. 

THE  CURRANT 

In  the  cooler  sections  of  the  country  the  currant 
is  one  of  the  easiest  and  most  satisfactory  small 
fruits  to  grow.  It  is  perfectly  hardy,  makes  quick 
and  early  maturing  growth,  comes  into  bearing  the 
second  year  after  planting,  and  produces  fruit  un- 


gZ  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

equaled  by  any  temperate  climate  fruit  for  mak- 
ing jelly.  Some  of  the  varieties  are  excellent  for 
eating  raw,  when  sprinkled  with  sugar.  The  green 
as  well  as  the  ripe  fruit  is  also  used  for  making 
pies.  Combinations  of  currants  with  raspberries, 
blackberries,  and  other  midsummer  fruits  are  highly 
prized  by  housewives,  who  thus  add  to  their  pre- 
serves flavors  differing  from  all  of  those  that  enter 
in  the  combinations. 

No  small  fruit  is  of  easier  culture.  It  may  be 
propagated  by  thrusting  a  branch  in  the  ground  in 
early  spring  and  making  the  soil  firm  around  it. 
The  following  year  this  branch  should  bear  a  few 
fruits.  It  is  better,  however,  to  buy  well-rooted 
plants  and  set  them  out  4  or  5  feet  apart  each  way 
and  give  clean  cultivation.  This  is  not  the  usual 
practice  in  home  gardens. 

Simply  because  the  currant  is  so  easy  to  grow, 
it  is  consequently  neglected,  allowed  to  be  choked 
with  weeds  and  to  become  the  prey  of  the  currant 
or  gooseberry  worm.  No  insect  is  more  easily 
controlled  than  this,  if  taken  in  time.  It  begins 
operations  as  soon  as  the  leaves  start  to  form.  The 
eggs  are  laid  first  near  the  base  of  the  bush,  and 
the  insects  eat  the  leaves  there  first.  They  usually 
are  not  suspected  of  being  present  until  a  large 
part  of  the  foliage  has  been  destroyed.  Hellebore, 
either  dusted  or  sprinkled  on  wet,  is  the  common 
remedy  for  this  insect.  A  little  attention  in  the 
early  spring  will  save  a  much  larger  amount  of 
attention  later,  and  insure  the  crop. 

The  currant  does  well  on  almost  any  soil,  but 
best  on  rather  heavy  land.  Pruning  consists  in 
removing  old  wood  after  it  has  borne  two  or 
three  crops.  New  shoots  are  constantly  coming 
up    from    the    base    and   one   or   two    of   the   best 


SMALL   FRUITS  93 

of  these  should  be  allowed  to  grow  each  year. 
Preferably  the  old  stems  should  be  cut  out  at  four 
years  old,  because  the  younger  wood  bears  better. 
Liberal  applications  of  stable  manure  or  complete 
commercial  fertilizers  may  be  given.  The  soil 
should  be  kept  cultivated  and  free  from  weeds, 
especially  around  the  bases  of  the  bushes.  Work 
should  begin  as  soon  as  the  ground  can  be  handled. 
Unlike  most  other  fruits,  the  currant  does  well 
when  partially  shaded.  It  is,  therefore,  well 
adapted  for  the  home  garden. 

There  are  three  commercial  classes  of  currants — 
the  red,  white,  and  black.  The  former  two  all 
belong  to  one  species ;  the  latter  is  distinct.  For 
home  use  all  three  should  be  grown.  The  whites 
and  reds  are  more  or  less  alike  in  flavor,  but  the 
black  is  very  distinct,  and  is  not  generally  liked. 
It  is  used  principally  for  making  jam.  The  best 
known  varieties  of  reds  are  Cherry,  Fay,  Red  Cross, 
Red  Dutch,  Versailles,  Victoria,  and  Wilder.  The 
two  most  popular  varieties  are  White  Dutch  and 
White  Grape.  Among  the  black  varieties  the  best 
known  are  Black  Naples,  Champion,  and  Lee's 
Prolific. 

"  During  my  experience  with  currants  in  the  last 
30  years,  I  have  found  Fay,  La  Versailles,  Cherry, 
and  Filler  varieties  best  adapted  to  this  section," 
writes  J.  A.  Hepworth  of  Ulster  county.  New  York. 
"  My  main  crop  consists  of  Filler,  of  which  variety 
I  have  about  50,000  bushes.  Heavy  clay  loam 
seems  an  especially  desirable  soil  for  this  crop. 
My  bushes  range  in  age  from  three  to  15  years.  I 
do  not  allow  any  dead  wood  to  remain,  but  every 
year,  preferably  in  the  early  spring  or  early  fall,  I 
trim  this  all  out. 


94  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

"  Fay  is  the  first  to  ripen,  Versailles  next,  and 
Filler  last.  I  begin  picking  the  last  week  of  June 
or  the  first  of  July  in  quarts,  paying  ij4  to  ij/^ 
cents  a  quart.  Fruit  is  shipped  in  32-quart  crates 
to  New  York,  Boston,  Chicago,  Cleveland,  and 
Bufifalo,  and  sold  on  commission.  Last  season  I 
received  an  average  of  about  7  cents  a  quart.  I 
don't  sow  any  cover  crop.  Number  one  bushes  are 
best  for  planting.  These  I  raise  myself.  The  cur- 
rant bushes  are  planted  between  my  grape  vines." 

THE  DEWBERRY 

The  dewberry  dififers  from  the  blackberry  mainly 
in  its  trailing  habit.  The  fruit  is  usually  earlier 
than  the  blackberries,  and  thus  prolongs  the  black- 
berry season.  Dewberries  are  generally  tied  to 
stakes  or  trellises  so  as  to  facilitate  cultivation.  In 
the  fall,  the  cords  are  cut  and  the  canes  allowed  to 
lie  on  the  ground  during  the  winter.  Management 
is  otherwise  the  same  as  for  blackberries  and  rasp- 
berries. The  Lucretia  is  the  leading  variety.  (See 
Raspberry.) 

"  In  planting  and  cultivating  the  dewberry,"  says 
S.  H.  Strange  of  Cumberland  county.  North  Caro- 
lina, "  the  land  should  not  be  too  stiff.  We  prefer 
a  rather  sandy  land,  though  not  too  poor.  The  land 
should  be  well  plowed  and  harrowed.  Mark  off 
the  rows  4  by  8  feet,  making  the  furrows  about  4 
inches  deep.  We  prefer  to  set  the  roots  in  March. 
Put  the  plant  in  the  checks  and  cover  about  2 
inches  deep  and  apply  300  pounds  fertilizer  to  the 
acre,  or  stable  manure,  if  you  have  it,  at  the  rate 
of  a  shovelful  to  the  hill.  This  will  give  you  vine 
or  cane  enough.  Cultivate  as  level  as  possible  and 
keep  clean  all  the  summer.     The  posts  and  wire 


SMALL   FRUITS  95 

can  be  put  up  in  the  winter,  posts  set  40  feet  apart. 
Care  should  be  taken  to  have  the  line  of  posts  run 
exactly  with  the  line  or  row  of  dewberries,  so  the 
wire  when  stretched  from  post  to  post  will  be 
directly  over  the  vines.  The  vines  or  canes  should 
be  tied  up  on  the  wire  the  latter  part  of  March,  one 
year  after  they  are  planted.  This  should  be  done 
very  carefully,  the  hills  barred  off  and  fertilizer 
applied  at  the  rate  of  800  to  1,500  pounds  an  acre.  Ap- 
plying the  fertilizer  with  a  disk  drill  is  a  good  way. 
Any  high-grade  fertilizer  will  do  that  will  analyze 
3  per  cent  ammonia,  12  per  cent  phosphoric  acid, 
and  10  per  cent  potash.  I  give  these  general  out- 
lines, but  a  man  must  be  governed  by  local  condi- 
tions, study  his  land  and  feed  it  accordingly  and 
watch  results." 

THE  GOOSEBERRY 

Like  the  currant,  the  gooseberry  does  best  in  a 
cool  climate.  The  northern  states  and,  in  the  south, 
the  mountains,  are  best  adapted  for  this  fruit.  Like 
the  currant,  also,  the  gooseberry  does  best  on  moist 
soil.  Its  chief  enemy  is  the  gooseberry  worm. 
(See  Currant.)  Properly  managed  gooseberries 
furnish  abundance  of  fruit,  which  can  be  used  long 
before  it  is  ripe,  for  making  pies  and  jam.  Until  it 
is  ripe,  it  is  very  acid,  and  often  when  fully  ripe, 
many  of  the  varieties  are  still  tart.  For  four  to 
six  weeks,  or  even  longer,  either  green  or  ripe,  it  is 
a  particularly  valuable  fruit  for  the  home  garden 
and  the  local  market  on  these  accounts. 

There  are  two  general  classes  of  varieties — the 
English  and  the  American.  The  former  are  not 
considered  as  easy  to  manage  as  the  latter,  but 
usually  they  are  of  superior  quality.     Among  them 


96  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

are  Chautauqua,  Columbus,  Industry,  Triumph, 
WelHngton's  Glory,  Lancashire  Lad,  and  Crown 
Bob.  Among  American  varieties  are  Champion, 
Downing,  Houghton's  Seedling,  Pearl,  Red  Jacket, 
and  Smith.  In  all  essential  respects,  management 
is  the  same  as  for  currants,  which  see. 

"  I  usually  take  two-year-old  gooseberry  plants," 
writes  Phil  Strubler  of  Du  Page  county,  Illinois, 
"  though  one-year-old  plants  grown  from  layers  will 
do.  I  prepare  my  ground  by  applying  a  heavy 
coat  of  barnyard  manure  before  plowing  it  under. 
After  this  is  plowed  under  6  to  10  inches  deep  I 
put  on  the  plowed  surface,  usually  with  a  manure 
spreader,  as  well  rotted  barnyard  manure  as  I  can 
get.  This  is  cultivated  and  harrowed  into  the  soil 
as  well  as  possible.  I  then  mark  the  rows  for  plant- 
ing 6  feet  apart  one  way  and  5  the  other.  This  is, 
of  course,  for  field  culture.  For  garden  culture,  the 
plants  can  be  planted  nearer,  say,  5x4  feet. 

"  I  always  plant  in  the  fall  when  possible,  say, 
from  the  middle  of  September  until  the  ground 
freezes.  If  planted  in  the  last  two  weeks  in  Sep- 
tember there  is  nearly  a  year's  gain  in  the  growth 
of  the  plants  the  following  year.  I  always  draw 
up  the  earth  around  the  base  of  the  plants  to  keep 
the  water  from  settling  around  the  plants  during 
the  freezing  and  thawing  of  the  following  winter 
and  spring.  This  has  a  tendency  to  heave  the 
plants  out  of  the  ground.  It  is  well  to  level  the 
ground  around  the  plants  after  freezing  is  over  in 
the  spring. 

"  Get  all  the  growth  out  of  the  plants  the  first 
two  or  three  years  by  good  cultivation.  Keep  them 
clear  of  weeds ;  go  through  with  a  cultivator  about 
every  ten  days  during  the  growing  season.  After 
the  second  year  they  need  some  trimming,  but  not 


SMALL  FRUITS  97 

much.  In  a  year  or  two  they  need  more,  and  as 
they  grow  older  an  annual  trimming  is  desirable. 
You  cannot  expect  to  grow  good  crops  of  goose- 
berries without  plenty  of  air  and  light  in  and 
around  the  plants.  After  the  fourth  year  one  ought 
to  be  able  to  grow  an  average  crop  of  fruit  if  the 
bushes  have  been  well  cared  for." 

"  The  Houghton  gooseberry,"  says  S.  J.  Black- 
well  of  Mercer  county,  New  Jersey,  "  always  bears 
a  full  crop  of  fruit  of  good  quality,  although  the 
fruit  is  small.  It  is  a  sure  cropper  and  has  long 
been  our  standard  sort.  The  Downing  fruit  is 
larger  and  just  as  good  in  other  ways,  with  the 
exception  that  the  plants  are  rather  small.  The 
Pearl  possesses  a  superior  flavor,  and  is  a  very  at- 
tractive green  and  the  bush  is  a  strong  grower.  The 
Joslyn,  when  grown  here,  has  large  size,  but  is  not 
very  hardy.  It  has  a  large  number  of  spines,  and 
holds  its  leaves  well. 

"  The  Columbus  is  of  large  size  and  productive, 
but  not  a  very  rapid  grower.  It  is  worthy  of  trial. 
The  Chautauqua  has  been  grown  here  for  some 
time,  and  I  would  plant  this  for  market  were  I 
putting  out  a  berry  patch  this  year.  The  Moun- 
tain Seedling  is  a  very  attractive  berry,  but  the 
quality  is  poor  and  the  stems  hurt  its  sale." 

GOOSEBERRIES  FOR  PROFIT 

Pennel  Emerson  of  Delaware  grows  gooseberries 
successfully  in  fruiting  orchards  as  described  be- 
low by  A.  N.  Brown  of  Wyoming  county.  "  The 
plantation,  now  12  years  old,  is  of  Houghton  and 
Downing  varieties.  As  the  ground  was  planted 
closely  with  fruit  trees,  the  bushes  had  to  be  set 
just  where  room  could  be  found  for  them,  and  still 


98  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

leave  space  for  the  necessary  culture.  Mr.  Emerson 
considers  4x6  feet  the  proper  width  to  set  the 
plants  when  starting  new  plantations  in  the  open. 

"  The  first  two  or  three  years  light  applications 
of  phosphoric  acid  and  potash  were  given  in  co  - 
nection  with  the  crimson  clover,  which  forms  the 
basis  of  manure  furnished  to  the  gooseberries,  and 
which,  doubtless,  is  the  greatest  factor  in  the  suc- 
cess attained.  Crimson  clover  has  been  the  sole 
manure,  until  within  the  past  year  or  so,  when  an 
application  of  barnyard  manure  was  given  in  the 
fall,  to  aid  the  clover  as  a  mulch  and  to  furnisR  ad- 
ditional humus,  so  that  sufficient  moisture  can  be 
conserved  to  mature  the  crop.  For  it  must  be 
borne  in  mind  that  the  pear  and  apple  trees  are 
now  at  such  an  age  they  require  a  large  amount  of 
moisture. 

"  This  necessitates  the  plowing  down  of  the  clover 
early  in  the  spring,  because  of  the  call  for  moisture 
by  the  maturing  clover  itself.  It  was  desirable  also 
to  prevent  injury  to  the  larger  root  system  of  the 
strong  gooseberry  bushes.  To  maintain  the  crop- 
producing  power  of  this  large  number  of  mature 
trees  and  vines,  culture  must  begin  as  early  as 
possible.  After  the  clover  is  turned  under  the 
most  intense  culture  is  given,  implements  best 
suited  for  the  work  being  used.  After  the  crop 
is  harvested,  or  about  July  10,  the  ground  is  again 
seeded  to  crimson  clover  and  the  same  routine  fol- 
lowed. The  gooseberries  began  bearing  at  two 
years,  and  have  borne  annually  since  in  increasing 
quantity.  Last  season  over  24,000  pounds  were 
gathered  from  a  scant  four  acres.  This  product 
sold  at  an  average  of  6  cents  a  pound,  or  $1,440 
from  the  four  acres.  The  crop  is  usually  sold  to 
Baltimore  canners,  whose  representatives  come  to 


SMALL   FRUITS  99 

the  shipping"  station  for  them.  The  price  has  never 
fallen  below  33^  cents  a  pound,  and  is  frequently 
more  than  6  cents.  It  must  be  kept  in  mind  that 
a  large  crop  each  of  apples  and  pears  was  grown 
on  the  same  ground.  What  the  results  in  the  open 
under  Mr.  Emerson's  treatment  would  have  been 
would  be  speculative,  but  they  probably  would  be 
much  greater  than  when  grown  with  the  handicap 
as  they  are. 

"  Pickers  receive  three-quarters  of  a  cent  a  pound 
for  picking.  They  can  make  $1.50  a  day  by  steady 
work.  The  Downing  is  the  larger  and  more  pro- 
ductive. It  does  not  turn  red  when  ripe,  as  does 
the  Houghton.  This  fault  is  an  objectionable  fea- 
ture, to  the  packers  especially." 

THE    GRAPE 

In  proportion  to  the  amount  of  care  it  requires, 
the  grape  will  produce  more  pleasure  and  profit 
than  any  other  of  our  temperate  climate  fruits.  It 
needs  only  a  warm  soil  and  sunny  exposure,  and, 
preferably,  an  elevation  above  the  general  lay  of 
the  land  in  order  to  do  well.  As  to  training,  stakes 
or  trellises  may  be  used  or  the  vines  trained  over  a 
porch  or  window.  Pruning  consists  in  cutting  off 
all  but  one  or  two  buds  at  each  stem  each  autumn. 
The  new  shoots  that  come  from  the  buds  left  will 
produce  abundant  crops,  usually  one  to  three  clus- 
ters. 

Usually  the  vines  are  trained  to  trellises  and 
allowed  to  extend  only  6  to  12  feet,  according  to 
the  variety.  This  allows  of  planting  the  vines  as 
close  as  6  feet  in  the  row  for  small  varieties  such 
as  the  Delaware,  and  8,  10,  and  12  feet  for  the  larger 
growing   kinds.     Some   growers    plant   large   vari- 


100 


MAKING   HORTICULTURE  PAY 


eties  i6  feet  apart.  Trellises  are  much  more 
popular  in  America  than  stakes.  These  are  made 
with  stout  posts  and  No.  lo  galvanized  wire, 
generally.  Some  trellises  are  made  horizontal  and 
others  vertical.  Each  style  has  its  advocates. 
Usually  two  arms  are  allowed  to  each  vine  trunk, 
and  trained  in  opposite  directions  at  right  angles 
to  the  main  stem.  Where  the  trellis  is  horizontal, 
the  vines  are  allowed  to  droop  over  the  wires. 
Where  the  trellis  is  vertical,  the  vines  are  trained 
upward. 

Volumes  have  been   written  on   the  training  of 
grapes,  but  any  grower  can  evolve  a  plan  to  suit 


FOUR  YEARS  IN  GRAPE  TRAINING 

At  left,  vine  as  set;  next,  end  of  first  year;  third,  end  of 
second  year;  fourth,  end  of  third  year;  last,  pruned  ready  for 
fourth    season. 


himself  by  remembering  that  the  buds  produced 
in  one  year  bear  fruit  the  next  year,  and  that  the 
best  fruit  is  produced  by  the  two  or  three  buds 
near  the  base  of  the  cane.  All  the  others  may  be 
removed.  At  intervals  of  three  to  five  years  the 
irregular  stubs  may  be  cut  out  and  new  buds 
allowed  to  take  their  places  and  supply  new 
branches. 

Unquestionably  the  most  popular  American 
variety  is  the  Concord.  It  has  been  proved  that 
it  will  grow  well  on  a  greater  variety  of  soils  and 


SMALL   FRUITS  lOI 

produce  better  than  any  other  American  grape. 
Worden,  somewhat  earlier,  is  considered  of  better 
quality,  and  Moore's  Early  has  been  ranked  as  the 
very  best  early  black  variety.  This,  however,  is 
likely  to  be  replaced  by  Campbell's  Early,  which 
bears  larger  clusters  of  superior  fruit.  It  is  a  better 
shipper  than  Moore's. 

Among  the  red  varieties  Catawba,  Delaware,  and 
Brighton  are  probably  the  best  known,  though 
Agawam  and  Salem  are  also  popular  because  of 
their  excellent  quality.  Brighton  is  likely  to  prove 
disappointing  unless  planted  in  proximity  with 
other  kinds  of  grapes.  The  berries  are  often  small 
when  the  vine  is  planted  alone.  The  best  early 
white  variety  is  Green  Mountain.  Another  white 
of  high  quality  is  Moore  Diamond.  Pocklington  is 
a  superior  white  grape.  The  best  known  white, 
however,  is  Niagara,  a  late  variety,  which  does  well 
in  most  sections  where  the  Concord  succeeds. 

GRAPES    IN    DELAWARE 

According  to  J.  E.  Carter  of  Kent  county,  Dela- 
ware, "  the  proper  soil  for  a  vineyard  is  a  loamy 
one  8  to  lo  inches  deep,  sloping  toward  the  south, 
with  a  good  clay  subsoil,  and  good  drainage.  Give 
a  heavy  application  of  manure,  well  rotted  and 
plowed  10  inches  deep,  and  harrow  until  in  fine  con- 
dition. The  reason  for  putting  the  plant  food 
deep  is  to  keep  the  roots  down,  a  very  important 
matter,  as  they  have  a  tendency  to  come  to  the 
surface. 

"  With  a  two-horse  plow  make  a  straight  row  as 
deep  as  you  can,  and  then  come  back  in  the  same 
row,  making  as  deep  as  possible,  and  then  clean  out 
to  the  needed  depth  with  a  shovel.      I  make  my 


T02 


MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 


rows  9  feet  apart  and  plant  6  feet  apart  in  the 
rows.  The  vines  are  trimmed,  leaving  two  or  three 
buds.  Trim  the  roots  to  lo  inches,  and  plant  as 
deep  as  the  vines  will  permit,  leaving  one  or  more 
buds  above  ground,  after  covering  the  roots  with  3 
inches  of  soil.     Put  a  handful  of  bone  around  each 

vine,  scattering  it 
along  the  row,  and 
then  fill  up  the  fur- 
row. I  let  my  vines 
run  on  the  ground 
the  first  year. 

"  End  poles  need 
to  be  10  feet  long; 
put  them  in  th'e 
ground  4}^  feet. 
These  poles  should 
not  be  less  than  8 
inches  in  diameter 
at  the  small  end, 
the  middle  poles 
8  feet  long,  4  inches  at  the  small  end;  put 
a  pole  after  every  fourth  vine,  putting  the  pole 
in  the  ground  2  feet.  Use  No.  11  for  the  first  wire, 
and  put  it  three  feet  from  the  ground.  Use  No.  9 
for  the  second  wire,  putting  it  30  inches  from  the 
first. 

*'  The  next  spring  after  planting  trim  the  vines 
to  one  cane,  selecting  the  strongest,  cutting  it  12 
to  18  inches  in  length,  and  tie  to  a  small  pole. 
This  is  the  most  important  time  in  the  life  of  a 
vineyard,  for  the  beauty  of  the  vineyard  will  de- 
pend on  the  care  bestowed  on  the  vines  to  keep 
them  straight,  and  all  will  depend  on  this  summer's 
trimming  and  pruning.  When  vines  put  out  new 
growth,  I  select  the  strongest  shoot  and  tie  to  a 


GRAPE  TRAINED  OVER  WINDOW 


SMALL    FRUITS  IO3 

small  pole  when  it  has  reached  the  first  wire,  pinch 
the  top  out  and  start  two  lower  arms  and  then 
carry  the  center  shoot  up  to  the  top  wire. 

**  It  is  no  trouble  to  get  top  arms,  but  lower  arms 
must  be  provided  first  or  there  will  be  trouble  to  get 
them;  nothing  but  new  wood  bears  fruit.  When 
the  vine  has  reached  the  top  wire,  pinch  out  the 


L1>L- 


GRAPE    TRELLIS    AND    VINES 

top  shoot,  SO  It  will  make  two  canes,  then  take  one 
down  each  side.  In  trimming  the  third  year,  I  get 
four  arms  from  the  main  cane,  with  about  ten  buds 
on  each  arm,  and  tie  each  to  the  vine,  using  two- 
ply  jute  twine. 

"  The  implements  used  in  cultivation  after  the 
vines  have  come  into  bearing  are  the  one-horse 
plow;  the  gang  plow,  consisting  of  three  small 
plows  attached  to  one  frame  or  beam ;  the  weeder, 
the  cutaway  harrow,  and  the  horse  hoe ;  one-horse 
cultivator  and  hand  hoe.  Clean  cultivation  is 
necessary.  For  my  locality,  the  varieties  I  have 
chosen  for  commercial  purposes  after  several  years' 
trial  with  25  varieties  are  only  four — Moore's  Early, 
Niagara,  Concord,  and  Delaware." 

GRAPE  JUICE 

"  Every  season  I  make  a  large  amount  of  grape 
juice,"  writes  Mrs.  Mary  Johnson  of  Tippecanoe 
county,  Indiana.  "  In  the  fall  when  grapes  are 
abundant,    they    can    easily    be    purchased    in    the 


104  MAKING   HORTICULTURE    PAY 

country  at  about  1%.  cents  a  pound.  The  grape 
juice  purchased  in  market  does  not  possess  the 
same  body  as  that  made  from  ripe  grapes  on  the 
farm.  I  cannot  help  suspecting  it  contains  a  good 
deal  of  water  and  some  preservative  to  cheapen  the 
cost  and  reduce  the  amount  of  sugar  that  would 
have  to  be  used  to  keep  it  from  spoiling.  The  grape 
juice  I  make  is  used  mostly  during  spring  and 
summer. 

"  I  select  perfectly  ripe  fruit.  The  riper  and 
sweeter  the  grapes,  the  more  delicious  the  flavor 
of  the  juice.  After  washing  and  stemming,  I  crush 
the  berries  with  a  potato  masher.  This,  I  think, 
is  as  good  a  way  as  any.  There  are  several  small 
presses  on  the  market  for  this  purpose,  but  my 
method  answers  my  need. 

"  After  crushing  I  put  the  grapes  on  the  stove  to 
simmer,  not  boil.  Nearly  enough  water  is  added 
to  cover  the  mass  of  crushed  grapes.  After  the 
fruit  is  cooked  soft  I  strain  through  a  jelly  bag 
that  has  been  carefully  washed.  When  the  bag  has 
become  cool  enough  to  be  squeezed  without  burn- 
ing the  hands,  the  last  of  the  juice  can  be  pressed 
out.  If  the  juice  were  to  be  used  for  jelly  making, 
this  would  not  be  done,  as  it  would  render  the  jelly 
cloudy. 

"  The  amount  of  sugar  to  be  put  in  depends  on 
how  sweet  one  wants  the  juice.  It  is  safest  to  have 
it  very  sweet  to  prevent  fermentation.  I  put  the 
juice  up  in  catsup  bottles,  using  the  same  precau- 
tions that  I  do  in  canning  fruit.  It  is  a  safe  rule  to 
use  half  the  quantity  of  sugar  that  I  have  of  juice, 
by  measure.  If  there  is  too  little  sugar  the  juice 
may  ferment  and  break  the  jars. 

'Tn  canning,  one  very  important  thing  is  to  have 
new  rubbers.     It  is  never  safe  to  use  old  ones,  or 


SMALL   FRUITS  10$ 

even  those  that  have  been  used  once.  If  the  juice 
is  made  as  I  have  indicated,  and  fresh  rubbers  are 
used  each  year,  there  will  be  little  loss  from  fer- 
mentation. When  the  grape  juice  is  used,  it  is 
diluted  to  suit  the  taste." 

THE  RASPBERRY 

There  are  four  classes  of  American  raspberries. 
Two  of  these,  the  white  and  the  red,  belong  to  the 
same  species.  The  third  is  the  black  raspberry,  or 
blackcap,  which  forms  a  class  by  itself.  The  fourth 
class  is  a  hybrid  be- 
tween the  red  and  the 
black.  The  cultivation 
of  all  these  is  the  same 
except  that  the  black 
varieties  need  some- 
what more  room  than 
the  others.  All  kinds 
do    best    on    rich    soil,  holding  raspberry 

preferably  strong,  deep  wires  tight 

loam.     This    gives  the 

best  crop.  On  sandy,  gravelly,  or  stiff  clay  soils,  the 
plants  cannot  be  relied  upon  to  give  good  yields.  The 
deeper  the  soil,  the  better.  Like  the  blackberry, 
the  stems  of  the  raspberry  are  biennial ;  that  is,  they 
produce  canes  one  year  from  a  perennial  root  and 
bear  fruit  the  following  year,  then  die  and  new 
shoots  take  their  places.  On  this  account  stems  that 
have  borne  fruit  should  be  cut  out  immediately  after 
fruiting,  because  they  are  of  no  further  use. 

While  all  these  fruits  send  up  new  canes  from 
the  base  of  the  plant,  the  reds  and  the  blackberries 
may  send  suckers  from  any  point  where  the  roots 
are  broken,  so  will  the  hybrid  kinds,  which  will 


I06  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

also  root  from  the  tips.  The  stems  of  the  black 
varieties,  if  allowed  to  grow  full  length,  will  take 
root  at  their  tips.  These  two  characteristics  of  the 
plant  suggest  methods  of  propagation ;  new  black- 
berry and  red  and  white  raspberry  plants  are 
secured  by  digging  up  the  suckers  and  planting 
them  where  desired.  New  plants  of  black  rasp- 
berries are  secured  by  insuring  the  rooting  of  the 
cane  tips,  during  the  latter  part  of  summer  and 
transplanting  these  new  plants. 

As  soon  as  the  canes  have  reached  a  height  of  i8 
inches  to  2  feet,  they  may  be  pinched  to  prevent 
their  growing  taller,  to  make  them  stouter,  and  to 

make  them  develop  side 
shoots,  which  should 
also  be  pinched  back 
when  they  have  grown 
a  foot  or  15  inches  long. 
This  practice  obviates 
BLACKCAPS  PRUNED  the    necessity   of   stak- 

ing. Four  or  five  canes 
are  enough  to  allow  grow  each  year  in  the  hill. 
Usually  red  and  white  varieties  are  planted  about 
4  feet  apart  and  the  blackcaps  5  or  6  each  way. 
Sometimes,  however,  they  are  planted  3  feet  apart 
in  the  row,  or  even  closer,  but  then  6  or  7  feet  be- 
tween rows.  The  plantation  properly  managed  will 
continue  in  profitable  bearing  for  five  or  six  years, 
Avhen  it  is  usually  best  to  start  a  new  plantation, 
because  the  fruit  is  likely  to  become  small  and  the 
crop  light. 

Among  the  well-known  varieties  are  Brandywine, 
Cuthbert,  Loudon,  Marlborough,  Miller,  and  Tur- 
ner. The  two  best  known  yellow  sorts  are  Caro- 
line, and  Golden  Queen.  Among  the  purple  sorts 
are    Columbian    and    Shaffer.      Perhaps    the    best 


SMALL   FRUITS  IO7 

known  black  varieties  are  Doolittle,  Gregg,  Kan- 
sas, Mammoth,  Cluster,  Nemaha,  Ohio,  Souhegan, 
Tyler,  and  Eureka. 

RASPBERRY  PLANTATION 

"  Red  raspberries  can  be  successfully  grown  in 
any  part  of  New  Jersey,  and  should  be  planted  in 
every  family  garden,"  writes  Charles  A.  Umoselle 
of  Atlantic  county.  "  There  are  tender  and  hardy 
varieties  as  in  other  plants,  so  a  knowledge  of  the 
best  and  hardiest  eastern  varieties  is  essential.  It 
is  well  to  look  around  and  see  what  varieties  are 
doing  best  in  one's  immediate  neigh- 
borhood before  ordering,  being  sure 
to  get  plants  from  only  reliable 
firms.  This  same  principle  applies 
to  all  other  plants,  fruit  trees,  etc. 

"  I  have  tested  all  the  leading  va- 
rieties of  red  raspberries,  and  find  post  for  rasp- 
the  Loudon  to  take  the  lead  in  both  berry  vines 
hardiness  and  productiveness,  with 
the  Cuthbert  second.  These  are  both  good  varieties, 
good  shippers,  and  also  good  market  varieties.  We 
prefer  the  Loudon  as  a  table  berry,  also  for  canning 
purposes;  it  also  ships  well,  making  a  fine  appear- 
ance in  the  box,  having  a  deep  red  color,  which 
does  not  fade  in  canning. 

"  Raspberries  are  good  feeders,  requiring  a  liberal 
amount  of  plant  food,  and  responding  readily  to 
good  treatment.  If  the  soil  is  not  naturally  in  a 
good  state  of  fertility,  rotted  barnyard  manure 
should  be  applied,  and  the  ground  deeply  plowed 
and  thoroughly  cultivated  or  broken  up  with  a 
harrow  or  clod  smasher  in  a  small  way,  then  well 
spaded  up,  working  in  the  dressing. 


I08  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

"  The  plants  should  then  be  set  In  the  furrow, 
with  roots  well  moistened.  Some  farmers  plow 
the  furrow  with  a  two-horse  plow  and  set  the 
plants  in  the  furrows,  while  others  use  a  line  and  a 
spade,  opening  the  holes  that  the  plants  are  to  go 
into.  In  either  case,  care  must  be  taken  not  to 
break  off  the  small  white  shoots  coming  from 
crown  or  roots,  as  these  are  to  be  the  future  plants. 
Do  not  set  the  plants  too  deep,  or  the  shoots  will 
not  have  a  chance  to  get  to  the  surface.  Care  must 
be  taken  not  to  tramp  the  soil  hard  just  above  the 
crown,  but  more  from  the  sides  and  a  little  dis- 
tance away  from  the  plants.  The 
new  shoots  then  have  a  better 
chance  to  come  to  the  top. 

"  I    always    use    young    plants 

from  new  propagating  beds,  as  in 

setting  strawberries,  because  older 

-^^      bushes  from  fruiting  beds  are  not 

PRUNING        desirable,  in*  many  cases  being  ex- 

RASPBERRiES     haustcd   to   such   an.  extent   as   to 

render    them    unprofitable.      That 

is  where  a  great  many  make  a  mistake  in  setting  out 

old  plants  instead  of  getting  strong,  thrifty  young 

plants.     There  are  many  systems  of  planting,  but  I 

will  only  suggest  a  fe-w. 

SETTING  THE  PLANTS 

"  First  method  is  to  plant  the  raspberries  5  feet 
apart  each  way,  so  as  to  cultivate  with  a  horse 
both  ways;  allow  five  shoots  to  each  hill.  On  a 
large  scale  I  set  plants  in  rows  5  to  6  feet  apart, 
north  to  south,  and  from  3  to  4  feet  in  the  row.  I 
plant  potatoes  every  other  row  north  and  south 
the  first  year,  and   after   that   the   whole  space   is 


SMALL  FRUITS  lOQ 

given  to  the  bushes.  By  the  secona  method,  for  a 
small  garden,  the  plants  can  be  set  in  narrow  rows, 
I  foot  apart  in  the  row,  v/here  the  work  is  to  be 
done  by  hand.  I  would  recommend  the  rows  to  be 
4  feet  apart,  the  farther  the  better.  Four  or  five 
of  the  thriftiest  canes  are  enough  to  allow  grow  and 
mature  each  year.  The  fruit  is  grown  on  the  two- 
year-old  wood.  Cultivation  is  very  important  in 
securing  best  results. 

"  Though  many  people  plant  raspberries,  giving 
no  cultivation  or  care  afterward,  expecting  them 
to  bear  well  just  the  same,  you  can  always  tell  the 
successful  grower  by  looking  at  his  patch  during 
the  picking  season.  His  rows  will  be  found 
straight,  well  cultivated,  free  from  weeds,  with 
plants  not  too  thick  in  the  row,  not  like  the  patch 
of  a  careless  neighbor  at  this  time  a  thick  mass  of 
canes  and  weeds." 

"  We  commenced  growing  berries  about  15  years 
ago,"  writes  Martin  H.  Hunger  of  Wyoming 
county.  New  York.  "  We  had  put  26  acres  of  land, 
planting  at  first  two  or  three  acres  and  gradually 
increasing.  At  present  we  have  12  to  15  acres. 
The  varieties  grown  are  black  and  red  raspberries 
and  blackberries.  Our  soil  is  a  deep,  gravelly  loam, 
rather  light  and  dry.  We  plant  with  potatoes, 
marking  3  feet  both  ways,  and  setting  the  plants 
6  feet  each  way,  so  that  the  cultivation  during  the 
following  years  is  always  both  ways,  thereby  sav- 
ing much  hand  hoeing,  and,  we  think,  producing 
finer  fruit,  although  perhaps  less  in  quantity.  We 
aim  to  cultivate  nearly  every  week  one  way  or  the 
other  from  early  spring  until  about  picking  time, 
after  which  we  give  one  more  good  working  and 
then  cut  out  old  wood.  We  usually  leave  the  red 
raspberry  brush  without  cutting  until  spring,  as  it 


no  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

helps  to  protect  the  canes  from  being  broken  by  the 
snow.  The  principal  varieties  of  raspberries  grown 
are  Gregg,  Cuthbert,  and  Snyder.  The  Snyder  is 
not  doing  as  well  as  formerly,  so  we  are  trying 
other  varieties  with  some  success. 

"  We  find  a  great  difference  in  the  durability  of 
the  different  varieties  of  blackcaps,  Gregg  stand- 
ing from  six  to  ten  years,  while  Eureka  will  last 
but  two  to  four.  Blackcaps  need  good,  new 
ground,  and  blackberries  will  do  very  well  follow- 
ing blackcaps.  We  have  Cuthberts  12  years  old 
as  good  as  any  we  have.  In  fact,  none  of  our  Cuth- 
berts have  run  out.  We  use  a  light  dressing  of 
wood  ashes  nearly  every  year,  and  sometimes  a 
fertilizer  containing  phosphoric  acid  and  potash. 

"  Blackberry  bushes  are  not  trimmed  as  closely 
as  blackcaps,  but  enough  for  convenience  in  culti- 
vating. Red  raspberries  are  not  trimmed  until 
spring.  We  get  an  average  yield  of  perhaps  a 
quart  to  the  bush,  or  50  bushels  to  the  acre,  some- 
times getting  as  many  as  125  crates  to  the  acre  or 
2}/2  quarts  to  the  bush.  The  crop  is  usually  sold 
on  the  local  market,  which  we  have  tried  to  please 
with  fine  fruit  and  fair  dealings.  We  have  been 
rewarded  with  good  prices  and  a  growing  demand." 

As  to  the  pruning  of  raspberries  and  blackberries, 
L.  R.  Johnson  of  Missouri  says :  "  The  one  reason 
for  spring  pruning  is  that  the  tender  blackberries 
and  all  the  raspberries  die  back  more  or  less 
through  the  winter,  and  if  pruned  in  the  fall  would 
have  to  be  pruned  again  in  the  spring  to  remove 
dead  wood.  Some  growers  wait  till  the  blossoms 
open  in  order  to  measure  by  the  bloom  how  much 
wood  to  leave.  And  there  is  good  reason  in  this, 
for  buds  do  not  always  form  regularly  along  the 


SMALL    FRUITS 


III 


cane,  and  so  many  inches  of  wood  cannot  always 
be  relied  on  to  produce  so  many  berries. 

''  In  pruning  raspberries,  first  observe  how  many 
canes  there  are  in  the  hill  and  cut  out  all  over  three 
or  four.  The  number  of  main  canes  should  be  gov- 
erned by  the  size  and  the  number  and  strength  of 
the  laterals.  I  have  seen  one  cane  large  enough  to 
yield  a  hill's  average  crop.  If  the  canes  which 
were  pinched  back  the  year  beforehand  have  sent 
out  several  laterals  or  branch  canes,  these  laterals 
should  be  shortened 
in  to  12  or  15 
inches,  according  to 
their  number  and 
vigor  —  the  more 
laterals  the  shorter 
they  should  be  cut. 

"Blackberries  are 
pruned  much  the 
same.  Four  feet  is 
high  enough  to  per- 
mit them  to  grow. 
Slender,  late,  im- 
mature  canes 
should  be  cut  out 
entirely  if  there  are 

longer  ones.  The  Early  Harvest  especially  needs 
close  pruning.  It  is  an  immense  bearer,  and  a 
severe  cutting  back  often  makes  the  difference  be- 
tween profit  and  loss  in  the  yield." 


YOKE  FOR  TOTING  BERRIES 


THE  STRAWBERRY 


"  There  are  three  prerequisites  to  successful 
strawberry  production — fertile  soil,  strong,  vigor- 
ous,   fruitful    plants,    and    thorough    cultivation," 


112  MAKING   HORTICULTURE  PAY 

writes  W.  H.  Burke  of  St.  Joseph  county,  Michigan. 
"  Anyone  who  will  observe  these  points  in  practice 
may  be  assured  of  success.  We  find  that,  in  order 
to  produce  vigorous  and  fruitful  plants,  we  must 
keep  the  soil  up  to  a  high  state  of  fertility.  To  do 
this,  we  alternate  annually  between  plants  and  field 


STRAWBERRY     PRUNING 
a,  Plant  as  Dug;  b,  Plant  Pruned;  c,  Plant  after  Setting. 

or  cowpeas  or  potatoes.  The  latter  are  still  some- 
what in  the  experimental  state,  although  giving,  as 
far  as  we  have  gone,  every  promise  of  complete  suc- 
cess. After  we  have  turned  under  the  peas,  or  dug 
the  potatoes,  we  cover  the  land  with  a  good  coat- 
ing of  manure,  about  i8  tons  to  the  acre. 


SMALL  FRUITS  II3 

"As  to  plants,  never  accept  poor  ones,  even  as  a 
gift ;  they  only  encumber  good  ground  and  destroy 
the  native  sweetness  of  the  grower's  disposition. 
It  is  a  waste  of  land,  time,  and  money  to  work  with 
anything  but  perfectly  developed  plants.  Having 
the  land  in  good  tilth,  the  grower  should  proceed 
to  get  the  plants  in  readiness  for  setting;  that  is, 
to  prune  them  by  cutting  back  about  one-third 
of  the  roots. 

"  Thrust  a  dibble  into  the  ground  to  the  depth 
of  about  6  inches,  make  an  opening  large  enough 
to  take  in  all  the  roots,  place  these  in  this  opening, 
with  care  to  see  that  they  are  as  nearly  straight  as 
may  be ;  then  remove  the  dibble,  and  with  it  press 
the  soil  firmly  about  the  plant,  using  the  fingers  to 
firm  the  soil  about  the  crown.  When  set,  the 
crown  should  appear  just  above  the  surface  of  the 
ground,  the  shoulder  of  the  roots  being  barely 
covered. 

"  As  soon  as  the  plants  are  in  the  ground  cul- 
tivation should  begin.  This  will  check  the  escape 
of  the  moisture  in  the  soil  by  capillary  action.  In 
setting  the  plants  the  feet  of  the  setters  have  left 
deep  tracks,  which  quickly  become  the  avenues  of 
escape  for  the  imprisoned  moisture.  The  dust 
mulch  made  by  cultivation  closes  up  this  avenue, 
and  the  moisture  must  then  find  its  way  to  the  sur- 
face through  the  roots  and  leaves  of  the  plant ;  and 
this  means  life,  health,  and  strength  for  the  plant. 
In  a  small  patch  this  cultivation  may  be  done  by 
hand  with  a  hoe;  in  a  field  of  considerable  size  a 
hand  cultivator  may  profitably  be  employed,  but 
in  a  commercial  field  a  12-tooth  will  be  found  the 
ideal  implement  for  this  work.  Go  over  the  field 
after  every  rain  as  soon  as  the  earth  becomes 
crumbly.     If  it  doesn't  rain,  go  over  the  field  once 


114  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

a  week  to  preserve  the  dust  mulch  and  thus  keep 
moisture  at  the  roots  and  bring  to  the  plants  a 
fresh  supply  of  food." 

SETTING  THE  PLANTS 

One  of  the  most  important  things  to  do  in  pre- 
paring strawberry  plants  for  setting  is  to  trim  off 
the  dead  leaves  and  the  superfluous  roots.  This 
operation  is  simply  done  by  using  a  pair  of  shears 
and  holding  the  plants  across  the  palm  of  the  hand, 
the  leaves  being  held  between  the  thumb  and  fore- 
finger, which  are  placed  around  the  crown  and  the 
roots  extending  beyond  the  little  finger.  The 
shears  are  then  used  to  snip  off  all  the  leaves  an 
inch  or  so  above  the  hand  and  all  the  roots  that 
extend  beyond  the  hand.  If  the  plants  are  placed 
carefully  in  the  hand,  so  that  the  crowns  are  all 
together,  a  small  handful  of  plants  may  be  trimmed 
at  once. 

The  principal  object  in  doing  this  work  is  to 
increase  the  root  system.  Every  cut  made  on  the 
root  will  soon  callous  over  and  new  roots  form  at 
that  point,  and  as  the  leaf  surface  is  reduced  there 
will  be  a  very  small  amount  of  moisture,  due  to 
transpiration.  The  work  is  best  done  in  a  shady 
place  away  from  the  wind,  and  the  plants  kept 
covered  both  before  and  after  the  operation.  In 
fact,  after  the  cut  is  made  they  may  be  thrown  into 
pails  of  water.  In  setting,  a  shorter  dibble  may  be 
used  than  where  the  full  roots  are  allowed  to  re- 
main.    This  favors  speed  in  setting. 

STRAWBERRY  FERTILIZER 

"  In  general,"  says  Prof.  W.  L.  Howard  of  the 
University   of   Missouri,    "  a   strawberry    fertilizer 


SMALL  FRUITS  II5 

should  contain  the  three  principal  elements  of  plant 
food  in  about  the  following  proportions :  Nitrogen, 
3  per  cent ;  phosphorus,  3  per  cent ;  potassium,  7.5. 
That  is,  every  100  pounds  of  fertilizer  should  con- 
tain 3  pounds  of  nitrogen,  3  pounds  of  phosphorus, 
and  7^  pounds  of  potassium.  The  phosphorus  is 
placed  far  above  the  needs  of  strawberries,  because 
this  fertilizer  is  likely  to  take  insoluble  form  in  the 
soil.  The  ammonia  is  placed  low,  as  top  dressings 
are  made  in  the  spring. 

"  Top  dressings  are  often  made  in  spring,  sum- 
mer, or  fall  on  established  strawberry  fields,  the 
materials  being  worked  in  by  cultivation.  Never 
drop  fertilizers  directly  on  the  plants.  If  nitrogen 
above  the  needs  of  the  plants  is  used,  there  will  be 
an  excessive  leaf  growth  at  the  expense  of  the  fruit- 
ing. There  is  not  much  danger  of  supplying  too 
much  phosphorus  or  potassium,  so  far  as  injury  to 
plants  or  fruit  is  concerned,  as  only  what  is  needed 
will  be  used.     The  rest  is  wasted. 

"  If  it  is  impossible  to  begin  a  year  in  advance, 
nitrogen  may  be  supplied  immediately  by  using 
nitrate  of  soda  in  spring  just  before  setting  the 
plants,  at  the  rate  of  100  to  200  pounds  to  the  acre. 
The  same  amount  of  dried  blood  will  also  answer 
the  same  purpose,  but  it  is  not  so  readily  available 
and  is  more  troublesome  to  apply,  as  it  must  be 
drilled  in  deeply,  so  as  to  rot.  It  does  not  cost  as 
much  as  the  sodium  nitrate.  Sulphate  of  ammonia 
and  cottonseed  meal  also  supply  nitrogen. 

"  Phosphorus  may  be  supplied  by  using  steamed 
bone  meal  at  the  rate  of  200  pounds  to  the  acre, 
drilled  in  the  spring.  It  will  cost  $28  a  ton. 
Rock  phosphate  at  the  rate  of  400  to  500 
pounds  an  acre,  sow^n  broadcast  and  plowed  under 
with  manure  or  cowpeas  in  the  fall,  as  stated,  would 


Il6  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

be  very  good.     AVithout  the  decaying  pea  vines  or 
manure  it  would  not  be  so  efficacious. 

"  Potash  is  best  supplied  by  either  muriate  or 
sulphate  of  potash  at  the  rate  of  50  to  75  pounds 
to  the  acre,  applied  in  spring  just  before  setting  the 
plants.  It  costs  about  $52  a  ton.  Kainit,  200  to 
300  pounds  to  the  acre,  would  answer  the  same 
purpose,  but  it  is  not  so  desirable.  Ordinary  wood 
ashes  may  also  be  used  like  the  other  fertilizers, 
either  in  the  spring  before  planting  or  later  about 
the  plants.  As  much  as  40  to  50  bushels  to  the 
acre  may  be  safely  applied  at  one  time." 

MULCHING  STRAWBERRIES 

"  My  strawberry  plants  are  covered  in  winter 
with  lowland  hay,"  says  S.  H.  Warner  of  Mid- 
dlesex county,  Massachusetts.  ''  I  like  the  long 
blue-jointed  variety  the  best.  It  is  possible  to  put 
it  on  much  more  quickly  than  shorter,  finer  hay. 
This  covering  is  raked  off  about  April   i. 

"  After  the  fruit  is  well  set  short  hay  is  placed  in 
the  paths  to  keep  the  fruit  clean.  The  plants  are 
set  in  September  and  October.  The  narrow  rows 
are  covered  with  forest  leaves  and  sprinkled  with  a 
little  earth  to  keep  the  plants  in  place.  They  make 
a  good  cover,  but  should  be  parted  over  the  crowns 
as  soon  as  the  plants  begin  to  grow. 

"  Some  people  cover  with  pine  boughs.  I 
have  tried  them,  but  do  not  like  them  for  a  cover. 
In  the  first  place  it  takes  too  long  to  do  the  work, 
and,  when  they  are  removed,  in  the  spring,  if  the 
weather  is  cold  many  of  the  plants  are  hurt  unless 
the  branches  are  taken  off  very  early.  The  plants 
start  to  grow  early,  and  spindle  up  under  this  cover 
more  than  under  hay,  and  are  very  tender. 


SMALL  FRUITS  11/ 

"  When  one  is  growing  plants  only  for  the  fruit 
it  is  better  to  cover  with  short  hay.  The  cover 
should  not  be  too  heavy.  It  should  be  put  on  just 
too  thick  to  allow  one  to  see  the  foliage.  In  April 
when  the  plants  begin  to  grow,  I  go  over  the  beds 
and  loosen  up  the  cover  and  let  the  crown  grow 
through  the  hay.  On  high  land  I  use  about  i>^ 
tons  to  the  acre.  On  low  land,  which  heaves  more, 
about  three  tons  to  the  acre  are  spread.  I  do  not 
wait  for  the  ground  to  freeze,  as  I  formerly  did,  but 
cover  the  beds  during  the  first  two  weeks  of  No- 
vember." 

"  The  operation  of  mulching  in  strawberry  cul- 
ture," says  R.  B.  Rushing  of  Illinois,  "  serves  dif- 
ferent purposes,  depending  upon  the  locality  in 
which  the  plants  are  grown.  A  mulch  acts  as  a 
protection  from  cold,  prevents  freezing  and  thaw- 
ing and  the  consequent  lifting  of  the  plants.  It 
retards  growth  in  cold  regions  by  shading  the 
crowns  and  maintaining  a  low  soil  temperature 
longer  than  in  soil  not  mulched.  It  acts  as  a  con- 
server  of  moisture,  retards  weed  growth  by  smoth- 
ering the  young  seedlings  and  finally  protects  the 
fruit  from  contact  with  the  soil. 

"  The  materials  which  can  be  used  for  mulching 
are  various,  but  their  value  depends  largely  upon 
their  freedom  from  weed  seeds  and  their  fitness  to 
protect  the  plants  without  smothering  them.  Whole 
or  cut  straw  free  from  grains,  strawy  manure  from 
the  horse  stable,  and  pine  straw  from  the  forest  are 
among  the  more  common  mulching  materials.  I 
always  use  wheat  straw,  as  it  has  given  me  good 
satisfaction.  However,  almost  any  material  that 
will  protect  the  plants  will  do. 

"  Experience  has  taught  me  that  where  the 
ground    freezes    and    thaws    several    times    in    the 


Il8  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

course  of  the  winter,  it  is  best  to  put  on  the  mulch 
as  soon  as  the  ground  is  sufficiently  frozen  to  allow 
driving  upon  it  with  a  loaded  cart  or  wagon.  Where 
the  freezing  of  the  soil  is  only  superficial  or  only 
temporary,  if  at  all,  the  mulch  serves  the  purpose 
of  a  protection  from  the  wind  more  than  from  frost, 
and  in  such  sections  the  mulch  should  be  put  on  as 
soon  as  active  growth  ceases.  Sometimes  it  is 
allowed  to  remain  until  after  the  crop  is  harvested." 
I  sometimes  remove  the  mulch  early  and  give  the 
plants  thorough  cultivation  before  the  fruits  are 
more  than  half  grown;  then,  if  it  seems  desirable 
to  protect  the  fruit  from  the  earth,  the  mulch  is 
replaced  for  that  purpose." 

As  to  mulching  strawberries,  W.  W.  Farnsworth 
of  Lucas  county,  Ohio,  says:  "Our  ]\Iichigan 
friends  do  not  mulch  strawberries  as  much  as  we 
do,  and  they  have  more  snow.  Their  principal 
market  is  Chicago,  where  they  find  that  early 
berries  bring  the  best  prices.  The  strawberry  not 
mulched  will  ripen  several  days  earlier  than  the 
mulched  ones,  so  a  great  many  having  sandy  soil 
do  not  mulch.  Mr.  AVelch  of  Douglas  plants  rows 
of  corn  through  the  strawberries,  every  three  or 
four  rows,  I  think.  He  lets  the  stalks  stand,  and 
if  they  do  so,  fall  over.  This  protects  from  the  wind, 
and  catches  the  snow,  and  at  the  same  time  it 
acts  as  a  mulch.  Of  this  it  can  be  said  that  it  does 
not  rob  the  soil  of  moisture  as  do  oats  and  barley 
when  used  as  mulch." 

PICKING 

"  Picking  strawberries  on  my  place,"  writes  J.  F. 
Thomas  of  Cambria  county,  Pennsylvania,  "  usually 
begins  about  June  15  or  20  and  continues  through 


SMALL   FRUITS  IIQ 

the  first  week  in  July,  and  sometimes  later.  In 
some  instances  largest  pickings  were  made  on  and 
after  July  4.  Boys  and  girls  of  neighboring  fam- 
ilies make  up  the  picking  force,  i^  cents  a  quart 
basket  is  the  price  paid  for  picking.  Pickers  are 
required  to  grade  berries  carefully.  The  largest 
and  most  shapely  berries  go  into  the  first,  and 
smaller  ones,  as  well  as  large,  ill-shaped  specimens, 
compose  the  second  grade. 

**  When  picking  has  been  kept  back  by  wet 
weather,  and  there  are  many  soft  berries, 
there  is  a  third  grade  made  which  is  used 
for  wine,  etc.  As  nearly  all  the  fruit  is  sold  in 
nearby  local  markets,  there  is  no  necessity  for  stor- 
age facilities.  Most  of  the  berries  are  on  sale 
within  an  hour  after  picking.  The  crop  is  nearly 
all  retailed  from  wagon  direct  to  customers.  The 
second  grade  is  sold  at  about  2  cents  less  than 
first  grade,  and  is  popular  for  canning,  jam,  etc. 
They  are  considered  more  desirable  than  larger 
berries  shipped  in  from  the  south  and  east,  being 
firmer,  of  better  flavor,  and  almost  entirely  free 
from  sand.  All  sorting  and  selling  is  done  on  the 
square.  Baskets  are  filled,  shaken  down,  and 
topped  out  before  packing  in  crate.  Bubach  and 
Glen  Mary  are  the  most  profitable  varieties  yet 
tried.  The  market  here  demands  large-sized  ber- 
ries, and  the  two  mentioned  meet  the  requirements. 

"  On  account  of  the  late  frosts  the  cultivation  of 
early  varieties  is  not  profitable.  An  experimental 
patch  is  continued  from  year  to  year  in  which  the 
newer  varieties  are  grown  and  watched.  After 
picking  is  over,  the  mulch  is  raked  and  stacked  for 
use  another  season.  The  ground  is  plowed  deeply 
and  sown  to  Canada  field  peas,  to  be  turned  under 
in  fall  for  berry  patch  or  other  crop  the  next  year." 


120  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

THE  FRUITED  BED 

"  As  soon  as  we  are  done  picking,"  writes 
Mathew  Crawford  of  Cuyahoga  county,  Ohio,  "  we 
plow  the  bed  and  harrow  it,  then  sow  it  to  cow- 
peas  and  harrow  it  again.  This  is  the  most  satis- 
factory method  that  we  have  tried.  It  destroys 
insect  enemies  and  fungous  diseases  before  they 
get  well  established.  The  land  may  be  planted  to 
strawberries  the  next  season.  Since  adopting  this 
plan  we  have  rarely  seen  any  necessity  for  spray- 
ing." 

I.  A.  Thayer  of  Lawrence  county,  Pennsylvania, 
handles  his  bed  dififerently.  He  writes:  "As  soon 
as  the  last  picker  is  out  of  the  field,  I  run  the  mower 
over  the  strawberry  bed  to  clip  the  tops.  After 
they  have  dried  a  day,  I  shake  up  the  straw  mulch 
and  when  a  breeze  arises,  fire  the  straw  on  the 
windward  side.  Then,  if  I  am  to  fruit  the  field 
another  season,  I  run  a  small  plow  within  4  or  5 
inches  of  the  plants,  and  not  more  than  4  inches 
deep.  Into  this  furrow  I  put  what  fertilizer  I  am 
to  use,  usually  half  rotted  stable  manure,  super- 
phosphate and  sulphate  of  potash,  and  cultivate  the 
earth  back  upon  it.  Then  I  give  frequent  cultiva- 
tion and  clipping  of  the  runners  so  long  as  the 
ground  can  be  worked  in  the  fall." 


CHAPTER  IX 

The  Vegetable  Garden 

Good  gardeners  viake  good  gardens ; 
Good  gardens  make  good  crops  ; 
Good  crops  make  good  prices  ; 
Good  prices  make  good  gardeners. 

—Sol  O'Man. 

*'  It  is  unfortunate  that  so  many  farm  gardens 
are  ruined  at  the  outset  by  inferior  seed.  In  the 
country,"  writes  A.  B.  Ross  of  Pennsylvania,  **  we 
depend  on  the  country  store  for  our  seed  far  too 
much,  and  we  are  careless.  Look  out  for  the 
gaudily  illustrated  seed  box.  If  you  knew  its  hoary 
and  shameless  record  you  might  believe  in  total 
depravity.  Old  seed,  inferior  seed,  everything  that 
makes  the  garden  third  rate,  is  hidden  in  the  little 
5-cent  envelope.  And,  if  your  congressman  gets 
the  government  to  send  you  garden  seed,  vote 
against  him ;  he  hasn't  enough  sense  to  be  allowed 
at  large  in  Washington.  Just  why  it  is  that  our 
great  agricultural  department  does  not  put  out 
better  garden  seed,  I  cannot  understand.  In  our 
farming  work  we  have  had  invaluable  and  most 
accurate  assistance  from  the  government  for  several 
years;  it  would  be  hard  to  over-estimate  the  benefit, 
but  as  for  the  garden  seed,  we  will  have  none  of  it. 

"  As  a  matter  of  fact,  there  is  no  such  thing  as 
cheap  seed.  Twenty  dollars  a  pound  for  cauli- 
flower seed  the  Long  Island  truckers  pay,  and  are 
glad  of  the  chance  to  get  it.  They  could  buy  for 
$5  a  pound,  but  they  could  not  afford  to  take  that 

121 


122 


MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 


seed  as  a  gift.  Start  in  right. 
]\Iake  up  your  mind  to  pay  a  good 
price  for  good  seed,  and  pay  it 
without  a  whimper.  There  is  no 
use  in  sowing  trouble  and  disap- 
pointment. 

"  Write  for  catalogs  to  reliable 
seed  houses.     You  will  find  their 
advertisements  in  the  better-class 
farm     journals     and     magazines. 
When  you  get  the  catalogs,  get 
to  work.     The  study  of  catalogs 
is  much  harder  work  than  plant- 
ing the  garden.     Apparently  seed 
houses  lack  sense  of  both  humor 
and     proportion.     About     every- 
thing   they    advertise    is 
mended  so  highly  that  choosing  just  which 
to  plant  is  as  difficult  as  threading  a  needle 
in  the  dark. 


SPADES 


recom- 


FRANKNESS  COMMENDED 


"  I  wish  to  pay  a  tribute  to  a  man  in 
Iowa  for  his  courage.  I  have  never  used 
his  seed,  because  when  I  got  his  catalog 
I  had  supplied  myself  with  about  all  I 
needed.  But  his  style  in  commenting  on 
his  wares  is  refreshing.  He  has  not  the 
least  hesitation  in  condemning  some  of 
the  seeds  he  lists ;  and  when  he  has  some- 
thing which  he  thinks  is  of  high  grade, 
he  says  so  with  the  same  wholesome  can- 
dor. After  all,  if  you  study  it  out,  there 
is  considerable  shrewd  sense  in  his  frank-  garden 
ness.    It  inspires  trust.     I  wish  that  some     fork 


THE   VEGETABLE   GARDEN  1 23 

of  the  eastern  seed  houses  would  inculcate  that 
same  spirit.  It  would  save  the  poor  worried  buyer 
a  lot  of  trouble. 

''  The  safest  seed  house,  however,  is  your  own 
garret.  When  you  raise  something  which  grades 
high,  be  sure  to  save  and  cure  your  own  seed ;  and 
always  try  to  save  an  extra  supply  to  provide 
against  the  hard  luck  of  a  bad  season. 

"  The  seed  houses  are  beginning  to  realize  more 
and  more  the  necessity  of  growing  some  of  their 
seed  in  the  north,  under  invigorating  climatic  con- 
ditions. In  comparative  experiments  I  have  found 
that  seed  from  far  north  gave  plants  that  would 
make  more  vigorous  growth,  yield  better  quality 
of  garden  stufif  and  resist  drouth,  frost,  and  disease 
better  than  their  southern  competitors.  Bush  beans, 
for  instance,  from  eastern  and  from  northern  seed 
were  planted  side  by  side ;  a  late  frost  did  not  seri- 
ously injure  the  one  set  of  plants,  but  almost  totally 
destroyed  the  other. 

PLANTS    FOR    TRANSPLANTING 

"  House-raised  plants  are  never  so  thrifty  as 
those  raised  in  hotbeds  and  cold  frames.  In  the 
latter  the  growth  is  quicker,  more  uniform  and  the 
process  of  hardening  off  can  be  begun,  as  it  should 
be,  a  month  after  the  plants  have  made  their  ap- 
pearance. Cauliflower,  tomatoes,  peppers,  egg- 
plants, and  onions  go  into  the  hotbed ;  lettuce, 
beets,  cabbage,  etc.,  into  the  cold  frame ;  although 
all  may  be  planted  in  the  hotbed  if  necessary. 
Larger  onions  can  be  raised  in  this  way  than  from 
the  sets,  and  of  far  better  quality.  Prize-taker  for 
fall  use,  and  Red  and  Yellow  Southport  for  win- 


124 


MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 


ter   use,   is    a    good    selection.      Onions   and   beets 
transplant  readily,  and  with  almost  no  loss. 

''  Be  careful  in  the  use  of  water  in  botli  hotbed 
and  cold  frame.  Too  little  is  better  than  too  much. 
If  you  water  too  often,  the  plants  will  damp  off; 
that  is,  wither  in  the  stem  and  die. 

**  If  you  cannot  raise  a 
good  crop  of  peas  or 
beans,  your  garden  is 
probably  sour.  Air-slaked 
lime,  not  water-slaked,  at 
the  rate  of  25  to  30 
bushels  of  burnt  lime  to 
the  acre,  will  correct  the 
acidity.  It  is  better  to 
spread  the  lime  in  the 
fall.  Wood  ashes,  in  lib- 
eral quantities,  put  on  in 
the  spring,  will  also 
sweeten  a  sour  soil,  be- 
sides adding  potash  and 
phosphoric  acid,  and  im- 
proving the  physical  con- 
dition of  the  garden. 
Never  use  coal  ashes  for 
fertilizer;  they  have  no 
value.  If  you  have  been 
troubled  by  wire  worms 
or  snails,  fall  plowing,  fol- 
lowed by  an  application  of  kainit  at  the  rate  of 
1,000  pounds  an  acre,  will  rid  the  land  of  these. 


DIBBLES  AND  TROWELS 


IMPORTANCE  OF  PLANNING  AHEAD 


"  Don't  wait  till  the  last  minute  to  plan  the  gar- 
den.    Plan  to  get  two  crops,  where  possible,  in  one 


THE   VEGETABLE    GARDEN  I25 

season.  In  the  onion  bed  and  between  the  early- 
beets  plant  parsnips  and  salsify.  They  will  not 
interfere  with  each  other  at  all.  If  the  corn  is 
checked,  bush  limas  may  be  planted  one  way  of 
the  hills,  and  a  good  crop  gathered,  without  hurt- 
ing the  corn.  Some  strains  of  bush  lima  are  im- 
mensely prolific,  and  will  furnish  fine  beans,  either 
for  summer  or  winter  use.  Turnips  also  may  be 
sowed  among  the  corn,  late  in  July,  after  cultiva- 
tion of  the  corn  has  ceased.  In  the  spring  the 
space  between  the  heads  of  lettuce  may  be  used 
for  early  beets,  planting  alternately  lettuce  and 
beets  4  inches  apart  in  the  row. 

"  Here  is  a  list  showing  how  one  good  crop  may 
follow  another:  First  crop — Peas,  bush  beans, 
early  cabbage,  early  potatoes,  lettuce,  early  beets. 
Second  crop — Celery,  late  cabbage  or  turnips,  late 
peas,  turnips  or  celery,  late  peas  or  turnips,  corn, 
celery,  turnips  or  peas,  winter  radishes,  lettuce, 
peas,  etc.,  late  beets,  for  fall  and  winter,  to  replace 
early  beets  as  used. 

"  Do  not  transplant  just  after  a  rain.  The  ground 
will  cake.  If  at  the  time  of  transplanting  it  is  dry 
weather,  cut  back  the  leaves  from  a  third  to  a  half 
and  be  sure  to  press  the  earth  firmly  to  the  roots, 
with  an  oblique  downward  thrust  of  the  lingers. 

"  No  matter  how  good  the  seed  and  the  garden 
bed,  frequent  and  careful  cultivation  is  needed  to 
bring  first-class  garden  stuff.  Generally  speaking, 
rapid  growth,  without  setback,  is  necessary,  and 
lack  of  cultivation  by  retarding  growth,  tends  to 
make  inferior  garden  stufiF. 

"  The  farmer's  main  advantage  over  his  city 
brother  is  in  his  ability  to  have  absolutely  fresh 
vegetables;  but  I  have  so  often  seen  this  advan- 
tage carelessly  lost  that  I  can't  help  calling  atten- 


126  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

tion  to  the  obvious  fact  that  the  minute  garden 
stuff  is  taken  from  the  garden  deterioration  begins. 
From  garden  to  pot  with  all  speed;  and  from  pot 
to  table,  cooked  tender,  but  not  overdone ;  crisp  as 
becomes  a  self-respecting  vegetable,  not  water- 
logged, flat,  and  insipid.  Boiling  in  salted  water 
helps  to  retain  both  color  and  firmness;  and  a 
vegetable  ought  to  look  just  as  good  as  it  tastes." 

GARDEN  PROFITS 

"  During  the  last  seven  years  I  have  been  en- 
gaged in  vegetable  gardening  near  Columbus, 
Ohio,  in  which  city  all  the  produce  has  been  mar- 
keted," writes  Prof. 
V.  H.  Davis.  "  All 
the  principal  veg- 
etables have  been 
grown  with  more  or 
less  success,  but  we 

W^ELBARROW  ^^^^       ^^^^^^       ^O^" 

lowed  the  plan 
of  making  a  specialty  of  two  or  three  crops,  grow- 
ing only  such  others  as  will  fit  in  with  these  to  the 
best  advantage. 

"  There  is  no  doubt  that  a  system  of  close  and 
double  cropping,  with  a  very  large  use  of  manures, 
both  animal  and  mineral,  is  the  most  profitable  plan 
where  sufficient  labor  and  capital  are  available  to 
carry  it  out  properly.  These  have  been  sadly  lacking 
in  many  cases  with  our  own  gardens,  but  unavoid- 
ably so.  Our  results  may,  perhaps,  be  taken  as 
showing  the  possibilities  of  certain  individual  crops 
under  fairly  average  gardening  conditions,  rather 
than  the  possible  yield  from  a  given  area  of  ground. 

"  No  crop  has  been   more  uniformly  profitable 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN  1 27 

with  US  than  tomatoes.  While  we  have  not  always 
been  in  the  market  with  the  first  locally  grown 
tomatoes,  ours  have  usually  been  acknowledged  to 
be  the  best.  Livingston's  Stone  is  grown  almost 
exclusively.  Seed  is  sown  in  the  greenhouse  from 
February  15  to  20.  AMien  the  plants  are  2  or  3  inches 
high  they  are  transplanted  to  the  beds  in  the  green- 
house, or  preferably  to  the  hotbeds,  6  inches  apart 
each  way.  This  gives  room  for  a  large,  stocky 
growth,  and,  by  May  10,  the  plants  are  usually  12  to 
20  inches  high,  and  showing  their  first  blossoms.  We 

transplant     to     the  „ 

field  during  the  first  Js^^^^m 

favorable     weather  jrm^^^^m\. 

after  M  ay  10.  v^^__.^,^  -JCiX;' '  '/  "^^ /A 
Sometimes  the  ^^^^^^^i^^^;  ^:^^#i--^l 
plants   have    to    be  \  l/\/WP^^^^'^W^^  I 

covered   to   protect  \u  ^^^£&SSA  jf 

but      the      possible 

gain   in  earliness  is 

worth    the     risk.      If    frost    nips    these     early-set 

plants  we  lose  only  the  small  money  cost  of  plants 

and  the  value  of  the  time  required  to  set;   whereas 

if  the  plants  thrive  we  gain  greatly  because  of  the 

extra  early  fruits  secured. 

"  The  distance  apart  will  depend  upon  whether 
the  plants  are  to  be  staked  or  allowed  to  lie  on  tTie 
ground.  Those  intended  for  the  early  market  are 
usually  staked  and  planted  20  to  24  inches  apart  in 
rows  2}4  feet  apart.  The  latter  crop  is  usually 
allowed  to  lie  on  the  ground,  and  the  plants  are  set 
2  feet  apart  in  rows  3  to  3^^  feet  apart.  In  both 
cases,  however,  the  vines  are  carefully  pruned  to 
one  or  two  stalks.  This  pruning  consists  in  re- 
moving the  shoots  from  the  axils  of  the  leaves  as 


BARREL  TRLXK 


128  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

soon  as  formed.  It  is  necessary  to  go  over  the 
vines  about  three  times  in  an  ordinary  season,  and 
in  a  very  wet  season  perhaps  four  times.  No  other 
work  in  connection  with  the  crop  will  prove  more 
profitable. 

"  We  usually  begin  to  pick  tomatoes  July  5  to  10. 
All  that  we  can  ripen  before  August  i  usually  bring 
from  $3  to  $7  a  bushel.  From  August  10  to  Sep- 
tember I  the  price  usually  falls  below  $1,  and  often 
as  low  as  50  cents  a  bushel.  From  September  i 
until  frost  destroys  the  vines  the  price  gradually 
rises  again,  on  account  of  the  demand  for  canning 
purposes.  A  patch  of  plants  in  their  prime  during 
the  latter  period  will  always  be  profitable.  This 
late  crop  usually  follows  early  peas,  potatoes,  or 
cabbage.  When  serious  frost  threatens,  the  plants 
are  carefully  pulled,  put  in  small  piles  and  covered 
with  straw.  Ripe  tomatoes  may  be  secured  in  this 
way  until  Thanksgiving.  They  always  bring  a 
good  price.  The  green  ones  thus  saved  are  also  in 
demand  for  chowder,  pickles,  etc. 

"  Last  season  we  had  a  total  of  1.04  acres  in 
tomatoes,  and  the  gross  income  from  this  area  was 
$410.57.  The  common  idea  that  tomatoes  do  best 
on  poor  soil  is  fallacious.  We  give  our  tomatoes 
the  best  soil  we  have,  and  believe  results  justify  it. 

"  Sweet  corn  is,  in  many  respects,  the  second 
most  satisfactory  crop  we  raise.  While  the  in- 
come an  acre  is  not  as  large  as  with  some  other 
crops,  the  cost  of  production  is  very  low,  requiring 
no  hand  labor  except  picking  the  ears.  Early 
Cory  is  grown  for  very  early  corn  and  Country 
Gentleman,  Stowell's  Evergreen,  and  Columbus 
Market  as  main  crops.  Plantings  are  so  made  that 
a  continuous  supply  may  be  had  from  the  beginning 
to  the  end  of  the  season. 


THE  VEGETABLE   GARDEN  I29 

"  Another  crop  that  all  gardeners  should  grow  is 
asparagus.  It  is  one  of  the  easiest  grown  and  one 
of  the  most  profitable  single  crops.  It  requires  a 
very  rich  soil,  and  has  the  disadvantage  of  occupy- 
ing the  ground  the  entire  season,  making  double 
cropping  impossible.  We  cut  $64.95  worth  from 
0.35  acre  that  had  stood  over  20  years.  Another 
year  we  cut  $44.94  worth  from  0.20  acre  of  five- 
year-old  plants,  or  at  the  rate  of  $224.20  an  acre. 
While  the  yield  is  not  as  large  as  with  some  other 
crops,  the  small  amount  of  care  required  makes  it 
one  of  the  most  profitable. 

GRADING  ESSENTIAL  TO  SUCCESS 

"  Everything  we  sell  is  carefully  sorted  and  care- 
fully prepared  for  the  market.  The  lower  the  price, 
the  more  carefully  we  try  to  sort  and  grade.  Our 
first-grade  tomatoes  usually  bring  25  cents  to  $i 
more  than  the  average  market  price.  The  culls 
are  sold  for  what  they  will  bring  for  immediate  use, 
and  the  demand  for  this  grade  is  greater  than  we 
can  supply,  for,  by  our  way  of  growing  tomatoes, 
the  percentage  of  culls  is  very  small,  except  in  very 
wet  weather,  when  the  cracked  fruit  must  go  into 
that  class^ 

''  We  go  direct  to  the  customers,  solicit  their 
orders,  and,  if  desired,  deliver  in  the  evening  of  the 
same  day  directly  from  our  own  wagon.  The  re- 
sult is  we  have  built  up  a  list  of  select  patrons,  who 
appreciate  perfectly  fresh  garden  stuff,  and  who 
are  willing  to  pay  a  reasonable  price  for  it.  Any 
surplus  over  and  above  the  amount  this  list  will 
take  is  readily  disposed  of  through  the  usual  market 
channels,  where  we  generally  find  ourselves  in  the 
enviable  position  of  having  the  buyers  competing 
among  themselves  for  our  stuff. 


130 


MAKING   HORTICULTURE  PAY 


"  We  set  a  reasonable  price  on  our  stuff  from  day 
to  day,  and  people  may  take  it  or  leave  it,  just  as 
they  choose.  The  man  who  cuts  prices  not  only 
injures  himself,  but  his  neighbor  also.  He  will 
always  be  expected  to  cut  prices  and  will  probably 
find  difficulty  in  selling  his  produce  unless  he  does. 
In  his  hurry  to  sell  out  and  get  home  his  price  is 
often  lowered  beyond  what  the  supply  would  war- 
rant, to  the  injury  of  every  gardener  and  the  benefit 
of  every  dealer. 

"To  illustrate  my  meaning:  A  season  or  two 
ago  cucumbers  were  selling  at  40  cents  a  dozen, 
and  the  dealers  were  retailing  them 
at  5  cents  apiece.  A  certain  gar- 
dener came  into  the  market  with  a 
quantity  and  a  desire  to  get  away 
quickly.  He  sold  the  load  for  20 
cents  a  dozen,  thereby  establish- 
ing that  price  for  this  article  for 
the  entire  market,  yet,  on  account 
of  the  scarcity  the  dealer  continued 
to  retail  cucumbers  at  5  cents  each 
for  nearly  three  weeks.  The  gar- 
deners lost  20  cents  a  dozen  and 
the  dealer  made  20  cents  more 
profit  a  dozen  than  supply  and  demand  warranted. 
*'  This  is  only  one  of  scores  of  such  instances. 
Farmers  are  still  too  willing  to  ask  what  pros- 
pective customers  will  give  them,  instead  of  reckon- 
ing cost  of  production  and  percentage  of  profit  and 
then  demanding  a  reasonable  selling  price.  Of 
course,  it  takes  courage  to  break  away  from  the 
old-established  custom  and  place  a  value  on  one's 
own  farm  produce,  and  to  refuse  to  sell  for  less. 
But  this  becomes  easier  when  the  stuff  is  well 
graded  and  shows  superior  quality." 


WEEDERS 


THE   VEGETABLE   GARDEN  I3I 

BREEZY  NOTES  BY  WOMAN  GARDENER 

"  Truckers  say  that  after  seed  is  sown  we  should 
either  roll,  slap,  or  tramp  the  ground,"  says  Mrs. 
Preston  Kuntz  of  Pennsylvania.  "  I  never  do  that 
This  method  should  be  used  only  on  dry  and  sandy 
soil.  I  gently  pat  with  my  hand  or  the  hoe;  this 
is  sufficient  to  settle  the  ground.  If  a  dashing  rain 
comes  I  loosen  the  ground  with  a  rake  as  soon  as 
fit.  A  heavy  soil  should  not  get  even  the  gentle 
pat.  In  setting  plants  I  give  the  soil  only  a  gentle 
squeeze.  I  open  chicken  eggs  at  the  small  end, 
use  the  eggs  and  save  the  shells.  In  these  I  sow 
watermelons,  lima  beans,  etc.  When  signs  of  life 
are  showing,  I  open  the  other  end  of  the  shell  to  let 
out  the  roots.  I  set  them  in  old  calico  bags,  made 
about  the  size  of  a  5-cent  salt  bag.  When  the 
weather  permits  I  set  them  in  the  garden.  The 
bags  soon  decay. 

"  I  sow  onion  seed  in  rows  2  feet  broad  and  50 
feet  long.  I  do  not  wait  for  weeds  to  sprout  in 
hotbed  or  garden  before  sowing.  Weeds  are  a 
blessing.  Millions  of  them  come  up,  but  I  soon 
remove  them  when  they  are  the  size  of  a  pin.  This 
loosens  the  ground  around  the  onions  and  encour- 
ages quick  growth.  A  man  could  not  do  this.  He 
is  too  clumsy.  It  requires  deft  fingers.  Methods, 
like  authorities,  are  guides.  One  must  use  his  own 
judgment  and  select  what  is  most  suitable. 
Through  my  hotbed  runs  a  cement  walk.  Tender 
plants  started  in  the  house  in  boxes  are  placed  on 
the  walk  during  the  day  and  kept  in  a  living  room 
at  night.  After  my  garden  is  plowed  there  is  about 
2  feet  of  ground  along  the  fence  left  unturned. 
This  I  plant  to  strawberries  to  save  spading.  Melon 
vines  are  delicate.     Flour  will  kill  them,  so  will  a 


132  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

little  too  much  bug  poison.  All  I  did  last  year  was 
to  disturb  their  enemies.  I  used  old  cider,  also  old 
sauerkraut.  To  this  I  added  water.  It  is  good, 
but  I  had  to  go  over  the  vines  every  day  for  about 
one  week. 

*'  I  never  raise  seeds.  The  space  they  require  I 
replant  and  find  it  pays  better.  Besides,  many  dif- 
ferent varieties  mix  when  planted  close.  One 
should  not  become  wedded  to  one  seed  company. 
Try  all  new  varieties  and  retain  the  best.  Gifts  of 
seeds  should  not  be  allowed;  their  worth  is  spoiled. 
When  people  have  to  pay  for  anything  they  appre- 
ciate it  and  will  take  better  care  than  when  they  get 
something  for  nothing.  We  once  got  two  mail  bags 
full  of  seeds  from  Washington.  We  had  more  pack- 
ages of  seeds  than  we  had  people  to  whom  to  give 
them.  The  mice  problem  was  solved  when  I  found 
part  of  the  government  seeds  devoured.  I  occa- 
sionally meet  people  who  show  me  some  of  these 
seeds  and  ask  what  they  are.  Many  get  seeds  they 
don't  want  or  can't  plant.  Pole  beans,  cantaloupes, 
etc.,  are  seldom  grown  on  small  lots.  They  require 
much  space  and  trouble.  A  trucker  should  know 
the  name  of  every  vegetable  he  grows.  Should 
also  know  what  the  ground  contains  and  what  to 
apply. 

GAINING  AND  RETAINING  CUSTOMERS 

"  Well  raised  vegetables  speak  for  themselves.  A 
batch  of  well  grown  corn  suddenly  became  a  little 
too  hard  for  table  use.  Wishing  to  sell,  I  told  the 
people  that  the  corn  was  just  at  the  right  stage  to 
make  the  best  corn  fritters.  The  corn  grates  better 
if  it  is  a  little  hard.  Congratulations  are  bestowed 
on  beneficial  honesty.     A  person  should  be  frank 


THE   VEGETABLE   GARDEN  133 

and  never  get  angry.  My  time  is  precious,  and 
some  people  are  talkative.  The  best  way  to  handle 
them  is  to  listen  and  move  quickly  before  they  com- 
mence to  talk  another  blue  streak.  Cheerfulness, 
with  sometimes  just  a  dash  of  sauce,  will  help  in 
selling  produce.  Over-measurement  is  just  as  bad 
as  under-measurement.  People  of  good  sense  know 
that  the  best  can't  be  raised  for  nothing. 

"  Novelties  are  expensive,  but,  as  I  seldom  fail, 
they  pay.  Pocahontas,  a  new  sugar  corn  put  out 
by  Henderson,  is  the  earliest  and  best  I  have  ever 
had.  Burpee's  New  Bush  Lima  beans  are  good. 
Outermont  Beauty  melon  failed,  a  fault  of  my  own. 
Silver  Self-Blanching  celery  is  beautiful.  Besides, 
these  I  tried  some  new  nameless  varieties.  Among 
them  was  Burpee's  new  lettuce,  which  is  fine.  In- 
vincible and  Cornet  asters  are  the  grandest  flowers 
I  raise.  The  cut  flowers  put  in  clean  water  every 
day  will  stay  fresh  for  four  weeks. 

"  From  48  hills  I  sold  $7  worth  of  watermelons  and 
$15  worth  of  radishes,  raised  between  the  melons. 
From  a  patch  15  x  40  feet  I  sold  $40  worth  of  let- 
tuce and  took  from  the  same  ground  a  crop  of 
endive.  My  largest  crop  was  radishes,  which 
amounted  to  $77.25.  The  garden  is  100  feet  broad 
and  about  300  feet  long.  I  cleared  $400,  including 
$25  received  as  first  premium  for  one  display  of 
vegetables.  About  100  varieties  were  raised  on  this 
plot  of  ground." 

WESTERN  WOMAN'S  GARDEN 

Mrs.  H.  M.  Woodward  of  Illinois  writes  of  her 
profitable  garden  as  follows :  *'  Our  plot  of  ground 
is  150  X  165  feet,  and  we  have  the  use  of  another 
lot  near  by  which  is  50  x  165  feet.     Nearly  half  of 


134  MAKING    HORTICULTURE    PAY 

this  lot  is  used  as  a  chicken  park,  but  we  have 
several  plum  trees  of  bearing  age  planted  in  it. 

"  As  we  grow  considerable  fruit,  much  of  the 
garden  is  permanent,  but  all  the  vegetables  used  in 
the  family  are  grown,  with  the  exception  of  winter 
potatoes.  Lettuce,  radishes,  and  onions  are  planted 
early,  a  second  and  sometimes  a  third  planting 
being  made  of  the  first  two.  As  soon  as  the 
ground  can  be  worked  peas  are  planted,  and  as 
none  but  those  which  are  planted  early  are  a  suc- 
cess here,  we  plant  in  this  way:  Three  varieties, 
an  early,  a  medium,  and  a  late  sort,  are  planted  at 
the  same  time,  thus  furnishing  a  succession  for  a 
long  time.  If  the  season  is  cold  and  backward  we 
sometimes  make  another  planting  a  few  weeks 
later,  using  only  an  early  sort. 

"  Seed  of  onion,  parsnip,  carrot,  beet,  squash, 
sweet  pumpkin,  water  and  muskmelon,  string  and 
shell  beans  and  cucumbers  are  planted  in  their  sea- 
son, while  tomato,  cabbage,  celery,  cauliflower,  and 
parsley  are  grown  in  hotbed  and  cold  frame  until 
proper  time  to  plant  them  in  the  garden.  Peas  are 
followed  by  celery,  winter  radish,  late  cabbage,  and 
cauliflower,  all  ground  being  made  to  raise  two 
crops,  if  possible. 

"  Sweet  corn  is  planted  like  peas,  three  varieties 
being  planted  as  early  in  the  season  as  possible,  two 
later  plantings  being  made  of  two  varieties  each, 
and  when  the  strawberry  bed  is  done  fruiting  it  is 
plowed  under  and  planted  to  any  early  variety  of 
corn.  The  plan  furnishes  us  with  sweet  corn  for 
the  table  from  July  20  till  killing  frost,  which  is 
due  here  about  October   15. 

"  Last  season  the  latest  corn  was  planted  July  7, 
and  was  ready  for  use  in  ten  weeks,  the  last  of  it 
being  frozen  on  the  stalks  just  before  the  middle 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN  135 

of  October.  An  asparagus  bed,  clumps  of  pieplant 
and  horse-radish,  and  a  little  bed  of  parsley  furnish 
what  is  needed  of  these  things  and  occupy  but  little 
space, 

"  The  seedlings  raised  in  the  hotbed,  and  also 
seedlings  of  flowering  plants,  find  ready  sale  at  fair 
prices,  so  a  little  revenue  is  derived  from  them.  As 
it  is  necessary  to  have  the  hotbeds  to  grow  plants 
for  our  own  use,  it  is  but  little  more  work  to  raise 
extra  plants  for  sale. 

"  We  have  50  grapevines  of  over  40  varieties,  all 
of  fruiting  age,  ranging  in  season  of  ripening  from 
August  25  to  October  10;  in  color,  red,  white,  and 
black.  No  idea  can  be  given  of  the  amount  of  fruit 
the  vines  produce,  as  the  grapes  were  picked  for 
family  use  and  to  treat  our  friends,  and  no  record 
made  of  it. 

*'  A  new  strawberry  bed  is  planted  each  spring, 
the  other  one  being  plowed  up  immediately  after 
bearing  its  first  crop.  This  plan  pleases  us  better 
than  running  a  bed  longer,  as  we  think  it  less  work 
to  plant  a  new  bed  than  to  keep  an  old  one  free 
from  weeds  and  well  cultivated. 

"  Four  apple  trees  of  bearing  age.  Wealthy, 
Northwestern  Greening,  Snow,  and  Whitney  No. 
20,  furnish  us  with  all  the  summer  and  fall  apples  we 
could  use,  and  two  trees  of  Duchess  are  almost  old 
enough  to  bear.  Although  we  do  not  have  the 
figures  to  show  the  money  value  of  our  garden, 
we  are  sure  it  is  a  profitable  investment  in  several 
ways.  Besides  the  value  of  the  produce  dur- 
ing the  growing  season,  we  have  cabbage,  carrots, 
parsnips,  beets,  squash,  and  sweet  pumpkins  enough 
to  last  all  winter,  besides  a  large  supply  of  pickles, 
canned  fruit,  and  jelly,  most  of  which  was  made 
from  fruit  of  our  own  raising." 


136  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

FIELD   FORCING  VEGETABLES 

The  forcing-  of  early  vegetables  has  become  a 
business  of  considerable  magnitude,  and  a  person 
may  well  ask,  Does  it  pay,  and,  if  so,  can  I  hope  to 
succeed?  "My  own  work,"  says  E.  E.  Adams  of 
Essex  county,  Ontario,  "  has  been  growing  for  early 
market  tomatoes,  peppers,  cabbage,  beans,  musk- 
melons,  and  sweet  corn  in  the  field,  not  under 
glass.  Plants  of  all  but  corn  are,  of  course,  started, 
not  in  hotbeds,  but  in  glass  houses  heated  by  steam. 

"  In  preparing  the  soil  for  growing  these  plants 
in  the  houses  I  usually  pile  up  sods  taken  from 
either  sandy  or  clay  loam  fields,  and  pile  up  with 
alternate  layers  of  fresh  horse  manure,  letting  this 
stand  over  winter  and  cutting  up  fine  as  early  in  the 
spring  as  possible.  This  gives  a  soil  containing  a 
large  amount  of  fiber;  it  does  not  dry  out  quickly, 
and  in  decomposing  feeds  the  plants  for  a  consider- 
able time. 

"  The  soil  for  field  culture  should  be  fairly  rich 
in  humus,  clover  or  well-decayed  manure  being 
turned  under  in  the  fall.  Either  of  these  will  be 
well  incorporated  in  the  soil  by  the  following  Aiay. 

"  Tomato  and  cucumber  seeds  are  sown  in  mod- 
erately rich  soil  in  flats  the  latter  part  of  February. 
Tomato  plants  are  pricked  out  into  other  soil  in 
two  or  three  weeks,  being  given  at  this  time  a  soil 
space  of  4  X  6  inches,  and  then  again  moved  the 
latter  part  of  April  or  first  week  in  May  into  veneer 
sections  5x5x5  inches  with  no  bottoms,  or,  they 
can  be  moved  into  flats  for  convenience  in  handling. 
The  flats  I  use  are  12  x  22  inches  inside  and  5  inches 
deep.  These  flats  are  placed  upon  the  benches  and 
the  plants  grown  to  the  desired  size,  then  moved 
and   covered   with  cotton.     I   put  eight  plants   to 


THE  VEGETABLE   GARDEN  137 

each  tray.  This  cotton  cover  keeps  cold  winds  off 
the  plants,  and  also  assists  in  hardening  the  plants 
before  being  set  out  in  the  field. 

"  I  prefer  to  water  thoroughly,  being  careful  to 
see  that  all  portions  of  the  bench  soils  or  flats  are 
evenly  wetted.  Water  is  run  on  with  a  half-inch 
hose  with  no  nozzle,  not  with  heavy  pressure,  but 
gently.  When  transplanting  time  comes,  usually 
about  May  20,  it  is  found  very  convenient  to  handle 
the  flats  in  a  wagon,  sending  them  to  the  field 
quickly. 

"  Before  setting  in  the  field  after  plowing  the 
soil,  which  is  a  light  sand,  and  after  using  disk  and 
smoothing  harrows,  it  is  well  to  mark  out  straight 
rows  and  plow  furrows  about  5  inches  deep,  in 
which  the  plants  may  be  placed  after  being  care- 
fully cut  from  the  flats,  giving  them  3^  feet  in  the 
row,  and  rows  5  feet  apart.  These  furrows  may 
be  filled  in  at  once  by  a  man  or  a  boy  following  up 
with  a  hoe  and  drawing  the  soil  around  the  plants. 

VALUE  OF  FERTILIZERS 

"  As  soon  as  planting  is  all  done  about  one  ounce 
of  nitrate  of  soda  is  applied  around  each  plant,  care 
being  exercised  that  none  is  put  on  the  plants,  for 
where  it  is  so  left  it  will  burn  them.  When  it  is 
all  on,  the  tooth  cultivator  is  put  on,  and  the  ground 
cultivated  both  ways  to  mix  the  soda  in  thoroughly. 
Cultivation  is  practiced  twice  each  week,  first  one 
way,  then  the  other.  Not  much  hoeing  is  required 
if  cultivating  is  done  carefully.  I  generally  hoe 
but  once,  although  no  set  rule  will  apply.  I  have 
given  as  a  test  two  applications  of  soda  to  find  out 
if  it  would  increase  the  crop,  and  I  find  that  there 
is  little,  if  any,  advantage. 


138  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

"  I  am  of  the  opinion  that  with  South  American 
guano,  which  contains  3  per  cent  nitrogen,  lYi  to 
3  per  cent  potash,  and  about  18  per  cent  phosphoric 
acid,  built  up  with  sulphate  of  potash  6  to  8  per 
cent,  is  a  very  efficient,  safe  fertilizer  to  use.  I 
used  this  on  a  portion  of  my  crop  last  year,  with  no 
barnyard  manure,  and  had  very  nice,  smooth  fruit, 
and  a  liberal  supply.  On  another  portion  of  the 
crop  I  used  well-decayed  barn  manure,  with  an 
ounce  of  soda  to  the  plant,  and  picked  during  the 
fruiting  season  continuously  from  this  lot.  At  the 
last  picking,  about  August  20,  I  picked  an  ii-quart 
basket  of  as  fine  fruit  as  I  had  at  any  time  during 
the  season.  Further  tests  will  have  to  be  made  to 
determine  just  what  fertilizers  are  the  best  and 
most  profitable  to  use  on  tomatoes. 

"  Cabbage  is  started  under  glass  and  moved  on 
flats,  giving  it  about  3x3  inches  space,  and  watered 
once  a  week  with  manure  water,  to  which  has  been 
added  2  to  3  pounds  of  guano  and  i  of  soda.  If  the 
plants  need  further  watering  during  the  week 
I  give  them  clear  water  alone.  Cabbage  is 
a  gross  feeder,  and  plenty  of  nitrogen  should  be 
given  to  make  good,  strong  plants.  I  am  fully  con- 
vinced that  a  week  to  ten  days  can  be  gained 
in  earliness  of  the  crop  if  the  plants  are  strong  to 
begin  with  in  the  field.  The  soil  should  be  very 
rich,  well  cultivated  and  conditioned  before  plant- 
ing, and  immediately  after  planting  soda  should 
be  applied  around  each  plant  to  the  amount  of  at 
least  one-half  ounce,  and  hoed  or  cultivated  m  with 
a  fine-toothed  cultivator. 

"  In  the  course  of  a  week  I  generally  sprinkle  about 
the  same  quantity  of  soda  in  the  rows  again  around 
the  plants,  but  a  little  farther  away  from  the  stem. 
Again,  about  June  i,  another  sprinkling  of  about 


THE    VEGETABLE   GARDEN  I39 

200  pounds  to  the  acre  Is  made  in  the  centers  of  the 
rows  and  cultivated  in  at  once,  or  cultivating  may 
be  omitted  if  a  shower  is  on  when  applying.  This 
dissolves  the  soda  and  carries  it  to  the  roots  quickly. 

"  One  year  when  my  Early  Jersey  Wakefield 
cabbage  was  the  finest  I  ever  grew  no  manure  was 
used,  but  a  light  coating  w^as  given  the  previous 
season  for  a  melon  crop,  and  before  planting  the 
cabbage  a  sowing  of  guano  was  made  and  the  soil 
harrowed  several  times  to  mix  or  pulverize  thor- 
oughly. The  plants  were  put  in  rows  3  feet  apart 
and  2  feet  in  the  row.  Nitrate  of  soda  was  sown 
in  the  rows  and  cultivated,  and  in  ten  days  another 
sowing  was  made  during  a  light  shower.  These 
last-mentioned  sowings  would  amount  to  about  150 
pounds  an  acre  at  each  sowing. 

"  Cucumbers  and  muskmelons  are  started  under 
glass,  the  seed  being  sown  in  flats,  and  when  in  the 
third  leaf  are  moved  into  other  flats  or  pots  as  de- 
sired. The  soil  for  these  pots  is  composed  of  good 
garden  soil,  with  the  addition  of  about  one-third  its 
bulk  of  well-rotted  horse  droppings  well  mixed.  Care- 
ful watering  is  required  to  keep  up  a  steady  and 
imiform  growth.  At  planting  time  the  pots  are 
full  of  roots  and  ready  to  grow  without  interrup- 
tion, weather  conditions  being  favorable.  I  plant 
in  the  field  about  June  10.  The  soil  should  have 
had  a  good  coating  of  well-rotted  manure,  or  a 
clover  crop  turned  under  and  well  harrowed  down. 
Growth  can  be  forced  by  the  application  of  i  ounce 
of  soda  well  worked  into  the  soil  around,  but  not 
close  to  the  plant." 

A  MIDSUMMER  GARDEN 

"  My  summer  garden,"  writes  Dr.  M.  R.  Sharpe 
of  Maine,.  "  was  started  more  as  an  experiment  than 


140  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

from  any  real  expectation  of  its  being  a  success. 
Some  of  my  neighbors  laughed  when  they  saw  me 
after  July  4  sowing  seed  which  they  believed 
should  have  been  put  in  the  ground  by  the  middle 
of  May.  My  results  were  far  better  than  I  an- 
ticipated, and  in  the  future  I  shall  be  able  to  get 
more  from  a  certain  plot  of  ground  than  ever  be- 
fore, for,  in  many  instances,  a  succession  of  crops 
will  keep  the  ground  working  from  early  spring 
until  the  frosts  come. 

"  Among  the  vegetables  I  planted  in  the  summer 
were  corn,  squashes,  parsnips,  lettuce,  wax  beans, 
bush  limas,  parsley,  cucumbers,  radishes,  endive, 
spinach,  tomatoes,  and  beets.  The  corn  used  was 
Early  Crosby,  the  seed  being  dropped  July  4,  with 
a  liberal  amount  of  hen  manure  for  a  pusher.  The 
exceedingly  dry  summer  affected  the  growth,  as  it 
did  that  of  all  the  vegetables,  so  I  was  forced  to 
water  the  25  hills  planted.  This  began  to  bear 
about  September  15,  the  last  mess  of  some  20  ears 
being  picked  October  13,  after  frost  had  killed 
nearly  all  the  other  garden  truck. 

"  Two  kinds  of  squashes  were  planted  July  5, 
the  Summer  Crookneck  and  Hubbard.  The  former 
did  well,  escaping  most  of  the  ravages  of  the  squash 
beetle,  but  the  winter  squash  did  not  make  a  good 
size,  the  largest  being  about  9  inches  in  diameter. 
The  parsnips  remained  in  the  ground  yet  to  be 
dug  in  the  spring.  In  this  section  the  season  is 
not  long  enough  from  July  to  make  a  very 
large  growth.  Lettuce  was  sown  all  through  the 
summer,  Denver  Market,  Black-Seeded  Simpson, 
and  Tennis  Ball,  Hanson  and  Boston  varieties  being 
used.  A  cold  frame  was  placed  over  the  late  plants 
and  I  had  some  fine  heads  for  Christmas, 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN  I4I 

"  Golden  Wax  beans  were  planted  July  5,  again 
the  middle  of  the  month,  the  last  sowing  being  on 
August  3.  The  two  earlier  plantings  did  finely,and 
from  the  latter  I  picked  a  nice  lot  of  string  beans. 
Bush  limas,  planted  July  4,  proved  to  be  satisfac- 
tory, and  bore  well.  Parsley  planted  July  5  made 
fairly  good  plants  in  October,  just  right  to  pot  for 
the  house.  Early  Cluster  cucumbers,  from  seed 
of  July  4,  yielded  good  returns,  and  seemed  to  grow 
as  well  as  those  planted  earlier.  Radishes  galore 
came  from  the  garden,  crops  being  sown  to  the 
latter  part  of  August,  the  French  Breakfast  being 
the  favorite  for  quick  growth  and  sweetness.  En- 
dive, too,  was  another  crop  continuously  in  the  gar- 
den until  the  heavy  freezing  weather. 

"  Two  sowings  of  thick-leaved  spinach  were 
made  after  the  middle  of  July,  the  last  being  on 
August  3,  both  doing  well.  The  tomatoes  set  out 
July  4  were  from  seed  planted  the  second  week  in 
May,  a  good  yield  resulting,  the  small  ones  being 
used  for  fall  pickling.  Beets  were  planted  almost 
as  freely  as  radishes,  furnishing  greens  and  plenty 
of  beets  for  table  use  and  pickling.  Besides  the 
above,  two  varieties  of  turnips  were  planted,  mainly 
as  a  winter  green  food  for  the  fowls.  Next  season 
I  shall  plant  an  early  dwarf  pea  after  the  early 
corn,  and  endeavor  to  use  every  foot  of  ground  the 
entire  season.  In  late  planting  one  crop  of  weeds 
is  skipped,  but  the  ground  should  be  thoroughly 
cultivated  and  frequently  to  bring  the  crops  to  per- 
fection." 

SECURING  EARLY  PLANTS 

Charles  Black  of  Mercer  county.  New  Jersey, 
tells  how  to  secure  early  plants  for  early  gardens. 


142 


MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 


as  'follows :  "  Hotbeds  and  cold  frames  are  easily 
made  and  managed.  They  can  be  counted  on  to 
give  so  much  pleasure  and  profit  that  nearly  all 
farmers  should  have  at  least  one  of  each  to  grow 
plants  for  his  own  use.  The  common  hotbed  can 
be  used  for  growing  all  early  vegetable  plants  and 
should  be  prepared  ready  for  the  seed  six  to  eight 
weeks  before   time  to  plant  in   the  open  ground. 


J^.  ...^ 


HOTBED   YARD 


Cold  frames  can  be  used  for  growing  lettuce  for 
wintering,  for  lettuce  and  cabbage  plants  for  early 
planting,  and  for  hardy  flowering  plants,  such  as 
pansies  and  single  violets.  With  sHght  protection 
in  severe  weather,  double  violets  will  bloom  dur- 
ing mild  spells  and  blossom  profusely  very  early  in 
the  spring. 

"  For  both  hotbeds  and  cold  frames,  a  well' 
drained,  sheltered  southern  exposure,  preferably  on 
the  south  side  of  a  building,  hedge,  or  hill,  should 


THE  VEGETABLE   GARDEN  1 43 

be  selected.  If  none  of  these  are  available,  erect 
an  artificial  one,  such  as  a  board  fence  or  corn 
fodder;  in  fact,  anything  that  will  break  the  force 
of  wind.  For  hotbed  sash,  which  are  usually  3x6 
feet,  dig  a  bed  6  feet  wide  or  a  little  wider  than  the 
sash,  at  least  2  feet  deep  and  as  long  as  wanted. 
Wall  this  up  with  boards  not  less  than  i  inch  in 
thickness.  Common  slabs  from  the  sawmill  will  do 
as  well  as  better  lumber.  When  a  permanent  bed 
is  desired,  the  sides  and  ends  can  be  bricked  or 
stoned  up.  The  north  side  should  be  some  18 
inches  above  the  surface  of  the  soil  and  the  south 
side  12  inches,  so  as  to  give  the  sash  enough  slant 
to  throw  off  the  water  easily. 

"  Across  this  frame,  every  6  feet  of  the  width 
of  the  sash,  fit  in  a  2  x  4  scantling,  adjusted  so  that 
each  sash  laps  halfway  on  it.  These  scantlings 
are  to  support  the  sash.  If  stone  or  brick  is  used, 
these  crosspieces  should  be  set  in  the  wall  as  it  is 
put  up,  or  a  wooden  sill  should  be  fitted  on  the 
brickwork.  The  walls  should  be  5  feet  9  inches 
apart  inside,  if  a  6-foot  sash  is  used.  This  will 
allow  the  sash  to  rest  at  top  and  bottom.  If  wood 
is  used  for  the  walls,  strong  stakes  should  be  driven 
3  or  4  feet  apart  to  hold  the  wall  in  place. 

"  To  make  the  beds  for  planting  seed  it  is  neces- 
sary to  have  fresh,  strawy  stable  manure.  This 
must  be  well  shaken  up  and  then  made  into  a  com- 
pact heap  under  shelter  when  possible.  It  should 
be  left  in  this  condition  until  thoroughly  hot,  but 
not  long  enough  to  burn  and  become  whitish.  In 
the  bottom  of  the  bed  spread  wet  straw,  old  hay, 
or  leaves  a  few  inches  thick.  Then  put  on  the  hot 
manure  evenly  and  tread  down  firmly  to  the  depth 
of  18  or  24  inches.  After  it  is  firmed  place  on  it  a 
layer  of  good,  friable,   loamy  soil  about  6  inches 


144 


MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 


deep.  If  not  rich  and  mellow,  add  one-quarter  of 
well-rotted  stable  manure.  The  soil  should  not  be 
so  wet  it  will  pack. 

"  After  the  soil  is  on  cover  the  whole  surface  of 
the  bed  with  old  carpets,  bags,  or  any  material  that 
will  keep  out  cold  and  retain  heat.  Let  it  remain  a 
few  days,  or  until  the  soil  is  warmed  through.  Use 
a  thermometer  to  determine  the  heat.  When  60  to 
80  degrees  is  reached,  plant  the  seed,  marking  off  the 
drills  4  to  6  inches  apart  and  about  three-quarters 


Mmwimiiimmmm/mJ/M 


HOTBED 

of  an  inch  deep.  Sow  the  seed  evenly;  peppers, 
tomatoes,  and  eggplants  30  to  40  seeds  to  the  inch. 
Press  down  the  soil  firmly,  and  cover  with  fine  soil  a 
full  quarter  of  an  inch.  Put  on  the  carpet  again,  and 
let  it  remain  until  the  seed  begins  to  come  through. 
Watch  to  see  that  the  temperature  does  not  go 
much  above  80. 

VENTILATION 


"  In   warm   sunny   weather   the    sash    should   be 
raised    to    keep    the    temperature    right.      In    cold 


THE   VEGETABLE   GARDEN  I45 

weather  the  sash  should  be  covered  with  something 
to  keep  out  the  cold.  The  outside  of  the  hotbed 
should  be  banked  with  stable  manure  or  earth. 
Give  the  plants  all  the  ventilation  possible,  but  not 
enough  to  chill  them.  This  is  important,  because 
it  will  make  the  plants  stocky  and  strong.  When 
very  strong  plants  are  desired  a  cold  frame  will  be 
required. 

''  The  cold  frame  is  made  similar  to  the  hotbed, 
but  not  so  deep;  12  to  15  inches  will  be  enough. 
No  heated  manure  is  required,  but  decomposed 
manure  made  as  fine  as  possible  and  spread  about 
3  inches  deep  over  the  bottom  is  generally  pre- 
ferred. On  this  about  3  inches  of  good  soil  will 
prepare  the  bed  for  the  plants,  which,  when  they 
are  a  few  inches  tall,  or,  say,  four  weeks  before  the 
time  to  plant  in  the  open,  may  be  taken  out  and 
transplanted  as  deeply  as  possible,  4  or  5  inches 
apart  in  the  cold  frame.  They  should  be  shaded 
a  few  days  from  the  sun  and  protected  from  frost 
and  cold.  If  the  soil  is  at  all  dry  it  should  be 
wetted  about  the  time  of  transplanting,  but  with 
caution.  If  too  wet  and  cold  the  plants  will  damp 
off.  These  directions  apply  more  particularly  to 
tomatoes,  but  eggplants  and  peppers  are  forwarded 
by  very  much  the  same  treatment. 

"  When  they  become  established  give  them  all 
the  air  and  sun  possible,  taking  off  the  sash  in 
favorable  weather.  Give  only  enough  water  to 
keep  growing  well.  Plants  so  treated  should  make 
strong,  sturdy  ones,  which  should  be  in  bloom 
when  ready  to  transplant  in  the  open  ground.  When 
the  plants  are  to  be  removed  a  spade  is  thrust 
under  the  manure  in  the  bottom  of  the  bed,  and  as 
much  earth  as  possible  preserved  with  each  one. 
They  are  then  put  in  boxes  and  taken  to  the  field 


146 


MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 


as  carefully  as  possible,  preferably  in  damp  weatTier, 
or  just  before  a  rain.  They  will  soon  start  off  and 
give  fruit  much  earlier  than  common  plants  from 
the  ordinary  seed  bed.  The  cold  frame  can  be  used 
to  sow  lettuce  for  late  fall  or  to 
plant  pansies  and  violets  for  win- 
ter. As  soon  as  plants  begin  to 
appear  through  the  covering  this 
must  be  removed  in  favorable 
weather  and  replaced  in  unfavor- 
able. Great  care  is  needed  to  pre- 
vent extremes  of  heat  and  cold, 
and  the  plants  suffer  from  too  much  wet. 

"  If  any  plants  grow  too  fast  or  too  tall  they 
should  have  plenty  of  air,  and  water  should  be 
withheld ;  if  they  wilt  in  the  sunshine,  they  will 
not  be  harmed." 


ROW  MARKER 


MAKING  STRAIGHT  ROWS 


"  To  enable  one  man  to  mark  out  straight  rows 
in  the  quickest  possible  manner,"  writes  R.  J. 
Dallinga  of  Summit  county,  Ohio,  "  we  stretch  two 
strong  cotton  lines, 
which  cost  us  about  25 
cents  apiece,  where  the 
first  two  rows  are  to 
be,  say,  3  feet  apart. 

"From  a  garden  drill 
we  remove  all  the  seed- 
ing attachments  and 
run    the    drill     wheels 

over  the  first  line  from  a  to  a.  Before  running  back 
on  second  line  {h  to  h)  we  put  the  stake  of  line  one 
from  a  to  c.  When  we  arrive  at  h,  stake  of  line  one 
is  moved  from  a  to  c,  which  puts  the  line  in  position 


It 

B* 

-.-'^^'-' 

~P' 

^LiZS. .fCX^TMROW       

1/ 

MAKING  STRAIGHT  ROWS 


THE  VEGETABLE   GARDEN  147 

for  marking  the  third  row.  Before  running-  the  wheel 
on  the  third  row  from  c  to  c,  stake  of  line  two  at  h 
is  moved  to  d,  which  puts  line  two  in  position  for 
the  fourth  row,  etc. 

"  For  long  rows  we  use  one  measuring  stick  at 
each  end  of  the  rows  and  one  in  the  middle.  The 
middle  stick  is  pushed  into  the  ground  against  the 
line  to  prevent  the  wind  from  displacing  the  line. 
When  we  plant  day  after  day  we  do  not  take  up 
the  lines  at  night,  but  simply  loosen  one  end  to 
prevent  their  breaking  from  shrinkage.  The  time 
to  wind  up  the  lines  would  cost  far  more  than  they 
are  worth.  We  can  better  afford  to  buy  new  lines, 
say,  every  two  years." 

CIRCUMVENTING  WEEDS 

The  long  growing  season  of  the  south  makes  it 
almost  impossible,  at  least  impracticable,  to  keep 
the  garden  clear  of  weeds  all  summer.  No  matter 
how  clean  the  garden  may  be  kept  throughout  the 
earlier  part  of  the  season,  the  weeds  creep  in  later 
on,  and  in  the  fall  the  garden  looks  more  like  a 
weed  bed  than  anything  else. 

"  Last  year,"  writes  A.  Jeffers  of  Fairfax  county, 
Virginia,  "  we  adopted  a  new  plan.  We  planted 
watermelons,  cantaloups,  cucumbers,  beans,  sweet 
corn,  sunflowers,  and  several  other  minor  garden 
crops,  all  in  one  patch,  and  in  long  rows,  to  be 
mainly  cultivated  with  the  horse.  At  the  last  work- 
ing, which  covered  an  area  of  little  more  than  one 
acre,  we  sowed  cowpeas  between  all  the  rows,  and 
worked  them  into  the  soil  nicely. 

"  By  the  time  the  melons  were  ripe  not  a  melon 
nor  a  melon  vine  was  to  be  seen,  and  yet  the  patch 
was   covered  with   them,  hidden   away  under  the 


148  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

foliage  of  the  peas.  We  had  no  trouble  in  picking 
the  melons  and  other  vegetables,  and  by  being  a 
little  careful  in  gathering  the  garden  sass  for  the 
table,  did  not  at  all  injure  the  protecting  crop  of 
pea  vines. 

"  In  October  we  finished  mowing  and  taking  up 
the  peas  and  had  40  cocks,  nearly  a  ton  of  fine 
forage  for  the  cow.  The  garden  patch  was  not  only 
free  from  weeds,  but  the  Jand  is  actually  better. 

"  Had  we  not  sown  this  crop  the  garden  would 
have  been  the  worst  looking  patch  of  land  on  the 
farm.  On  a  small  part  of  this  garden  we  sowed, 
as  an  experiment,  crimson  clover  with  the  peas, 
but  the  growth  of  peas  was  so  luxuriant  that  the 
clover  smothered  out." 

STORAGE   FOR  VEGETABLES 

In  the  storage  of  vegetables  for  farm  use  the 
main  requirements  are :  Correct  and  uniform  tem- 
perature, darkness,  and  the  proper  amount  of 
moisture.  These  essentials  can  best  be  obtained 
and  maintained  in  what  is  commonly  known  as  the 
root  cellar;  that  is,  a  cellar  covered  with  earth. 
Being  entirely  covered,  the  outside  temperature 
does  not  readily  affect  that  inside,  thus  avoiding 
the  sudden  changes  that  are  so  injurious. 

The  earth  covering  also  supplies  about  the  cor- 
rect amount  of  moisture  for  most  vegetables  and 
apples.  It  is  just  moist  enough  to  prevent  with- 
ering, but  not  damp  enough  to  cause  rot.  Never 
put  a  house,  barn,  or  building  of  any  kind  over  a 
root  cellar  if  you  want  the  best  results.  More 
stuff,  many  times  as  much,  is  ruined  by  being  kept 
too  warm,  than  is  spoiled  by  being  kept  too  cold. 
Keep   the    temperature    of   the    cellar   as    near   40 

PROPERTY  OF 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN  149 

degrees  as  possible.  Never  have  it  warmer  than 
this;  and  the  nearer  the  freezing  point  it  can  be 
crowded  without  actually  freezing,  the  better. 

Be  sure  all  stuff  is  thoroughly  cooled  in  the  fall 
before  closing  the  doors  for  winter.  Then  keep  it 
dark.  Always  use  a  lantern  and  under  no  circum- 
stances allow  the  daylight  to  enter.  Have  a  ther- 
mometer always  in  the  cellar,  and  should  the  tem- 
perature threaten  to  go  too  low,  place  a  lantern 
on  the  floor  of  the  cellar  for  a  while.  A  lighted 
lantern  will  raise  the  temperature  of  a  2,000-bushel 
cellar  about  two  degrees  in  24  hours. 

Take  as  much  pains  to  keep  the  cold  in,  in  spring, 
as  to  keep  it  out  in  winter.  To  this  end,  as  soon 
as  spring  is  near,  cover  the  earth  on  top  of  the 
cellar  with  manure  or  straw,  put  on  thickly  so  as 
to  keep  the  frost  in  the  ground  as  late  as  possible. 
Keep  doors  shut  tight  to  keep  cold  in.  Thus  you 
have  a  little  storage  plant  in  the  spring  and  early 
summer;  and  when  others  must  sell  stuff  at  what 
they  can  get,  or  see  it  rot  or  wither,  you  can  hold 
your  goods  from  four  to  eight  weeks  longer,  and 
then  sell  at  your  own  price. 

"  By  following  these  directions,"  writes  F.  B. 
McLeran  of  Minnesota,  "  I  have  kept  year  after 
year  all  kinds  of  vegetables  until  late  into  the 
spring  and  summer.  I  have  kept  potatoes  in  first- 
class  shape  until  August,  cabbage  until  June  25, 
carrots  until  June  15,  beets  until  August,  rutabagas 
until  August,  and  parsnips  until  May. 

"A  word  as  to  construction.  I  believe  the  com- 
ing age  is  going  to  be  the  cement  age.  In  any 
event,  I  prefer  the  cement  root  cellar.  Floor,  sides, 
and  roof  all  should  be  of  cement.  Next  to  this  use 
stone  or  brick,  and,  if  you  have  nothing  else,  use 
wood.     Place  tile  under  walls  and  floor.     Provide 


150  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

an  outlet.  Make  doors  at  least  6  feet  6  inches  high, 
so  you  will  not  have  to  duck  your  head  every  time 
you  pass  in  or  out. 

"  Provide  chutes  similar  to  coal  chutes  so  as  to 
chute  the  vegetables  in.  Do  not  carry  them  in  by 
hand.  Provide  ventilation.  Have  double  doors, 
and  have  them  fit  tight.  I  use  the  same  latch  as  I 
find  on  my  large  ice-box  door.  If  you  will  faith- 
fully follow  these  simple  directions  you  will  have  a 
successful  home  for  storage  for  fruits  and  vege- 
tables." 

ARTICHOKE,  JERUSALEM 

The  tubers  of  this  sunflower-like  plant  are  far 
less  highly  esteemed  than  they  should  be  in  home 
gardens.  The  plants  will  thrive  in  any  good  soil 
without  any  cultivation.  They  need  only  be  held 
within  bounds.  Each  year  they  will  reproduce 
from  the  small  tubers  left  in  the  ground  at  digging, 
A  plot  10  feet  square  will  be  sufficient  for  a  win- 
ter's supply  for  each  member  of  the  family,  or  at 
least  one  dish  weekly  between  October  and  April. 
It  is  best  that  the  tubers  be  allowed  to  remain  in 
the  ground  and  taken  up  with  a  pickax  as  needed. 
In  order  to  make  this  work  light,  it  is  desirable 
that  the  soil  be  covered  with  straw  so  as  to  pre- 
vent deep  freezing.  The  tubers  are  usually  scal- 
loped or  boiled  and  served  with  cream  sauce.  They 
are  particularly  delicate  and  well  worth  the  atten- 
tion of  every  housewife.  They  must  not  be  al- 
lowed to  shrivel,  as  they  lose  their  flavor  in  this 
treatment. 

A  writer  in  the  American  Agriculturist  says  that 
"  Tubers  can  be  secured  through  any  of  the  large 
seed  houses  in  early  spring.     They  may  be  planted 


THE   VEGETABLE  GARDEN  I5I 

in  well-drained,  light  soils  as  soon  as  the  ground 
can  be  worked.  Even  on  poor,  gravelly  soils,  they 
yield  well.  The  drills  should  be  3  feet  apart  and 
the  tubers  dropped  18  to  24  inches  asunder.  Cul- 
tivation is  the  same  as  for  potatoes,  though  the 
plants  will  succeed  with  less  if  the  ground  is  free 
from  weeds.  When  they  shade  the  soil,  they  may 
be  laid  by.  When  grown  for  market  they  are  har- 
vested like  potatoes,  or  left  in  the  ground  until 
needed.  Frost  does  not  injure,  but  improves  them, 
they  can  be  dug  with  a  pickax  in  midwinter.  Un- 
less left  in  the  ground  or  stored  in  pits  or  in  sand 
in  a  root  cellar,  they  shrivel  and  lose  their  quality. 
Properly  grown  they  will  yield  200  bushels  of 
tubers  or  more  to  the  acre.  The  White  and  the 
Red  Brazilian  generally  yield  the  largest  crops. 
The  crop  requires  about  five  months  to  mature." 

ASPARAGUS 

According  to  W.  G.  Dawson  of  Dorchester 
county,  Maryland,  "  Asparagus,  when  properly 
grown  and  carefully  packed,  is  a  good  paying  crop, 
and  probably  the  most  certain  of  all  in  the  perish- 
able list.  This  is  because  the  supply  rarely  ex- 
ceeds the  demand,  asparagus  being  used  so  exten- 
sively in  its  fresh  state  and  for  canning.  As  to 
varieties,  there  is  much  difference  of  opinion,  but 
one  cannot  go  far  astray  in  choosing  Palmetto, 
Giant  Argenteuil,  or  Barr's  Mammoth.  All  of 
these  are  good,  but  more  depends  upon  the  grower 
than  upon  the  variety. 

"  Where  one  desires  to  produce  the  plants  for 
setting,  it  is  best  to  sow  the  seed  in  drills  early  in 
the  spring,  in  order  that  it  may  germinate  and  get 
a   start   before   the   grass   and   weeds   come  along. 


152  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

This  is  very  essential,  as  the  plants  are  tender  when 
young  and  many  will  be  destroyed  in  the  necessary 
hand  cleaning,  even  under  the  most  favorable  con- 
ditions. Frequent  cultivation  and  heavy  fertiliza- 
tion will  force  the  growth,  which  is  desirable,  as 
plants  one  year  old  are  much  to  be  preferred,  be- 
cause they  better  withstand  the  shock  of  trans- 
planting than  when  older. 

"  The  soil  is  an  important  item  in  locating  the 
crop.  Land  that  crusts  after  a  rain  is  not  desir- 
able, for  it  will  cause  the  loss  of  many  stalks  by 
reason  of  crookedness.  Therefore,  light  soil  is 
usually  chosen,  and  wisely.  Asparagus  is  a  heavy 
feeder  and  a  generous  supply  of  plant  food  will 
usually  bring  good  results.  Farm  manure  does 
much  to  keep  the  soil  mellow  as  well  as  help  feed 
the  plant,  but  it  is  not  often  possible  to  do  more 
than  manure  in  the  row.  After  the  harvesting  is 
done,  and  as  soon  as  the  land  is  well  worked,  some 
growers  sow  cowpeas  to  shade  the  ground,  smother 
out  weeds  and  grass,  and  improve  the  land  as 
well." 

T.  B.  Lutes  of  New  Jersey  says :  "  The  net  pro- 
ceeds from  one  acre  of  asparagus  in  a  favorable 
season  should  be  $ioo.  Some  growers,  however, 
who  have  a  retail  trade  can  realize  probably  $200 
an  acre.  It  all  depends  on  the  variety,  the  demand, 
and  the  man.  We  cut  asparagus  every  day.  The 
fact  is,  it  grows  faster  than  we  can  cut  it.  At  day- 
light every  morning  we  aim  to  be  out  in  the  field 
cutting  asparagus.  The  idea  is  to  get  all  cut  over 
by  noon,  as  it  takes  considerable  time  after  it  is 
cut  to  get  in  shape  for  market.  We  cut  white 
grass,  that  is,  grass  grown  in  earth  ridged  up  for 
this  purpose.  In  cutting  three  rows  stalks  are 
laid  on  one  row,  then  the  picker-up  gathers  this 


THE  VEGETABLE   GARDEN  153 

grass  in  crates  that  have  g-alvanized  wire  bottoms, 
care  being  taken  to  keep  the  heads  of  the  shoots 
all  in  one  direction. 

"  These  crates  are  taken  to  the  packing  house, 
where  they  are  first  doused  in  a  tank  of  water 
several  times  to  remove  all  dirt,  then  taken  to  the 
packing  tables,  where  they  are  placed  in  bunches 
8  inches  long  and  about  4  inches  in  diameter.  As 
soon  as  bunched,  each  bunch  is  placed  in  water  to 
keep  it  fresh  and  plump.  Then  it  is  taken  out  of 
the  water  tubs  and  placed  in  strawberry  crates, 
placing  six  in  each  layer,  or  24  bunches  to  each 
crate.  These  crates  are  then  shipped  by  freight  to 
New  York  city  or  Newark,  New  Jersey,  where  they 
are  sold  by  reliable  commission  dealers  and  returns 
made  daily.  The  utmost  care  is  necessary  in 
handling  asparagus,  especially  in  very  hot  weather, 
and  it  sometimes  happens  that  it  will  so  heat  in 
shipping  that  it  will  hardly  sell  at  any  price.  To 
remedy  this  I  always  stand  the  bunches  up  in 
crates  during  extreme  hot  weather." 

BEANS 

L.  C.  Seal  of  Indiana  discusses  bean  growing  as 
follows :  "  Did  your  young  bean  vines  ever  prom- 
ise well,  then  suddenly  yellow  up  and,  perhaps, 
die,  and  you  could  not  account  for  it?  Maybe  you 
hoed  them  one  time  when  their  foliage  was  wet. 
You  should  not  have  done  so.  Never  touch  snap 
beans  until  the  foliage  is  absolutely  dry.  It  will 
cause  the  leaves  to  drop  prematurely. 

"  Beans  are  very  sensitive  to  cold  and  wet 
weather.  It  is  time,  labor,  and  garden  space  wasted 
to  plant  beans  before  the  spring  has  come  to  stay. 
A  few  pods  gathered  from  weak,  sickly  plants  are 


154  MAKING    HORTICULTURE   PAY 

not  to  be  preferred  to  a  few  days'  delay  in  the  ar- 
rival in  profusion  of  this  coveted  relish. 

"  Though  beans  themselves  are  gross  feeders, 
under  favorable  culture  and  weather  conditions, 
they  are  nevertheless  delicate.  Because  ground  is 
too  poor  to  grow  anything  else,  it  is  not  infre- 
quently planted  to  beans.  This  is  unfair  to  the 
beans;  they,  too,  like  humus.  Give  them  suitable 
soil,  or  make  the  soil  suitable  through  fertilization 
— a  deep,  mellow  seed  bed  and  plenty  of  room. 
More  vine,  more  crop,  if  properly  spaced. 

"  While  blooming  and  bearing,  bean  rootlets, 
which  are  many  and  filmy,  permeate  the  soil  into 
middles.  Better  not  cultivate  too  near  the  row, 
nor  deeply  at  this  stage  of  growth.  At  this  point, 
if  possible,  stop  cultivation  entirely.  Their  own 
shade  mulch  may  do  more  than  you  can  do  unless 
you  are  trying  to  resuscitate  an  old  row,  which  has 
furnished  you  beans  for  a  week  or  ten  days. 
Usually  it  is  more  economical  to  remove  these 
vines  and  plant  a  second  crop,  or  put  it  in  sugar 
corn. 

"  Vines  of  bush  snaps  are  short  lived.  Pole  va- 
rieties continue  longer  in  bearing  provided  the  pods 
are  clipped  off  as  fast  as  they  assume  edible  dimen- 
sions; they  will  die  in  the  process  of  maturing  seed. 
No  trellis  can  offer  as  natural  conditions  for  vining 
purposes  as  the  stout,  old-fashioned  barky  pole  well 
anchored  in  the  hill.  A  Kentucky  Wonder  would 
crawl  2  feet  to  climb  one.  Butter  beans  are  the 
seedmen's  limas.  Just  now  I  am  much  interested 
in  Giant  Stringless.  They  require  the  whole  sea- 
son in  which  to  mature,  and  furnish  several  pick- 
ings. Bunch  limas  are  earlier  than  the  pole,  but 
not  quite  so  excellent.  The  Dwarf  Horticultural 
is   a    shell-out   bean.     It   ranks    with    the   best,   is 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN  155 

medium  early  and  prolific.     Seedmen  raise  the  best 
seeds.     That  is  their  occupation." 

LIMAS 

According"  to  Cora  J.  Sheppard  of  Cumberland 
county,  New  Jersey,  **  The  ground  for  lima  beans 
may  be  prepared  at  the  same  time  as  for  the  gen- 
eral garden.  The  hills  for  beans  should  be  placed 
4  feet  apart  each  way.  Well-rotted  manure  should 
be  placed  in  the  hills ;  half  a  shovelful  to  a  hill,  or 
a  shovelful  to  every  three  hills,  may  be  enough. 

"  If  this  is  not  at  hand,  commercial  fertilizer  may 
take  the  place  of  it.  The  poles  should  be  stuck 
before  planting  the  beans.  A  rather  heavy  stick 
with  an  iron  point  on  one  end  is  used  to  make  the 
holes  for  the  poles.  No  garden  is  complete  with- 
out lima  beans,  and  every  gardener  should  own  his 
own  bean  sticker,  and  not  depend  upon  neighbors 
or  friends. 

"  In  this  section  the  beans  should  not  be  planted 
before  May  lo,  and  the  weather  must  be  just  about 
right.  If  too  damp,  the  beans  decay  in  the  ground. 
Place  four  beans  in  a  hill,  eyes  down,  and  if  they 
come  up  well  two  should  be  pulled  out,  if  the 
ground  is  heavy,  or  there  will  be  too  much  of  a 
mass  of  vines.  If  the  soil  is  light,  the  four  beans 
can  be  left  to  grow. 

"  To  get  extra  early  beans  we  plant  about  30 
hills  in  the  cold  frame  early  in  the  season.  First, 
we  melt  tops  and  bottoms  off  old  tin  cans,  which 
are  then  filled  with  dirt,  and  closely  packed  in  the 
cold  frame.  The  seedlings  get  a  good  start  and 
are  put  in  the  garden  about  the  time  other  people 
are  planting  their  beans.  When  transplanting  it 
is  well  to  water  thoroughly  before  disturbing,  in 


156  MAKING   HORTICULTURE  PAY 

order  to  make  the  dirt  stick  to  the  roots.  The 
roots  should  not  be  disturbed  more  than  necessary, 
but  the  whole  mass  of  dirt  in  the  tin  can  removed 
to  the  garden.  In  this  way  we  get  the  delicious 
lima  bean  for  our  table  ten  days  or  two  weeks 
earlier  than  by  ordinary  planting." 

John  W.  Broadway  of  Cumberland  county,  New 
Jersey,  manages  somewhat  differently.  *'  First,  the 
land  should  be  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation. 
Use  fall  plowed  land  and  apply  15  to  25  tons  of 
good  manure  an  acre  after  ground  is  plowed.  At 
planting  time  apply  400  pounds  high-grade  fertilizer 
an  acre  in  hills  well  spread.  Hills  4J/2  feet  each 
way;  thin  to  two  plants,  give  frequent  cultivation, 
once  each  way  every  week  until  vines  reach  top  of 
poles,  then  use  binding  twine  from  pole  i.  Pole- 
train  vines  on  string;  keep  up  cultivating  during 
season.  The  cost  of  growing  is  not  limited,  as  re- 
sults are  governed  by  special  care.  I  claim  cost  an 
acre  $125  to  $200  and  first  year  a  trifle  more,  as 
poles  will  last  three  years.  My  profit  last  year 
was  $275  an  acre  net,  as  prices  wxre  good  through- 
out the  season." 

"  In  the  garden  no  one  crop  has  regularly  paid 
me  better  than  the  lima  bean,"  writes  D.  S.  Kelsey 
of  Hartford  county,  Connecticut.  "  For  eight  years 
I  supplied  the  large  hotels  at  Saratoga  Springs, 
New  York.  All  that  time  I  was,  so  far  as  I  know, 
the  only  grower  of  lima  beans  in  the  Adirondack 
region.  Not  that  I  advise  people  to  go  north  to 
grow  them,  but  there  is  a  popular  notion  that  lima 
beans  belong  to  the  hot,  sandy  soils  of  the  South. 
They  will  mature  anywhere  that  corn  will  mature. 

"The  bean  needs  plenty  of  organic  nitrogen ; 
that  is,  stable  manure,  or  chemicals,  dried  fish, 
cottonseed  meal,  blood  or  tankage;    never  nitrates 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN  1 57 

or  guano.  Rows  should  always  go  north  and  south, 
that  the  sun  may  have  full  access  everywhere.  The 
rows  should  be  35^  feet  apart  for  the  very  smallest 
bush  varieties,  and  5  feet  for  the  poles,  but  the  hills 
may  be  close  together,  making  a  kind  of  hedge 
row.  The  south  and  southeast  exposure  and  sun 
slope  are  best,  but  a  skillful  gardener  will  produce 
an  abundant  crop  on  the  northeast  side  of  a  cold 
hill. 

"  As  to  prices,  one  can  almost  make  his  own.  I 
have  received  as  high  as  $2.25  a  bushel  wholesale, 
and  very  seldom  as  low  as  $1.  I  like  sod  land, 
plowed  after  haying  the  summer  before,  with  a 
cover  crop  plowed  in  early  the  following  spring 
plus  many  harrowings.  I  use  chemical  fertilizers 
only  broadcast,  excepting  a  little  superphosphate 
in  the  hill  or  drill.     Always  drill  the  bush  varieties. 

"  In  the  case  of  selecting  seed  from  the  dwarf 
varieties  one  must  carefully  avoid  any  plants  that 
show  a»  tendency  to  revert  back  to  "  running." 
This  is  particularly  true  with  the  Burpee.  Its 
natural  inclination  to  twine  has  not  been  entirely 
bred  out.  As  a  commercial  proposition  I  see  no 
reason  why  pole  limas  should  be  planted  any 
more." 

BEETS 

Beets  are  very  readily  grown  on  almost  any  soil, 
not  too  sandy  nor  too  heavy,  preferably  a  very 
rich,  well-worked  and  deep  loam.  For  earliest  use 
the  round  forms  should  be  chosen.  Of  these  there 
are  many  that  are  of  quick  growth.  They  are 
planted  in  rows  16  inches  apart,  as  soon  as  the  soil 
can  be  worked  in  spring.  Not  more  than  ten  seeds 
should  be  sown  to  the  foot  nor  should  these  be 
covered  more  than  an  inch  deep.     When   5  or  6 


158  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

inches  high  the  seedlings  should  be  thinned  so  the 
plants  are  not  closer  than  4  inches  apart;  for  the 
larger  kinds  and  slower  growing  sorts  6  inches  is 
better.  The  thinnings  need  not  be  destroyed,  because 
they  make  excellent  greens.  Planted  and  cared  for  in 
this  way  the  crop  of  early  varieties  should  be  ready 
in  about  60  days.  Successional  sowings  may  be 
made  at  intervals  of  ten  days  or  two  weeks,  but 
usually  for  home  use  different  varieties  are  used, 
so  as  to  do  all  the  planting  at  once.  The  beets  will 
remain  in  good  condition  for  weeks  and  those  that 
are  not  used  up  during  the  summer  may  be  stored 
for  winter. 

Beets  may  be  easily  forced  by  sowing  the 'quick- 
maturing  kinds  in  hotbeds  during  February  or 
March.  There  they  may  be  left  to  mature  or  can 
be  transplanted  while  still  small.  They  do  best 
without  transplanting.  During  late  fall  the  beets 
should  be  pulled  and  their  tops  twisted  off.  They 
are  not  injured  by  light  frosts  and  frequently  are 
greatly  improved  by  being  allowed  to  remain  in 
the  ground  until  rather  late.  They  may  be  easily 
kept  in  a  cold  cellar.  Generally,  however,  it  is  best 
to  store  them  in  pits  outside,  as  they  are  apt  to 
become  dry  and  corky  if  the  air  is  not  sufficiently 
moist  in  the  cellar.  Among  the  well-known  and 
highly  appreciated  varieties  are  the  Eclipse,  Egyp- 
tian, Bastian's  Early  Turnip,  all  of  which  are  early 
varieties,  and  Dewing's  Improved  Blood  Turnip, 
which  is  a  good  late  variety.  There  are  also  long- 
rooted  varieties,  which,  however,  are  not  as  popular 
as  before  the  turnip-shaped  kinds  were  perfected. 

BRUSSELS  SPROUTS 

Anyone  who  can  grow  cabbage  can  grow  Brus- 
sels   sprouts.     Everyone    who    likes    cabbage    will 


THE   VEGETABLE   GARDEN  1 59 

like  Brussels  sprouts  better.  But  the  same  care- 
lessness that  produces  woody,  rank-flavored  cab- 
bage will  have  a  like  effect  on  Brussels  sprouts. 
People  who  give  the  plant  a  fair  trial  in  the  garden 
and  the  kitchen  soon  swell  the  ranks  of  lovers  of 
this  popular  vegetable. 

Any  garden  soil  that  will  grow  good  cabbage  can 
be  relied  upon  to  produce  good  sprouts.  An  ample 
supply  of  humus  and  nitrogenous  food  in  the  soil 
is  desirable  as  in  the  case  of  any  other  leaf  crops. 
The  seed  may  be  sown  at  the  same  time  and  in  the 
same  way  as  cabbage  seed.  For  very  early  crops 
it  may  be  sown  in  a  cold  frame  in  late  fall,  pro- 
tected during  winter  with  mats  or  shutters,  and 
the  plants  set  out  as  early  in  the  spring  as  the 
ground  can  be  worked.  For  second  early  it  may  be 
sown  in  the  spring  and  transplanted  in  April.  But 
since  the  plant  makes  most  delicately  flavored 
heads  during  cool  weather,  the  most  popular  time  of 
sowing  is  June. 

When  thus  grown  the  young  plants  are  set  out 
in  the  garden  3  by  2  feet  apart  at  six  weeks  old  and 
given  clean  cultivation  for  six  weeks.  From  Sep- 
tember until  hard  freezing  they  need  little  or  no 
attention  unless  the  season  be  very  dry. 

In  such  cases  liberal  watering  will  improve  the 
quality  and  quantity  of  the  sprouts.  The  bulk  of 
the  picking  is  done  between  October  and  Decem- 
ber, though  in  mild  winters,  especially  on  the  At- 
lantic seaboard  and  in  the  southern  states,  some 
may  be  gathered  until  March  and  even  April.  For 
the  New  York  market  the  east  end  and  north 
shore  of  Long  Island  furnish  large  quantities  as  a 
second  crop  following  potatoes.  Generally  the 
plants  are  cut  about  December  i  and  stored  for 
winter  picking.     The  sprouts  are  packed  in  berry 


l6o  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

boxes.  A  packer  can  put  up  125  to  225  boxes  a 
day,  and  a  picker  can  gather  200  to  275  quarts  a 
day.  Yields  range  from  3,000  to  4,000  quarts,  or 
even  more,  an  acre. 

A  leading  grower,  John  Young  of  Long  Island, 
chooses  plants  of  dwarf  habit,  in  which  the  sprouts 
grow  so  closely  together  as  to  conceal  the  stem. 
For  commercial  purposes,  Mr.  Young  prefers  land 
that  has  been  in  sod  two  or  three  years.  This  he 
fertilizes  with  1,500  pounds  high-grade  fertilizers 
broadcasted  before  the  plants  are  set.  Frequently 
he  uses  nitrate  of  soda  at  intervals  during  the 
season. 

CABBAGE 

"  We  usually  plant  six  or  eight  acres  of  cabbage 
of  several  varieties  each  year,"  says  H.  A.  Souther- 
land  of  Ontario  county,  New  York.  "  During  the 
last  five  years  we  have  found  Burpee's  All  Head 
earlier  and  Burpee's  Danish  better  than  any  we  have 
ever  tried.  We  have  also  grown  All  Seasons,  but 
it  gives  poorer  results  than  the  ones  mentioned. 
Cabbage  does  well  on  our  clay  loam  soil,  which  is 
low-lying  but  well  underdrained.  Following  the 
cabbage,  come  oats,  wheat,  and  clover.  The  sod 
of  the  clover  is  turned  under  for  corn,  which  in 
turn  is  followed  by  cabbage.  The  ground  is  plowed 
as  early  in  the  spring  as  possible,  and  again  thor- 
oughly cultivated  up  to  the  time  of  setting  the 
plants.  The  rows  are  marked  out  38  inches  to 
33^  feet  apart  and  the  plants  set  24  inches  asunder. 

"  For  the  last  two  seasons  we  have  used  a  trans- 
planter with  good  satisfaction;  it  cost  $50.  After 
the  plants  are  set  we  use  a  two-horse  cultivator 
and  go  through  every  few  days  until  the  rootlets 


THE  VEGETABLE   GARDEN  l6l 

get  too  thick  in  the  middle  of  the  row.  The  fer- 
tilizer we  use  costs  $30  a  ton.  It  contains  4  per 
cent  nitrogen,  8  per  cent  phosphoric  acid,  and  7 
per  cent  potash.  It  is  applied  just  before  the  plants 
are  set,  at  the  rate  of  400  to  500  pounds  to  the  acre, 
with  a  grain  drill  fertilizer  attachment.  We  have 
tried  using  double  quantity  fertilizer  each  side  of 
the  dead  furrow,  but  find  that  we  cannot  get  as 
good  results  in  the  dead  furrow  as  elsewhere. 

"  Our  crop  last  year  ran  about  15  tons  to  the  acre. 
This  is  not  a  very  good  yield ;  the  season  was  very 
dry  during  the  summer.  The  prices  usually  ruled 
from  $4  to  $8  a  ton  last  year.  We  cut  the  cabbage 
with  a  long-handled  spud,  putting  four  rows  in 
one  windrow,  then  we  drive  between  two  windrows, 
with  a  man  on  each  side  of  the  wagon.  When 
5,000  to  6,000  pounds  is  loaded,  the  wagon  is  hauled 
to  the  railway  and  the  heads  loaded  on  flat  cars  or 
in  refrigerator  cars.  Usually  the  harvest  is  finished 
by  November  i.  We  prefer  to  sell  cabbage  to  the 
dealer  who  will  take  the  risk  of  storing.  Cracked 
and  loose  heads  are  fed  to  sheep  in  pasture  in 
amounts  just  sufficient  for  them  to  eat  up  clean. 
Our  seed  is  bought  in  early  winter  at  about  $2.50 
a  pound.  We  aim  to  buy  early,  as  we  think  we  are 
likely  to  get  better  seed.  On  about  three-quarters 
of  an  acre  one  year  we  raised  $223  worth  of  cab- 
bage." 

INTENSIVE  CABBAGE  GROWING 

"  A  crop  of  cabbage,"  says  C.  G.  Brown  of  Kent 
county,  Delaware,  "  can  be  grown  and  harvested 
in  90  to  100  days,  admitting,  therefore,  of  two  crops 
in  one  year.  This  means  intensive  culture,  heavy 
feeding,  and,  for  the  outlay,  very  profitable  re- 
turns.    For  the  first  early,  we  grow  Jersey  Wake- 


l62  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

field.  Because  of  its  hardiness,  rapid  growth  and 
hard-heading  habit,  it  is,  in  our  experience,  un- 
equaled.  For  second  early,  we  grow  the  large  or 
Charleston  Wakefield,  Henderson's  Early  Summer 
and  Early  Dwarf  Flat  Dutch.  The  seed  is  sown 
for  the  first  early  in  September  in  well-enriched 
beds  and  when  the  plants  are  2  to  3  inches  tall  they 
are  pricked  out  into  cold  frames,  protected  with 
oiled  muslin  or  glass  or  in  the  open  ground  in  a 
place  protected  from  the  north  and  west  winds. 

"  The  objection  to  these  wintered-over  plants  is 
that,  on  account  of  age,  many  will  go  to  seed.  We 
prefer  and  have  better  success  with  spring  plants. 
These  are  started  in  a  hotbed  under  glass  in  Feb- 
ruary, and  when  2  to  3  inches  tall  are  pricked  out 
into  cold  frames,  and  if  not  too  thick  in  the  seed-bed 
rows,  will  be  ready  to  transplant  in  the  field  by 
March  15  to  April  i,  or  later.  These  spring-grown 
plants  will  head  up  earlier  and  make  more  heads  to 
the  acre  than  wintered-over  plants.  The  best  soil 
is  a  good  sandy  loam  that  is  well  supplied  with 
humus,  from  the  growth  of  former  crops  of  clover 
or  other  legumes — a  soil  that  is  friable. 

"  This  should  be  thoroughly  pulverized  and 
leveled  to  prepare  it  for  planting.  We  use  a  potato 
planter,  making  the  rows  3  feet  apart,  distribute 
the  phosphate  in  the  rows,  and  make  the  ridge  for 
the  plants  at  one  operation.  With  the  machine,  we 
can  do  the  work  very  cheaply  and  rapidly.  The 
ridges  are  leveled  down  with  a  plank  drag,  which 
covers  two  rows  at  once  3  inches  deep.  The  fer- 
tilizer is  applied  at  the  rate  of  1,000  pounds  to  the 
acre,  and  is  home-mixed,  medium  high  grade, 
analyzing  4  per  cent  nitrogen,  7  per  cent  phos- 
phoric acid,  and  6  per  cent  potash.  We  want  strong 
plants   with   good   root   system.     They   are   set   18 


THE   VEGETABLE   GARDEN  163 

inches  apart  in  the  3-foot  rows,  taking  about  10,000 
to  the  acre. 

"  Cultivation  is  done  early  and  thoroughly  and 
continued  until  the  cabbage  begins  to  head.  When 
the  plants  are  ready  to  head  and  the  soil  freshly 
cultivated,  v^e  apply  nitrate  of  soda,  at  the  rate 
of  200  pounds  to  the  acre  on  the  row  close  to  but 
not  on  the  plants.  One  application  of  soda,  cost- 
ing $5,  has  increased  the  yield  $40.  When  the 
soda  is  used  the  heading  will  be  more  general  and 
rapid,  and  the  heads  more  crisp  and  tender.  Under 
conditions  reasonably  favorable,  the  yield  will  be 
from  7,000  to  9,000  marketable  heads  to  an  acre, 
making  an  average  of  8,000. 

"  As  fast  as  the  cabbage  is  harvested,  the  stalks 
are  cut  and  soon  decay,  and  are  out  of  the  way  of 
the  second  crop.  The  first,  or  early  crop,  is  usually 
all  marketed  by  the  first  of  July.  The  land  is  then 
prepared  for  the  second  or  late  crop,  as  thoroughly 
and  in  the  same  way  as  for  the  first  crop,  again 
applying  1,000  pounds  of  fertilizer  in  the  row  and 
200  pounds  nitrate  of  soda  as  a  top  dressing.  The 
plants  for  the  late  crop  are  grown  very  cheaply  in 
the  open  ground,  by  sowing  the  seed  in  a  well- 
prepared  bed  the  last  of  May.  The  plants  will  be 
large  enough  to  transplant  to  the  field  from  July 
I  to  15,  putting  them  the  same  distance  apart  as 
for  the  early  crop,  requiring  about  10,000  to  the 
acre." 

CABBAGE  STORING 

"  Cabbages  should  be  left  in  the  field  as  long  as 
possible,  but  it  is  better  to  harvest  a  week  too  early 
than  a  week  too  late,"  says  Prof.  Samuel  Fraser 
of   Livingston    county,    New   York.     "  They    must 


164  MAKING   HORTICULTURE  PAY 

not  be  stored  when  wet  nor  handled  when  frozen. 
Cabbages  bruised  when  frozen  are  invariably- 
spoiled  and  will  not  store.  Heads  which  have  not 
quite  reached  maturity  are  the  best  for  storage. 

"  A  deep,  double  furrow  should  be  plowed  on  a 
well-drained  piece  of  land,  and  the  cabbages  be 
placed  in  it  roots  down.  This  will  hold  three  rows 
of  cabbages,  two  rows  being  laid  on  the  sides,  and 
the  third  between  them.  As  fast  as  they  are  placed 
the  roots  are  covered  with  soil  by  plowing  a  furrow 
on  each  side.  When  the  soil  is  frozen  it  is  covered 
with  litter  or  manure  to  prevent  deep  freezing. 

*'One  of  the  simplest  ways  is  to  store  in  an  or- 
chard or  some  sheltered  place,  often  alongside  a 
fence  which  has  been  made  tight  by  a  liberal  use 
of  straw.  The  cabbages  are  stored  with  their  stems 
on,  and  are  placed  head  down  and  as  close  together 
as  possible.  Two  or  three  tiers  are  often  made, 
the  heads  of  the  second  tier  being  placed  between 
the  stems  of  the  lower,  and  so  on,  the  piles  being 
made  of  any  width  and  length  desired.  The  whole 
is  covered  with  leaves,  salt  hay,  or  straw,  and  a 
little  soil,  rails,  brush,  or  litter. 

"  Small  quantities  may  be  stored  by  plowing  out 
two  or  three  furrows  10  or  12  inches  deep,  on  a 
well-drained  site,  and  placing  the  heads  with  their 
stems  up,  as  close  together  as  possible;  some  pre- 
fer to  lay  them  but  t  or  2  feet  thick,  while  others 
will  pile  them  up  2  to  23^  feet  high,  bringing  them 
to  a  point.  The  pile  is  then  covered  with  straw, 
salt  grass  hay,  or  a  thin  layer  of  straw  and  then 
several  inches  of  soil.  They  are  stored  before  freez- 
ing, and  when  the  soil  covering  them  is  frozen  it 
may  be  covered  with  strawy  manure  or  any  other 
litter  to  keep  the  soil  frozen  until  the  cabbages  are 
needed  for  sale. 


THE  VEGETABLE   GARDEN  1 65 

"  Great  quantities  are  stored  in  cabbage  houses. 
The  houses  are  often  built  alongside  the  railroad  to 
facilitate  shipment,  but  a  small  one  can  be  built  on 
the  same  principle  if  desired.  The  walls  are  fre- 
quently about  8  feet  high  at  the  eaves,  built  with 
three  walls  and  two  air  spaces,  papered  on  the  out- 
side, with  a  close  boarded  and  tar  papered  roof. 
The  building  may  be  50  feet  wide  and  of  any  de- 
sired length,  with  a  driveway  through  the  center 
and  well  provided  with  ventilating  arrangements. 
The  building  is  divided  into  compartments  or  bins, 
which  run  across  the  house,  from  the  driveway  to 
the  wall,  one  on  each  side.  These  are  5  feet  wide, 
made  of  slats  on  4-inch  studding;  this  permits  of  a 
4-inch  air  space  all  around  each  bin,  the  end  near 
the  outside  wall  included. 

"  When  the  bins  are  filled,  the  driveway  may  be 
filled  if  desired.  The  heads  are  cut  close,  prac- 
tically ready  for  shipment,  and  are  piled  in  the 
bins,  from  the  fioor  to  the  ceiling.  The  filling  is 
done  in  cold  weather,  if  possible,  and  care  is  re- 
quired in  ventilating  to  keep  the  temperature  of  the 
building  as  near  30  to  35  degrees  as  possible,  open- 
ing during  cool  nights,  and  keeping  closed  on  warm 
days  or  when  cold  snaps  occur. 

"  One  or  two  carloads  may  be  stored  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner:  Select  a  dry  site,  excavate  about 
one-half  foot  deep  and  9  feet  wide,  and  of  the  de- 
sired length.  Set  posts  in  each  corner  and  every  4 
or  5  feet  along  the  side,  letting  them  project  about 
4  feet  above  ground  level.  Board  up  the  inside,  16- 
foot  boards  being  useful.  Set  2  x  4-inch  rafters  on 
the  studding,  and  roof  with  wide  boards,  lapping 
them  a  little.  Cover  the  apex  of  the  roof  with  two 
boards,  fastened  together  like  an  inverted  V.     Bank 


l66  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

Up  the  outside  of  the  house,  and  in  cold  weather 
cover  the  roof  with  straw." 

CANTALOUPES  AND  WATERMELONS 

A  warm,  sandy  soil  made  rich  with  stable 
manure,  thoroughly  composted,  is  generally  con- 
sidered the  genial  home  of  the  cantaloupe,  so  far  as 
regards  the  production  of  a  crop.  But  quality  is 
quite  as  important  a  consideration  as  quantity.  To 
produce  a  large  crop  is  an  easy  matter,  but  to  pro- 
duce melons  of  high  flavor  is  an  art  that  has  never 
been  taught.  Whence  comes  that  high  flavor  pe- 
culiar to  melons  produced  in  a  given  section  and 
not  in  another,  although  not  far  distant,  is  a  mys- 
tery. We  know  such  is  the  case  with  all  vegetables 
and  fruits,  but  why  we  cannot  determine. 

As  the  melon  is  a  sub-tropical  fruit,  requiring  a 
warm  situation  and  a  rich  soil,  it  should  ever  have 
the  most  sunny  as  well  as  the  most  airy  situation, 
and  be  given  every  facility  for  growth  possible. 
In  the  preparation  of  the  soil  haste  is  not  essential, 
as  the  seed  should  not  be  sown  before  the  middle 
of  May.  The  soil,  when  in  condition  for  the  most 
thorough  tilth,  should  be  covered  to  the  depth  of  2 
inches  with  stable  manure,  thoroughly  composted. 
Work  this  in  as  evenly  as  possible  to  the  depth  of 
a  foot,  then  mark  it  out  in  squares  of  6  feet ;  at  the 
angle  of  each,  dig  a  hole  i  foot  deep  and  18  inches 
in  diameter.  Put  in  additional  manure  to  the  depth 
of  4  inches,  after  being  thoroughly  packed  down, 
fill  the  hole  with  the  soil  thrown  out  and  raise  the 
hill  to  the  height  of  2  inches  above  the  level.  When 
the  hills  are  all  prepared,  plant  in  each,  say,  ten 
seeds,  well  scattered,  and  cover  to  the  depth  of  half 
an  inch. 


THE   VEGETABLE   GARDEN  I67 

When  the  plants  commence  active  growth,  and 
the  dangers  from  insect  enemies  are  past,  throw  out 
all  the  plants  but  two,  leaving  the  most  vigorous. 
As  soon  as  the  flowers  appear  nip  off  the  heads  of 
all  the  leading  vines,  which  produce  only  staminate 
flowers.  This  will  encourage  the  lateral  branches 
which  yield  the  fruit,  and  w^ill  more  than  double  the 
crop.  The  object  of  every  plant  is  reproduction. 
When  that  purpose  is  thwarted  by  taking  away  a 
large  proportion  of  the  staminate  flowers,  the  plant 
sends  out  laterals,  which  will  set  more  than  double 
the  number  of  fruits,  each  of  which  will  contain  a 
much  smaller  number  of  seeds,  doubly  protected 
by  a  much  thicker  covering  of  flesh.  This  serves 
the  double  purpose  of  seed  preservation  and  food 
supply;  hence  the  all-important  secret,  or  con- 
sideration in  the  cultivation  of  the  melon. 

The  best  variety  to  plant  in  order  to  get  the  best 
results  is  that  one  which  does  best  in  the  place  you 
have  for  it.  The  question  of  preference  is  some- 
what governed  by  taste.  Some  prefer  the  green- 
fleshed,  others  the  pink-fleshed  varieties.  That 
being  settled,  the  next  consideration  is  which  will 
thrive  best  in  the  place  you  have  for  it.  Observa- 
tion  and   experiment  alone   will  determine   that. 

The  all-important  work  of  cultivation  is  to  have 
the  soil  worked  deep  and  fine  before  the  seeds  are 
sown.  After  that,  keep  the  surface  always  loose, 
to  the  depth  of  an  inch.  This  surface  cultivation 
should  follow  every  shower,  and  as  much  oftener  as 
convenient.  But  there  is  one  consideration  of 
vital  importance,  viz.,  always  get  the  best  seed 
without  regard  to  cost.  To  determine  this  there 
is  one  safe  rule,  that  is,  to  have  at  least  sufficient 
to  last  for  five  years  always  on  hand.  One  of  the 
most  successful  melon  growers  we  have  ever  known 


l68  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

said  melon  seed  is  not  fit  to  plant  until  it  is  ten 
years  old,  because  the  older  the  seed,  the  lower  its 
vitality,  consequently  it  will  produce  less  seed  and 
more  flesh.  It,  therefore,  follows  that  to  have  a 
constant  supply  of  seed  that  has  been  tested  and 
known  to  be  all  that  is  desirable  is  to  know  that 
disappointment  in  regard  to  quality  of  the  produc- 
tion will  be  averted.  Do  not  save  your  own  seed, 
that  is  the  seedman's  work.  The  cost  is  but  a  trifle 
in  proportion  to  its  value.  Plant  a  single  hill  from 
a  new  lot  each  year  in  advance  of  the  main  planting. 

Among  the  popular  cantaloupes  of  the  large  mar- 
kets, writes  the  editor,  are  the  Montreal  Market, 
Rocky  Ford,  Netted  Gem,  Emerald  Gem,  and 
Hackensack.  This  last  one,  however,  has  been 
rapidly  giving  place  to  melons  of  higher  quality 
ever  since  the  Rocky  Ford  crusade,  which  was  in- 
augurated in  the  late  '90's.  The  varieties  men- 
tioned are  popular  not  only  because  of  their  ready 
salability,  but  also  because  of  their  high  quality. 
They  are  excellent  for  home  use. 

The  Montreal  Market  is,  perhaps,  the  largest 
muskmelon  of  high  quality  grown,  specimens  often 
weighing  10  pounds  or  more.  The  Rocky  Ford  is 
small,  weighing  2  pounds.  The  other  varieties 
mentioned,  with  the  exception  of  the  Hackensack, 
are  round-formed  varieties,  weighing  from  3  to  6 
pounds.  All  these  varieties,  with  the  exception  of 
the  Emerald  Gem,  are  green-fleshed.  There  are  a 
number  of  red  or  salmon-colored  varieties  of  good 
quality  which  command  a  ready  sale  in  markets 
where  they  are  known.  They  are,  however,  not 
quite  so  popular  as  the  green-fleshed  sorts.  Among 
the  leading  varieties  are  Paul  Rose,  Osage  or  Mil- 
ler's Cream,  Emerald  Gem,  and  Banquet. 


THE   VEGETABLE   GARDEN  1 69 

The  Montreal  Market  is  more  noted  in  the  north 
than  in  the  south,  but  whether  this  is  simply  be- 
cause of  gaining  its  repute  in  Montreal  and  other 
northern  markets  is  not  known.  It  would  be  well 
worth  any  planter's  efforts  to  try  all  the  varieties 
mentioned  in  an  experimental  way,  and  decide 
which  is  best  suited  for  his  conditions.  So  far  as 
quality  is  concerned,  he  can  make  no  mistake  in 
the  list  given. 

As  to  watermelons,  probably  no  variety  exceeds 
in  high  quality  the  old  Florida  Favorite,  Ice  Cream, 
and  Sweetheart.  These,  however,  are  not  espe- 
cially noted  in  the  large  markets.  They  are  mostly 
desirable  for  home  use  and  the  local  market.  With- 
out sacrificing  too  much  in  the  way  of  quality,  the 
grower  may  find  Kleckley's  Sweet,  Alabama  Sweet, 
Duke's  Jones,  Triumph,  Lord  Bacon,  and  Jumbo  to 
be  good  ones.  They  are  all  superior  to  Kolb  Gem, 
which  for  so  many  years  has  been  a  leading  shipper 
from  the  south,  and  holds  a  place  among  melons 
similar  to  the  Ben  Davis  among  apples  and  the 
Kieffer  among  pears. 

There  are  other  varieties  of  excellent  quality, 
such  as  the  Gray  Monarch,  Sibley,  and  Seminole, 
which  should  find  a  place  in  any  list  of  good  va- 
rieties. As  to  earliness.  Sugar  Loaf,  Rattlesnake, 
and  Memphis  hold  a  high  reputation,  and  for  late- 
ness Scaly  Bark,  Sweetheart,  and  Boss  are  also 
noted. 

CANTALOUPES  AND   STRAWBERRIES 
TOGETHER 

"  Early  last  April,"  writes  W.  W.  Byrn  of  Dor- 
chester county,  Maryland,  "  I  put  about  five  acres 
in  good  tilth  for  strawberries.     Then  I  struck  out 


170  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

furrows  4  feet  apart  with  a  one-horse  plow,  and 
immediately  covered  them  by  running  the  same 
plow  on  each  side,  thus  making  a  ridge  or  list. 
The  object  in  opening  the  furrows  before  ridging 
was  to  secure  a  good,  deep,  soft  soil  in  which  to 
plant. 

"  A  one-horse  spike-tooth  cultivator  was  then 
passed  once  lengthwise  on  the  top  of  these  ridges 
to  smooth  them  down  somewhat,  but  still  to  leave 
them  slightly  above  the  level.  I  then  used  a  heavy 
chain  crosswise  to  mark  off  these  rows  in  checks 
2^  feet  apart.  A  strawberry  plant,  variety  Ten- 
nessee Prolific,  was  placed  at  each  check. 

"  No  fertilizer  was  used  in  the  furrows  under  the 
plants,  because  the  land  was  good  and  because  I 
had  lost  a  crop  of  fruit  the  year  before  by  too  heavy 
fertilization  when  managed  in  this  way;  so  many 
plants  were  formed  that  fruit  did  not  set. 

''  In  planting  I  used  paddles  made  from  a  strip 
of  seasoned  white  oak  8  inches  long  by  4  inches 
thick.  Three  holes  were  bored  close  together 
about  i^  inches  from  the  upper  end,  and  the  edges 
rounded  off  like  a  spade  handle.  The  lower  end 
was  then  pared  down  to  make  a  sort  of  blade,  which 
could  be  easily  thrust  in  the  ground.  I  like  these 
paddles  better  than  anything  else  I  have  ever  used 
for  planting,  because  they  do  not  tire  the  hand, 
and  because  they  open  a  large  hole  in  which  to 
place  the  plant  with  its  roots  spread  out  well  and 
deeply.  The  field  was  then  cultivated  both  ways 
with  an  ordinary  one-horse  cultivator,  using  the 
narroAvest  teeth  next  the  plants  until  they  began 
to  make  runners,  and  closing  the  machine  when 
going  between  the  plants  the  narrow  way.  One 
hand  hoeing  around  the  hills  was  given  in  May 
and  another  in  June. 


THE   VEGETABLE   GARDEN  I7I 

"About  July  I,  I  planted  hills  of  Rocky  Ford 
cantaloupes  in  each  alternate  strawberry  row, 
allowing  three  strawberry  hills  between  the  can- 
taloupe hills.  This  made  the  hills  8  feet  apart  one 
way  and  yY^  the  other,  and  still  left  the  wide  inter- 
furrows  free  for  cultivation  as  before.  As  soon  as 
the  cantaloupes  came  up  about  loo  pounds  to  the 
acre  of  good  phosphate  was  scattered  around  the 
hills  and  hoed  in.  The  berry  plants  began  about 
this  time  to  run  freely,  so  I  attached  the  rolling 
coulter  of  the  flushing  plow  to  the  one-horse  plow 
and  ran  it  2  or  3  inches  deep  on  each  side  of  the 
furrows.  The  plow  threw  the  severed  plants  out 
of  the  way.  Next  day  a  cultivator  with  large 
flukes  threw  the  earth  back  in  place.  One  more 
hoeing  and  one  more  cultivation  were  given  to  com- 
plete the  work,  except  for  the  pulling  of  occasional 
stray  weeds. 

"  The  cantaloupes  set  fairly  well  and  I  netted  $25 
an  acre  from  the  crop  and  left  a  fine  stand  of  straw- 
berry plants  in  condition  for  a  full  crop  the  next 
year.  Had  all  the  fruit  matured,  I  believe  I  should 
have  netted  nearly  $100  an  acre.  In  October  I 
gave  the  berry  plants  a  top-dressing  of  about  800 
pounds  an  acre  of  high-grade  phosphate,  contain- 
ing about  10  per  cent  of  actual  potash.  This  ex- 
periment has  been  so  encouraging  to  me  that  I 
shall  try  it  again  with  hopes  of  better  success  next 
time.  The  cash  returns  from  the  cantaloupes  have 
been  more  than  the  combined  expense  for  both 
crops.  I  cannot  see  that  the  future  berry  crop  has 
been  in  any  way  injured  by  having  the  cantaloupes 
planted  with  it,  nor  by  the  trampling  in  gathering- 
the  fruit." 


172  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

PACKING  AND  MARKETING  CANTA- 
LOUPES 

W.  F.  Allen  of  Wicomico  county,  Maryland, 
says :  "  There  is  some  difference  of  opinion  about 
picking  cantaloupes.  It  is  necessary  to  pick 
greener  when  the  fruits  are  to  be  several  days  in 
transit,  but  I  will  give  my  way  of  doing  it.  The 
first  half  of  the  season  I  pick  as  soon  as  the  stems 
can  be  forced  with  the  thumb  to  part  from  the  fruit 
without  breaking  out  a  piece  of  the  melon  with  it ; 
that  is,  it  must  come  of¥  smooth,  and  not  tear  or 
break  the  flesh.  This  condition  should  prevail  be- 
fore the  cantaloupe  has  begun  to  turn  yellow.  A 
cantaloupe  that  is  in  this  condition  and  just  right 
to  ship  one  day  will  be  quite  yellow  and  unfit  for 
transportation  the  next  day.  After  the  season  is 
one-half  to  two-thirds  gone  and  the  weather  is 
very  hot,  as  is  usually  the  case,  I  find  it  safe  to  cut 
them  off  with  stems  after  they  are  full  grown  and 
densely  netted.  It  requires  careful  help  to  pick 
a  crop  of  cantaloupes  without  considerable  loss 
from  picking  too  green  or  too  ripe.  In  either  case, 
those  too  ripe  or  too  green  should  not  go  in  the 
package.  An  expert  should  follow  just  behind 
every  15  or  20  pickers  to  see  that  they  are  doing 
their  work  properly.  Wagons  should  be  ready  to 
take  the  cantaloupes  to  the  packing  shed  soon  after 
they  are  brought  out  to  the  end  of  the  rows. 

"  All  handling  should  be  carefully  done  to  pre- 
vent bruising  and  bursting.  When  the  fruits  ar- 
rive at  the  packing  shed,  the  packers,  mostly 
women,  hurry  them  into  the  crates,  which  hold  45 
cantaloupes  each.  Every  cantaloupe  should  be 
perfect.  One  crate,  well  packed,  carefully  culled, 
and  in  perfect  order,  is  worth  three  that  may  be 


THE   VEGETABLE   GARDEN  173 

packed  out  of  the  same  pile  by  a  careless  packer, 
who  will  put  in  a  cull  or  two,  and  perhaps  pack 
loosely  so  the  cantaloupes  can  roll  about.  When  a 
crate  is  packed  loosely  or  with  two  or  three  bad 
cantaloupes,  it  is  sent  back  to  the  person  who 
packed  it  to  be  packed  over  again,  then  to  the 
refrigerator  car. 

"  As  no  cantaloupes  are  picked  on  Sunday,  we 
have  many  ripe  ones  on  Monday,  so  the  finest  of 
these  are  selected  for  seed.  Two  or  three  cars  a 
day  during  the  season  is  my  usual  crop.  These  are 
shipped  principally  to  New  York  city,  which  is  one 
of  the  best  cantaloupe  markets  when  the  quality 
is  good,  and  quantity  not  too  excessive.  When 
this  occurs,  Boston  is  my  next  choice  of  markets 
on  a  venture.  I  sometimes  ship  a  surplus  car  to 
Pittsburg,  Philadelphia,  Hartford,  and  Springfield, 
whichever  market  offers  the  best  inducements,  but 
never  under  any  circumstances  do  I  ship  to  more 
than  one  firm  in  one  city." 

BUSINESS  WATERMELON  GROWING 

According  to  Theodore  Brown  of  Gloucester 
county.  New  Jersey,  "  The  best  soil  to  grow 
watermelons  in  is  a  light  sand,  or  sandy  loam, 
previously  occupied  by  clover  sod.  Usually,  how- 
ever, melons  follow  corn  or  sweet  potatoes.  The 
land  should  be  plowed  in  the  late  fall  or  early 
spring  and  given  a  light  coat  of  barnyard  manure 
broadcast.  The  rows  are  then  marked  8  feet  apart 
with  a  two-horse  plow  and  a  light  dressing  of  well- 
rotted  stable  manure  or  of  high-grade  fertilizer 
spread  in  the  furrows.  In  covering,  the  row  is 
ridged  up  well,  and  let  stand  until  ready  to  plant, 
when  a  sled  marker  is  run  crossways,  making  the 


174  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

rows  8x8  feet.  The  dropper  follows  the  marker, 
dropping  eight  to  ten  seeds  in  each  hill,  being  care- 
ful to  put  part  of  the  seed  on  the  side  of  the  mark, 
so  that  when  covered  with  a  hoe  some  of  the  seed 
will  have  one-half  inch  of  soil  and  others  from  I 
to  i^  inches.  The  lighter  covering  will  be  best 
for  wei  covering  and  the  deeper  for  dry.  The  first 
planting  is  made  about  April  25  and  additional 
plantings  about  ten  days  apart  until  danger  of  frost 
is  over  and  a  full  stand  is  secured. 

"  When  the  young  plants  come  up  they  are 
dusted  with  a  mixture  of  air-slaked  lime,  plaster, 
and  tobacco  dust,  to  keep  off  the  striped  beetle. 
This  application  is  repeated  every  few  days  until 
the  plants  have  rough  leaves.  Bordeaux  mixture 
is  considered  a  sure  preventive  for  fleas.  At  least 
once  each  week  the  plants  are  cultivated  with  a 
horse  hoe  or  riding  cultivator,  and  when  they  come 
in  rough  leaf  are  hoed  and  thinned  to  three  or  four 
plants  in  the  hills.  When  they  start  to  vine  only 
one  plant  is  left  in  each  hill.  The  last  cultivation 
is  given  just  before  the  vines  meet,  turning  the 
vines  in  each  alternate  middle,  harrowing  and  then 
turning  them  back,  harrowing  remaining  middles, 
then  laying  the  vines  out  carefully  by  hand. 
Usually  clover  seed  is  sown  just  previous  to  this 
last  cultivation. 

"  The  varieties  popular  in  this  section  are  Dark 
Icing,  doubtless  the  best  melon  for  home  use,  but 
too  tender  and  sweet  for  market  purposes,  and 
Kleckley  Sweet,  one  of  the  new  very  sweet  ones. 
For  market  purposes,  a  melon  that  will  not  bruise 
in  handling  and  will  cut  solid  slices,  tough  enough 
to  stand  up  and  look  nice  on  the  table,  is  in  demand. 
Dixie,  Sweetheart,  Pride  of  Georgia,  answer  these 
requirements.     When  sufficient  melons  are  ripe  to 


THE   VEGETABLE   GARDEN  175 

make  a  picking,  the  ripe  ones  are  cut  with  stems 
'about  2  inches  and  piled  along  roads  laid  out  at 
convenient  distances  through  the  fields.  They  are 
thence  loaded  into  Avagons  and  taken  to  the  car  or 
to  the  city  market. 

"  From  $15  to  $20  a  hundred  for  large  fruits  are 
the  highest  prices  realized  for  melons  at  the  car, 
often  the  price  drops  to  $8  or  $6,  and  sometime* 
the  fruits  cannot  be  sold.  Twenty  to  30  years  ago 
melon  growing  was  an  important  industry  in  this 
section,  many  farmers  then  growing  from  5  to  20 
acres  each,  and  usually  realizing  from  $50  to  $100 
an  acre ;  but  competition  with  southern  growers, 
on  cheap  land,  with  cheap  labor,  and  low  freights, 
has  made  the  profits  uncertain,  and  today  very  few 
melons  are  grown  here  except  for  home  use  or  local 
trade." 

CARROTS 

Carrots  are  used  both  for  table  vegetables  and 
for  flavoring  soups  and  stews.  They  are  of  the 
easiest  culture.  The  seed  is  sown  in  rich,  mellow 
soil,  preferably  with  a  few  radish  seeds  to  mark  the 
rows  and  kept  cleanly  cultivated  until  they  get  a 
good  start.  If  sown  as  soon  as  the  ground  can  be 
worked,  roots  can  be  secured  by  the  latter  part  of 
May  or  early  June.  For  the  small  early  sorts  14 
inches  between  the  rows  is  sufiicient,  but  for  the 
late,  large-growing  kinds  18  inches  is  preferable. 
It  is  desirable,  however,  to  use  the  small  growing 
kinds  exclusively,  because  they  are  much  more  easy 
to  dig  than  the  long  ones.  The  plants  are  thinned 
when  about  4  inches  tall  to  4  or  6  inches  apart. 
Storing  is  the  same  as  for  turnips.  Carrots  are 
often  forced  in  hotbeds  and  cold  frames  for  the 
early    market.     They    are    as    easily    managed    as 


176  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

radishes  for  this  purpose.     Among  the  best  known 
varieties  are  Short  Scarlet,  Danvers,  and  Oxhart. 

CAULIFLOWER 

"  I  own  40  acres  in  the  suburbs  of  Chicago  and 
value  this  land  at  $5,000  an  acre,"  writes  Sivert 
Howelesen  of  Cook  county,  Illinois.  "  The  least 
profit  these  40  acres  have  ever  returned  me  was 
$3,000  annually.  My  principal  farming  has  con- 
sisted in  vegetables  to  supply  the  Chicago  markets, 
mainly  cauliflowers,  and  also  spinach,  cabbage, 
cucumbers,  radishes,  and  other  crops  in  season.  I 
have  been  particularly  successful  with  cauliflowers, 
and  the  following  is  the  way  I  have  managed : 

"  The  seeds  are  sown  in  drills  in  the  hothouse 
early  in  March.  This  hothouse  is  made  into  a  cold 
frame  after  the  plants  have  been  out  of  the  ground 
several  days.  They  are  transplanted  in  May  to  the 
fields,  where  they  are  placed  23/2  feet  apart,  the 
plants  themselves  being  18  inches  apart  in  the  row. 
When  there  is  any  danger  of  worms  of  any  kind,  I 
place  the  plants  close  together,  because  the  loss  will 
then  be  less  in  proportion  to  the  acreage  planted. 
When  the  first  crop  has  been  taken  out  of  the  hot- 
house, I  immediately  sow  other  seed,  generally 
getting  three  or  four  crops  each  season  to  keep  the 
market  continuously  supplied  between  July  and 
the  first  frost. 

"  My  soil  is  a  black  loam.  I  use  no  compost  or 
commercial  fertilizer.  Twenty-five  loads  of  manure 
an  acre  is  about  the  usual  amount  applied.  I  get 
this  manure  from  the  city  stables  and  the  cost, 
when  I  figure  the  cost  of  team  and  man  and  the 
great  distance  from  the  sources  of  supply,  amounts 
to  $2  a  load. 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN  177 

"  I  practice  clean  cultivation,  mainly  to  keep  the 
weeds  down  and  yet  aim  to  conserve  the  moisture; 
sometimes  cultivating  as  many  as  three  or  four 
times  a  season,  using  a  one-horse  cultivator.  In 
order  to  utilize  the  land  to  the  utmost,  I  plant 
celery  between  the  cauliflower  rows,  planting  just 
at  the  time  when  the  cauliflowers  are  being  set  out. 

"  As  soon  as  the  heads  commence  to  form  I  draw 
the  outside  leaves  together  and  tie  them  to  keep 
the  sunlight  off  the  heads.  This  should  be  done  as 
soon  as  the  head  can  be  seen  and  I  usually  leave 
the  leaves  tied  until  the  head  is  cut  out.  When 
treated  in  this  way  the  heads  will  nearly  always  be 
snowy  white.  Otherwise  they  become  brown,  and, 
if  kept  long  in  the  field  unprotected,  will  become 
yellow  and  the  heads  will  spread,  losing  their  crisp- 
ness  and  delicate  flavor.  Late  in  the  season  I  find 
immature  heads  do  best  if  put  in  cold  frame  or  cold 
cellar  to  mature." 

"  I  have  grown  cauliflower  for  three  years," 
writes  L.  P.  Fisher  of  New  Hampshire.  "  I  have 
tried  the  Snowball  variety.  Cauliflower  will  do 
well  on  ground  that  has  been  worked  for  a  year  or 
two.  The  soil  should  be  rich  and  well  pulverized. 
It  has  been  my  experience  that  cauliflower  will  not 
do  well  when  transplanted,  and  for  that  reason  it 
is  best  to  sow  as  many  hills  as  you  wish  to  cul- 
tivate. When  the  plants  are  up  they  may  be 
thinned  to  one  in  the  hill. 

"  In  regard  to  blanching :  I  go  over  my  crop  twice 
a  week  on  the  average,  and  tie  the  tops  over  the 
heads  where  there  is  danger  of  sunburn.  In  a  very 
few  days  after  this  is  done  the  heads  are  ready  for 
market.  I  have  never  had  any  trouble  with  the 
heads  rotting,  caused  by  tying  the  tops  over  them." 


178  MAKING   HORTICULTURE  PAY 

As  to  cauliflower  cultivation  in  Missouri,  Prof. 
J.  C.  Whitten  of  the  state  experiment  station, 
writes :  "  With  the  first  warm  days  of  March  or 
early  April,  the  plants  should  be  transplanted  to 
the  open  ground.  The  richest  soil  obtainable 
should  be  selected  for  the  cauliflower  plantation. 
Two  or  three  hundred  loads  of  old,  decomposed 
manure  will  not  make  the  land  too  rich.  It  is  im- 
portant, also,  to  secure  a  moist  soil  and  yet  one  in 
which  good  drainage  may  be  secured.  A  moder- 
ately heavy  clay  loam,  sufficiently  well  drained  so 
that  water  will  not  stand  on  it,  is  best. 

"  In  transplanting  they  should  be  removed  with 
as  much  of  their  roots  remaining  as  possible  and 
some  of  the  outer  leaves  should  be  broken  ofif  to 
lessen  the  amount  of  evaporation  before  the  root 
system  is  established.  The  plants  are  usually  set 
18  inches  apart,  in  rows  3  feet  apart,  so  as  to  admit 
of  cultivation  one  way  with  a  horse.  Frequent  and 
thorough  cultivation  is  of  the  utmost  importance. 

"As  warm  weather  approaches,  plant  lice  often 
attack  the  cauliflower.  These  are  best  kept  down 
by  the  use  of  tobacco.  If  tobacco  stems  from  the 
cigar  factory,  or  fine  tobacco  dust  is  scattered  along 
the  rows,  in  early  spring,  the  plant  lice  are  not 
likely  to  appear.  It  is  always  better  to  prevent 
their  appearance  by  an  early  application  of  tobacco, 
than  to  attempt  to  get  rid  of  them  once  they  have 
become  abundant.  If  lice  appear  on  the  plant,  the 
best  remedy  is  to  dust  them  with  fine  tobacco. 

"  As  the  plants  begin  to  head  the  outer  leaves 
should  be  drawn  up  and  tied  so  as  to  cover  the 
head.  This  bleaches  the  head  and  prevents  injury 
by  the  bright  sunlight.  In  preparing  for  the  market 
the  outer  leaves  are  usually  trimmed  to  the  rim  of 
the  head  and  the  cauliflower  packed  in  small  boxes. 


THE   VEGETABLE   GARDEN  179 

WINTER  FORCING 

"  Cauliflowers  are  also  frequently  forced  in  win- 
ter in  greenhouses  or  in  hotbeds.  For  forcing,  the 
seeds  may  be  planted  at  any  time  in  winter  as 
previously  described.  The  plants  should  first  be 
transplanted  4  inches  apart  in  a  hotbed.  Fre- 
quently water  and  ventilate  as  much  as  is  possible 
without  injury  from  cold  weather.  At  first  they 
may  be  kept  warm  enough  so  the  growth  will  be 
moderately  rapid,  but  the  amount  of  ventilation 
and  exposure  should  be  gradually  increased  so  as 
to  promote  a  strong  growth  and  short  stems. 

"  When  the  plants  have  reached  as  much  de- 
velopment as  they  can  make  without  crowding 
planted  4  inches  apart,  they  should  be  permanently 
transplanted  to  the  larger  hotbed.  In  this  per- 
manent planting  they  should  be  set  18  inches  apart 
each  way,  with  about  8  inches  of  very  rich  soil 
above  the  hotbed  compost.  Lettuce  or  radishes 
can  be  grown  as  a  catch  crop  between  them.  If 
radishes  are  grown,  the  seeds  should  be  sown  in 
drills  4  inches  apart  and  in  four  or  five  weeks  they 
will  be  ready  to  be  removed  for  market." 

CELERY 

"  Celery  seed  should  be  sown  out  of  doors  as  soon 
as  the  soil  is  in  first-class  condition  to  work.  The 
seed  bed  should  be  thoroughly  pulverized  and  raked 
very  finely  to  give  the  small  seeds  a  chance  to  start. 
Two  or  three  square  yards  of  ground,"  says  Irving 
C.  Smith  of  Wisconsin,  "  is  plenty  to  grow  plants 
for  yourself  and  to  give  your  friends.  Don't  be  afraid 
to  cover  the  seed.  There  is  an  old  threadbare  theory 
that  celery  seed  will  not  come  up  if  covered.     This 


l80  MAKING   HORTICULTURE  PAY 

is  not  true.  The  seed  grows  with  much  more  cer- 
tainty if  covered  reasonably,  one-fourth  to  one-half 
inch.  If  sown  broadcast,  rake  it  in  and  press 
the  soil  down  with  a  board. 

"  The  soil  may  be  any  good  garden  soil.  The  essen- 
tials are  a  soil  that  will  not  bake,  plenty  of  fertility, 
and  water.  Here,  again,  we  often  hear  the  state- 
ment that  celery  must  have  a  muck  bed  to  be  a 
success.  I  have  grown  celery  for  over  20  years  on 
a  sandy  loam,  varying  all  the  way  from  a  sharp 
sand  to  a  black  loam  with  very  little  sand  in  it. 
Given  the  required  amount  of  fertility  and  moisture, 
the  loam  soil  does  better  than  the  muck.  The 
quality  of  the  muck-grown  stock  is  not  nearly  up 
to  that  grown  on  loam. 

"  An  old  strawberry  bed  which  was  well  manured 
and  plowed  when  set  makes  a  very  fine  celery  bed. 
As  soon  as  the  berries  are  off,  spread  on  a  liberal 
dressing  of  well-rotted,  fine  manure  and  plow;  then 
another  dressing  of  fine  manure  on  top,  disk  very 
thoroughly  and  drag.  Do  not  begrudge  a  little 
work  here,  as  good  preparation  is  a  necessity  to 
good  success. 

"  At  this  time  the  plants  should  be,  if  you  have 
taken  good  care  of  them,  about  6  or  8  inches  high, 
and  the  size  of  a  large  lead  pencil.  Pull  only  the 
largest  plants  and  clip  the  roots  to  3  to  4  inches 
and  the  tops  to  4  to  5  inches  long.  Wet  at  once 
to  prevent  wilting.  It  is  important  that  celery  be 
set  in  straight  rows,  so  draw  a  line  up  taut  where 
the  row  is  to  be  and  set  plants  close  to  it. 

"  The  plants  should  be  5  to  6  inches  apart  in  the 
row  and  the  rows  3^^  to  4  feet  apart.  In  setting 
use  a  common  garden  trowel  to  open  the  hole  and 
be  sure  it  is  as  deep  as  the  root  is  long.  Set  the 
plants  in  so  only  the  root  is  in  the  ground  and  pack 


THE   VEGETABLE   GARDEN  l8l 

the  soil  very  firmly.  Water  enough  so  the  soil  is 
v^et  as  deep  as  the  roots  go.  If  weather  is  cool  or 
damp  for  a  few  days,  only  one  watering  is  necessary, 
but  if  very  hot  and  dry  it  may  be  necessary  to 
water  once  or  twice  more  to  insure  a  good  start. 

"  Cultivate  thoroughly  as  soon  as  plants  are 
started  and  keep  it  up  all  the  season.  Do  not 
throw  dirt  into  the  hearts  of  the  plants,  when  cul- 
tivating or  banking.  When  plants  are  a  foot  high 
comes  the  first  banking.  Straighten  up  the  leaves 
with  one  hand  and  draw  earth  up  to  the  plant  with 
the  other.  This  makes  the  plants  grow  erect  and  fills 
out  in  the  heart.  The  banking  should  be  repeated 
as  the  plants  grow,  until  the  row  is  banked  to  a  foot 
or  15  inches  high.  A  part  of  it  may  be  left  with 
only  enough  banking  to  hold  the  stalks  up  straight. 
This  will  keep  longer  than  the  fully  banked  and 
blanched. 

"  Now  that  you  have  the  crop  grown,  care  must 
be  taken  not  to  spoil  it  in  harvesting  or  storing. 
The  digging  of  the  celery  should  be  deferred  until 
the  latest  date  possible.  If  it  can  be  left  till  the 
afternoon  of  the  last  warm  day,  when  you  see  that 
a  sharp  freeze  is  at  hand,  so  much  the  better.  With 
a  tile  spade  or  shovel,  dig  under  the  plants  so  as 
to  cut  off  the  roots  i  or  2  inches  below  the  leaf 
stalks.  Pull  off  all  the  small,  half-grown  stalks 
from  the  outside  of  each  plant. 

*'  If  you  have  a  cool  cellar  with  an  earth  floor, 
take  the  celery  there  and  set  it  up  straight,  throw- 
ing a  little  earth  against  the  roots  of  each  row  as  it 
is  set  up.  Pack  rather  loosely,  but  not  so  loosely  as 
to  sag  over  on  one  side.  The  temperature  should 
be  as  near  the  freezing  point  as  possible.  If  cellar 
has  a  brick  or  cement  floor,  a  little  earth  may  be 
brought  in,  or  the  celery  packed  in  boxes  in  the 


l82  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

field  by  putting  a  little  earth  in  the  bottom  and 
packing  as  above.  Boxes  should  be  about  as  high 
as  the  celery.  These  can  be  carried  and  stored  in 
the  cellar. 

"  It  is  an  aid  to  keeping  if  a  part  of  the  leaves  are 
trimmed  off  before  digging.  This  can  be  done  with 
a  sickle  by  clipping  off  both  sides  of  the  row.  Pack 
the  different  varieties  separately,  as  the  white  sorts 
are  ready  to  use  first." 

PREPARING  CELERY   FOR   MARKET 

"  The  cleaning  and  dressing  of  celery  should  be 
done  in  the  cellar  or  pit,"  continues  Mr.  Smith. 
"  First  hold  the  head  in  the  left  hand  with  the  root 
toward  you  and  with  the  other  hand  pull  off  the 
outside  leaves,  using  the  thumb  mostly,  turning  the 
head  at  the  same  time  from  right  to  left  so  the  part 
that  is  stripped  off  will  be  up,  giving  you  a  chance 
to  see  what  is  done.  When  the  head  has  been 
worked  once  around  it  should  be  finished.  Then 
turn  the  root  from  you  and  cut  off  to  a  point,  mak- 
ing four  to  six  cuts  to  a  head,  cutting  from  you  as 
if  whittling  a  stick  to  a  point.  The  knife  is  held 
in  the  hand  all  the  time.  When  two  are  working 
together,  I  usually  have  one  clean  off  the  waste 
and  lay  the  head  down  for  the  other  to  trim  the 
roots.  All  yellow,  decayed,  or  green  stalks  should 
be  removed,  even  if  the  heads  are  left  a  little  small 
by  so  doing,  as  a  medium-size,  well-blanched  head 
will  sell  better  than  the  same  head  with  one  or  two 
green  stalks  still  on  it. 

''  My  washing  room  is  in  the  basement  of  the 
packing  house,  where  I  have  a  large  kettle  in  a 
brick  furnace  for  heating  water,  a  box  tub  with 
plug  hole  in  bottom  for  washing,  and  a  table  for  the 


THE   VEGETABLE   GARDEN  1 83 

unwashed  celery.  The  tub  should  be  about  30 
inches  wide,  42  to  48  inches  long  (big  enough  for 
two  washes),  and  15  to  18  inches  deep.  It  is  neces- 
sary to  have  12  to  15  inches  of  water  in  the  tub 
so  the  sand  and  other  dirt  may  settle  to  the  bottom, 
else  your  water  is  very  quickly  too  dirty  to  use. 

"  The  water  should  be  90  to  100  degrees,  or  about 
blood  heat,  to  get  best  results.  Dump  a  box  of 
celery  in  the  tub  with  the  butts  tow^ard  you.  Hold 
the  head  to  be  washed  in  left  hand  about  half  out 
of  the  water,  and  brush  it  down  with  a  soft  scrub 
brush  (one  with  bristles  similar  to  a  common  shoe 
brush  is  best),  running  the  brush  down  to  the 
leaves  each  stroke.  This  keeps  the  brush  fresh 
and  clean,  and  saves  the  necessity  of  dipping  it; 
also  brushes  off  the  rotten  particles  which  may  be 
clinging  to  the  leaves.  Turn  head  as  in  first  dress- 
ing, from  right  to  left,  so  washed  surface  comes 
up.  Sometimes  it  is  necessary  to  push  out  a  stalk 
from  the  head  a  little  to  get  the  dirt  out  from  the 
inside.  Have  a  quarter  or  third-inch  mesh,  square 
wire  sieve  at  hand  to  dip  out  the  leaves  and  float- 
ing particles  from  tub  after  each  box  is  washed. 

"  Now  comes  the  tying.  The  tyer  must  be  care- 
ful or  everyone  will  not  get  equal  value.  I  have 
found  three  heads  to  the  bunch  the  best  method 
for  our  trade.  The  reasons  are,  the  retailer  does 
not  have  to  cut  bunches,  and  so  sells  three  stalks 
many  times  where  one  or  two  would  go  if  sold 
loose.  Then,  too,  one  can,  by  tying  three  in  a  bunch, 
make  bunches  so  nearly  even  in  size  that  there  is 
little  occasion  to  sort  it  over  to  get  the  biggest, 
and  so  saves  much  breakage  and  loss  to  the 
retailer," 


184  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

"  My  last  crop  of  winter  celery,"  writes  Solon  P. 
Powell  of  Hancock  county,  Ohio,  *'  yielded  about 
1,200  dozen  to  the  acre,  and  sold  in  the  local  market 
for  30  cents  a  dozen.  The  stalks  are  put  up  in 
bunches  of  12  each  and  delivered  to  the  grocers  in 
our  town,  where  there  is  no  market  house.  Gen- 
erally the  crop  is  finished  by  January  15.  Early 
celery  is  taken  direct  from  the  field  and  the  winter 
crop  is  first  trenched  until  ready  for  use. 

"  Winter  celery  is  stored  in  earth  trenches  and 
in  cellars  where  there  is  no  danger  of  freezing. 
Earth  is  used  out  of  doors  and  straw  in  the  cellar. 
All  the  culls  are  sold,  the  demand  is  so  great.  The 
trimmings  are  fed  to  cows  and  chickens.  Butter 
needs  no  coloring  matter  when  cows  eat  celery 
leaves  when  fed  green,  as  trimmed." 

"  We  have  secured  2,400  dozen  salable  heads  to 
the  acre,  but  usually  count  upon  2,000  dozen,"  says 
B.  B.  Overhiser.  "  These  we  ship  by  express,  re- 
tail at  35  cents,  or  wholesale  for  28  cents.  In  car- 
load lots  we  sell  at  20  cents  a  dozen.  Our  boxes 
hold  six  to  12  dozen.  Most  of  our  celery  is  mar- 
keted by  November  15,  but  frequently  we  hold 
some  in  storage  for  Thanksgiving.  For  winter  use 
we  put  the  stalks  in  cold  frames,  bank  with  earth, 
and  cover  to  keep  out  the  frost.  We  usually  re- 
quire about  5  pounds  of  seed,  which  costs  about  $2 
a  pound.  Most  of  our  surplus  young  plants  are 
sold  in  March." 

"Among  the  varieties  I  like  the  White  Plume 
for  early,"  writes  Frank  S.  Wells  of  Michigan.  "  The 
plants  grow  rapidly  and  are  easily  blanched.  In 
the  fall  the  stalks  and  leaves  become  white  without 
earthing  up,  but  they  are  improved  by  banking. 
The  variety  does  not  keep  as  well  as  some  other 
kinds,  however. 


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THE  VEGETABLE   GARDEN  I85 

"  The  Golden  Self-Blanching  is  not  as  early  as 
the  White  Plume,  but  it  is  superior  in  quality.  It 
is  readily  blanched,  becoming  a  clear  golden  color, 
both  stalk  and  leaf;  but  it  is  a  dwarf  in  its  habit 
of  growth  and  should  have  rich  ground  and  care  to 
be  satisfactory.     However,  it  is  well  liked. 

"  The  Golden  Rose  is  a  sport  of  the  Golden  Self- 
Blanching.  I  tried  it  last  year,  but  it  was  not 
satisfactory. 

"  For  winter  celery  I  grew  last  year  the  French 
Success.  It  is  a  much  more  vigorous  grower  than 
the  others  mentioned,  and  seems  to  stand  dry 
weather  better.  It  is  slow  to  blanch,  but  is  good 
when  it  is  at  last  ready  for  use." 

STORING  CELERY 

Celery  will  stand  repeated  frosts  without  in- 
jury, but  it  is  ruined  if  it  is  once  frozen.  Hence  it 
must  be  stored  for  the  winter  before  too  cold 
weather  sets  in.  C.  O.  Ormsbee  of  Washington 
county,  Vermont,  says :  "  I  have  tried  a  great 
many  methods  of  keeping  it  through  the  winter, 
none  of  which  has  been  perfectly  satisfactory,  but  I 
have  had  by  far  the  best  success  with  the  following 
method : 

"  I  make  a  box  i  foot  deep  and  4  feet  wide  and  as 
long  as  may  be  necessary  or  convenient.  This  I 
place  where  it  is  to  remain  and  select  a  location 
where  the  temperature  will  be  as  near  50  degrees 
as  possible,  and  where  there  will  be  just  barely  light 
enough  to  enable  one  to  read. 

"  I  put  a  layer  of  sandy  loam  or  rich  garden  soil 
3  inches  deep  in  the  box  and  saturate  it  thoroughly 
with  water,  pouring  on  all  that  the  earth  will  con- 
tain and  perhaps  a  little  more.     I  allow  the  celery 


l86  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

to  remain  in  the  trenches  as  long  as  I  dare  risk  the 
danger  of  freezing.  Then  I  dig  it,  strip  oflf  the 
outer  worthless  leaves,  and  set  the  roots  well  in  the 
wet  earth  in  the  box,  crowding  the  bunches  as  close 
together  as  possible.  In  this  condition  the  celery 
will  take  root  and  grow  sufBciently  to  last  through 
the  winter  or  at  least  longer  than  if  stored  in  any 
other  manner." 

According  to  Alexander  Huth  of  Hampden 
county,  Massachusetts,  "  Celery  seed  for  the  early 
supply  should  be  sown  broadcast  about  February 
15  in  a  moderately  heated  hotbed,  or  in  shallow 
boxes  filled  with  good  garden  loam  lightly  pressed 
down.  Cover  the  seed  with  soil  about  one-eighth 
inch  deep  and  press  it  down  firmly.  Set  the  boxes 
(if  they  are  used)  in  the  house  near  a  sunny  win- 
dow where  the  temperature  averages  about  70 
degrees  and  water  freely.  A  single  hotbed  sash 
3  feet  wide  and  6  feet  long  is  large  enough  to  start 
20,000  plants.  After  the  second  or  third  leaves 
have  appeared  the  plant  should  be  transplanted  in 
other  boxes  or  put  in  moderately  heated  hotbed  or 
a  cold  frame  that  may  be  covered  on  cold  nights. 

!'  Set  the  plants  about  i  inch  apart  in  the  row 
and  3  inches  between  rows,  and  should  the  first  two 
or  three  days  after  transplanting  be  very  bright  and 
warm,  a  little  shading  during  the  middle  of  the  day 
will  be  advisable. 

"  After  the  plants  have  made  a  growth  of  5  to  6 
inches  they  should  be  set  out  of  doors  in  a  well- 
manured  and  thoroughly  prepared  soil.  In  the 
home  garden  where  space  is  generally  limited,  the 
young  plants  can  be  set  in  well-prepared  rows  5  or 
6  inches  apart  in  the  row  between  some  early  crop, 
such  as  early  peas,  spinach  or  radishes," 


THE   VEGETABLE   GARDEN  1 87 

CHIVES 

This  hardy  little  onion-like  plant  grows  in  tHick 
tufts  from  small  oval  bulbs,  scarcely  larger  than  a 
hazel  nut.  The  hollow,  abundant  grasslike  leaves 
are  used  for  seasoning  soups,  stews,  salads,  etc. 
The  plants  are  propagated  by  dividing  the  tufts  and 
planting  them  in  ordinary  garden  soil.  Chives  are 
often  used  for  edging  beds,  partly  because  of  their 
pretty  green  leaves  and  also  because  their  purplisK 
flowers  are  very  attractive  in  the  late  spring  or 
early  summer. 

COLLARD 

The  Georgia  collard,  extensively  grown  in  the 
south  for  greens,  is  a  loose-leaved  variety  of  cab- 
bage. The  term  collard  is  more  or  less  loosely  ap- 
plied to  young  cabbages  that  have  not  formed 
heads.  Seed  is  sown  in  midsummer  from  June  to 
August  for  succession  and  the  plants  transplanted 
to  rows  of  30  inches  apart  and  I  foot  apart  between 
the  plants. 

When  properly  blanched,  the  collard  is  sweeter 
and  more  delicate  than  northern  grown  cabbage. 
Cultivation  is  practically  the  same  as  for  cabbage. 
Blanching  is  done  by  tying  the  leaves  up  in  some- 
what the  same  way  as  the  leaves  are  tied  over  heads 
of  cauliflower. 

CORN— SWEET 

"The  man  who  grows  sweet  corn  for  market 
usually  appreciates  the  possibilities  of  a  continuous 
crop  fresh  from  the  field  from  early  July  to  Oc- 
tober," says  Prof.  V.  H.  Davis  of  Franklin  county, 


l88  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

Ohio.  "  I  have  grown  this  crop  for  home  use  and 
in  a  small  way  for  local  markets  for  years,  and  the 
methods  employed  may  be  suggestive,  and,  per- 
haps, profitably  followed  by  others. 

"  While  sweet  corn  will  grow  well  on  almost  any 
type  of  soil  containing  a  fair  amount  of  fertility,  I 
prefer  some  elevation  and  a  southern  exposure,  with 
soil  somewhat  sandy  or  slightly  gravelly  for  the 
first  crop.  Such  a  soil  will  dry  out  and  warm  up 
early,  and  can  be  broken  and  thoroughly  prepared 
before  planting  time. 

"  I  usually  make  the  first  planting  of  Early  Cory 
during  the  first  warm  spell  after  the  middle  of  April, 
and  use  plenty  of  seed.  If  the  crop  escapes  the 
late  frosts,  I  will  secure  corn  for  home  use  or  for 
market  from  ten  days  to  two  weeks  earlier  than 
my  neighbors.  If  the  frost  catches  it  I  have  lost 
only  a  little  seed  and  some  labor.  The  patch  is 
immediately  replanted  and  I  still  have  corn  as  early 
as  my  neighbors,  and  usually  before.  A  liberal  ap- 
plication of  a  complete  fertilizer  on  rather  thin 
land,  high  in  nitrogen  in  some  quickly  available 
form,  will  usually  give  good  returns  in  size,  quality, 
and  earliness  of  ears. 

"  On  good  soil  an  application  of  nitrate  of  soda 
along  the  rows  and  worked  into  the  soil  just  after 
the  corn  is  well  up  has  given  better  and  larger  ears 
from  four  days  to  a  week  earlier  than  was  secured 
without  its  use.  With  this  first  planting  I  usually 
plant  pumpkins,  which  generally  prove  decidedy 
profitable  in  themselves.  All  early  sorts  can  be 
planted  close  together.  I  prefer  rows  about  30 
inches  apart  and  two  or  three  stalks  in  hills  from 
18  to  24  inches  apart  in  the  rows.  The  later  sorts 
are  planted  the  usual  distance. 


THE   VEGETABLE   GARDEN  I89 

"About  May  i  a  planting  of  Country  Gentle- 
man, Stowell's  Evergreen,  or  Columbus  Market  is 
made,  and  at  intervals  of  about  ten  days  two  or 
three  more  plantings  are  made.  The  last  planting 
usually  follows  early  potatoes,  and  should  be  made 
by  July  20.  For  this  crop  I  plant  Early  Cory,  or 
some  of  the  early  sorts.  If  early  frosts  do  not 
come  this  crop  will  be  ready  for  use  during  the 
latter  half  of  September  or  the  first  part  of  October, 
and  not  only  finds  a  welcome  on  the  home  table, 
but  a  ready  sale  upon  the  market.  A  few  years 
ago  I  sold  nearly  $40  worth  in  October.  We  find 
a  ready  sale  for  the  early  and  the  late  crops  in 
small  towns  of  1,000  to  5,000  inhabitants,  but  for 
the  main  crop  the  larger  cities  must  be  looked  to 
for  a  market.  If  the  stover  is  cut  as  soon  as  the 
corn  is  pulled  it  makes  a  splendid  feed  for  all  kinds 
of  farm  stock.  In  this  vicinity  the  very  early  and 
very  late  crops  usually  bring  from  10  to  15  cents  a 
dozen;   the  larger  markets  from  15  to  25  cents." 

''  I  have  been  interested  in  growing  sweet  corn 
for  the  past  six  years,"  writes  D.  L.  Collins  of 
Genesee  county.  New  York.  "  Evergreen  and  early 
Minneapolis  have  been  satisfactory  varieties.  All 
early  maturing  varieties  do  well  here.  My  family 
prefer  Metropolitan  for  table  use  to  any  other.  My 
soil  is  of  a  sandy  loam  and  vv^e  grow  for  home  use 
only.  We  usually  plant  corn  on  the  same  land  two 
years  in  succession.  Our  garden  plot  is  prepared 
after  the  usual  manner,  but  stable  manure  is  kept 
12  to  18  months  in  a  sort  of  compost  heap  until 
thoroughly  rotted  before  putting  upon  the  garden." 

*'  For  nine  years,"  writes  John  H.  Taylor  of  Mid- 
dlesex county.  New  Jersey,  "  we  have  averaged 
5,000  ears  of  sweet  corn  and  sold  the  crop  for  $1  a 
hundred.    Each  year  we  plant  from  one  to  four  acres, 


190  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

and  have  found  that  Cosmopolitan  for  early  and 
Stowell's  Evergreen  or  Burpee's  White  Evergreen 
for  late  give  the  best  results.  Generally  the  crop 
is  shipped  in  barrels,  sometimes  to  New  York,  but 
usually  to  our  local  market,  where  the  sale  is,  as 
a  rule,  satisfactory.  What  few  culls  we  have  are 
fed  to  pigs,  and  the  stover  to  cattle. 

"  The  soil  is  a  sandy  loam.  No  special  crop  rota- 
tion is  practiced,  although  the  same  land  is  not 
cropped  with  corn  oftener  than  once  in  four  years. 
Being  a  truck  farm,  it  is  inconvenient  to  practice 
ordinary  crop  rotation.  About  360  pounds  to  the 
acre  of  3-6-8  commercial  fertilizer  is  used.  This 
costs  $31  a  ton.  It  is  applied  2  to  4  inches  from 
the  hill  at  planting  time,  or  immediately  after. 

"  Early  in  April  the  land  is  plowed,  and  until  the 
seed  is  sown,  is  harrowed  to  get  it  in  fine  condition. 
As  soon  as  the  season  will  permit,  we  plant  by 
hand  in  check  rows  3  feet  or  3  feet  10  inches  apart. 
Usually  the  latter  distance  is  the  more  profitable. 
Four  or  five  days  after  planting,  a  weeder  is  run 
through  the  field,  and  as  soon  as  we  can  see  the 
rows  a  one-horse  cultivator  is  started.  At  the  third 
cultivation  a  two-horse  riding  cultivator  is  em- 
ployed as  long  as  we  can  get  over  the  corn. 

"  Sometimes  we  use  nitrate  of  soda  as  a  top-' 
dressing  during  the  latter  part  of  summer,  so  as  to 
force  the  plants  a  little.  About  a  tablespoonful  is 
applied  a  few  inches  from  the  hill  and  then  cul- 
tivated in." 

CORN  AFTER  STRAWBERRIES 

In  the  fruit  section  of  Atlantic  county.  New 
Jersey,  corn  is  not  a  popular  crop.  The  soil  is  sand 
or  gravel,  somewhat  leachy  and  often  dry.     Corn 


THE   VEGETABLE   GARDEN  I9I 

requires  an  abundance  of  plant  food  and  moisture, 
and  on  these  light  soils  is  very  exhausting.  J.  E. 
Homa,  however,  has  given  much  attention  to  grow- 
ing corn,  and  each  year  puts  in  six  or  seven  acres. 
His  corn  land  is  low^  and  has  plenty  of  moisture;  it 
is  rotated  in  grass,  strawberries,  and  corn,  grass, 
like  corn,  being  an  unusual  crop  in  his  locality. 

''  Strawberries  are  picked  two  years.  The  beds 
are  fertilized  with  600  or  700  pounds  of  fertilizer 
each  year,  applied  early  in  the  spring.  The  two- 
year-old  beds  are  not  cultivated  in  the  spring,  and 
the  entire  surface  becomes  covered  with  a  sod  of 
grass  and  strawberry  plants.  After  picking, 
usually  about  June  15,  the  land  is  plowed  about  6 
inches  deep,  broadcasted  with  700  pounds  of  fer- 
tilizer, costing  about  $28  a  ton,  harrowed  until  fine 
and  marked  out  in  rows  about  4  feet  apart  each 
way.  The  land  is  not  furrowed  out  for  planting, 
but  a  man  makes  a  little  hole  with  a  spade,  drops 
the  grain  in  it  and  covers  it  with  the  foot,  doing  all 
the  work  quickly  and  at  one  operation. 

"  The  field  is  then  repeatedly  worked  with  a 
weeder  until  the  corn  is  several  inches  high  and 
then  cultivated  every  week  or  ten  days  as  long  as 
a  horse  can  get  through.  Generally,  it  is  hoed 
once,  but  wath  a  careful  man  to  cultivate  little  hoe- 
ing is  needed.  The  variety  is  a  hybrid  of  yellow 
dent  of  local  selection,  maturing  in  about  no 
days." 

This  practice  will  furnish  a  valuable  hint  for 
raisers  of  sweet  corn.  Such  quick-growing  varie- 
ties as  the  Corys  and  the  Crosbys  should  prove 
very  profitable  where  there  is  a  good  market,  and 
even  some  of  the  slower  growing  sorts,  such  as 
Country  Gentleman,  should  be  made  to  pay  where 
the  seasons  are  not  too  short. 


192  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

CORN— POP 

Concerning  popcorn,  C.  J.  Richardson  of  Lake 
county,  Ohio,  writes :  '*  I  do  not  know  of  any  farm 
crop  that  is  as  constant  and  steady  in  demand  as 
popcorn.  The  price  has  remained  about  the  same 
one  year  with  another  for  the  past  15  years.  I  have 
averaged  about  a  ton  of  popcorn  each  year,  and 
have  no  difficulty  in  selHng  it  at  a  good  round  figure. 
Our  soil  seems  to  be  well  adapted  to  this  crop.  We 
plant  as  early  as  possible,  on  ground  on  which  we 
have  grown  Hubbard  squashes  the  year  previous. 

"  We  cultivate  regularly  so  as  to  keep  the  corn 
free  from  weeds.  We  use  a  hoe  very  little.  We 
usually  plant  by  hand,  using  a  hoe,  dropping  three 
grains  in  a  hill,  3  feet  apart,  rows  running  both 
ways.  We  get  the  best  results  this  way.  We 
never  cut  until  the  corn  is  thoroughly  ripe.  Pop- 
corn stalks  make  an  extra  fine  fodder.  Farmers 
in  planting  popcorn  should  be  sure  to  let  it  mature 
on  the  stalk  before  it  is  cut  or  husked.  We  husk 
it  about  six  weeks  after  it  is  cut  and  put  it  in  cribs 
especially  prepared  for  it,  and  it  is  left  in  these 
cribs  a  year  before  it  is  sold. 

**  To  sell  to  advantage  in  large  quantities  one  must 
be  very  careful,  as  there  are  many  sharks  in  the 
field,  who  will  take  advantage  of  one  if  he  is  not  on 
the  lookout.  If  popcorn  is  sold  at  retail,  one  must 
be  careful  that  it  is  well  cured  and  pops  regularly, 
otherwise  there  will  be  great  difficulty  in  selling  to 
the  same  individual  the  second  time.  I  usually  test 
thoroughly  by  popping  some,  and  then  know  ex- 
actly in  what  condition  it  is.  We  give  good,  round 
weight  or  measure,  and  are  careful  not  to  mis- 
represent our  corn.  In  this  way  our  trade  is  being 
built  up  regularly." 


THE   VEGETABLE   GARDEN  1 93 

CORN  SALAD 

Corn  salad  is  a  small  plant,  the  seed  of  which  is 
sown  in  fall  and  covered  with  straw  during  winter 
like  spinach  for  spring  use.  It  may  be  used  in  the 
autumn  or  in  spring,  as  desired,  as  a  salad  or  as 
greens.  Usually  it  is  broadcasted  in  beds  of  rich 
soil  and  given  an  occasional  top  dressing  of  nitrate 
of  soda.  It  is  scarcely  a  rival  of  spinach,  because 
it  does  not  grow  so  large  and  is  not  quite  so  fine 
flavored. 

CRESS 

Cress,  or  peppergrass,  is  a  pungent  salad,  which 
may  be  had  from  seed  within  three  weeks  of  sow- 
ing. It  is  planted  very  thickly  in  drills  and  clipped 
with  shears.  Rarely  does  it  grow  more  than  4  or  5 
inches  tall  before  running  to  seed;  if  cut  not  too 
close  to  the  ground,  two  or  three  cuttings  may  be 
made.  When  it  begins  to  flower  it  becomes  too 
strong  for  eating  as  a  salad.  Often  it  is  used  for 
making  greens  like  spinach. 

CUCUMBER 

A  deep,  rich  loam,  retentive  of  moisture,  is  best 
adapted  to  the  cucumber,  and  preferably  it  should 
be  well  exposed  to  the  sun.  Seed  should  be  planted 
only  after  the  ground  has  become  warm,  or,  for 
very  early  fruits,  on  sods  or  in  berry  boxes  in  the 
hotbed  and  transplanted  after  all  danger  of  frost 
has  passed.  For  outdoor  planting,  from  the  middle 
to  the  last  of  May  is  usual  in  the  north.  The  land 
is  laid  off  in  furrows  6  by  6  feet  and  a  shovelful  of 
well-rotted  manure  or  compost  placed  in  the  hills. 


194  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

About  a  dozen  seeds  are  planted  in  a  ring  at  each 
hill,  and  when  the  plants  have  become  sturdy  the 
poorest  ones  are  thinned  out,  leaving  two  to  four 
plants  to  the  hill.     Three  is  the  usual  number. 

For  table  use  cucumbers  are  gathered  while  still 
green,  but  almost  full  grown.  P^or  pickles  some  are 
gathered  when  very  small;  others  when  about 
one-third  to  one-half  grown.  There  is  considerable 
demand  for  the  small  size  at  pickle  factories.  For 
pickling  the  beds  should  be  gone  over  every  two  or 
three  days  so  the  fruits  will  not  be  large.  No 
cucumbers  should  be  allowed  to  go  to  seed  in  the 
pickle  field,  because  the  plants  immediately  begin 
to  die  oflf.  If  gathered  frequently,  young  cucum- 
bers can  be  secured  until  frost.  Cucumbers  are  fre- 
quently raised  by  the  acre  for  pickle  factories  which 
pay  a  stated  price  by  weight  or  by  number. 

For  home  use  small  cucumbers  may  be  stored  in 
salt  or  salt  brine  as  gathered.  A  common  formula 
is  7  pounds  of  salt  to  a  bushel  of  cucumbers  in  a 
brine.  When  packed  in  salt  the  cucumbers  shrivel. 
They  can  be  freshened  by  soaking  in  water  and 
then  putting  in  vinegar  for  making  pickles.  In  this 
way  they  can  be  kept  for  several  months,  but 
usually  they  deteriorate  during  the  spring  following 
harvest  unless  put  in  vinegar.  Probably  the  best 
known  variety  is  the  White  Spine. 

CUCUMBERS  ON  LONG  ISLAND 

According  to  the  late  C,  L.  Allen  of  Long  Island, 
**'  The  soil  that  suits  the  cucumber  best  is  a  lively, 
sandy  loam,  and  the  deeper  the  better.  A  light, 
sandy  soil,  if  shallow,  or  a  heavy  loam  or  clay,  had 
better  be  given  up  to  some  other  crop.  New  soil 
is   usually  considered   the   most   desirable,   and,   if 


THE   VEGETABLE   GARDEN  195 

Other  conditions  are  favorable,  it  is.  But  new  land 
alone  will  not  yield  profitable  returns,  however 
lavish  nature  may  have  been  in  its  preparation. 
The  most  profitable  crops  ever  grown  here  were 
from  a  lively,  deep  loam,  and  as  a  second  crop,  the 
first  being  early  peas.  As  soon  as  the  peas  were 
gathered  the  ground  was  cleared,  plowed  deeply, 
and  made  as  fine  as  the  disk  harrow  could  make  it. 
The  land  had  a  liberal  dressing  of  well-rotted 
manure  before  plowing. 

''  After  harrowing  the  ground  is  marked  out  with 
a  small  plow  in  rows  4  feet  apart  each  way.  At 
the  crossing  of  the  furrows,  which  marks  the 
hills,  a  shovelful  of  well-composted  manure  is 
worked  in  and  covered  slightly  with  soil.  From 
six  to  eight  seeds  are  dropped  in  a  hill.  A  small 
handful  of  complete  fertilizer, 'with  an  equal  amount 
of  nitrate  of  soda,  is  then  strewn  around  the  hill,  at 
the  rate  of  200  pounds  to  the  acre.  None  of  this 
manure  comes  within  3  inches  of  the  seeds.  Cover 
the  seeds  not  deeper  than  one-fourth  inch  with 
soil  made  fine  and  pressed  firmly  over  them  with 
the  hoe  or  the  feet.  This  completes  the  first  im- 
portant step  in  cultivation. 

'*  As  soon  as  the  first  two  leaves  appear  the  battle 
commences.  There  will  be  weeds  on  every  side, 
and  bugs  on  every  plant,  if  they  are  neglected ;  cul- 
tivation, however,  should  be  so  thorough  that  no 
weed  will  ever  show  itself.  A  cultivator  should 
go  over  the  ground  once  each  way,  before  the 
plants  appear,  and  just  as  the  weeds  break  through 
the  soil.  The  surface  should  be  stirred  frequently 
by  the  cultivator,  or  at  least  soon  after  every  rain. 
This  is  necessary  to  prevent  evaporation.  As  soon 
as  the  plants  are  nicely  growing,  and  thinned  out 
to  four  in  the  hill,  lay  aside  the  cultivator.     In  its 


196  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

place  use  a  fine  rake,  which  should  not  stir  the  soil 
deeper  than  i  inch ;  otherwise  the  damage  is  irrep- 
arable, as  the  roots  run  just  as  far  as  the  vines, 
and  to  cut  them  ofif  is  to  destroy  the  plant's  efifort 
to  reproduce.  It  would  be  just  as  good  policy  to 
cut  ofif  the  leaves  as  its  roots.  In  either  case  the 
damage  is  proportionate  to  the  amount  of  root 
breaking  done. 

"  The  plants  will  have  made  but  little  growth 
before  insect  enemies  appear,  and  a  constant  war- 
fare must  be  kept  up.  For  the  destruction  of  lice, 
tobacco  dust  is  generally  effective,  and  for  the 
striped  beetle  paris  green  in  very  small  quantities 
is  a  specific.  Before  the  plants  begin  to  flower, 
spraying  must  commence.  To  wait  until  blight 
begins  is  fatal ;  it  is  to  risk  the  crop.  Until  the 
crop  is  secured,  the  only  safe  way  is  to  spray  after 
every  hard  rain.  The  ends  of  the  vines  should  be 
pinched  ofif  soon  after  they  begin  to  flower,  to  en- 
courage growth  of  laterals,  which  produce  fruit. 

"  Some  Long  Island  growers  plant  every  fifth 
row,  running  east  and  west,  with  corn,  which  af- 
fords partial  shade.  They  assert  this  is  a  great 
benefit.  Most  cucumbers  grown  here  are  for  Ger- 
man pickles,  and  are  picked  when  4  to  5  inches  long. 
These  bring  about  50  per  cent  more  than  the  small 
ones,  which  are  put  up  in  bottles  with  vinegar. 
The  German  pickles  are  put  up  in  casks  with  dill 
and  weak  brine,  and  must  be  used  soon,  as  they  will 
not  keep  long.  Although  the  large  cucumbers 
bring  nearly  double  the  price  of  the  small  ones,  it 
is  a  question  whether  it  is  not  more  profitable  to 
grow  the  smaller  size,  because  of  the  greater  num- 
ber the  vines  will  produce. 

"  Intense  cultivation,  which  means  systematic 
cultivation,  is  profitable,  as  the  yield  is  from  300,000 


THE   VEGETABLE   GARDEN  197 

to  400,000  an  acre.  They  usually  bring  $1.50  a 
1,000.  Some  years  they  bring  double  that.  To  get 
$600  from  an  acre  one  must  work.  He  can  afford 
to.  A  man  must  go  over  his  field  of  cucumbers 
early  every  morning  regardless  of  the  weather,  or 
some  will  get  too  large.  The  picklers  do  not  like 
this.  But  more  than  that,  if  they  grow  too  large 
and  begin  to  turn  whitish  or  yellow,  the  plants  will 
think  the  object  of  reproduction  has  been  accom- 
plished and  will  cease  bearing.  On  the  other  hand, 
if  cucumbers  are  kept  constantly  cut  when  small, 
the  vines  will  continue  to  bear  for  a  longer  period." 

CUCUMBERS  FOR  PICKLING 

As  to  gathering  and  pickling  cucumbers,  H.  E. 
Colby  of  Iowa  writes:  "The  cucumber  harvest 
begins  about  August  i  and  continues  until  the  frost 
destroys  the  vines,  usually  about  October  i.  Dur- 
ing the  greater  part  of  this  time  the  entire  field 
must  be  picked  each  day  or  two.  The  cucumbers 
are  gathered  into  small  crates,  each  one  holding 
about  two  pecks.  These  crates  are  loaded  into  the 
wagons  and  taken  to  the  pickle  factories.  The 
picking  should  not  be  done  during  the  heated  part 
of  the  day,  if  it  is  possible  to  avoid  it,  because  if  the 
vines  are  disturbed  at  that  time  they  have  a  ten- 
dency to  wilt,  thus  injuring  the  yield  and  the  fruit. 

"  The  fruit  is  graded  according  to  size,  the  smaller 
ones  being  the  more  choice.  Anything  under  3  or 
4  inches  in  length  is  classed  as  first  grade.  These 
bring  the  best  price,  and  are  used  for  choice  bottle 
pickles,  and  for  the  higher  grade  bulk  pickles.  The 
choicest  of  the  first  grade  are  slender  and  average 
about  I  or  2  inches  in  length.  The  larger  ones, 
those  over  4  inches,  such  as  are  used  for  dill 
pickles,  are  second  grade  and  bring  a  smaller  price. 


198  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

They  run  a  much  smaller  number  to  the  bushel, 
are  much  easier  harvested  and  delivered,  and  natu- 
rally yield  more  pounds  to  the  acre  than  the  first 
grades,  so  the  difference  in  net  returns  is  not  great. 
Most  factories  will  use  only  a  limited  amount  of  the 
seconds,  thus  forcing  the  farmers  to  raise  the  first 
grade. 

"  To  undertake  to  estimate  a  yield  is  very  much 
like  guessing  on  a  horse  race.  One  can  always  be 
much  more  sure  of  his  statements  after  harvest.^ 
But  to  give  plenty  of  range  I  should  say  that  from 
100  to  500  bushels  to  the  acre  would  be  a  fair 
figure.  Of  course  there  may  be  fields  that  will 
not  come  up  to  100. 

"  If  a  man  contemplates  planting  a  cucumber 
crop  for  the  pickle  factory,  he  will  find  that  the  cul- 
tivation will  be  very  easy,  but  he  must  be  prepared 
for  a  rather  strenuous  job  of  harvesting.  How- 
ever, the  average  man  is  not  prone  to  complain 
because  his  harvest  is  large. 

''Cucumbers  may  be  pickled  at  home  almost  as 
well  as  in  the  factory.  The  process  is  simple  and 
can  be  easily  learned.  The  work  will,  of  course, 
be  on  a  smaller  scale,  but  the  profits  are  large  as 
soon  as  a  market  is  found  for  the  finished  product. 
The  same  system  of  picking  and  grading  prevails 
whether  the  pickling  is  done  in  the  factory  or  at 
home." 

EGGPLANT 

The  seed  of  this  plant  is  sown  earlier  than  tomato 
seed,  because  the  seedlings  are  rather  slow  grow- 
ing. Usually  it  is  started  in  the  hotbed  or  green- 
house and  planted  2  feet  apart  in  rows  3  feet  apart 
after  the  ground  is  thoroughly  warm  in  the  latter 
part  of  May  or  early  June.     Fruit  can  be  expected 


THE   VEGETABLE   GARDEN  199 

about  the  middle  to  last  of  August.  The  best 
varieties  are  New  York  Purple  and  Long  Purple, 
the  latter  being  the  earlier.  Management  in  the 
hotbed  and  in  the  field  is  the  same  as  for  tomato. 

SUCCESS  WITH  EGGPLANT 

"  On  May  i6  I  planted  about  one-third  acre  of 
eggplants,  or  about  1,200  plants,  on  a  rich  sandy- 
loam,"  writes  Charles  Black  of  Mercer  county,  New 
Jersey.  "  I  put  a  small  shovelful  of  well-decayed 
manure  under  each  plant.  The  seed  was  sown  in 
a  greenhouse  about  February  i.  The  plants  were 
transplanted  while  small  in  2-inch  pots.  When 
they  had  made  fair-sized  plants,  they  were  trans- 
planted again  in  4-inch  pots  and  grown  until  ready 
to  set  in  the  field.  They  had  constant  cultivation  up 
to  August  I.  We  began  cutting  July  14,  and  gath- 
ered 535  half-bushel  baskets,  or  about  6,500  eggs. 
These  sold  for  about  $210,  or  about  an  average  of 
40  cents  a  basket  in  local  markets.  The  price 
ranged  from  20  cents  to  $1.50  a  basket.  Owing  to 
extreme  drouth,  about  100  plants  yielded  but  little, 
being  too  close  to  a  row  of  trees.  There  were  no 
less  than  50  baskets  left  lying  on  the  ground  at  the 
end  of  the  season.  I  have  grown  eggplants  many 
years,  but  this  is  my  best  success." 

ENDIVE 

Endive  is  used  as  a  salad  during  the  late  fall  and 
winter.  It  resembles  dandelion  in  habit  and  growth 
and  has  a  similar  bitter  taste.  It  is  sown  and  man- 
aged in  the  same  way  as  lettuce.  For  early  sum- 
mer use  the  seed  is  planted  in  the  spring  and  for 
late  use  in  July.     Usually  the  leaves  are  blanched 


200  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

by  being-  tied  lightly  above  the  crowns  of  the  plants 
when  the  plants  are  nearly  full  grown.  About 
three  weeks  is  needed  for  this  process.  It  is  best 
that  the  plants  be  tied  only  in  small  numbers  at  a 
time  for  home  use,  because  the  hearts  are  likely  to 
rot  shortly  after  being  blanched,  particularly  in 
warm  weather.  At  the  approach  of  severe  cold 
weather  the  plants  may  be  set  in  boxes  in  a  cold 
cellar,  where  they  will  continue  to  produce  white 
leaves  until  mid-winter.  One  of  the  best  known 
varieties  is  Green  Curled. 

GARLIC 

Garlic  Is  grown  for  the  "  cloves  "  or  little  bulbs 
which  form  a  head  at  the  top  of  the  stems.  These 
are  inclosed  in  a  white  or  rose-colored  skin.  These 
cloves  are  planted  in  early  spring  like  onion  sets. 
Good  rich  soil  is  essential.  After  the  heads  are 
well  formed  these  are  gathered  with  long  stems  and 
woven  into  braids  for  drying  upon  pegs.  The 
cloves  are  used  for  flavoring. 

GROUND  CHERRY 

The  ground  cherry  resembles  the  tomato  in  many 
respects,  but  bears  its  small,  cherry-like  fruit  in  a 
husk.  The  fruits  are  used  for  preserves  and  sauces. 
When  once  planted,  the  plants  usually  supply 
abundant  seedlings  for  years  after  so  that  seed 
need  not  be  bought  more  than  once.  The  plant 
never  becomes  a  pest,  since  it  is  easily  destroyed. 
Cultivation  is  the  same  as  for  tomatoes,  except  that 
the  seed  is  sown  in  the  open  ground  about  the  latter 
part  of  April  or  early  in  May.  About  30  to  36 
inches  is  sufficient  distance  to  leave  between  plants. 


THE   VEGETABLE   GARDEN  20I 

HERBS 

No  home  garden  can  be  complete  without  herbs. 
These  supply  a  variety  of  flavors  which  can  be 
secured  from  no  other  plants.  They  are  especially 
useful  for  seasoning  soups,  stews,  salads,  and  dress- 
ings. They  may  be  used,  therefore,  fresh  or  dried. 
If  dried,  they  must  be  kept  in  glass  so  that  their 
flavors  may  not  be  lost  in  the  air.  Preserving  in 
v^inegar  is  also  a  good  way  to  keep  them.  The 
most  popular  are  parsley  (which  see),  sage,  sweet 
basil,  sweet  marjoram,  spearmint,  summer  savory, 
thyme,  winter  savory,  and  balm.  Little  need  be 
said  concerning  their  cultivation,  as  they  do  well 
with  almost  no  attention,  but  a  few  remarks  may 
be  suggestive. 

Balm,  a  perennial,  grows  about  i8  inches  tall. 
Seeds  are  sown  in  the  spring  where  the  plants  are 
to  stand  from  year  to  year. 

Sage,  a  perennial,  grows  readily,  about  i6  inches 
high,  from  seed  sown  in  early  spring.  It  is  hardy 
and  comes  up  well  for  several  years  in  the  same 
place. 

Sweet  Basil,  an  annual,  about  I  foot  high,  is 
sown  indoors  during  March  or  April  and  trans- 
planted when  the  weather  has  become  mild,  or  it 
may  be  sown  in  open  ground  in  the  early  spring. 

Sweet  Marjoram,  a  perennial,  is  generally  grown 
as  an  annual  from  seed  sown  in  the  early  spring 
in  any  good  garden  soil. 

Spearmint,  a  perennial,  is  most  readily  propagated 
from  its  creeping  rootstocks.  It  does  best  in  moist 
soil.     Sometimes  it  becomes  troublesome  as  a  weed. 

Summer  Savory,  an  annual,  about  lo  inches  high, 
is  grown  from  seed  sown  in  early  spring  where  the 
plants  are  to  remain.     It  may  be  transplanted. 


202  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

Thyme,  a  perennial,  Is  grown  from  seed  sown  in- 
doors or  out  in  early  spring. 

Winter  Savory,  a  perennial,  12  to  16  inches  high, 
is  cultivated  like  summer  savory.  It  is  not  hardy 
in  the  north  unless  protected. 

HORSE-RADISH 

William  F.  Miller  of  Camden  county,  New  Jer- 
sey, says :  "  Horse-radish  is  started  by  setting  out 
roots  as  early  in  the  spring  as  the  ground  will  per- 
mit. In  taking  up  horse-radish  there  are  always 
several  small  roots  radiating  from  the  main  or  tap 
root,  used  largely  for  grating.  These  small  roots 
are  cut  off  and  used  for  starting  new  beds.  Roots 
as  large  as  a  lead  pencil,  and  larger,  are  taken  off 
and  used  to  good  advantage.  They  are  cut  into 
lengths  4  to  6  inches  and  taper  at  the  top  or  thick 
end;  that  is,  they  are  cut  on  a  slant  and  not  square 
off. 

"  These  are  put  in  the  ground  so  the  thick  end  is 
upward,  and  2  or  3  inches  deep.  This  is  to  prevent 
any  water  from  accumulating  on  the  end  of  the 
plant,  thus  causing  decay.  Horse-radish  delights  in 
a  rich  soil  and  is  ready  for  market  by  October.  It 
can  be  left  all  winter  and  marketed  in  the  spring  if 
desired. 

"  I  know  of  but  one  variety,  and  it  is  as  hardy 
as  dock  when  once  started.  Usually  two  to  five 
plants  can  be  cut  from  each  root  during  harvest, 
besides  having  roots  for  sale.  I  started  with  1,500 
plants  and  in  three  years  set  out  40,000  besides  sell- 
ing a  considerable  number.  The  cost  of  horse- 
radish sets  or  plants  ranges  from  $2.50  to  $3  a  thou- 
sand roots.  When  set  out,  the  rows  should  be  about 
3  feet  apart  and  plants  about  15  in  the  row," 


THE  VEGETABLE   GARDEN  203 

KALE 

Kale  is  cultivated  in  practically  the  same  way  as 
cabbage  until  the  plants  are  set  in  the  field;  then 
it  is  managed  like  turnip.  The  leaves  are 
used  for  greens.  As  a  rule,  they  are  coarse  flavored 
and  stringy.  They  do  not  compare  with  spinach 
or  Savoy  cabbage  as  greens.  Their  market  season 
is  late  fall  or  early  winter. 

KOHL-RABI 

Kohl-rabi  is  grown  for  its  thickened  stem,  which 
looks  like  a  turnip  growing  above  ground.  For 
early  summer  use  it  is  preferred  to  early  turnips 
in  many  sections.  It  should  be  sown  like  turnips 
where  it  has  to  mature,  and  should  be  used  while 
young  and  tender.  When  it  grows  old  it  becomes 
tough  and  woody.  Among  the  best  known  varieties 
are  White  and  Purple  Vienna. 

LEEK 

The  leek  is  managed  like  the  onion  and  upon  the 
same  kinds  of  soils.  It  is  grown  for  its  leaves  and 
stems  which  later  are  usually  blanched  toward  the 
close  of  the  season,  by  having  the  earth  drawn  up 
around  them.  Commonly  the  seed  is  sown  in  early 
spring  and  the  seedlings  transplanted  about  the 
beginning  of  summer.  The  plants  are  set  in 
shallow  trenches  so  as  to  allow  of  each  blanching 
by  drawing  earth  up  toward  them.  They  are  stored 
in  the  same  way  as  celery  and  marketed  like  spring 
onions.  The  Large  Flag  is  one  of  the  best  known 
sorts,  Scotch  Flag,  or  Musselburgh,  is  also  a  favored 
variety. 


204  MAKING   HORTICULTURE  PAY 

LETTUCE 

Of  all  salad  plants,  lettuce  is  probably  the  most 
universally  popular.  It  is  rarely  used  for  any 
other  purpose  than  for  salads.  Its  cultivation  may 
be  carried  on  by  means  of  hotbeds,  cold  frames, 
and  the  open  ground  throughout  the  whole  year. 
The  greatest  demand  for  it  is  in  the  spring  when 
the  appetite  craves  something  fresh  and  succulent. 
Seeds  are  frequently  started  under  glass  in  Febru- 
ary or  March  and  the  seedlings  transplanted  into  the 
flats,  and  placed  in  cold  frames  for  hardening  off 
so  as  to  be  transplanted  to  the  open  ground  as  soon 
as  the  spring  opens.  Successions  may  be  made  by 
sowing  seed  in  the  open  ground  at  the  time  when 
seedlings  are  transplanted  and  at  intervals  of  ten 
days  thereafter  until  May. 

For  home  use,  it  is  essential  that  only  a  small 
area  be  planted  at  a  time,  because  the  plants  quiclcly 
run  to  seed  in  hot  weather,  and  as  soon  as  the  seed 
stalk  begins  to  grow  the  leaves  become  too 
bitter  to  be  relished  as  salad.  Frequently  lettuce 
is  grown  between  rows  and  plants  of  early  cab- 
bage and  cauliflower,  so  as  to  occupy  the  space  and 
thus  get  two  crops  off  the  same  land  with  almost 
no  additional  work.  The  lettuce  is  removed  long 
before  the  other  crop  needs  the  ground.  Plants 
should  not  stand  closer  together  than  4  inches  in 
the  row.  It  is  customary,  in  home  gardens,  to  sow 
rather  thinly,  and  to  thin  out  the  little  plants  when 
they  are  about  2  inches  high,  using  the  thinnings 
for  a  first  salad  and  leaving  the  plants  about  2 
inches  apart  for  about  two  weeks  until  they  begin 
to  crowd  again,  then  removing  each  alternate  one. 
Like  all  crops  grown  for  their  leaves  lettuce  needs 
abundant    nitrogenous    food    in   the    soil    and   will 


THE   VEGETABLE   GARDEN  20$ 

respond  well  and  quickly  to  light  surface  dressings 
of  nitrate  of  soda. 

There  are  several  classes  of  lettuce,  the  principal 
of  v^^hich  are  heading,  cutting,  and  cos.  The  head- 
ing varieties  form  heads  resembling  cabbage.  The 
cutting  sorts  do  not  form  heads.  They  have  loose 
leaves.  The  cos  varieties  are  especially  adapted  to 
withstand  hot  weather;  they  produce  elongated 
heads  of  very  superior  quality.  Then  there  are 
special  varieties  in  each  of  the  first  two  classes 
adapted  for  forcing  and  for  outdoor  planting. 
Among  the  best  known  heading  varieties  are  White 
Tennis  Ball  (or  Boston  Market),  Hanson,  and 
Black-Seeded  Tennis  Ball.  Among  the  cutting 
varieties  are  Black-Seeded  Simpson  and  Grand 
Rapids.  For  summer  use  Salamander  is  a  good 
heading  sort.     All  of  the  cos  varieties  are  good. 

George  Tong  of  Hennepin  county,  IMinnesota, 
grows  head  lettuce  in  hotbeds  as  follows :  "  Plants 
were  started  about  March  I  in  an  ordinary  hotbed 
and  were  well  aired  to  get  hardy  plants.  The  hotbed 
into  which  they  were  transplanted  was  made  the 
last  week  in  March,  making  a  bed  of  hot  manure 
8  feet  wide  and  i8  inches  deep  on  top  of  the 
ground.  Frames  were  made  as  for  ordinary  cold 
frames,  except  that  they  were  deeper,  i8  inches 
back  and  lo  inches  front. 

"  These  frames  were  set  on  the  manure.  After 
the  mass  had  settled  well  and  had  been  trampled 
evenly  5  inches  of  rich  soil  was  put  on.  This  was 
covered  with  about  I  inch  of  rotted  sheep  manure 
and  thoroughly  mixed  with  the  soil.  The  bed  was 
then  marked  so  plants  would  stand  8  inches  each 
way,  putting  in  about  40  plants  to  the  sash. 

''  Our  sashes  are  made  3x6  feet,  using  2  x  2-inch 
stuff,  with  a  crossbar  of  the  same  in  the  middle. 


2o6  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

Common  sheeting,  costing  8  cents  a  yard,  was 
tacked  on  this  frame  with  large  headed  tacks. 
Plants  were  set  out  the  last  day  of  March,  and  it 
seemed  as  if  to  test  the  value  of  the  plan  a  cold 
snap  came;  on  the  morning  of  April  2  the  ther- 
mometer stood  at  16  degrees  above  zero.  Cabbage 
and  cauliflower  plants  set  in  a  well-protected  cold 
frame  were  frozen  badly,  while  this  bed,  with  only 
a  slight  protection  of  wild  hay,  came  through  with- 
out a  bit  of  frost. 

"  The  sashes  were  removed  every  day,  unless  It 
snowed  or  the  thermometer  stood  below  40  degrees, 
but  were  covered  every  night  where  there  was  dan- 
ger of  frost.  Scarlet  Globe  radishes  were  sown  be- 
tween each  pair  of  rows,  and  were  sold  at  a  good 
profit  ten  days  before  we  could  pull  from  outdoors. 
A  few  sashes  were  planted  to  Grand  Rapids  lettuce, 
which  was  ready  to  cut  May  20,  while  plants  set 
outdoors  were  not  ready  until  two  weeks  later. 

LETTUCE   VARIETIES 

"  In  1886  Peter  Henderson  wrote  that  he  had  never 
seen  cos  lettuce  in  the  markets.  Now  there  is  not 
a  day  during  the  season  when  it  is  absent,  and  there 
is  not  a  first-class  city  restaurant  that  considers  its 
menu  complete  without  romaine,  as  the  class  is 
popularly  known.  This  is  due  solely  to  the  merits 
of  the  varieties  which  have  long  been  justly  popular 
in  home  gardens.  They  are  more  tender  and  more 
crisp  than  ordinary  lettuces,  and  have  more  elon- 
gated heads,  being  usually  conical,  and  from  8  to 
10  inches  high  and  5  or  6  inches  in  diameter. 

"  Like  other  varieties  of  lettuce,  the  seed  may  be 
sown  in  hotbeds  or  cold  frames,  or  in  the  open 
ground,  either  for  transplanting  or  thinning  where 
sown.     The    soil    should    be    well    supplied    with 


THE   VEGETABLE   GARDEN  207 

humus  and  nitrogenous  plant  food.  Most  of  the 
varieties  are  improved  by  having  the  outer  leaves 
drawn  together  and  tied  loosely  over  the  head,  but 
some  varieties  are  said  to  be  compact  enough  to 
render  this  tying  unnecessary.  It  is  characteristic 
of  the  cos  varieties  to  become  annual  residents  in 
the  gardens  of  those  v^ho  give  them  a  trial. 

"  Lettuce  is  easy  to  grow.  For  first  early  I  would 
make  a  bed  in  the  fall  and  cover  it  with  about  one- 
half  inch  of  well-rotted  manure.  About  February 
I  I  sow  the  seed  broadcast,  not  too  thick,  and  draw 
the  back  of  the  rake  over  it  just  to  hide  the  seeds 
from  the  birds.  If  sown  in  rows  and  covered  with 
soil  the  seed  will  not  likely  come  up.  One  great 
hindrance  in  getting  good  lettuce  is  sowing  seed 
too  thickly.  By  transplanting  some  good  plants, 
about  the  first  dry  spell  in  April  or  laier,  and  about 
5  or  6  inches  each  way,  and  cultivating,  I  get  fine 
lettuce.  The  best  kind  is  a  matter  of  choice.  I 
have  had  the  best  success  with  the  Grand  Rapids, 
but  it  is  not  a  head  lettuce." 

"  Last  season,  under  rather  unfavorable  condi- 
tions, I  grew  some  of  the  finest  lettuce  I  have  ever 
seen,"  writes  John  E.  Vail  of  Decatur  county,  Iowa. 
"  This  was  secured  by  using  rectangular  troughs  in 
i6-foot  lengths  about  24  inches  at  the  base  and  18 
inches  high  and  wide  at  the  top.  They  were  cov- 
ered with  cheesecloth  so  arranged  that  it  could  be 
quickly  lifted  from  the  rows.  This  method  gave 
most  marked  results  over  open  air  growth.  It  is 
cheaply  applied  and  will  hasten  the  development 
seven  to  20  days." 

LETTUCE  GROWING  UNDER  GLASS 

"A  greenhouse  and  a  system  of  cold  frames  in 
some  well-sheltered  place  will  be  found  a  profitable 


208  MAKING   HORTICULTURE  PAY 

investment,  the  area  of  glass  subject  to  circum- 
stances. My  experience  for  some  years,"  writes 
Frank  S.  Miller  of  Franklin  county,  Ohio,  "  has 
been  with  a  forcing  house  or  houses  of  10,000 
square  feet  and  400  cold  frame  sashes  3x6  feet. 
The  forcing  houses  are  used  exclusively  for  vege- 
tables. About  September  i  lettuce  is  sown  in  one 
of  the  cold  frames  and  transplanted  1x2  inches 
apart.  As  soon  as  it  has  become  well  established 
with  good  fibrous  roots,  it  is  transferred  to  the 
forcing  house,  having  been  previously  fertilized 
with  well-decomposed  manure,  or,  in  its  absence, 
fresh  horse  manure,  spread  evenly  over  the  bed, 
which  is  then  given  a  good  watering.  Either 
turned  under  carefully  has  given  satisfactory  re- 
sults, and  will  serve  for  two  crops.  The  distance 
apart  in  permanent  beds  is  8  x  8  inches. 

''  The  best  variety  for  winter  forcing,  in  my  ex- 
perience, is  Grand  Rapids.  If  possible,  never  let 
the  plants  wilt  after  setting  in  permanent  beds. 
After  48  hours  root  formation  will  have  commenced. 
Afterward  water  freely.  As  soon  as  the  surface 
soil  is  in  proper  condition  loosen  it  up  well,  as  a 
fine,  well-pulverized  soil  prevents  rot  and  also 
lengthens  the  intervals  several  days  between 
watering. 

"  Supposing  the  gardener  to  keep  on  hand  a  con- 
stant supply  of  young  plants,  repeat  the  above  pro- 
gram until  the  house  is  full.  In  five  or  six  weeks 
the  first  planting  should  be  ready  for  market.  As 
soon  as  a  bed  or  portion  of  a  bed  is  cut,  work 
the  soil  over  and  replant.  Three  crops  can  be 
grown,  making  the  returns  from  a  house  very  re- 
munerative. We  use  Grand  Rapids,  a  hardy  and 
satisfactory  variety,  in  preference  to  head  lettuce. 
The  latter  kinds  are  more  susceptible  to  rot,  and, 


THE  VEGETABLE   GARDEN  209 

nnless  conditions  are  favorable,  do  not  always  head 
well.  This  in  brief  is  the  system  practiced  by  most 
growers  in  the  vicinity  of  Columbus." 

MUSTARD 

Mustard  is  a  quick-growing  salad  which  may  be 
ready  for  the  table  within  three  weeks  of  sowing. 
It  is  managed  precisely  the  same  as  garden  cress, 
or  peppergrass. 

OKRA,  OR  GUMBO 

Okra  is  cultivated  for  its  green  pods  or  its  im- 
mature seeds.  The  former  are  sliced  and  used  in 
soups ;  the  latter  are  cooked  like  peas.  It  is  largely 
grown  in  the  south,  where  the  seed  is  planted  2 
inches  apart,  in  rows  about  2  feet  apart,  in  rich 
warm  soil,  at  the  same  time  the  beans  are  planted. 
Dwarf  Green  and  Long  Green  are  the  best  known 
varieties. 

ONION 

As  to  growing  onions  for  market,  Henry  Price 
of  Hardin  county,  Ohio,  says :  "  I  like  loam  or 
muck  soil  best  for  onions.  On  hard  ground,  the 
crop  is  uncertain.  This  type  of  soil  dries  out  so 
easily  that  the  ground  gets  hard,  and  when  you 
weed  the  land  the  weeds  break  off  instead  of  pull- 
ing out.  And  more  than  this,  the  onions  will  be  small, 
too  small  for  a  good  market.  Now,  the  real  secret  of 
onion  growing  lies  in  the  preparation  of  tlTe  soil. 
The  seed  bed  must  be  fine  and  mellow  and  compact. 
I  like  muck  land,  which  I  roll  and  rub  until  it  is 
solid.     A  smooth  surface  is  left  so  the  row  marker 


^10  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

on  the  onion  seed  drill  will  show  plainly,  enabling 
the  driller  to  make  straight  rows.  After  rolling  the 
land,  I  sow  fertilizer,  using  a  drill.  Some  success- 
ful onion  growers  sow  fertilizers  broadcast  after 
plowing  and  before  harrowing  or  rolling  the  land. 
I  use  a  brand  that  has  a  small  amount  of  nitrogen, 
from  8  to  lo  per  cent  of  available  phosphoric  acid 
and  from  8  to  lo  per  cent  of  potash. 

"  In  planting,  run  the  onion  drills  so  as  to  make 
the  rows  14  inches  apart.  This  allows  cultivators 
and  weeders  to  pass  through  without  difficulty. 
The  seeds  should  not  be  sown  over  i  inch  in  depth, 
and  less  than  that  is  better.  As  soon  as  the  sprouts 
come  through  so  you  can  see  the  rows,  begin  wheel 
hoeing.  I  usually  run  my  cultivators  between  rows 
until  weeds  begin  to  come.  Then  I  set  the  wheel 
hoe  to  straddle  the  row  and  plow  close  to  save  as 
much  finger  weeding  as  possible.  After  the  work- 
ing has  begun,  the  onions  should  be  cultivated  once 
a  week  and  weeded  so  as  to  keep  them  clean  until 
laid  by. 

"  Pull  white  onions  while  tops  are  yet  green  and 
standing;  top  them  at  once  into  crates  and  leave 
them  in  the  field  in  single  rows  not  over  four 
crates  high.  Cover  the  top  crates  well  with  onion 
tops,  boards  or  some  other  thing  that  will  turn  sun 
and  rain  from  them.  After  about  ten  days  the 
onions  can  be  taken  into  the  sheds  or  sent  to  market. 
After  the  tops  of  red  and  yellow  onions  begin  to 
fall,  pull  them  out  of  the  ground  and  lay  in  wind- 
rows.    Begin  to  top  in  about  five  or  six  days." 

A  NEW  ENGLAND  ONION  FIELD 

"  Last  year,"  says  G.  M.  Hubbard  of  Franklin 
county,  Massachusetts,  "  I  raised  11  acres  of  onions, 


THE  VEGETABLE   GARDEN  211 

securing  an  average  yield  of  669  bushels  an  acre. 
Four  acres  made  gross  returns  of  3,000  bushels  of 
yellows,  an  average  of  825  bushels  to  the  acre.  An- 
other tract  of  five  acres  returned  3,176  bushels,  an 
average  of  635  to  the  acre.  This  last  tract  of  land 
was  not  stocked,  and  the  seed  proved  to  be  poor. 

*'  I  use  Connecticut-grown  seed  and  prefer  the 
late  varieties.  I  fertilize  my  land  thoroughly, 
favoring  a  low-grade  fertilizer.  I  use  a  ton  and  a 
half  an  acre,  and  about  500  pounds  high-grade  bone, 
containing  5^^  per  cent  ammonia  and  20  per  cent 
phosphoric  acid.  I  usually  apply  the  fertilizer  be- 
fore sowing  the  onion  seed.  If  my  land  is  not  full 
of  weed  seeds  I  prefer  to  apply  some  fertilizer  dur- 
ing the  summer  so  as  to  facilitate  rapid  growth." 

"  The  average  yield  of  my  last  crop,"  writes 
Willard  Jones  of  Madison  county,  New  York, 
"  was  500  bushels  an  acre.  The  maximum  yield 
of  one  lot  was  900  bushel  crates.  The  price  re- 
ceived was  50  cents  a  bushel  for  the  firsts,  and  25 
cents  for  the  little  ones,  that  Is,  not  less  than  i^^ 
inches  in  diameter  separated  by  screening.  A  com- 
mon way  of  putting  the  crop  on  the  market  is  to 
pack  in  bushel  crates,  draw  to  the  railroad  siding 
and  dump  in  bulk,  returning  to  the  onion  crib  with 
the  crates  for  other  loads.  We  have  sold  some 
onions  packed  in  loo-pound  sacks.  The  local 
buyer  pays  for  the  sack.  Harvesting  is  over  by 
November  i.  Six  rows  of  onions  are  pulled  and 
thrown  loosely  into  one  windrow  and  left  about  a 
week  to  dry,  then  the  onions  are  hand-clipped  and 
put  in  crates  by  girls,  boys,  and  women.  In  the 
field  the  crates  are  stacked  up,  ten  in  a  heap,  for  a 
few  days,  when  they  are  cribbed  and  ready  for 
screening. 


212  MAKING   HORTICULTURE  PAY 

"  I  have  never  sown  a  cover  crop  after  onions, 
because  this  would  interfere  with  cultivation  in 
the  following  season.  The  green  stuff  or  roots 
would  tear  up  the  onion  seedlings.  I  have  never 
found  it  profitable  to  store  onions  for  the  winter 
market.  The  shrinkage  and  waste  takes  the  extra 
price,  and  the  extra  care  and  labor  makes  it  un- 
profitable for  me  to  store.  Culls  and  rubbish  are 
generally  thrown  on  hard  land  and  plowed  under, 
though  sometimes  they  are  pitched  on  brush  heaps 
and  burned.  This  is  always  done  when  onion 
maggots  have  been  prevalent." 

GIBRALTAR  ONION 

Concerning  the  Gibraltar  onion  L.  C.  Seal  of 
Bartholomew  county,  Indiana,  writes,  "  The  Gib- 
raltar onion  is  claimed  to  be  the  largest  onion  in 
existence,  standing  in  a  class  of  its  own.  It  is  a 
rank  grower  on  congenial  soil  and  has  coarse 
blades  of  a  glossy,  olive  green.  The  layers  of  flesh 
are  thick,  solid,  juicy,  snow  white,  and  very  mild 
in  flavor.  Probably  its  only  fault  as  raised  in  this 
country  is  its  inclination  to  early  decay.  It  can- 
not be  classed  as  a  keeper,  but  it  can  as  an  *  eater,' 
and  must  be  consumed  in  season.  As  a  table  onion 
it  cannot  be  excelled. 

**  By  February  22  the  rank  heat  in  my  hotbed 
was  subsiding,  and  I  sowed  the  seed  in  drills  I  inch 
apart  and  rather  thickly.  It  came  up  fairly  well, 
giving  me  from  six  to  ten  plants  to  the  linear  inch. 
Prizetaker  and  Great  Cardinal  seed  were  sown  in 
the  same  bed  at  the  same  time,  but  did  not  come 
up  well. 

"  After  two  weeks,  when  the  bed  had  reached  the 
minimum  temperature  of  (y%  degrees,  I  resowed  the 


THE   VEGETABLE   GARDEN  21 3 

latter  two  and  they  came  up  freely.  *  This  is  proof 
that  Gibraltar  onions  enjoy  a  higher  temperature 
than  other  varieties.  The  Gibraltar  plants  grew 
like  magic.  By  April  6  I  had  sheared  their  tops 
the  second  time,  and  they  were  quite  stocky.  I  at 
once  began  setting  them  in  the  open  bed,  which  I 
had  prepared  for  them  in  the  family  garden.  This 
was  underdrained,  sandy  soil,  well  manured  in  the 
fall  and  prepared  in  the  early  spring  with  a  top 
dressing  of  hen  manure  and  wood  ashes.  Slightly 
dressing  off  the  rootlets  to  balance  the  sheared  tops, 
I  set  them  6  inches  apart  and  12  inches  asunder. 

"  Our  spring  was  a  moist  one  with  warm  days 
and  cool  nights,  and  my  Gibraltar  plants  acted  as 
though  they  had  never  been  moved,  although  they 
had  to  take  a  few  light  frosts.  From  that  time  on 
they  received  the  same  care  and  culture  that  I  gave 
the  other  varieties  later.  They  kept  up  their  vigor- 
ous growth  and  July  13  I  made  a  note  in  my  garden 
diary  that  they  had  commenced  to  bottom.  The 
hot,  dry  weather  seemed  to  contribute  favorably  to 
their  bulbous  growth. 

'*  While  they  did  not  ripen  quite  evenly,  it  was 
of  small  consequence,  and  favorable  to  my  retail 
trade.  I  pulled  the  last  one  September  10.  The 
aggregate  weight  of  my  special  bed  of  Gibraltar 
onions,  10  x  12  feet,  was  y6  pounds,  the  largest 
specimen  weighing  13  ounces.  The  others  ran  from 
3  to  9  ounces,  the  bulk  of  them  weighing  6  to  8 
ounces  apiece.  An  8-ounce  Gibraltar  is  a  beauty, 
and  two  of  them  will  separate  an  onion  lover  from 
his  nickel  on  sight.  I  received  the  uniform  price  of 
5  cents  a  pound  for  them,  and  sold  again  and  again 
to  the  same  customers.  A  few  plants  I  had  left 
were  set  out  in  the  market  garden  in  less  fertile  soil, 
and  made  a  nice  lot  of  onions,  though  not  so  large." 


214  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

POTATO   ONION 

"  Last  November,"  writes  J.  G.  Orsburn  of  Ken- 
tucky, "  I  planted  125  acres  in  potato  onions.  The 
land  was  well  manured  with  chicken  and  stable 
manure  mixed.  It  was  broken  deep  and  close,  and 
harrowed  nicely.  The  rows  were  laid  off  3J/2  feet 
with  a  garden  plow,  and  the  onions  were  covered 
4  or  5  inches  deep  to  keep  them  from  freezing  out 
of  the  ground  in  winter.  No  more  attention  was 
paid  to  them  until  the  opening  of  spring,  when  the 
ground  was  dry  enough  to  work.  Then  I  cultivated 
shallow,  and  kept  it  up  every  ten  days,  or  after 
every  rain,  until  the  onions  had  matured.  The  cul- 
tivation was  done  with  a  garden  plow  and  was 
never  more  than  3  inches  deep,  which  left  the 
onions  a  good,  firm  seed  bed.  I  harvested  them  in 
July,  and  the  plat  yielded  at  the  rate  of  300  bushels 
an  acre.  The  onions  were  as  large  and  fine  as  any  I 
have  ever  seen.  The  soil  is  designated  as  Miami 
silt  loam." 

GROWING    ONION    SETS 

According  to  B.  F.  Stetzer  of  Cumberland  county, 
New  Jersey,  "  Onion  sets  are  grown  from  seed 
sown  about  April  i.  To  get  the  ground  in  good 
shape  for  any  kind  of  an  onion,  large  or  small,  you 
should  sow  the  ground  in  the  fall  with  crimson 
clover,  about  the  middle  of  August,  and  plow  it 
under  in  the  spring  just  before  the  time  of  plant- 
ing. After  you  have  plowed  sow  broadcast  three- 
quarters  of  a  ton  of  fertilizer  to  the  acre,  harrow 
in  well  and  smooth  over  with  a  smoothing  plank. 
It  will  level  the  ground  nicely  and  smash  out 
all  the  small  lumps  of  dirt  the  harrow  fails  to  do. 


THE   VEGETABLE    GARDEN  21$ 

After  this  is  done,  go  over  the  ground  and  fill  in 
the  low  places  with  a  hand  rake. 

"  The  ground  will  now  be  ready  for  sowing  the 
seed.  To  make  the  first  row  to  sow  the  seed  in  I 
usually  take  a  one-quarter-inch  rope,  with  a  stake 
attached  at  each  end,  and  make  a  line.  Then  take 
a  rake  handle  and  go  down  the  line,  making  a  small 
row  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  deep.  There 
is  a  reversible  attachment  or  marker  on  the  drill 
to  make  the  rows  after  the  drill  is  started.  Regu- 
late the  drill  to  sow  about  60  pounds  of  seed  to  the 
acre,  and  cover  lightly.  If  the  soil  is  heavy  you 
should  use  one  ton  of  fertilizer  to  the  acre  and  70 
pounds  of  seed.  Do  not  use  any  manure,  on  ac- 
count of  foul  seed ;  the  clover,  after  being  plowed 
under,  and  the  fertilizer  will  be  all  that  is  needed. 

"  Onion  sets  are  sown  in  rows  12  inches  apart, 
and  cultivated  with  a  two-wheel  cultivator,  using 
two  blades  and  a  one-wheel  cultivator  with  the 
onion  harvester  attached.  Do  not  go  deep  in  the 
soil  when  cultivating.  I  usually  cultivate  once  a 
week.  Be  very  careful  not  to  allow  crabgrass  to 
get  into  the  field  of  onion  sets ;  if  this  grass  gets 
the  best  of  a  field  of  sets  one  might  as  well  plow 
it  under,  as  it  will  cost  more  to  get  the  grass  out 
than  you  would  derive  from  the  sale  of  the  sets. 

"  When  you  gather  the  sets,  usually  about  the 
middle  of  July,  according  to  the  size,  you  should 
run  the  onion  harvester  under  them,  so  as  to  raise 
them  out  of  the  ground.  Go  deep  enough  so  as  not 
to  cut  the  roots.  If  the  tops  are  long  they  should 
be  twisted  or  cut  off.  This  is  done  so  it  will  not 
require  so  many  crates  to  store  them  in,  and  it  will 
save  time  and  a  lot  of  hard  labor  when  cleaning 
them.  Shake  the  dirt  ofif  well  and  put  the  onions 
in  the  crates  to  dry,  about  one  bushel  to  a  crate. 


2l6  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

These  crates  are  put  in  long  rows  on  the  field,  with 
the  edge  of  one  crate  resting  on  the  other  to  keep 
the  bottom  off  the  ground  as  much  as  possible. 
Allow  the  sets  to  dry. 

IMPORTANCE  OF  DRYNESS 

*'  If  it  looks  like  storm,  the  crates  must  be  piled 
up  one  crate  on  top  of  the  other,  about  i6  or  i8 
crates  high.  After  the  crates  are  piled  I  take  an- 
other made  especially  for  this,  and  turn  it  bottom 
upward  over  the  pile  to  keep  the  water  out.  The 
top  crate  is  made  watertight,  and  when  placed  in 
position  should  be  slanted  a  little  to  allow  the 
water  to  run  off.  The  sets  should  never  be  allowed 
to  get  wet  after  being  gathered.  If  they  do  it  will 
turn  them  greenish,  and  have  a  tendency  to  de- 
crease the  price.  Crates  so  piled  should  be  taken 
down  again  and  put  in  rows  as  soon  as  convenient 
after  the   storm. 

"  Leave  them  spread  out  in  the  field  until 
about  September  lo,  then  clean  them,  thoroughly 
rubbing  them  between  the  hands.  After  they  are 
rubbed  they  should  be  carted  to  the  barn  and  run 
through  a  fanning  mill.  This  will  take  dirt  out. 
The  principal  thing  to  do  is  to  get  the  onions  too 
large  for  sets  out  at  the  time  of  getting  the  dirt 
out.  These  are  sold  for  stewers  and  picklers. 
The  stewers  are  about  the  size  of  a  25-cent  piece,  and 
larger.  The  picklers  are  smaller,  but  not  as  small 
as  sets.  I  usually  use  a  seven-eighths-inch  screen 
fanning  mill  to  get  these  picklers  and  stewers  out. 
All  that  don't  go  through  I  sell,  sorting  them  out 
by  hand. 

"  The  picklers  I  ship  to  New  York  commission 
merchants  to  be  sold  on  commission  late  in  Octo- 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN  217 

ber  or  early  November.  They  will  bring  good 
prices  if  shipped  at  this  time,  as  the  commission 
men  sell  from  $2.25  to  $3  a  bushel  hamper.  The 
stewers  are  also  shipped  to  the  commission  mer- 
chants about  the  same  time,  but  sell  for  a  little  less 
than  the  picklers.  The  New  York  market  is  always 
better  than  any  other  in  the  sale  of  onions. 

"  If  sets  are  good  in  the  fall  I  generally  dispose  of 
part  of  them ;  if  not,  I  keep  them  in  my  onion  house 
until  February  i  or  March  i  and  sell  when  there  is  a 
demand  for  them  at  good  prices.  They  usually  sell 
in  the  spring  from  $2.50  to  $4  a  bushel.  I  have  re- 
ceived as  high  as  $6  for  the  Silver  Skin  sets  in  the 
spring.  These  are  the  only  sets  to  grow  for  mar- 
ket, as  they  will  always  command  a  higher  price 
than  any  other  sets  grown. 

"When  storing  sets  in  the  fall  to  keep  until 
spring,  the  crates  should  be  cross-piled  in  a  per- 
fectly watertight  and  dry  building.  When  piling 
put  a  i-inch  block  between  each  pair  of  crates  on 
each  corner  to  give  plenty  of  air  space.  Also  leave 
space  between  piles  lengthwise  to  go  through  and 
examine  at  leisure.  The  building  in  which  the  sets 
are  stored  should  have  many  windows  in  it  for 
ventilation.  In  case  of  warm  weather  these  win- 
dows must  be  thrown  open  to  allow  the  air  to  cir- 
culate and  to  prevent  heating.  If  the  sets  should 
become  warm  they  will  start  to  grow.  This  should 
be  prevented  if  possible.  Never  handle  an  onion 
set  while  it  is  frozen,  or  it  will  rot." 

PARSLEY 

The  leaves  of  parsley  are  used  for  flavoring  and 
garnishing.  The  crop  is  managed  in  the  same  way 
as  parsnips,   except  that  the  leaves  are   gathered 


2l8  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

whenever  desired  and  the  roots  allowed  to  remain 
where  they  are  until  the  seed  stalk  begins  to  grow 
the  following  spring.  For  winter  use  the  roots  may 
be  taken  up  in  the  fall  and  planted  in  pots  or  boxes 
and  kept  in  the  kitchen  window.  Among  the  best 
known  varieties  are  Double  Curled  and  Fern 
Leaved.  Often  parsley  is  used  for  edging  flower 
beds,  because  of  its  attractive  dark  green  foliage. 

PARSNIP 

Cultivation  of  the  parsnip  is  practically  the  same 
as  that  of  beets  and  turnips.  The  seeds  are  sown 
in  drills  in  rich  friable  soil  in  the  early  spring.  As 
they  are  slow  to  sprout,  it  is  desirable  to  plant  a 
few  radish  seeds  at  the  same  time  to  mark  the  rows 
where  the  parsnips  are.  These  radishes  can  be 
removed  when  weeding  the  bed  after  they  have 
served  this  purpose.  A  quick-maturing  variety  of 
radish  is  desirable,  since  it  is  out  of  the  ground 
early. 

After  the  parsnip  plants  are  4  or  5  inches  tall 
they  should  be  thinned  to  stand  4  to  6  inches  apart; 
and  kept  clean  cultivated  until  the  leaves  shade  the 
rows.  Parsnips  are  perfectly  hardy  and  may  be 
allowed  to  remain  in  the  ground  over  winter.  They 
may  be  gathered  at  any  time  with  a  pickax  or  dug 
in  the  spring.  If  they  start  to  grow  in  the  spring 
their  flavor  becomes  impaired,  and  they  often  be- 
come woody  in  the  center.  Usually  they  are  placed 
in  pits  or  root  cellars  like  turnips.  Hollow  Crown 
or  Student  is  the  best  variety  for  table  use.  The 
turnip-rooted  sorts  are  sometimes  cultivated  on 
light  soils. 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN  219 

PEPPER 

Peppers  are  grown  in  practically  the  same  way 
as  tomatoes  and  eggplants,  except  that  they  should 
be  planted  about  2  feet  apart  in  rows  3  feet  apart. 
Among  the  best  known  varieties  are  Ruby  King, 
which  is  a  large,  smooth,  bright  red,  mild  flavored 
sort,  and  Cayenne,  which  is  long,  slender,  and  ex- 
ceedingly pungent. 

PEAS 

According  to  D.  S.  Kelsey  of  Connecticut,  any 
good  land,  stable-manured  the  previous  year,  or  full 
of  half-decayed  sod,  will  do  for  garden  peas.  He 
says :  "  I  plow  late  in  the  fall  and  harrow  thor- 
oughly in  April.  Late  peas  collect  their  own 
nitrates  on  such  land,  and  for  them  any  good  super- 
phosphate is  a  complete  manure,  but  for  early  re- 
sults (and  I  aim  to  secure  our  market  and  keep  it  by 
being  two  to  five  days  ahead  of  competitors) 
nitrates  must  be  supplied.  The  land  is  then  too 
cold  to  favor  the  nitrifying  processes  and  to  insure 
success.  To  lengthen  the  season  we  use  in  the 
drill  600  to  1,000  pounds  of  4-5-10  complete  fer- 
tilizer of  our  own  mixing.  The  nitrogen  is  nearly 
all  organic. 

"  As  a  source  of  nitrogen,  well-decayed  horse 
dressing  may  be  broadcasted  in  partial  substitu- 
tion, or  a  little  pulverized  poultry  dressing  applied 
directly  in  the  drills.  We  plant  in  single  rows 
(north  and  south  always),  36  inches  apart,  4  to  5 
inches  deep,  covering  2  inches  and  filling  these 
drills  gradually  in  subsequent  cultivations.  Run 
the  weeder  every  five  to  seven  days  from  planting 
till   vines  are  6  inches  high;    then  the  cultivator 


220  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

weekly.  A  quick  start  and  continuous  rapid 
growth  is  our  motto  for  all  such  crops.  The  same 
rules  and  methods  will  rush  turnips  or  even  sweet 
corn  through  as  a  second  crop  following  peas. 

"  We  pick  every  morning  (the  same  rows  two  or 
three  times  a  week),  beginning  promptly  at  3.30, 
hiring  school  children,  who  go  to  bed  at  sunset,  for 
this  purpose.  A  pod  thus  picked,  and  kept  cold 
and  wet  as  found  at  sunrise,  will  keep  its  contents 
perfectly  sweet  and  fresh  for  two  or  three  days, 
although  marketing  immediately  should  be  the 
rule.  It  is  bad  policy  to  sell  wilted  pods  to  one's 
regular  trade. 

"  Yield?  Oh,  100  to  200  bushels  an  acre,  accord- 
ing to  season,  land,  and  kind.  I  mean  the  kind  of 
man.  Bushing?  Usually  it  does  not  pay.  We 
sometimes  wire  a  field,  using  split  cordwood  stakes 
every  rod  on  each  row.  One  wire  15  inches  above 
the  vines.  When  not  rushed  we  mow  and  dry  the 
vines  promptly,  then  thresh  and  store.  Peas  make 
excellent  winter  fodder.  Otherwise  rot  them,  but 
never  burn.  They  are  a  highly  valuable  mulch 
for  any  purpose." 

EDITOR'S  EXPERIENCES 

"  My  father,"  writes  the  editor,  *'  grew  the  old 
Champion  of  England  and  Blue  Imperial  garden 
peas  when  I  was  a  boy,  because  they  were,  in  his 
opinion,  of  the  choicest  quality.  He  would  not 
grow  any  of  the  round,  smooth-seeded,  very  early 
sorts,  because  of  their  lack  of  flavor,  nor  would  he 
try  any  of  the  dwarf  wrinkled  varieties,  because  he 
classed  them  with  the  very  early  kinds.  When  I 
had  a  garden  of  my  own,  I  wished  to  avoid  the 
work  of  brushing  the  rows,  so  determined  to  try 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN  221 

American  Wonder,  Premium  Gem  and  Bliss  Ever- 
bearing. These  three  varieties  were  such  a  sur- 
prise to  both  my  father  and  myself  that  from  that 
year  afterward  not  a  single  tall-growing  variety 
was  grown  in  our  garden. 

*'  Since  then  I  have  grown  many  of  the  impor- 
tant dwarf  peas  and  have  found  that  American  Won- 
der is  still  unsurpassed  in  quality  and  is,  perhaps, 
the  hardiest  of  the  wrinkled  varieties.  It  requires 
a  rich  soil  and  extra  cultivation  to  get  the  best 
results  from  it.  If  I  were  restricted  to  one  variety, 
American  Wonder  would  be  my  choice.  Next  to 
this  variety  I  think  I  would  place  Nott's  Excelsior. 
It  is  an  excellent  cropper  and  compares  favorably 
in  flavor  with  the  best  of  both  the  dwarf  and  the 
tall  wrinkled  kinds.  Because  of  its  productiveness, 
it  has  become  exceedingly  popular  among  market 
gardeners,  with  whom  it  has  largely  replaced  even 
American  Wonder,  because  it  is  a  trifle  earlier. 
The  old  Premium  Gem  is  almost  entirely  replaced 
by  these  varieties.  Sutton's  Excelsior,  one  of  the 
newer  varieties,  is  somewhat  later  than  Nott's,  but 
has  large  pods  usually  containing  six  or  seven  big 
peas  of  excellent  flavor.  It  is  a  strong  candidate  for 
public  favor. 

*'  In  growing  peas  it  is  essential  to  know  that  the 
Dwarf  Wrinkled  kinds  are  somewhat  less  hardy 
than  the  round,  smooth-seeded  varieties.  They 
cannot  be  sown,  as  a  rule,  quite  so  early,  because 
the  ground  must  have  warmed  up  a  good  deal  be- 
fore they  will  germinate  successfully,  and  if  sown 
too  early  they  decay.  The  round-seeded  kinds  can  be 
sown  almost  as  soon  as  the  ground  can  be  worked, 
and  they  will  come  up  remarkably  well,  but  no  one 
who  has  a  discriminating  taste  will  enjoy  these 
extra  early  peas,  because  they  lack  flavor.     There- 


222  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

fore,  for  home  use,  it  is  well  to  confine  one's  self  to 
the  early  dwarf  wrinkled  kinds.  If  one  is  supply- 
ing a  demand  he  cannot  do  better  than  to  educate 
his  regular  customers  and  his  grocer  into  a  just 
appreciation  of  high  quality.  This  may  seem  like 
wasting  time,  but  each  succeeding  year  the  demand 
will  increase,  and  people  will  be  asking  for  peas 
weeks  before  they  can  be  secured. 

"  Anybody  who  can  grow  anything  can  grow 
peas,  because  they  will  do  well  on  any  kind  of  soil, 
even  rather  poor,  if  it  is  well  drained.  The  ground 
should  be  plowed  deeply,  harrowed  smoothly,  and 
the  rows  struck  off  3  feet  apart  for  the  dwarf 
kinds ;  tall  kinds  should  be  planted  in  rows 
5  or  6  feet  apart,  because  very  frequently 
they  grow  6  feet  tall.  The  seeds  are  gen- 
erally dropped  about  an  inch  apart  and  covered 
about  4  inches  deep.  Unleached  wood  ashes  or 
some  other  fertilizer  rich  in  potash  are  usually 
applied  before  harrowing.  Phosphoric  acid  is  also 
needed,  but  no  nitrogen  is  needed,  because  the  peas 
secure  sufficient  from  the  tubercles  on  the  roots. 
Clean  cultivation  is  all  that  is  necessary  until  the 
vines  would  be  injured  by  the  cultivator. 

"  With  strains  of  peas  that  have  been  carefully 
selected  for  market  gardeners  practically  the  whole 
crop  can  be  gathered  at  one  picking  and  the  vines 
pulled  up  and  fed  to  stock.  In  such  cases  the 
ground  may  be  at  once  fitted  for  a  crop  of  late 
cabbage,  string  beans,  or  other  vegetable  that  ma- 
tures in  short  time.  Thus,  the  ground  may  be  used 
for  two  crops  in  the  season." 

PENNSYLVANIA   PEA   GROWING 

According  to  T.  L.  Wall  of  Clearfield  county, 
Pennsylvania,  a  good  clover  sod  makes  an  excellent 


THE  VEGETABLE   GARDEN  223 

basis  for  a  crop  of  garden  peas.  Says  he :  "  For 
the  earHest  crop  I  select  a  warm,  well-drained 
eastern  or  southern  slope,  plow  and  prepare  the 
ground  in  March  if  possible.  As  we  are  i,6oo  to 
1,700  feet  above  sea  level,  and  about  latitude  41 
degrees,  it  is  necessary  to  be  ready  to  go  to  work 
the  first  day  it  is  fit,  if  the  frost  is  out  of  the 
ground. 

"  After  plowing  I  first  use  a  clod  crusher  to  level 
the  ground  and  then  apply  a  3%-io-5  fertilizer, 
made  according  to  my  own  formula  from  nitrate 
of  soda,  dried  blood,  acid  phosphate,  muriate  and 
sulphate  of  potash,  at  the  rate  of  about  1,800  pounds 
to  the  acre.  One  year  I  applied  about  half  of  it 
where  the  row  of  peas  was  to  be,  cultivating  it  or 
harrowing  it  in  thoroughly,  thus  putting  the  ground 
in  the  best  condition  possible  early  in  the  season. 

"  The  rows  are  staked  out  3><  to  4  feet  apart. 
Four  feet  is  best  unless  the  furrows  are  made  very 
straight.  A  single  shovel  plow  is  used.  A  furrow 
is  first  made  a  little  to  one  side  of  the  row  of  stakes 
and  peas  planted  by  hand,  in  it,  using  a  quart  to  a 
230-foot  row.  The  shovel  plow  is  then  run  close 
above,  and  just  near  enough  to  cover  the  peas 
nicely  in  the  first  furrow  about  i  inch  deep.  In 
the  second  furrow  made  in  covering  the  peas 
in  the  first,  peas  are  planted  as  in  the  first  furrow, 
and  covered  with  the  plow  in  the  same  way.  Thus 
a  double  row  is  made  with  about  6  inches  between. 
In  this  space  in  the  row,  small  sharpened  locust 
stakes  are  driven  every  15  to  20  feet  as  soon  as  the 
peas  are  up,  so  that  the  rows  can  be  plainly  seen. 
On  these  stakes,  poultry  netting  is  stretched  and 
fastened  at  upper  and  lower  edges  with  staples. 

"  For  Alaska,  my  favorite  early  variety,  a  12-inch 
wire  is  used.     For  Gradus  and  other  kinds  of  about 


224  MAKING   HORTICULTURE  PAY 

the  same  height,  24-inch  wire  is  necessary,  but  above 
that  width  the  cost  of  wire  is  too  great,  so  I  rarely 
plant  the  high-growing  kinds.  The  remainder  of 
the  fertilizer  is  applied,  between  the  rows  about 
the  time  the  wire  is  put  up,  and  cultivation  will 
follow.  One  or  two  applications  of  nitrate  of  soda 
are  made  before  the  vines  reach  the  top  of  the  wire 
netting  to  keep  up  the  growth  and  to  keep  the  color 
a  dark  green.  Other  plantings  are  made  the  same 
as  the  first,  according  to  season.  The  second  and 
later  plantings  are  of  the  best  varieties — as  Gradus, 
Senator,  Yorkshire  Hero,  and  Improved  Pride  of 
the  Market.  Later  plantings  are  covered  2  inches 
or  more. 

"  Alaska  is  selected  for  the  earliest  planting  on 
account  of  its  extreme  hardiness.  It  does  not  often 
rot  in  the  soil,  and  its  quality  is  good  if  growth  is 
quick  and  peas  are  picked  just  as  soon  as  they  are 
large  enough.  For  putting  on  fertilizer  a  dis- 
tributer is  run  by  hand,  very  much  like  a  wheel- 
barrow. Any  quantity  can  be  applied  in  a  width 
of  8  to  30  inches  between  or  along  rows.  I  do  my 
own  marketing  and  by  having  peas  ready  to  sell 
early  in  June  I  have  practically  no  competition. 
Peas  come  in  nicely  with  strawberries,  the  two 
forming  an  irresistible  temptation  to  the  average 
housekeeper. 

"  Some  may  say  that  a  machine  planter  could  be 
used  to  advantage,  but  I  have  not  seen  a  machine 
that  will  plant  the  double  rows  as  I  want  them.  A 
machine  that  would  plant  peas  i  inch  apart  in 
double  row,  with  5  or  6  inches  of  space  between, 
would  be  very  convenient.  As  soon  as  the  crop 
is  ofiF,  early  in  July,  usually,  the  vines  are  removed 
and  fed  to  stock.     The  stakes  and  wire  are  taken 


THE  VEGETABLE   GARDEN  22$ 

down  and  stored  away  for  next  year.  The  ground 
is  well  cultivated  and  red  clover  is   sowed. 

"  The  land  on  which  I  grow  peas  is  an  old  field 
that  was  farmed  in  wheat  for  many  years  until  the 
soil  was  practically  exhausted.  I  first  lined  it  with 
some  fertilizer  and  succeeded  in  getting  a  fair  catch 
of  red  clover.  I  have  never  used  any  barnyard 
manure  on  it,  depending  entirely  on  commercial 
fertilizers  and  clover.  The  heavy  application  of 
fertilizers  insures  a  good  catch  of  clover.  I  usually 
mow  the  clover  twice  a  year  and  plant  again  in 
peas. 

"  The  land  is  now  set  in  young  cherry  and  pear 
trees,  only  a  little  extra  room  being  left  for  each 
row  of  trees,  the  rows  of  peas  being  planted  4  or  5 
feet  from  the  trees.  The  trees  reach  out  their  roots 
and  get  a  share  of  the  fertilizer  and  seem  to  enjoy 
it.  I  find  that  the  peas  do  better  after  they  have 
been  grown  a  year  or  two  on  the  same  ground, 
with  crops  of  clover  the  years  between.  Whether 
this  is  because  the  nitrogen-gathering  bacteria  be- 
come more  numerous  after  repeated  growing  of 
these  leguminous  crops,  I  cannot  say  with  cer- 
tainty." 

RADISH 


Radish  seed  is  sown  in  drills  in  the  earliest  spring 
and  for  successional  plantings  at  intervals  of  a  week 
or  ten  days.  By  allowing  4  to  6  feet  of  the  drill  to 
each  member  of  the  family,  and  making  five  or  six 
sowings  at  intervals,  there  should  be  a  sufficient 
supply  until  early  summer.  During  summer  the 
plants  are  apt  to  become  woody  and  strong  and  to 
run  to  seed  quickly.     The  rows  may  be  only  6  or  8 


226  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

inches  apart.  Some  of  the  varieties  can  be  ready 
for  the  table  in  three  to  four  weeks. 

Winter  radishes  are  managed  in  the  same  way  as 
turnips,  the  seeds  being  sown  in  July  or  August 
and  the  roots  gathered  in  autumn  and  stored  in  pits 
or  cellars.  They  are  coarser  and  not  as  highly  ap- 
preciated as  the  early  radishes.  If  only  a  fall  sup- 
ply is  desired,  it  is  best  to  sow  the  early  spring 
varieties  in  successional  plantings  between  Sep- 
tember I  and  October  1.  In  cold  frames  radishes 
may  be  easily  secured  until  after  New  Year's  with 
very  little  trouble. 

Among  the  best  known  early  varieties  are  French 
Breakfast,  Scarlet  Turnip,  Deep  Scarlet,  and  Scarlet 
Short  Top.  The  best  known  late  ones  are  White 
Strasburg,  Rose,  and  White  Spanish. 

RHUBARB 

"About  12  years  ago,"  writes  W.  T.  Suter  of 
Pennsylvania,  "  I  began  to  sit  up  and  take  notice 
that  rhubarb  would  make  a  fair  side  dish  for  our 
general  meal  of  market  goods.  The  following 
spring's  inventory  showed  about  150  hills  of  worn- 
out  and  grass-grown  rhubarb  roots.  These  were 
divided  and  laboriously  transplanted  by  marking 
out  as  for  corn,  and  with  a  shovel  digging  holes 
12  to  14  inches  deep,  in  which  to  plant  the  roots. 

"  These  roots  grew  wonderfully  and  by  dividing 
part  of  them  each  season  I  soon  had  all  our  small 
market  demanded.  But  it  was  soon  evident  that 
there  was  too  much  labor  connected  with  the  trans- 
planting, and  we  were  too  busy  in  the  spring,  so  we 
tried  the  following  method,  which  seems  to  give 
maximum  results  with  minimum  labor: 


THE  VEGETABLE   GARDEN  227 

"  In  November,  with  a  strong  team  and  plow,  we 
turn  out  the  oldest  or  poorest  roots  for  transplant- 
ing. If  the  ground  is  wet,  we  set  the  large  roots 
on  edge  and  allow  them  to  dry  a  day  or  more,  per- 
haps a  week.  The  soil  is  then  removed  with  a  pick 
by  striking  the  side  farthest  from  the  crown.  The 
roots  are  divided  by  breaking  apart  and  some  must 
be  cut  with  a  heavy  knife  or  hatchet.  Our  aim  is 
to  have  two  or  more  uninjured  eyes  in  each  plant. 

"  Any  soil  that  will  grow  corn  will  do  for  rhu- 
barb, but  the  freer  it  is  from  grass  roots  the  better, 
and  it  must  not  contain  quack  grass.  Prepare  the 
soil  as  for  wheat,  then  with  a  two-horse  plow  draw 
furrows  5  or  6  feet  apart,  as  deep  as  you  can  plow, 
going  twice  to  the  row.  The  land  will  now  be 
ready  for  the  roots,  which  should  be  set  about  3 
feet  apart,  eyes  up  and  enough  soil  drawn  in  by 
hand  to  hold  the  roots  in  place. 

"  The  setter  is  followed  by  a  man  with  a  shovel, 
who  places  four  or  five  shovels  of  soil  on  each 
plant  in  a  mound,  leaving  the  furrow  open  between 
the  hills.  These  open  places  are  filled  with  manure 
and  some  put  over  the  mound,  after  the  ground 
is  frozen  enough  to  bear  a  team.  Level  culture  is 
given  in  the  spring.  Large  weeds  and  seed  stalks 
are  promptly  removed.  No  hoeing  is  required. 
Old  plantations  are  cultivated  after  the  crop  is 
marketed. 

"  Transplanting  rhubarb  can  be  done  as  success- 
fully in  the  fall  as  in  early  spring.  The  ground 
works  better,  we  have  more  time,  and  the  plants 
get  an  earlier  start  in  the  spring.  After  first  sea- 
son's growth  we  mulch  liberally  in  November  and 
December  with  coarse  manure  or  litter  of  almost 
any  kind. 


228  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

KIND   OF  STALKS   IN   DEMAND 

"  If  we  want  nice,  straight,  pink,  plump  rhubarb, 
we  shake  up  this  coarse  litter  in  the  spring  as  soon 
as  the  stalks  begin  to  show,  and  pile  it  around  and 
over  the  hills.  If  the  work  is  well  done,  the  results 
are  remarkable.  Instead  of  a  green  stem  4  or  5 
inches  long,  and  with  a  broad  leaf,  we  have  a  pink 
stem  8  or  10  inches  long  and  a  small  leaf  similar  to 
that  grown  in  a  rhubarb  house. 

"  This  very  early  rhubarb  is  the  product  that  we 
work  for.  A  pound  of  early  rhubarb  is  worth  as 
much  as  five  pounds  later,  and  sells  much  better. 
We  begin  to  sell  outdoor  rhubarb  as  soon  as  it  gets 
6  or  8  inches  high,  and  continue  as  long  as  there 
is  a  sale  for  it.  This  varies  according  to  the  supply 
and  abundance  of  fruit,  etc.  The  sales  greatly 
diminish  as  soon  as  strawberries  and  cherries  be- 
come plentiful.  The  prices  vary  from  2  to  10 
cents  a  pound  according  to  season.  The  first  is 
bunched  in  pound  bunches  and  sold  at  10  cents 
retail.  A  little  later  it  is  sold  at  8  cents  and  then 
as  low  as  5  cents.  As  the  rhubarb  grows,  the 
bunches  are  gradually  increased  in  size,  until  at 
canning  time  they  weigh  2  or  2^  pounds  and  are 
sold  at  5  cents  or  six  for  25  cents.  At  this  time, 
the  rhubarb  is  12  to  24  inches  high,  and  is  very 
little  work  to  prepare. 

"  One  year  the  sales  from  about  one-half  acre 
reached  $158.30.  That  season  opened  March  21, 
which  is  very  unusual  in  central  Pennsylvania. 
The  following  year  the  season  opened  April  20  and 
sales  from  about  the  same  area  reached  only 
$103.60.  The  third  year,  with  the  aid  of  a  dozen 
sash,  sales  reached  $163.75.  In  the  winter  of  the 
fourth  year  we  fitted  up  an  old  greenhouse  20  by  38 


THE   VEGETABLE   GARDEN  229 

feet  by  removing  sash  and  covering  it  with  straw 
and  leaves,  thus  making  very  little  heat  necessary. 
The  house  was  perfectly  dark.  Rhubarb  was 
grown  here  that  increased  sales  to  $253.75.  We 
think  40  to  50  degrees  better  for  rhubarb  forcing 
than  a  higher  temperature. 

"  Bear  in  mind  that  nearly  all  of  this  was  sold 
locally  in  a  town  with  a  population  of  about  9,000; 
after  the  first  few  days  we  could  have  sold  much 
more  had  we  had  a  larger  population  within  our 
reach.  We  now  have  about  i>^  acres  in  rhubarb, 
but  most  of  this  is  to  produce  roots  for  winter 
forcing." 

RHUBARB  FOR  WINTER 

Few  people  realize  that  with  comparatively  little 
trouble  a  bountiful  supply  of  rhubarb  for  the  ordi- 
nary family  may  be  had  from  the  middle  of  January 
until  the  outdoor  product  is  available. 

Dig  up  a  dozen  or  15  crowns,  at  least  two  years 
old,  lifting  as  much  of  the  root  system  as  possible 
without  shaking  off  the  soil.  Do  this  before  the 
ground  becomes  frozen  hard.  Place  the  crowns  on 
some  well-drained  spot  and  cover  slightly  to  pre- 
vent their  drying  out,  and  allow  them  to  freeze 
solidly.  When  in  this  condition  take  them  up  and 
place  closely  together  In  a  dark  corner  of  an  ordi- 
nary cellar  or  cave.  Fill  the  spaces  and  cover  to  a 
depth  of  I  to  2  inches  with  any  good  garden  soil, 
then  thoroughly  wet  down  with  water.  If  the 
cellar  is  dry,  one  or  two  more  waterings  may  be 
necessary,  but  often  the  first  one  will  be  sufficient. 

In  two  to  four  weeks  the  stalks  will  be  large 
enough  to  use  and  the  supply  will  continue  from 
the    same    crowns    for   two   to    three    weeks.      By 


230  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

bringing  in  half  a  dozen  crowns  at  intervals  of 
three  to  four  weeks  a  constant  supply  may  be 
secured.  The  best  temperature  is  between  40  and 
50  degrees.  If  the  temperature  is  higher  the  crop 
will  come  on  quicker,  but  the  stalks  do  not  last  as 
long.  The  old  crowns  should  be  thrown  away  after 
forcing,  as  they  have  exhausted  themselves  in  the 
production  of  the  crop  in  this  artificial  way.  New 
crowns  may  easily  be  kept  coming  on  by  sowing 
a  little  seed  each  year  in  very  rich  soil  and  cultivat- 
ing until  at  least  two  years  of  age. 

SALSIFY,  OR  VEGETABLE  OYSTER 

Salsify  is  grown  for  its  tap  roots,  which  are 
cooked  and  served  like  carrots  and  parsnips.  The 
cultivation  is  the  same  as  for  parsnips  (which  see). 
The  best  known  variety  is  the  Mammoth  Sandwich 
Island. 

SPINACH 

Spinach  is  an  annual  plant  whose  leaves  are  used 
in  late  fall,  early  winter,  and  spring  for  greens. 
There  are  two  principal  classes  of  this  vegetable, 
one  with  round  seeds,  the  other  with  prickly.  The 
latter  are  considered  the  hardier,  though  the  former 
are  esteemed  more  highly  for  table  use. 

Frequently  this  crop  is  sown  between  early  spring 
crops  such  as  peas  and  cabbage,  and  is  removed 
before  these  plants  require  all  the  ground.  The 
plants  are  cut  at  the  surface  of  the  ground  when 
needed  for  use.  A  push  hoe  is  a  convenient  tool 
for  cutting. 


THE   VEGETABLE   GARDEN  23 1 

SQUASH 

There  are  several  well-defined  groups  of  squashes. 
Among  the  best  known  are  Scallop  and  Crookneck, 
which  form  bushlike  plants  about  4  or  5  feet  across, 
and  the  running  squashes,  which  include  the  late 
varieties.  The  bush  squashes  are  early  sorts. 
Squashes  are  planted  in  rich  soil,  the  summer  va- 
rieties about  6  feet  apart  and  the  winter  sorts  8 
or  10  feet.  Six  or  eight  seeds  should  be  placed  in 
each  hill,  and  when  the  plants  have  grown  well,  the 
poorer  ones  should  be  thinned  out,  leaving  only 
two  plants  to  the  hill.  Early  kinds  are  often  started 
on  inverted  sods  or  in  berry  boxes,  cold  frames  or 
hotbeds,  and  then  transplanted  to  the  fields. 

Summer  varieties  are  not  grown  for  fall  use,  as 
they  do  not  keep  well,  and  also  because  they  are 
not  fit  to  eat  after  the  skin  becomes  hard.  Winter 
squashes  can  be  used  at  any  time,  but  are  usually 
allowed  to  mature.  Invariably  they  should  be 
gathered  before  frosty  weather,  as  even  a  slight 
frost  injures  their  keeping  qualities.  They  are 
often  placed  in  piles  in  the  field,  and  covered  with 
the  vines  at  night,  until  they  are  thoroughly  dry 
and  the  skins  have  become  flinty.  At  least  an 
inch  of  the  stem  should  be  cut  with  each  fruit. 
This  serves  as  a  handle.  The  fruit  should  always 
be  handled  with  the  greatest  care  to  prevent  even 
slight  bruises.  Among  the  early  varieties  are  Sum- 
mer Crookneck,  Bush  Scallop,  and  Boston  Marrow. 
The  late  varieties  include  Hubbard,  Marblehead, 
Essex  Hybrid,  Bay  State,  and  Winter  Crookneck. 
This  last  variety  is  not  of  as  good  flavor  as  the 
others.     It  is  about  equal  to  pumpkins. 

Squashes  expected  to  keep  well  must  be  gath- 
ered carefully  just  before  the  first  frost.     Leave  the 


2;^2  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

stems  on  and  do  not  bruise.  If  frost  nips  them  ever 
so  little,  they  begin  to  decay,  at  lirst  slowly,  but 
soon  they  will  be  ruined.  After  they  are  gathered 
it  is  best  to  store  them  in  an  outbuilding  until 
danger  of  freezing  approaches.  They  should  then 
be  taken  to  a  cool,  dry,  airy  cellar,  and  placed  upon 
shelves,  being  careful  that  they  do  not  touch  one 
another.  Squashes  gathered  and  taken  care  of  in 
this  way  will  keep  good  until  nearly  spring. 

Francis  C.  Kiner  of  Illinois  writes:  "The  best 
luck  I  ever  had  storing  squashes  and  pumpkins  was 
in  a  cellar  adjoining  a  furnace  room.  It  was  very 
dry  and  the  windows  were  all  kept  open  until  there 
was  danger  of  frost  entering  the  cellar.  Tlie 
squashes  were  gathered  just  before  frost  without 
bruising,  care  being  taken  to  leave  all  the  stems  on. 
They  were  set  on  shelves  about  4  feet  up  from  the 
cellar  floor.  The  windows  were  left  open  for  a  while 
every  warm  day  during  the  winter  to  air  the  cellar. 

"  These  squashes  kept  nicely  until  January  1. 
Then  some  of  them  began  to  speck.  When  I 
wanted  one  to  use  I  looked  them  over  and  used  the 
ones  that  were  beginning  to  show  signs  of  not  keep- 
ing very  well.  By  this  method  none  went  to  waste. 
A  number  of  them  kept  until  spring.  The 
squashes  were  the  Hubbard,  the  Hester,  the  Mar- 
low,  and  sweet  pumpkins.  There  was  a  fine  lot  of 
them,  and  I  do  not  know  that  our  family  ever  en- 
joyed anything  better  than  they  did  those  squashes. 
The  Hester  squash,  especially,  is  a  fine  keeper,  and, 
if  cooked  right,  is  equal  to  sweet  potatoes." 

TOMATO 

To  grow  tomatoes  requires  no  especial  skill.  In 
fact,  there  is  no  plant  in  field  or  garden  except  the 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN 


233 


weed  that  will  submit  to  gross  neglect  and  still 
flourish  as  will  the  tomato,  and  if  we  were  content 
to  grow  a  supply  for  home  or  market  during 
the  months  of  August  and  September  no  especial 
instruction  or  costly  manipulation  would  be  re- 
quired. 

On  this  subject  W.  J.  Ritterskamp  of  Indiana 
writes  as  follows :  "  I  find  that  to  grow  tomatoes 
very  early,  say,  to  have  them  commence  to  ripen 
during  the  first 
halt  of  June  while 
prices  are  high, 
three  things  are 
absolutely  neces- 
sary. First,  an 
early  variety,  then 
an  early  start,  and 
lastly  an  early  situ- 
ation. 

"There  is  not 
much  to  say  or 
write  about  early 
varieties,  as  we  are 
still  looking  for  the 
ideal  one.  Those 
we  have  are  either 

too  small  or  the  shape  is  not  desirable.  When  peo- 
ple are  asked  to  pay  from  35  to  50  cents  a  dozen  for 
tomatoes  they  demand  fruit  that  has  the  color  and 
shape  to  please  the  eye,  and  quality  is  of  secondary 
importance.  I  have  found  but  one  variety.  Chalk's 
Early  Jewel,  that  combines  size,  shape,  color,  and 
firmness  in  a  high  degree,  but  unfortunately  it  is 
not  one  of  the  very  first  early. 

"  Of    the    first    earlies    Maule's    Earliest    is    my 
choice.     It  is  a  very  prolific  large  red  tomato,  and. 


POTTED  TOMATO  PLANT 


234  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

if  one  is  willing  to  throw  out  half  for  culls,  the 
others  will  make  a  very  salable  grade  of  firsts.  The 
quality  is  of  the  best,  and  as  this  variety  is  so  very 
prolific,  I  believe  that  the  one-half  retained  as  firsts 
will  measure  up  equally  with  the  entire  crop  of 
Acme,  Dwarf  Champion,  or  Dwarf  Stone. 

"  I  sow  seed  of  Chalk's  Early  Jewel  in  green- 
house by  February  i.  When  plants  show  the  true 
leaf  I  transplant  the  seedlings  2x2  inches  on  the 
benches.  As  soon  as  they  crowd  each  other  I 
transplant  again,  using  4-inch  flower  pots  for  1,000 
or  more.  The  others  are  set  3  x  4  inches,  either 
on  the  benches  or  in  a  hotbed.  I  keep  the  tempera- 
ture rather  low,  45  degrees  at  night,  lettuce  tem- 
perature. This  makes  nice  plants  by  May  10,  that 
have  fruit  set  the  size  of  persimmons. 

"  Those  set  in  flower  pots  are  moved  into  glass- 
covered  frames  the  last  week  of  April.  The  glass 
is  taken  off  in  mild  weather  and  left  off  at  night 
when  I  am  sure  that  frost  will  not  get  them.  This 
hardens  the  plants  and  it  would  take  quite  a  little 
frost  after  they  have  been  set  in  the  field  seriously 
to  injure  them.  Muslin-covered  frames  will  often 
answer  for  this  hardening  off. 

*T  want  to  caution  against  over-watering  while 
the  plants  are  under  glass.  It  is  much  safer  to 
keep  the  plants  rather  too  dry  than  too  wet.  When 
the  plants  grow  thrifty,  with  a  purple  hue  at  the 
lower  part  of  stem,  one  may  feel  safe  that  they  have 
light  and  water  according  to  their  needs.  If  over- 
crowded and  over-watered  the  plants  will  grow  up 
spindling  and  with  bleached  stems.  Such  plants 
will  never  do  well  if  they  do  live. 

"  I  prefer  high  land  sloping  either  to  east  or  south 
for  early  tomatoes.  Sandy  soil  would  be  best,  but 
I  have  none  but  clay  loam.     This  I  make  rather 


THE   VEGETABLE   GARDEN  235 

rich  by  plowing  under  stable  manure,  20  loads  an 
acre  being  ample  if  the  soil  is  fairly  rich  naturally. 
Plow  the  ground  and  prepare  as  for  corn,  then  set 
plants  4x4.  Those  grown  in  pots  will  scarcely 
wilt  after  setting. 

"  I  am  not  prepared  to  say  whether  or  not  it 
pays  to  stake  and  prune  our  early  tomatoes.  In  a 
wet  season  I  lose  considerable  fruit  by  rot  when 
not  staked.  On  the  other  hand,  I  get  more  fruit 
and  less  of  it  sunscalded  where  I  let  the  vines  fall 
and  grow  as  they  will.  Staking  will  give  ripe  fruit 
earlier.  The  large  growers  near  Jacksonville, 
Kraft,  Lyndale,  and  Morrill  in  Texas  stake  thousands 


:'^r0->''^ 


TOMATO   TRELLIS 


of  acres  and  prune  to  a  single  stem.  This  stem 
they  clip  just  above  the  third  flower  stem  soon 
after  the  fruit  has  set. 

''  When  I  market  my  early  tomatoes  I  use  full- 
size  one-gallon  baskets,  four  to  the  crate,  grade 
the  fruit  closely  and  wipe  every  specimen  with  a 
moist  rag.  One  active  girl  will  wipe  12  to  15 
bushels  or  enough  to  fill  25  to  30  crates  in  a  day. 
This  past  season  I  marketed  Jewels  in  the  Indian- 
apolis market  at  71  to  75  cents  a  crate,  when  Ten- 
nessee stock  was  freely  offered  at  30  to  40  cents  a 
crate. 

"  I  pick  when  the  fruit  begins  to  color,  say,  three 
days  before  it  is  ripe,  and,  if  for  shipment,  pack  and 


22^6  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

ship  at  this  stage.     If  for  home  market  I  wipe  and 
pack,  then  hold  them  until  fully  ripe. 

"  There  are  several  advantages  in  picking 
tomatoes  at  this  stage.  I  have  no  cracked  fruit,  or, 
as  they  are  called,  leaky  packages.  The  energy  of 
the  plant  can  go  toward  ripening  the  next  largest 
specimens,  and  last,  but  not  least,  I  always  have 
a  goodly  supply  on  hand  and  need  not  to  go  in  bad, 
rainy  weather  to  pick  for  next  day's  sales.  I  con- 
sider an  early  start  with  an  early  variety  on  early 
land,  with  proper  grading  and  packing,  the  key  to 
success  with   early  tomatoes." 

EARLY  TOMATOES 

Mrs.  C.  Browning  of  Rhode  Island  gives  the  fol- 
lowing successful  plan  for  raising  early  tomatoes  in 
southern  Rhode  Island,  where  fruit  ripens  the  mid- 
dle of  July,  fully  a  month  earlier  than  formerly: 
"  First,  get  the  best  seed ;  Maule's  Earliest  we  like 
best.  As  early  as  March  I  have  ready  a  shallow 
box  of  sifted  loose  soil,  chip  dirt,  or  leaf  mold  and 
sand,  with  a  little  fertilizer  mixed  in.  Press  hard 
and  wet  thoroughly.  Scatter  the  seed  on  and  cover 
about  twice  the  depth  of  the  seed ;  cover  with  a  pane 
of  glass  and  set  behind  a  stovepipe,  if  possible, 
where  the  soil  will  not  get  cool,  and  keep  sprinkled 
with  warm  water. 

"  The  plants  should  be  well  started  in  three  or 
four  days,  and  ready  to  set  in  the  sunny  window. 
When  four  leaves  are  well  grown,  transplant  to 
larger,  shallow  boxes  or  4-inch  paper  pots,  that  can 
be  bought  for  10  cents  or  less  a  dozen.  We  used 
them  last  year  and  found  them  very  satisfactory. 
By  the  middle  of  April  we  set  the  potted  plants  in 
a  cold  frame,  letting  them  get  used  to  the  air  gradu- 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN  237 

ally,  closing  and  covering  at  night.  We  cannot 
safely  set  in  the  ground  before  May  20.  It  is  better 
to  wait  if  the  winds  are  cold. 

"  Ground  that  has  been  spread  with  stable  manure 
and  plowed  and  harrowed  is  best  for  the  early  fruit. 
Dig  the  holes  deep;  stir  in  a  handful  of  potato 
phosphate.  Soak  the  plants  well  with  water,  loosen 
from  the  pots  and  drop  them  carefully  into  the  hills ; 
cover  to  first  leaves.  Keep  well  hilled  up  for  the 
first  few  weeks.  For  later  picking  plant  Chalk's 
Early  Jewel  or  Acme." 

"  Last  season,"  writes  John  E.  Vail  of  Decatur 
county,  Iowa,  "  I  grew  some  beautiful  tomatoes 
under  a  cheesecloth  frame  covering  about  3  feet 
square  by  4  feet  high,  the  sticks  projecting  so  as  to 
permit  driving  a  short  distance  into  the  earth.  The 
size  of  the  fruit  w^as  very  uniform,  and  when  speci- 
men baskets  were  packed  they  would  rival  those 
of  the  seed  catalogs.  The  best  and  most  uniform 
variety  was  Chalk's  Early  Jewel.  Maule's  Magnif- 
icent was  the  largest  and  showiest,  but  varied  more 
in  size." 

TURNIP 

There  are  two  classes  of  turnips  popularly  grown 
in  this  country — the  purple  and  the  yellow.  The 
former  is  more  popular  as  an  early  variety  than  the 
latter,  which  is  of  finer  flavor,  and  is  the  leading 
fall  and  winter  kind.  Both  crops  are  essentially  cold 
weather  plants,  and,  therefore,  cannot  be  expected 
to  do  best  in  summer.  The  seed  is  sown,  therefore, 
in  early  spring,  or  about  midsummer  so  that  best 
growth  can  be  made  during  cold  weather. 

Friable,  rich,  sandy  loam  is  best  for  both  crops. 
Preferably,  the  land  should  have  been  in  sod  the 


22>S  MAKING  HORTICULTURE   PAY 

previous  year,  or  at  least  not  planted  to  any  vege- 
table of  the  cabbage  family,  such  as  mustard,  cab- 
bage, cauliflower,  etc.  The  rows  are  usually  about 
15  inches  apart  and  the  seed  sown  thickly  and  then 
thinned  to  2  or  3  inches  between  the  plants  when 
these  have  grown  about  6  inches  high.  Late  tur- 
nips are  usually  grown  after  some  early  crop  has 
been  harvested.  They  follow  peas,  snap  beans, 
and  similar  crops  very  well.  Among  the  purple 
varieties  are  Early  Flat,  Early  Milan,  Redtop,  Strap 
Leaf  and  White  Egg.  Among  the  later  kinds,  which 
usually  take  four  weeks  longer  to  mature,  are  Pur- 
ple Top  Swede  and  White  Rock.  Like  other  va- 
rieties, turnips  should  be  stored  for  winter  use  in 
pits  or  root-cellars  as  described  elsewhere. 

WATERCRESS 

Watercress  is  an  aquatic  plant  whose  long-leafed 
stems  are  used  largely  as  a  salad.  It  is  of  the 
simplest  cultivation  where  the  soil  is  very  moist. 
It  does  best,  however,  in  running  water  or  the  edges 
of  brooks.  All  that  is  necessary  is  to  sow  seed 
along  margins  of  the  brook  and  let  the  plants  take 
care  of  themselves.  After  once  being  started  the 
plant  readily  propagates  itself  either  from  seed  or 
by  slips  of  the  root.  These  slips  may  be  pushed 
in  the  soil  and  allowed  to  take  care  of  them- 
selves. Often  watercress  becomes  a  nuisance  where 
it  clogs  the  flow  of  small  streams.  It  is  in  its 
prime  during  late  fall  and  early  spring.  When  it 
begins  to  flower  it  is  rather  too  pungent  for  popular 
taste.  In  many  places  where  the  streams  do  not 
freeze  severely  this  plant  may  be  had  all  winter  in 
perfection. 


CHAPTER  X 
Spraying 

Siantifick  fellers  sez  spraying  7Jiakes  frute  temphn  iu  look  at 
an  tu  eet.  ef  so,  addum  uiust  tcv  spray de  er  eve  newer  ud 
wanted  the  ferbidiin  frute.— Joe  Moggason. 

"  Fruit  growers,  as  a  rule,  understand  that  fungi- 
cides should  be  used  as  preventives,  as  when  the 
spores  have  germinated  and  have  penetrated  the 
tissues  the  fungus  has  passed  beyond  the  reach  of 
a  surface  application.  While  some  benefit  may 
derive  from  spraying  after  the  fungus  is  at  work," 
writes  Prof.  L.  R.  Taft  of  the  Michigan  experiment 
station,  "  it  is  largely,  if  not  entirely,  in  the  way  of 
preventing  the  spread  of  the  disease  to  other  parts 
of  the  plant  or  fruit. 

"  In  a  general  way,  then,  it  can  be  said  that  the 
only  way  to  obtain  perfect  results  from  spraying 
is  to  make  the  first  application  before  the  attack, 
and  renew  it  sufficiently  often  to  keep  all  parts  of 
the  trees  covered  with  the  fungicide  during  the 
period  of  activity. 

*'  So  far  as  the  insecticides  are  concerned,  early 
sprayings  are  also  necessary,  as  nearly  all  of  the 
more  troublesome  insects  injure  plants  by  eating 
the  foliage  or  other  exposed  parts.  Although  they 
can  generally  be  held  in  check  after  the  effect  of 
their  work  has  been  noticed,  it  is  better  to  apply 
the  remedy  just  before  the  larvae  are  likely  to 
appear. 

"  As  a  rule,  it  is  advisable  to  spray,  not  only 
apples,  but  all  other  fruits  just  before  the  blossoms 


240  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

Open.  This  application  will  not  only  destroy  many 
of  the  curculio,  canker  worms  and  other  leaf-eating 
insects,  but  if  done  at  just  the  right  time  the  blos- 
soms and  blossom  stalks  can  be  coated  with  bor- 
deaux, and  can  thus  be  saved  from  the  attack  of 
fungi,  to  which  they  are  subject  if  cold,  wet 
weather  prevails. 

"  A  second  application  should  always  be  made 
within  a  week  after  the  petals  have  fallen.  In  cases 
where  the  first  application  was  made  at  exactly 
the  right  time  and  it  has  not  been  washed  off  it 
will,  perhaps,  be  fully  as  well  to  wait  four  or  five 
days  after  the  petals  of  a  given 
variety  have  dropped,  but  it 
should  by  all  means  be  com- 
pleted within  a  week,  and  the 
sooner  the  better  after  the  petals 
are  off,  unless  one  can  be  sure 
that  the  young  fruits  are  well 
coated  with  the  fungicide.  So  far 
as  the  codling  moth  is  concerned, 
APPLE  CALYCES  ^hc  bcst  time  for  making  this  ap- 
a,  Ready  for  Spray-  plication  will  be  after  the  stamens 

ing;   b.    Too   Late,      j^^^.^  ^^^  ^j^^  ^^  ^^^  ^^p  ^^^  ^^_ 

fore  the  calyx  lobes  close. 

"  The  third  application  should  be  made  about 
two  weeks  after  the  second,  or  within  three  weeks 
from  the  time  the  petals  have  fallen,  having  in  mind 
the  importance  of  keeping  the  fruit  and  foliage 
covered  with  the  spray  mixture,  and  it  may  be 
desirable  in  some  cases  to  shorten  the  period  be- 
tween the  sprayings.  This  will  be  made  at  about 
the  time  that  the  first  larvae  of  the  codling  moth 
hatch.  Eggs  will  have  been  laid  upon  foliage  and 
fruit  over  a  period  of  perhaps  three  weeks,  and  will 
hatch  in  about  ten  days  from  time  they  are  laid. 


SPRAYING  241 

"  This  third  spraying,  then,  should  suffice  to 
destroy  practically  all  of  the  first  brood,  and,  if 
the  second  spraying  was  properly  done,  the  larvae 
that  are  not  destroyed  while  making  their  way  to 
the  calyx  will  be  poisoned  when  they  attempt  to 
eat  into  the  fruit  at  that  point.  One  should  have 
in  mind  the  importance  of  keeping  all  parts  of  the 
trees  coated  with  bordeaux  and  an  arsenite  at  this 
time,  as  a  protection  against  fungous  diseases  and 
the  codling  moth,  as  well  as  other  leaf-eating  in- 
sects. If  this  third  application  is  washed  off  be- 
fore July  I  it  should  be  repeated. 

LATE  SPRAYING 

"  At  least  one  other  application  should  be  made 
to  protect  late  varieties  of  apples  from  the  second 
brood  of  the  codling  moth  and  from  the  attack  of 
apple  scab.  The  second  brood  of  the  codling  moth 
does  not,  as  a  rule,  hatch  before  the  middle  of 
August.  The  season  may  make  a  difference  of  ten 
days  at  any  given  point,  hence  no  positive  date 
can  be  fixed,  especially  as  it  is  not  uncommon  to 
have  the  moths  appear  over  a  period  of  two  to 
three  weeks.  They  generally  continue  to  deposit 
the  eggs  for  a  week  or  ten  days. 

"  A  fifth  application  is  recommended  for  the 
codling  moth  to  be  given  to  winter  varieties  of 
apples  from  August  10  to  15.  For  this  spraying  it 
will  generally  suffice  to  use  only  an  arsenite,  except 
in  cases  where  they  are  very  subject  to  the  attack 
of  apple  scab,  and  where  the  weather  is  favorable 
for  its  development,  especially  if  the  fruit  and  foli- 
age do  not  seem  to  be  well  covered  from  the  fourth 
spraying. 


242 


MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 


"  For  the  spraying  of  grapes,  pears,  cherries,  and 
European  plums,  exactly  the  same  treatment  is 
recommended  so  far  as  the  first,  second,  and  third 
applications   are    concerned.     For   Japanese   plums 


APPARATUS    FOR    COMBATING   PLANT    FOES 

1,  Powder  and  Vaporizing  Bellows;  2,  Garden  Spray  Cart; 
3,  Orchard  Spray  Pump  and  Barrel;  4,  Vaporizing  Gun;  5, 
Knapsack  Sprayer;  6,  Hand  Pump  for  Bucket. 


SPRAYING  243 

the  only  change  would  be  a  slight  reduction  in  the 
strength  of  the  bordeaux,  using  only  2  pounds  of 
copper  sulphate,  where  3,  or  perhaps  4,  pounds 
might  be  used  upon  the  other  fruits. 

SPRAYING  STONE  FRUITS 

"  For  the  spraying  of  peaches  the  substitution  of 
2  pounds  of  copper  sulphate  in  50  gallons  of  water 
is  recommended  in  place  of  the  first  application  of 
bordeaux.  The  spraying  must  be  done  during  the 
latter  half  of  March  or  the  first  half  of  April  as 
preventive  against  the  attack  of  the  leaf  curl.  An 
application  of  weak  bordeaux  and  an  arsenite  can 
also  be  made  to  advantage  within  a  week  after  the 
fruit  has  set  when  the  curculios  are  troublesome, 
or  in  the  case  of  varieties  whose  fruit  is  subject  to 
the  attack  of  brown  spot  and  other  fungous  dis- 
eases. Other  sprayings  are  seldom  desirable  on 
account  of  the  danger  of  injuring  the  foliage. 

"  The  only  exception  would  be  in  the  case  of  the 
early  varieties  of  peaches  and  plums  and  sweet 
cherries,  which  should  be  sprayed  with  either  a 
self-cooked  mixture  of  lime-sulphur  or  with  a 
diluted  solution  when  the  fruits  are  about  three- 
quarters  grown,  provided  the  conditions  are  favor- 
able for  the  attack  of  brown  rot. 

*Tn  the  case  of  grapes  that  have  been  seriously 
injured  by  black  rot,  it  is  often  a  good  plan  to  spray 
the  vines  while  dormant  with  copper  sulphate  solu- 
tion, 2  pounds  in  50  gallons  of  water,  or  with  bor- 
deaux when  the  blossom  buds  first  show,  following 
it  up  with  the  first,  second,  and  third  applications 
mentioned  above.  As  a  rule,  this  will  suffice.  If 
there  is  much  rot  present  the  latter  part  of  July 
upon  unsprayed  vineyards,  and  conditions  are  favor- 


244  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

able  for  its  spread,  another  application,  which  would 
be  the  fifth,  if  the  above  recommendations  are  fol- 
lowed, can  be  often  made  with  profit.  For  this 
spraying  it  will  be  well  to  use  no  more  lime  than 
of  copper  sulphate,  and  a  somewhat  smaller  quan- 
tity might  be  employed,  thus  lessening  the  danger 
of  spotting  the  fruit.  The  same  practice  may  also 
be  followed  when  bordeaux  is  used  upon  winter 
varieties  of  apples  and  pears,  or  upon  late  varieties 
of  plums  after  the  first  of  August." 

LATEST  WORD  ON  SPRAYING 

"  Investigators  of  plant  diseases  have  recently 
advanced  important  new  ideas  on  spraying  fruit 
trees,"  writes  Prof.  F.  C.  Stewart  of  the  New  York 
experiment  station.  "  In  circular  No.  i,  of  the 
bureau  of  plant  industry,  W.  M.  Scott  announces 
that  he  has  devised  a  cheap  and  easily  prepared 
lime-sulphur  mixture  which  can  be  used  on  peaches 
and  other  fruit  trees  during  the  growing  season 
without  injury  to  foliage  or  fruit.  He  calls  it  the 
self-boiled  lime-sulphur  mixture.  His  experiments 
made  in  Missouri  show  it  to  be  highly  efficient  in 
the  control  of  peach  rot  and  scab.  The  best  pro- 
portions of  lime  and  sulphur  have  not  been  deter- 
mined definitely. 

"  The  mixture  that  gave  the  most  promising  re- 
sults was  composed  of  lo  pounds  of  sulphur,  15 
pounds  of  fresh  stone  lime,  and  50  gallons  of  water. 
The  lime  is  slaked  with  a  few  gallons  of  hot  water. 
The  sulphur  is  added  immediately  and  thoroughly 
stirred  into  the  boiling  lime.  The  only  heat  used 
is  that  generated  by  the  slaking  of  the  lime.  After 
boiling  ceases,  enough  water  is  added  to  make  50 


SPRAYING  245 

gallons.     The  mixture  is  then  strained  through  a 
20-mesh  sieve  and  applied  with  a  spray  pump. 

**  If  this  new  fungicide  proves  to  have  the  quali- 
ties claimed  for  it,  it  will  certainly  be  a  great  thing 
for  peaches  and  may  be  useful  for  other  fruits. 
However,  we  warn  fruit  growers  against  using  it 
extensively  until  they  have  thoroughly  tested  it 
on  a  small  scale.  In  the  past,  heavy  losses  have 
sometimes  resulted  from  the  use  of  new  spray  mix- 
tures. It  is  best  to  go  slowly  with  these  new 
things.  We  understand  that  Mr.  Scott  made  fur- 
ther experiments  in  1908,  but  the  results  have  not 
yet  been  published. 

"  Prof.  A.  B.  Cordley  of  the  Oregon  station  also 
has  a  lime-sulphur  mixture,  which  he  claims  can 
be  safely  used  on  the  foliage  of  fruit  trees.  He 
calls  it  the  stock  solution  method  of  preparing  lime- 
sulphur  mixture.  He  makes  a  stock  solution  of 
lime  and  sulphur,  which  gives  a  hydrometer  test 
of  1.27.  Each  gallon  contains  2.38  pounds  of  sul- 
phur. Diluted  with  15  parts  of  water  this  did  not 
injure  the  foliage  of  apple,  pear,  plum,  grape, 
potato,  and  celery,  but  did  injure  the  peach.  He 
states  that  apple  trees  sprayed  three  times  with 
this  mixture  gave  79.3  per  cent  of  scab-free  fruit, 
while  unsprayed  trees  gave  only  19.9  per  cent,  and 
trees  sprayed  with  bordeaux  49.1  per  cent  of  scab- 
free  fruit.  Moreover,  the  fruit  sprayed  with  lime- 
sulphur  was  free  from  spray  injury,  while  39.1  per 
cent  of  the  fruits  receiving  bordeaux  showed  spray 
injury. 

"  While  we  do  not  question  the  veracity  of  Profes- 
sor Cordley,  we  cannot  believe  that  the  lime-sulphur 
mixture,  in  any  formi,  is  really  more  efficient  than 
bordeaux  for  the  control  of  apple  scab.  A  mis- 
take  has    been    made    somehow.     Our    advice   to 


246  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

apple  growers  is  to  continue  to  use  3-3-50  bordeaux 
as  in  the  past. 

"  Probably  many  fruit  growers  have  been  alarmed 
by  Colorado  station  bulletin  No.  131,  on  arsenical 
poisoning  of  fruit  trees.  It  is  stated  that  in  Colo- 
rado apple  trees  suffer  from  a  disease  in  which  the 
crown  of  the  tree  is  girdled,  the  bark  on  portions 
of  the  trunk  dead  and  sunken,  and  most  of  the 
roots  dead.  Dr.  Headden,  the  station  chemist,  who 
made  an  investigation  of  this  trouble,  concludes  that 
it  is  due  to  arsenic  in  the  soil.  When  trees  are 
sprayed  with  arsenate  of  lead  or  arsenite  of  lime, 
these  substances  eventually  find  their  way  into  the 
soil  and  accumulate  there. 

"  According  to  Dr.  Headden,  the  alkali  in  the 
Colorado  soil  renders  the  arsenic  soluble,  so  that  it 
may  be  absorbed  by  the  apple  roots.  That  arsenic 
in  soluble  form  is  extremely  poisonous  to  plants  is 
well  known.  Dr.  Headden  analyzed  the  soil  under 
dying  trees  and  found  it  to  contain  arsenic  in  dan- 
gerously large  quantities.  He  also  found  arsenic 
in  the  wood  of  diseased  trees.  He  holds  that  spray- 
ing with  arsenical  compounds  is  responsible  for  the 
death  of  the  trees. 

"  In  the  minds  of  eastern  orchardists  who  read 
this  bulletin,  the  question  will  naturally  arise.  Does 
this  apply  to  orchards  in  the  east?  In  the  past  it 
has  been  assumed  that,  in  our  soils,  the  arsenical 
compounds  used  in  spraying  retain  the  insoluble 
form  and  so  are  not  harmful  to  the  trees." 


CHAPTER  XI 

Ornamentals 

A  fiower  garde7i  it  ill  grow  more  good  tJwughts,  kindly  ads, 
smiles  and  pure  joy  to  tJie  inch  than  the  best  acre  on  thefarjn. 

— Ajnerican  Agriculturist. 

The  one  thing  necessary  to  make  most  farms  at- 
tractive is  ornamental  planting  around  the  house 
and  buildings.  The  plants  used  need  not  be  expen- 
sive, they  need  not  demand  much  attention,  they 
need  not  be  imported,  they  need  only  to  be  appro- 
priate to  their  positions.  A  great  many  mistakes 
are  made  in  planting  trees  and  shrubs  by  scattering 
them  in  a  meaningless  way  over  the  ground.  The 
one  thing  to  remember  in  planning  an  ornamental 
garden  is  to  have  the  whole  thing  form  a  picture ; 
that  is,  every  plant  should  be  in  such  a  position 
that  it  will  form  part  of  the  frame  in  which  the 
main  feature  of  the  place,  the  house,  is  rendered 
more  beautiful  and  homelike. 

If  the  shrubs  and  trees  are  scattered  over  the 
lawn,  each  one  will  claim  its  individual  share  of 
attention  and  will  detract  from  the  house  itself; 
whereas,  if  they  are  grouped  around  the  borders  of 
the  place  so  as  to  leave  the  main  portion  of  the 
yard  in  grass,  the  effect  will  be  greatly  improved, 
because  the  lawn  will  give  a  restful  air  to  the  place. 
No  matter  how  large  or  how  small  the  yard  may 
be,  the  planting  of  ornamentals  should  be  at  the 
sides  except  for  such  necessary  trees,  vines,  etc., 
as  will  partially  shade  the  porches  and  windows  of 
the  house  itself.     Even  these  trees  should  be  placed 

217 


248 


MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 


SO  they  will  not  produce  an  undue  amount  of  shade 
upon  the  house,  and  thus  render  it  gloomy  from 
the  inside.  Too  often  trees  are  planted  close  to 
the  building  without  regard  to  the  size  they  will 
attain  when  full  grown.  It  is  folly  to  plant  Nor- 
way spruces,  sugar  maples,  white  oaks,  and  similar 


HOME   GREENHOUSE 


large  growing  trees  almost  within  arm's  length  of 
the  building.  They  cannot  attain  their  best  de- 
velopment and  are  sure  to  cast  too  much  shade. 

OBJECTIONS   AGAINST   BEDS 

For  best  effects  flower  beds  should  not  be  used. 
If  they  are  used  at  all,  they  should  never  be  in  the 


ORNAMENTALS  249 

center  of  the  lawn.  Their  proper  positions  are  at 
the  base  of  the  building  wall,  along  the  fence  and 
in  angles  of  walks.  The  principal  objection  to  the 
flower  bed  is  that  it  is  not  attractive  during  more 
than  half  the  year,  and  it  requires  much  more  at- 
tention than  the  well-planted  flower  border.  Many- 
people  who  have  been  depending  upon  beds  for 
blossoms  and  not  receiving  a  reasonable  return  for 
the  labor  expended,  will  rejoice  in  the  wealth  of 
bloom  that  can  be  secured  with  a  tenth  of  the  work 
in  the  flower  border. 

Too  often  the  beds  are  filled  with  plants  that 
have  been  struggling  through  the  winter  in  the 
windows,  and  which  suffer  more  or  less  from  the 
changed  conditions  when  put  out  of  doors.  When 
turned  loose,  they  become  victims  of  wind  and  sun 
and  it  is  usually  midsummer  before  they  begin  to 
be  attractive.  All  this  time  they  receive  far  more 
attention  than  they  are  worth,  and  far  more  than 
would  be  necessary  to  bestow  upon  a  natural  plan- 
tation of  several  times  the  size.  The  natural  plan- 
tation produces  flowers  because  it  wants  to.  By 
proper  selection  of  varieties,  it  will  start  when  the 
bluebirds  begin  to  sing  and  will  continue  all 
through  the  season  until  Jack  Frost  comes  to  stay 
for  the  following  winter.  Even  during  the  winter, 
many  of  the  trees  and  shrubs  are  attractive  because 
of  their  colored  bark  and  fruits;  so  that  instead 
of  having  a  mud  hole  on  the  lawn  for  six  or  eight 
months  of  the  year,  one  has  the  restful  and  pleasing 
border  to  look  at  for  twelve  months. 

THE  BEAUTIES  OF  BORDERS 

The  chief  beauty  about  the  border  is  that  one  can 
change  it  continually  and  add  to  it  at  frequent  in- 


250  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

tervals  whenever  the  opportunity  presents.  In 
many  sections  it  is  not  necessary  to  buy  a  single 
plant  for  such  a  border.  The  woods  and  fence 
rows  are  filled  with  plants  that  can  be  had  for  the 
digging  and  that  will  repay  transplanting.  Among 
the  shrubs  that  grow  wild  in  many  places  are 
rhododendrons,  viburnums,  alder,  elder,  azalea, 
miagnolia,  sweet  briar,  judas  tree,  spice  bush,  thorn, 
spiraea,  flowering  raspberry,  juniper,  laurel,  ma- 
honia,  burning  bush,  sumac,  dogwood,  various  small 
cherries,  and  scores  of  others. 

Shrubs  should  be  planted  at  intervals  and  in 
groups  so  that  different  parts  of  the  plantation  will 
be  attractive  at  different  seasons,  and  also  so  that 
there  will  be  plenty  of  room  among  them  for  hardy 
perennial  plants.  These  perennials  will  be  found 
far  more  effective,  attractive  and  far  less  trouble- 
some than  annuals,  because,  with  ordinary  atten- 
tion, they  will  remain  interesting  for  years.  It  is 
a  great  mistake,  however,  to  grow  this  class  of 
plants  continuously  in  the  same  place.  They 
should  be  moved  to  new  ground  at  intervals  of 
several  years.  As  a  rule  this  can  be  very  easily 
done  in  the  spring.  The  way  to  know  when  it  is 
time  to  move  any  kind  is  to  note  when  it  begins  to 
fail  in  its  present  position.  As  soon  as  it  ceases 
to  thrive  it  should  be  mowed. 

LIST  OF  HARDY  PERENNIALS 

Among  the  immense  list  of  hardy  perennials  that 
anyone  can  grow  the  following  can  be  procured 
for  very  insignificant  cost,  even  if  they  do  not  grow 
in  the  woods,  fence  rows,  or  neighbors'  gardens: 
Columbine,  larkspur,  peony,  perennial  poppies,  wild 
asters,  goldenrod,  gasplant,  snapdragon,  coneflower 


ORNAMENTALS 


251 


(golden  glow),  perennial  pea,  hop,  yucca,  phlox 
clematis,  anemone,  iris,  sacaline,  gaillardia,  blue- 
bells, shooting  star,  hellebore,  moss  pink,  lychnis 
saxifrage,  perennial  chrysanthemum,  funkia,  babies 


VENTILATOR  FOR  GREENHOUSE 

breath,  sedum,  blazing  star,  beard-tongue,  Joe- 
Pye  weed,  cardinal  flower,  forget-me-not,  eulalia, 
Arundo  Donax,  candytuft,  English  daisy,  Canterbury 
bell,  bleeding-heart,  hollyhock,  zebra  grass,  fragrant 
balm,  coral  bells,  bloodroot,  and  hundreds  of  others. 


252  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

In  addition  to  these,  are  the  many  bulbous  plants 
which  may  be  relied  upon  to  produce  flowers  prin- 
cipally in  early  spring  and  summer.  These  must 
usually  be  purchased.  Preferably  they  are  almost 
all  planted  in  the  autumn  for  blossoming  the  fol- 
lowing spring,  but  may  be  allowed  to  remain  in 
the  ground  from  year  to  year  as  long  as  they  thrive. 
Among  the  general  favorites  of  this  class  are 
crocus,  daffodil,  hyacinth,  jonquil,  narcissus,  tulip, 
crown  imperial,  glory-of-the-snow,  snowdrop, 
snowflake,  and  squill.  There  are  also  other  bulbs 
and  plants  usually  classed  with  such  by  seedsmen 
which  should  be  planted  in  the  spring  and  taken 
up  in  the  autumn  for  storage  where  they  will  not 
freeze.  Among  these  are  gladiolus,  tiger  flower, 
zephyr  flower,  canna,  dahlia,  elephant's  ear,  and 
tuberose.  Besides  all  these  there  are  scores  of 
other  plants  of  the  bulbous  class  from  which  to 
select.  Among  them  are  the  harebells,  lilies,  be- 
gonias, lily-of-the-valley,  and  many  other  general 
favorites. 

Now  all  of  these  plants  mentioned  can  be  grown 
with  far  less  attention  than  geraniums,  carnations 
or  any  other  plant  moved  from  the  cellar  or  the 
house  window  to  the  garden  and  coddled  for  weeks 
to  induce  them  to  bloom.  Not  that  the  writer  has 
anything  to  say  against  any  house  plant.  He  is  a 
lover  of  plants  in  general,  but  for  the  busy  farmer's 
wife  and  daughters  who  have  to  make  the  best  use 
of  their  time,  the  writer  believes  that  far  more  en- 
joyment can  be  secured  at  far  less  expense  both  for 
labor  and  outlay  of  money  from  the  plants  in  the 
above  lists  than  from  any  house  specimens  placed 
for  the  summer  in  a  flower  bed. 

House  specimens  should  be  given  a  position  by 
themselves  where  they  will  be  sheltered  from  the 


ORNAMENTALS  253 

wind,  and  where  they  will  rest  up  lor  the  follow- 
ing winter's  work  in  the  windows.  They  should  not 
be  made  to  do  double  duty  both  summer  and  win- 
ter. The  border  should  supply  armfuls  of  bloom 
all  season  through  and  should  not  look  bare  if 
bouquets  are  cut  in  abundance.  If  the  soil  is  good 
and  plenty  of  plants  are  put  in,  there  will  not  be  a 
minute  of  daylight  when  the  flower  border  will  be 
unattractive. 

One  of  the  principal  beauties  of  the  plants  men- 
tioned is  that  they  do  not  require  any  special  care 
in  growing.  All  that  is  necessary  is  to  put  them 
anywhere  desired,  firm  the  soil  around  them  and 
let  them  go.  But  if  a  few  do  not  grow,  there  are 
plenty  more  in  the  woods  and  fence  rows  to  take 
their  places,  and  one  can  be  adding  plants  to  the 
flower  border  from  time  to  time  all  through  the 
season.  The  writer  knows  one  man  who  has  just 
such  a  border  stuffed  full  of  all  kinds  of  things. 
He  takes  frequent  walks  and  will  often  dig  up  a 
plant  in  midsummer,  using  only  a  dead  limb  for 
a  spade,  and,  if  necessary,  carrying  the  plant  home 
in  his  pocket.  With  such  rough  treatment,  of 
course,  some  plants  die,  but  it  is  surprising  what  a 
beautiful  and  attractive  border  he  has — almost  all 
of  it  wild  plants  gathered  in  the  neighborhood. 

ANNUALS   LOSING   POPULARITY 

If  one  must  have  annuals,  let  these  be  planted  in 
rows  like  vegetable  crops  in  some  part  of  the  gar- 
den where  they  will  not  interfere  with  the  general 
effect  of  the  place,  and  where  they  can  be  clipped  for 
bouquets  without  spoiling  the  looks  of  the  garden. 
As  a  rule,  annuals  used  for  cutting  are  not  attract- 
ive after  the  plants  have  been  cut,  hence  the  ad- 


254  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

visability  of  having  them  separate  from  the  main 
garden.  Most  of  the  annuals,  even  the  general 
favorites,  are  rather  a  bother  to  have  in  good  con- 
dition. They  demand  too  much  time  and  attention, 
but  very  few  women  will  be  satisfied  to  do  without 
some  of  them.  Among  the  most  popular  are  sweet 
peas,  balsams,  China  aster,  mignonette,  marigold, 
nasturtium,  pansy,  morning  glory,  verbena,  petunia, 
cosmos,  stock,  besides  a  host  of  others  from  which 
to  choose,  but  the  hardy  perennial  herbs  and  the 
shrubs  are  of  so  much  less  bother  and  afiford  such  a 
wonderful  variety  of  color  and  form  that  the  an- 
nuals are  decreasing  in  favor  wherever  the  other 
plants  mentioned  are  becoming  known. 

If  any  farm  woman  will  plant  part  of  her  yard 
to  the  hardy  stuff  and  love  it  enough  she  will  find 
that  in  five  years  she  will  be  growing  almost  none 
of  the  annual  flowers,  and  will  rely  upon  hardy  bor- 
ders for  bouquets  as  well  as  outdoor  ornamentals. 

TREES   FOR  THE   FARMSTEAD 

In  most  farm  gardens  there  is  room  enough  for 
at  least  a  few  trees.  These  should  be  well  chosen 
and  planted  as  early  as  possible  after  the  site  for 
the  house  has  been  determined.  If  the  house  is 
already  in  place  and  trees  are  not  around  it,  they 
should  be  planted  in  spring  or  fall  at  the  earliest 
chance.  Every  year  these  will  be  growing  more 
and  more  attractive  until  they  become  full  grown, 
when  they  will  add  to  the  homelikeness  of  the  place 
more  than  any  other  one  class  of  plants. 

BEST  TREES  TO  PLANT 

Among  the  most  popular  and  best  for  planting 
around  the  house  are :     Basswood,  chestnut,  Amer- 


ORNAMENTALS 


255 


ican  elm,  horse  chestnut,  sugar  maple,  locust,  honey 
locust,  white  pine,  Norway  spruce,  Kentucky 
coffee  tree,  various  magnolias,  yellow  wood,  catalpa, 
golden  chain,  great  laurel,  red  maple,  white  oak, 
pepperidge,  sweet  gum,  whitewood,  paper  birch, 
yellow  willow,  mountain  ash,  maidenhair  tree, 
shadbush  and  Judas  tree.  Many  of  these  are 
highly  attractive  because  of  their  flowers,  others 
are  interesting  because  of 
their  color  and  almost 
all  are  beautiful  in  their 
foliage.  Many  of  them 
can  be  secured  in  nearby 
woods  and  often  from 
nurserymen  at  very  rea- 
sonable prices. 

One  thing  about  plant- 
ing trees  around  the  home 
is  to  avoid  using  too 
many.  It  is  better  to  use 
two  or  three  of  one  kind 
in  a  group  than  to  scatter 
the  specimens  over  the 
place  and  thus  give  a  nur- 
sery effect  rather  than  a 
home  effect. 


HOME    GREENHOUSE 


VINES    GIVE    HOMELIKE    EFFECT 


The  home  idea  can  also  be  accentuated  by  the 
use  of  vines.  On  brick  and  stone  work,  nothing 
is  so  satisfactory  as  Boston  ivy.  It  requires  no 
supports,  since  it  clings  to  the  bricks.  Contrary  to 
the  popular  belief,  ivies  which  cling  in  this  way  do 
not  produce  dampness  in  the   house;    they  draw 


256 


MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 


moisture  from  the  walls  through  their  tiny  root- 
lets along  the  stems.  For  a  porch  climber  which 
will  produce  a  deep  shade,  the  Dutchman's  pipe  is 
the  most  satisfactory.  Its  huge  leaves,  as  big  as 
dinner  plates,  its  hardiness  and  rapid  growth,  com- 
mend it  to  every  one.  In  localities  not  too  cold 
and  on  the  north  sides  of  buildings  English  ivy  is 
an   excellent  climber  upon   brick  and   stone  work, 

but  where  exposed 
to  the  sun  during 
winter  it  is  apt  to 
be  injured. 

An  excellent 
porch  climber, 
also  useful  for 
training  on  tree 
stumps  and  posts, 
is  the  trumpet 
creeper,  which  has 
large  orange-red 
blossoms.  Wistaria 
is  another  porch 
climber  of  much 
the  same  class,  but 
with  clusters  of 
lavender  colored 
blossoms.  There  are  many  honeysuckles  useful  not 
only  for  their  pretty  flowers,  but  for  their  perfumes. 
Perennial  pea  is  excellent  for  training  over  rocks 
and  on  trellises.  The  moonflower  is  an  interesting 
climber  for  a  porch  pillar.  The  variegated  variety 
of  Japanese  hop  is  particularly  attractive  when 
trained   against  a   dark   background. 

Besides  all  these,  there  are  numerous  less  well- 
known  climbers,  such  as  actinidia,  various  species 
of  clematis,  akebia,  silk  vine,  scarlet  running  bean. 


CELLARWAY   GREENHOUSE 


ORNAMENTALS  257 

the  canary-bird  flower,  cinnamon  vine,  and  bitter- 
sweet. These  will  do  well  on  almost  any  soil  and 
situation  and  will  add  greatly  to  the  attractiveness 
of  the  house  as  the  principal  object  in  a  farm  home 
picture 

SMALL    HOME    GLASS    HOUSES 

As  an  adjunct  to  many  farm  homes,  a  small  con- 
servatory or  greenhouse  will  add  greatly  to  the 
wife's  and  daughter's  enjoyment  of  flowers  during 
the  winter.  Such  structures  need  not  be  costly  nor 
large.  An  area  lo  by  15  feet  will  supply  all  the 
needs  of  the  household,  both  for  flowers  and  for 
such  small  winter  vegetables  as  parsley,  radishes, 
young  onions,  peppergrass,  lettuce  and  many  other 
plants,  and  often  mushrooms  can  be  grown  under- 
neath the  benches. 

Such  glass  structure  may  be  placed  in  the  angle 
of  the  house  on  the  south  side  where  the  walls  will 
form  the  rear  and  at  least  one  end  of  the  structure 
itself.  This  will  greatly  reduce  the  cost  of  con- 
struction. Perhaps  the  simplest  kind  to  make  is 
a  lean-to  on  the  veranda.  All  that  is  necessary  in 
such  cases  is  to  fill  in  the  spaces  between  the  posts 
with  glass  sash.  Of  course  better  results  can  be 
gained  if  the  roof  is  also  of  glass,  but  no  one  need 
take  off  the  veranda  roof  to  make  a  conservatory. 
It  is  better  to  place  the  conservatory  somewhere 
else.  The  veranda  should  be  not  less  than  5  feet 
wide  to  get  satisfactory  results.  Eight  or  9  feet 
would  be  much  better.  The  framework  should  be 
permanent  as  should  also  the  roof,  except  where 
only  temporary  sashes  are  employed.  In  such 
cases  the  conservatory  will  probably  be  less  warm 
than  where  permanently  put  up. 


258 


MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 


In  a  permanent  conservatory  it  is  advantageous 
to  have  a  coil  of  pipe  from  the  furnace  so  as  to 
keep  the  place  warm  and  thus  make  it  possible  to 
grow  more  tender  plants  than  can  usually  be  grown 
in  temporary  structures.  There  should  be  a  door 
going  to  the  outside  as  well  as  in  to  the  dwelling 
from  the  conservatory.  Preferably  these  doors 
should  be  opposite  each  other.  It  is  also  advan- 
tageous to  have  part  of  the  wall  between  the  dwell- 


PERMANENT  PLANT  PIT  AND  HOTBED 


ing  and  the  conservatory  made  of  glass  so  the 
plants  can  be  seen  from  the  living  room.  Ventila- 
tion can  be  very  simply  secured  by  having  a  hinged 
window  either  at  the  top  of  the  vertical  frame  or 
in  the  roof  of  the  permanent  structure. 

Often  a  cellarway  can  be  utilized  for  growing 
hardy  and  half-hardy  plants  by  replacing  the  doors 
with  glass  sash.  This  will  be  particularly  useful 
in  starting  plants  early  in  the  spring,  and  thus  will 
replace  the  hotbed  and  cold  frame  to  a  large  extent. 


ORNAMENTALS  259 

In  severe  weather  it  may  be  covered  with  carpet 
to  protect  the  plants  from  the  cold.  By  opening 
the  door  into  the  cellar  below  the  temperature  will 
be  kept  fairly  even,  especially  if  there  is  a  furnace 
in  the  cellar. 

Another  very  satisfactory  plan  of  growing  hardy 
plants  without  heat  is  to  have  a  permanent  plant- 
pit  built  of  brick,  and  sunk  4  or  5  feet  in  the 
ground.  In  the  bottom  can  be  placed  such  plants 
as  should  be  kept  for  winter — dahlias,  cannas,  ge- 
raniums, etc.  Across  the  pit  on  a  level  with  the 
ground  surface  should  be  a  floor  covered  with  6  or 
8  inches  of  soil  in  which  lettuce,  pansies,  violets, 
young  onions,  cabbage,  and  any  other  semi-hardy 
plants  can  be  grown  during  the  winter  to  supply 
the  home  table  with  crisp  salads,  blossoms,  and 
early  spring  plants  for  transplanting. 

FAVORITE  PERENNIALS 

"  The  great  mistake  in  growing  hardy  peren- 
nials," writes  the  late  C.  L.  Allen  of  Long  Island, 
New  York,  "  is  the  almost  general  opinion  that 
when  once  planted  they  can  forever  remain  in 
the  same  place  without  further  care  or  at- 
tention. This  is  a  fatal  error  from  the  fact 
of  its  being  in  direct  opposition  to  the  uni- 
versal law  that  the  rotation  of  crops  is  an 
agricultural  necessity.  The  period  that  some 
plants  will  thrive  in  a  given  locality  much  longer 
than  others,  as  is  the  case  with  arborescent  plants, 
many  of  which  require  centuries  to  perfect  their 
growth,  does  not  detract  from  this  principle  in  the 
least. 

All  of  our  herbaceous  plants  require  frequent 
changes  of  locality,  because  they  have  taken  from 


260  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

a  given  soil  a  certain  active  principle  essential  to 
their  growth,  and  will  no  longer  thrive  in  that  place 
until  nature,  through  her  own  resources,  has  re- 
stored the  elements  essential  to  their  growth.  Space 
will  not  permit  our  going  over  the  whole  list  of 
those  desirable  plants,  so  we  shall  give  cultural 
instructions  for  only  a  few  of  the  most  essential, 
with  the  understanding  that  these  rules,  with  slight 
modifications,  will  apply  to  all.  As  a  rule,  it  is  safe 
to  conclude  that  when  any  plant  ceases  to  thrive 
vigorously,  a  change  of  soil  is  an  absolute  necessity 
as  is  also  a  division  of  its  crowns  of  tubers. 

PHLOX 

"  Perennial  phlox  is  one  of  the  most  useful  of 
our  hardy  plants,  not  only  because  of  the  great 
variety  of  color  and  marking  of  their  flowers,  but  be- 
cause of  the  fact  that  with  proper  care  and  attention 
they  will  keep  in  flower  much  longer  than  almost  any 
other  of  this  class  of  plants.  They  should  be  taken 
up  every  spring  and  the  plants  separated  to  a  single 
shoot,  and  not  returned  to  the  same  place  in  the 
border.  The  distance,  however,  from  where  they 
grow  need  not  be  great.  When  rootbound  the 
phlox  will  not  produce  such  magnificent  trusses  of 
flowers  as  when  occasionally  separated. 

*'  Phloxes  are  gross  feeders,  requiring  strong 
soil,  made  rich  with  well-rotted  manure,  which 
should  be  thoroughly  incorporated  in  the  soil. 
In  light  soils,  to  get  satisfactory  results,  a  suf- 
ficient mulch  of  coarse  litter  to  keep  the  soil 
moist  and  cool  is  essential.  The  single  plants 
should  be  set  6  inches  apart  each  way,  in  clumps  or 
rows  in  the  border,  and  when  the  flower  buds  ap- 
pear,  cut   back,    say,   one-half  of   the   plants,   just 


ORNAMENTALS  261 

below  the  flowering  buds;  this  will  cause  them  to 
throw  out  flowering"  branches  at  the  axil  of  each 
leaf  and  keep  up  a  succession  of  flowers  until  the 
chrysanthemums  appear. 

**  If  the  first  flowers  are  cut  for  table  decoration, 
the  plants  quickly  throw  out  new  branches,  which 
will  keep  up  a  succession.  When  the  plants  are 
allowed  to  remain  undisturbed,  the  flowers  will  soon 
grow  smaller  and  lose  vigor  and  intensity  of  color, 
simply  from  the  want  of  nourishment  from  both  air 
and  earth. 

HARDY   CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

"  So  far  as  cultivation  goes,  chrysanthemums  and 
the  phloxes  require  the  same  general  treatment. 
The  former  should  be  set  singly  as  soon  as  they 
show  growth  in  spring,  and  given  a  good,  rich,  and 
deep  soil  which  should  have  a  liberal  mulch  if  the 
soil  is  naturally  dry  and  sunny.  Set  the  plants  I 
foot  apart  each  way;  when  6  inches  high,  nip  the 
tops  from  all.  Side  branches  will  quickly  appear, 
making  vigorous  growth.  About  the  middle  of 
July  nip  the  terminal  bud  from  each  branch  to 
cause  plants  to  become  strong  and  bushy ;  and  when 
season  for  flowers  arrives,  plants  will  be  loaded. 

"  If  large  flowers  are  required,  disbud  as  is  the 
custom  of  the  florist  with  the  more  tender  sorts. 
By  leaving  only  the  terminal  bud  to  each  branch  the 
flowers  will  be  double  the  size  of  those  on  the 
plants  where  all  the  buds  are  allowed  to  perfect 
their  flowers.  We  must,  however,  say  we  are  not 
in  happy  accord  with  the  disbudding  process.  The 
chrysanthemum  is  the  culmination  of  the  season, 
and  we  like  to  encourage  the  plant  to  produce  as 
many  flowers  as  possible  without  regard  to  size. 


262  MAKING    HORTICULTURE    PAY 

LARKSPURS  EASY  TO  GROW 

"  There  are  but  few  plants  in  the  garden  so  gen- 
erally useful  as  the  delphiniums;  in  fact,  they  are 
indispensable,  and  are  grown  with  the  least  possible 
trouble.  They  will  grow  anywhere,  and  with  a 
little  trouble  the  flowers  can  be  had  nearly  the 
whole  season.  The  old  clumps  will  come  into 
flower  in  early  June,  and  by  cutting  half  the  plants 
down  to,  say,  within  a  foot  of  the  ground,  before 
they  show  flower,  a  new  growth  will  soon  be  made 
to  keep  up  a  succession.  In  early  spring  sow  a  few 
seeds  in  small  pots  in  the  house,  or  in  a  hotbed  or 
greenhouse,  and  they  will  come  into  flower  just 
before  the  frost,  a  few  degrees  of  which  does  not 
injure  them.  We  prefer  growing  a  few  seeds  an- 
nually to  the  division  of  clumps,  as  young  plants  do 
much  better  than  old  ones.  When  the  old  plants 
begin  to  wane,  throw  out  and  replace  with  young 
ones.  The  delphiniums  will  show  by  their  flowers 
a  just  appreciation  of  all  the  care  and  attention  paid 
them,  and  they  fully  deserve  all  they  get. 

*'  Dictamnus  fraxinella,  the  well-known  gas  plant, 
so  called  because  its  flowers,  on  opening,  emit  a  gas 
that  may  be  readily  ignited  by  holding  a  lighted 
match  over  the  flowers  during  the  evening,  when 
the  gas  is  emitted  most  freely.  This  plant  will 
thrive  almost  anywhere  and  under  all  circum- 
stances. It  seems  to  delight  in  neglect,  and  in  a 
solitary  position,  whether  in  shade,  or  in  partial 
shade,  and  in  soil  too  poor,  seemingly,  to  sustain 
plant  life.  This  plant  can  be  propagated  only  from 
seeds,  which  must  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe.  Plants 
of  the  Dictamnus  have  been  known  to  live  in  one 
place  for  75  years." 

The  foxglove  family  is  old  and  well  known.     The 


ORNAMENTALS  263 

most  common  is  Digitalis  grandiflora.  These  plants 
are  the  most  showy  and  intensely  beautiful  as  well 
as  the  most  easily  managed,  hardy  perennials.  They 
will  remain  long  undisturbed,  and  can  be  removed 
without  injury.  They  are  propagated  readily  from 
seed,  which  should  be  sown  like  common  garden 
annuals.  Their  long  season  of  flowering  is  an  ex- 
cellent feature  for  border  plants. 

CAMPANULAS  AND  IRISES 

"  The  campanulas  are  the  old-fashioned  flowers 
of  our  childhood,  worthy  of  a  place  in  every  garden. 
They  thrive  in  almost  any  situation,  even  under 
the  shade  of  trees.  Campanula  grandiflora,  now 
called  Platycodon  grandiflorum,  of  which  there  are 
two  varieties,  one  with  white,  the  other  with  purple 
flowers,  is  a  charming  plant.  It  comes  into  flower 
after  the  others  have  completed  their  work,  thus 
keeping  up  a  succession.  One  of  the  virtues  of  this 
species  is  that  it  can  be  removed  without  injury  or 
remain  for  a  long  period  without  removal.  The 
Turban  Bellflower,  another  late  flowering  sort,  is 
one  of  the  most  useful.  The  flowers  are  salver- 
shaped,  and  very  large  for  the  size  of  the  plant, 
which  grows  only  6  to  8  inches  tall.  It  is  a  charm- 
ing plant  for  the  border.  There  are  many  species, 
all  desirable  and  of  easy  cultivation. 

"  Where  there  is  plenty  of  room  the  iris  should 
be  largely  grown  in  the  herbaceous  border.  A  col- 
lection of  well-assorted  species  will  furnish  flowers 
at  least  from  May  until  July.  If  there  is  but  little 
space  it  can  be  more  profitably  filled  with  other 
plants.  However,  there  is  one  species.  Iris  Kaenip- 
feri,  that  should  be  found  in  every  collection  of 
choice  plants.     The  flowers  are  large  and  vary  in 


264  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

color  from  white  to  dark  maroon  and  purple,  both 
single  and  double,  with  every  shade  of  markings  in 
blotches,  stripes,  and  pencilings.  The  iris  will 
grow  in  almost  any  soil,  but  prefers  a  lively  loam 
and  a  moist  or  wet  situation.  It  will  thrive  in  a 
marshy  soil  or  beside  a  brook. 

"  In  ordinary  seasons  in  this  climate  the  flowers 
will  not  come  up  to  expectations  unless  the  soil  is 
moist.  Deep  cultivation  is  also  desirable,  as  the 
roots  will  go  down  at  least  2  feet  i»n  search  of 
moisture,  if  it  is  not  provided  for  them  nearer  the 
surface.  To  secure  moisture  in  a  dry  location  a 
liberal  mulching  is  needed.  Unlike  most  plants  so 
fond  of  damp  situations,  the  iris  dislikes  shade  and 
thrives  best  in  a  hot,  airy  place.  Propagation  is 
easily  effected  by  division  or  from  seed.  The 
former  method  is  preferred,  as  a  bed  of  seedlings 
gives  but  a  small  proportion  of  choice  flowers. 
Division  should  always  be  made  in  autumn,  and  it 
is  best  not  to  let  the  clumps  die  out  in  the  centers. 
In  the  ordinary  garden  the  best  results  can  be  ob- 
tained only  by  deep  cultivation,  heavy  manuring, 
and  deep  mulching.  With  such  treatment  the  open 
border  will  show  clumps  of  plants  bearing  flowers 
that  rival  the  orchids. 

PEONIES  NEED  SPACE 

"  While  the  peony  belongs  with  hardy,  herbace- 
ous plants,  its  treatment  is  so  different  from  those 
noticed  that  I  will  briefly  call  attention  to  some  of 
its  peculiarities.  It  will  not  do  well  in  a  crowded 
border,  where  other  plants  thrive  luxuriantly,  but 
must  have  an  open,  airy  situation,  a  good,  strong 
soil,  and  an  abundance  of  plant  food.  It  should 
never  be  disturbed  as  long  as  it  produces  its  flowers 


ORNAMENTALS  265 

freely,  which  it  will  do  if  left  entirely  alone. 
Division  of  its  tubers,  the  only  means  of  propaga- 
tion, is  an  injury  rather  than  an  aid  to  its  flower- 
ing. I  have  known  clumps  that  have  not  been  dis- 
turbed for  40  years  to  produce  their  flowers  in 
abundance  annually,  and  have  seen  old  clumps, 
divided  with  care,  and  seemingly  under  the  most 
favorable  conditions,  to  stand  still  for  a  number  of 
years  without  producing  a  flower.  Propagation,  or 
division,  should  be  done  in  October  when  the  plants 
are  at  rest  and  the  roots,  or  tubers  kept  out  of  the 
ground  as  short  a  time  as  possible.  Usually  the 
plants  will  produce  a  few  flowers  the  second  season. 
If  so,  success  is  assured,  and  an  annual  display  of 
flowers  certain." 

PLANTS  FOR  HANGING  BASKETS 

"  Two  of  the  most  important  classes  of  flowers," 
writes  Laura  Jones  of  Kentucky,  "  are  pot  shrubs 
and  hanging  basket  plants,  because  they  are  use- 
ful, decorative,  and  are  all-the-year-round  plants. 
With  proper  care  theyare  always  permanent  with  us. 
Some  of  the  pot  shrubs  can  be  kept  from  six  to  eight 
years,  if  properly  pruned  to  keep  in  low  shrubby 
shape.  If  allowed  to  grow  tall  and  straggling,  there 
is  little  room  for  them  in  either  window,  or  garden, 
or  veranda.  Only  when  they  are  kept  in  shrubby 
shape  do  they  bloom  well,  as  the  long,  straight 
branches  do  not  produce  flowers. 

"  The  best  flowering  shrubs  that  will  flower  in 
the  window  and  in  the  late  winter  and  early  spring 
are  the  Azalea  indica,  or  the  Chinese  azalea,  which 
blooms  about  Easter.  This  is  a  beautiful  flowering 
plant.  It  comes  in  colors  of  pink,  crimson,  white, 
rose  color  and  the  variegated  pink  and  white. 


266  MAKING  HORTICULTURE  PAY 

"  The  abutilon  blooms  well,  both  in  the  house  and 
on  the  veranda,  and,  if  properly  pruned,  produces 
50  flowers.  All  flowers  of  the  shrubs  are  produced 
on  the  tips  of  the  new  branches,  and  new  branches 
must  be  forming  for  flowers.  The  only  rule  I 
know  as  to  pruning  is  to  cut  back  each  individual 
branch  when  it  is  becoming  too  long  and  un- 
shapely. The  foliage  of  the  variegated  abutilon  is 
very  attractive,  even  when  not  in  bloom ;  the  green 
and  white  sorts  are  also  very  beautiful.  Dwarf 
varieties  are  preferable  to  the  tall  sorts. 

"  Hibiscus  blooms  well  in  the  window  if  given 
warmth  and  sunlight.  It  produces  very  gaudy 
flowers,  but  is  not  so  large  in  winter  as  on  the 
veranda  in  summer.  It  blooms  well  in  the  win- 
dow. In  time  it  grows  into  a  large  shrub,  so  after 
I  have  given  it  a  big  tub  placed  on  casters,  it 
can  be  rolled  from  place  to  place.  This  is  a  good 
idea  for  all  large  shrubs,  as  they  can  be  conven- 
iently moved  without  waiting  for  man's  convenience. 

"  One  of  the  most  fragrant  and  beautiful  plants 
for  late  winter  or  spring  blooming  is  the  bouvardia. 
Though  an  old  shrub,  it  is  very  little  known,  but 
when  once  grown,  one  is  not  willing  to  be  without 
it  again.  The  long  tubular  flowers  of  Bouvardia  Hum- 
boldtii  are  pure  white,  single,  and  very  fragrant  and 
beautiful.  There  are  both  double  and  single  varie- 
ties, and  in  colors  of  pink  and  rose.  The  double 
sorts  are  short  and  not  nearly  so  pretty  as  the  waxy, 
tubular  flowers  of  the  single  sorts.  This  shrub  re- 
quires a  rest  during  a  part  of  the  year.  If  to  flower 
during  the  summer,  withhold  water  during  the  win- 
ter, and  if  during  the  late  winter  and  spring,  with- 
hold water  during  the  summer. 

"  No  window  garden  is  complete  without  one  or 
two  hanging  baskets,  and  the  veranda  has  an  un- 


ORNAMENTALS  267 

finished  appearance  in  summer  without  one  or  two 
of  these.  The  Asparagus  sprengerii  is  one  of  the 
most  useful  of  greens,  either  for  hanging  baskets 
or  pots,  but  no  hanging  basket  plant  will  succeed 
without  plenty  of  moisture,  and  this  least  of  all. 
One  of  the  most  beautiful  specimen  plants  of  this 
I  have  ever  seen,  3  feet  in  length,  and  with  the 
very  strongest  of  fronds,  was  grown  in  water.  The 
basket  was  placed  in  a  large  crock,  strong  wire  was 
placed  around  the  crock,  and  this  suspended  from 
the  ceiling.  The  crock  was  kept  constantly  filled 
with  water,  and  this  gradually  soaked  up  into  the 
basket.  Tin  or  porous  receptacles  are  best,  and 
the  water  should  be  allowed  to  soak  up  through  the 
draining  holes.  The  wire  hanging  baskets,  with 
the  moss,  dry  out  so  quickly  that  hardly  anything 
will  be  a  success  in  them." 

PANSIES  IN  WINTER 

"  Let  me  tell  you,"  says  C.  L.  Meller  of  Wiscon- 
sin, **  how  I  have  obtained  rather  inexpensive, 
though  very  pretty  floral  decoraiions  from  the 
pansy,  and  that  without  going  to  a  florist.  You 
can  have  pansies  any  winter  month  in  bloom  if  you 
will  follow  directions,  and  if  you  have  a  pansy  bed, 
or  can  get  a  few  plants  from  one. 

"  Remove  the  winter  covering  from  the  bed  and 
dig  up  a  few  plants,  roots  and  all,  nor  hesitate  even 
though  the  ground  is  frozen  solid.  Then  take  the 
plants  into  the  coolest  part  of  the  cellar  or  base- 
ment, there  to  thaw  the  ground  out  thoroughly, 
but  not  too  rapidly.  Leave  the  plants  there  for  a 
week  at  least,  taking  care,  however,  that  the  ground 
does  not  become  too  dry  and  hard.  When  the  soil 
around   the   roots   has  warmed   somewhat,   and   is 


268  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

just  dry  enough  so  it  can  be  worked  easily,  place 
each  plant  in  a  5  or  6-inch  flower-pot.  Do  not 
pack,  but  firm  the  soil  well  around  the  roots.  Then 
saturate  each  pot  with  lukewarm  water.  If  you 
have  not  dug  up  enough  dirt  with  the  plants  to  fill 
each  pot,  get  a  few  shovelfuls  from  the  richest  field 
on  the  place  and  mix  about  one-fourth  sand  with  it. 
Warm  it  like  the  other  soil.  This  ought  to  make 
excellent  potting  soil. 

"  After  the  plants  have  been  watered  allow  the 
surplus  water  to  drain  off  and  place  them  in  a 
warmer  but  not  a  much  lighter  place  for  a  few  days 
more.  After  this,  place  them  in  the  warmest,  sun- 
niest window  in  the  house.  In  about  three  weeks 
from  the  time  they  are  placed  in  the  window  they 
ought  to  be  nicely  in  bloom.  As  soon  as  a  blossom 
shows  signs  of  wilting,  cut  it  off  to  give  the  buds  a 
better  chance.  There  is  one  drawback  to  the  pansy 
used  in  this  manner;  plant  lice  are  very  apt  to 
attack  it,  but  seldom  until  at  least  two  crops  of 
flowers  have  been  produced.  When  the  lice  do 
make  their  appearance,  the  best  remedy  is  to  throw 
away  the  pansies,  when  the  lice  will  likewise  dis- 
appear and  will  not  bother  your  other  pansies. 

STRAWBERRIES   FOR   DECORATION 

"  Flowers  may  be  secured  from  strawberries  in  a 
somewhat  similar  manner.  They  should  not  be 
dug  up,  however,  until  after  the  ground  has  been 
frozen  for  at  least  two  weeks.  There  is  not  as 
much  need  with  them  to  thaw  out  the  ground 
gradually,  and  they  may  be  placed  directly  in  the 
sunlight.  The  strawberry  plants  will  not  bloom  as 
soon  as  the  pansies,  but  flowers  you  are  sure  to  get. 
You  may  place  one  plant  in  a  6-inch  pot  or  three 


ORNAMENTALS  269 

plants  may  be  crowded  into  an  8-inch  pot.  You 
will  find  that  they  make  a  rather  pretty  centerpiece 
for  the  table,  with  the  vines  almost  completely 
hiding  the  pot  and  the  white  flowers  standing  out 
against  the  green  background. 

"  Should  you  desire  to  bring  one  of  these  plants 
into  bearing,  you  can  do  so  only  with  diligence  and 
care.  In  the  first  place,  you  must  be  sure  to  select 
plants  having  perfect  flowers,  such  as  the  Senator 
Dunlap.  Then  when  the  plant  is  in  first  blossom 
it  will  be  best  to  cross-fertilize.  This  is  accom- 
plished best  by  means  of  a  fine-haired  brush,  pref- 
erably one  of  camel's  hair.  This  is  brushed  over 
all  the  flowers  in  succession  so  that  the  pollen  may 
thus  be  transferred  from  one  flower  to  another. 

"  It  will  help  toward  success  with  the  strawberry 
plants  if  you  feed  them  occasionally,  say,  every  15 
days,  with  a  weak  solution  of  nitrate  of  soda,  the 
material  for  which  may  be  bought  for  5  cents  at  any 
drug  store,  and  every  week  with  liquid  cow  manure." 

WINTER  CARE  OF  OUTDOOR  PLANTS 

"  Generally  a  few  thrifty  geranium  slips  have 
been  started  early  in  the  fall  to  produce  flowers 
during  the  winter,"  writes  Cora  B.  Williams,  "  so 
there  remains  the  work  of  preserving  the  old  plants 
which  have  spent  their  vitality  in  almost  perpetual 
bloom  throughout  the  summer.  Repotted  for  the 
sitting-room  windows  these  old  plants  are  unsatis- 
factory for  the  very  good  reason  that  they  have 
become  exhausted  and,  therefore,  require  a  season 
of  rest.  But  after  a  long  rest  during  the  winter, 
they  will  be  just  what  is  needed  to  set  out  in  the 
ground  in  the  spring. 

"  The  brilliant  and  free  blooming  scarlet  salvia, 


270  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

also  called  Salvia  splendens  and  scarlet  sage,  so 
popular  both  in  town  and  country,  can  be  placed 
in  boxes  of  soil,  set  away  in  a  warm  cellar  and  kept 
until  spring  to  use  for  flower  beds  and  borders.  If 
potted  early  and  well  started  in  its  new  quarters 
before  winter  sets  in,  the  salvia  makes  a  beautiful 
winter  bloomer.  Like  the  petunia,  it  requires 
plenty  of  moisture  to  be  kept  in  bloom. 

"  All  plants  which  are  to  be  placed  in  boxes  of 
soil  for  the  winter  should  be  carefully  taken  up, 
allowing  a  good  portion  of  soil  to  adhere  to  their 
roots,  and  placed  in  the  soil  provided  for  them, 
then  set  away  in  a  warm  cellar  where  they  will  not 
freeze,  and  where  a  little  light  from  the  windows 
can  fall  upon  them.  They  should  not  be  put  in 
a  damp  place,  but  in  as  dry  a  place  as  possible. 
Too  much  dampness  will  cause  the  plants  to  decay. 
When  the  soil  in  the  box  becomes  very  dry  the 
plants  will  need  a  slight  watering,  which  is  all  the 
attention  they  require.  There  are  more  plants 
killed  by  dampness  than  by  dryness  in  the  cellar. 

"  A  much  easier  method,  but  not  always  reliable, 
is  to  take  them  up  without  breaking  them,  shake 
the  soil  from  the  roots,  hang  them  in  the  warm 
shade  for  a  day  or  two  until  they  become  dry,  then 
transfer  to  the  cellar,  where  they  should  be  sus- 
pended from  the  ceiling  by  means  of  twine.  They 
should  be  placed  in  a  medium  light  and  dry  place 
where  they  may  remain  until  spring,  when  they 
should  be  set  out  early  in  the  ground,  where  they 
will  soon  make  flourishing  plants.  Small  slips  will 
not  keep  in  this  way.  Of  course,  it  is  essential  that 
these  geraniums  be  kept  in  a  cellar  where  they 
will  not  freeze. 

"  The  bulbs  of  tender  annuals  are  easily  cared 
for.     They  must  not  be  allowed  to  freeze,  and  must 


ORNAMENTALS  2^1 

be  entirely  dry  before  being  put  away.  Caladium 
bulbs  should  be  preserved  in  dry  sand  in  the  cellar. 
Bulbs  should  be  dug  without  injuring  them,  allowed 
to  remain  where  the  warm  wind  will  blow  over 
them  long  enough  to  dry  them  thoroughly,  then 
tied  up  in  paper  sacks  and  hung  in  the  cellar,  or  in 
a  closet  where  they  will  not  freeze. 

"  With  a  little  work  during  fall  the  flowers  can 
be  safely  stored  away,  and  with  the  coming  of 
spring,  will  be  ready  to  reward  the  labor  expended 
upon  them  hy  giving  a  profusion  of  flowers." 

FAVORITE  HOUSE  PLANTS 

"  Nearly  everybody  keeps  house  plants,  more  or 
less,"  writes  Mrs.  E.  B.  Murray  of  Saranac  county. 
New  York,  "  but  how  few  have  flowers  all  the  time 
or  even  more  than  now  and  then,  and  yet  it  is  a 
comparatively  easy  thing  if  one  only  knows  how. 
As  to  quantity  and  selection  it  is  a  matter  of  taste 
and  room.  I  used  to  grow  over  a  hundred  plants 
every  winter,  and  fill  every  window  full.  Of 
course,  I  enjoyed  it,  but  no  one  else  did.  My  hus- 
band used  to  protest  vainly  that  the  house  was  like 
a  swamp,  not  a  window  to  sit  by  or  look  out  of, 
and  I  see  now  that  I  was  very  wrong;  what  should 
have  given  pleasure  was  just  the  reverse.  Now,  I 
save  one  good  window,  and  do  not  crowd  the  others. 

*'  There  are,  of  course,  all  kinds  of  windows. 
Mine  are  warm  and  sunny — too  warm.  I  find  there 
is  nothing,  nor  do  I  believe  there  ever  will  be,  bet- 
ter than  the  dear  old  geranium.  Just  look  at  the 
varieties  to  choose  from !  It  will  grow  wi^h 
neglect  and  under  very  unfavorable  circumstances, 
but  give  it  what  it  needs,  sun,  warmth,  enough 
water,  and  small  pots,  and  see  what  it  will  do!     I 


272  MAKING   HORTICULTURE  PAY 

prefer  small  plants,  started  in  early  summer,  grown 
in  little  tin  cans,  for  pots  in  my  windows  dry  out 
so  I  can  do  nothing.  I  like  small  plants,  because  I 
can  have  so  much  greater  range  of  kinds  and  color. 
I  have  nearly  40  now,  all  different,  one  or  two  sweet 
scented,  three  or  four  ivy  or  ornamental  leaved. 
Did  you  ever  try  any  new  ones?  Just  send  next 
summer  to  some  reliable  seedsmen  and  florists  for 
a  dozen,  and  see  how  you  enjoy  them,  also  what  a 
revelation  they  will  be  to  you. 

"  Abutilon  is  another  fine  plant  for  warm,  sunny 
windows.  I  have  known  plants  to  bloom  for  nine 
months,  and  scarcely  a  day  in  that  time  without 
one  or  more  of  their  showy,  bell-shaped  flowers.  I 
prefer  the  yellow,  but  the  pink  is  beautiful.  Of 
these  I  have  three.  Cyclamen  is  another  good 
plant,  if  managed  right,  but  do  not  let  it  lie  down 
in  summer,  or  it  is  almost  impossible  to  start  again. 
Cinerarias  are  beautiful,  grown  from  seed  in  the 
early  summer,  and  kept  growing  vigorously  all  the 
time.  Magnificent  is  the  only  word  to  call  them 
when  in  bloom.  Their  time  of  blooming  comes 
toward  spring,  and  if  kept  out  of  the  hot  sun,  they 
last  for  weeks.  The  richest  blues  and  purples  I 
have  ever  seen  are  among  their  colors.  Certainly 
one  or  two  pelargoniums  also  should  have  a  place. 
They  can  be  kept  upstairs  if  warm  enough  until 
after  the  holidays.  Then  bring  them  into  sunlight 
and  warmth.  When  in  full  bloom  they  more  than 
repay  all  care  spent  on  them,  and  some  of  the  newer 
varieties  are  simply  gorgeous. 

"  Dutch  bulbs  deserve  a  chapter  or  a  book  to 
themselves.  Those  who  have  grown  them  need  no 
urging  or  instructions.  But  for  those  who  never 
have  made  their  acquaintance  there  is  in  store  a 
perfect  revelation  of  their  beauty,  if  given  a  triaL 


ORNAMENTALS  273 

If  I  could  grow  only  one  flower  In  winter,  it  wouFd 
be  a  bulb,  and  if  only  one  bulb,  it  would  be  a 
hyacinth.  My  bulb  closet  gladdens  my  whole 
heart  every  time  I  look  at  or  think  of  it.  I  have 
50  hyacinths,  double  and  single  red,  white,  and 
blue,  12  parrot  tulips,  12  Roman  and  Paper  White 
narcissus,  12  Mammoth  Yellow  crocus.  Given  a 
good  bulb  and  right  conditions,  it  is  sure  to  bloom, 
but  it  must  not  have  fresh  manure  in  the  soil,  nor 
be  too  wet  at  the  start  or  it  will  rot.  It  requires 
six  to  eight  weeks  in  utter  darkness  to  make  the 
necessary  roots.  But  some  thrifty  woman  says, 
bulbs  cost  so.  No,  not  so  much,  when  you  can 
get  mixed  ones  by  the  dozen  for  50  or  60  cents,  and 
even  cheaper,  by  express.  This  means  hyacinths, 
as  others  cost  less." 

BULBS  FOR  THE  HOUSE 

"  Upon  the  care  we  give  our  plants  and  bulbs 
during  the  fall  depends  in  a  great  measure  the  joy 
we  will  get  from  them  in  the  year  to  come,"  writes 
H.  Hunt.  "  Neglected  then,  they  will  be  so  weak- 
ened by  the  long,  cold  winter  that  a  whole  season 
will  be  required  in  which  to  recuperate,  or  we  must 
mourn  the  loss  of  them  entirely. 

"  Bulbs  and  plants  that  are  to  go  into  the  house 
or  cellar  should  not  be  left  out  too  long,  as  there 
is  danger  that  the  frost  will  penetrate  to  the  roots 
enough  to  destroy  their  vitality.  Plants  to  be 
potted  should  be  lifted  early  and  left  out  of  doors 
in  the  pots  until  thoroughly  established  therein. 
The  foliage  should  be  sprinkled  daily,  and  gradu- 
ally accustomed  to  the  temperature  of  the  room  in 
which  they  are  to  remain.  A  judicious  thinning  of 
foliage  is  desirable,  as  no  plant  can  carry  as  dense 


274  MAKING   HORTICULTURE   PAY 

a  growth  of  leafage  indoors  as  It  will  carry  out- 
doors. Dahlias,  cannas,  and  the  like  should  be 
marked  before  the  foliage  freezes.  A  strip  of  zinc, 
with  the  name  written  in  pencil,  is  a  good  way. 
After  the  foliage  is  killed  by  the  frost,  the  tubers 
will  ripen  if  they  are  left  in  the  ground  for  a  time, 
but  they  should  not  be  left  in  after  there  is  danger 
of  the  soil  about  the  stalks  freezing.  Such  bulbs 
should  be  lifted  on  a  warm,  sunny  day,  and  left  to 
dry  out  thoroughly  before  being  stored  away.  If 
the  storehouse  is  very  dry  it  is  well  to  pack  them 
in  dry  sand,  but  I  have  had  the  best  success  by 
storing  them  in  the  vegetable  cellar.  Placed  in  a 
bin,  like  potatoes,  they  will  keep  perfectly  where 
potatoes  will  keep,  and  begin  to  sprout  in  the  spring 
at  about  the  same  time  that  potatoes  begin  to 
sprout. 

"  Bulbs  that  live  over  winter  need  care  also.  If 
they  have  been  growing  for  years,  undisturbed,  they 
often  become  matted  together  in  large  clumps  and, 
therefore,  throw  up  but  few  flower  stalks.  When 
this  is  the  case  they  should  be  lifted  in  the  fall, 
divided,  and  reset  if  possible  in  a  new  place.  Those 
newly  set,  or  long  set,  should  be  covered  with  a 
thick  mulch  of  well-rotted  manure  to  protect  from 
the  cold  and  to  furnish  fertilizer  for  the  coming 
spring.  Over  this  may  be  placed  a  protection  of 
straw  or  evergreen  boughs,  or  leaves,  if  needed. 
Where  snow  falls  early  and  remains  all  winter, 
it  affords  a  good  covering  for  such  bulbs.  It  is 
the  alternate  freezing  and  thawing  that  kills,  not 
the  steady  cold." 


Index 


Page 

Advertising   Fruit    46 

Annuals    253 

Apple    47 

Apple  Marketing 53 

Apple   Packages    52 

Apples,    Dwarf    57 

Apple  Storage 56 

Apple  Tree   Renovation 50 

Apple  Varieties 49 

Apricot     60 

Artichoke,  Jerusalem 150 

Asparagus, 151 

Balm 201 

Basil,  Sweet 201 

Baskets,  Hanging 265 

Beans   153 

Beds,  Flower 248 

Beets 157 

Blackberry 90 

Borders,  Flower 249 

Budding 30 

Bulbs    273 

Brussels  Sprouts 158 

Cabbage   160 

Cabbage  Storing 103 

Cantaloupe  Packing 172 

Cantaloupes 166 

Cantaloupes  with  Strawberries.  .  169 

Carr.  's 175 

Caulillower 176 

Celery 179 

Celery  Storing 185 

Cellar  Storage 56 

Cherry    60 

Cherry,  Ground 200 

Chestnut 65 

Chives 187 

Collard 187 

Com  after  Strawberries 190 

Com,   Pop    192 

Com  Salad 193 

Com,  Sweet 187 

Cover  Crops 36 

Cress 193 

Cress,  Water 238 

Cucumber 193 

Cultivation,  Function  of 22 

Currant 91 

Customers,  Retaining 132 

Cuttings 26 

Dewberry 94 

Drainage    17 

Eggplant 198 

Endive    199 

Fertilizer  Formulas 10,  11 

Fertilizers 137 

Fertilizing    7 


Page 

Fruit  Advertising 46 

Fruit  in  Cellars 56 

Fruit,    Storing    45 

Garden,  Midsummer 139 

Garlic    200 

Gooseberry 9  5 

Grading,  Importance  of 129 

Grafting 28 

Grape    99 

Grape  Juice 103 

Greenhouses 257 

Ground  Cherry 200 

Gumbo 209 

Herbs   201 

Horse- Radish    202 

Hotbeds 142 

House    Plants    269.270 

Humus 15 

Kale    203 

Kohl-Rabi    203 

Lavering 25 

Leek    203 

Lettuce 204 

Limas 155 

Lime 13 

Manure,  Stable 7 

Marjoram,  Sweet    201 

Marketing  Apples S3 

Mint    201 

Moisture  in  Soil 17 

Mulching    38 

Mustard    209 

Nectarine 64 

Nursery  Stock,  Care  of 40 

Nursery  Stock  Selection 30 

Nuts 64 

Okra 209 

Onion    209 

Onion,  Gibraltar 212 

Onion,  Potato 214 

Onion  Sets 214 

Orchard  Planting 40 

Oyster,  Vegetable 230 

Packages  for  Apples 52 

Parsley 217 

Parsnip 218 

Peach   70 

Pear    75 

Peas    219 

Pepper    219 

Perennials,  Favorite 259 

Perennials,  Hardy 250 

Planting 34 

Planting,  Orchard 40 

Plants  for  Houses    269,  270 

Plants,  Selection  of 30 

Plum 79 


276 


2.^6 


INDEX 


Page 

Presses,  Barrel   55 

Propagation 25 

Pruning 34,   43 

Quince    84 

Radish    225 

Radish,  Horse 202 

Raspberries    88,  105 

Renovating  Pears 76 

Renovation  of  Old  Trees 50 

Rhubarb 226 

Sage    201 

Salad,  Com 193 

Salsify 230 

Savory,  Summer 201 

Savory.  Winter 202 

Soils,  Management  of 5 

Spearmint    201 

Spinach    230 

Spraying 239 


Page 

Squash   231 

Storage,  Vegetable 148 

Storing,  Fruit 45 

Strawberries  with  Cantaloupes.  .  169 

Strawberry Ill 

Thyme    202 

Tillage,  Function  of 22 

Tomato 230 

Trees  for  Farmstead 254 

Trees,  Low  Headed ZZ 

Trees,  Selection  of 30 

Turnip    237 

Vines 255 

Walnut,  English 67 

Watercress 238 

Watermelons 166 

Watermelons  for  Business 173 

Weeds,  Circumventing 147 


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